Woferlow Basset Hounds

Woferlow Basset Hounds Promoting good breeding and healthy bassets fit for purpose.

10/08/2024

I still have two puppies available if anyone is interested. Only serious people, had enough of the “ oh yes we want one can we come and see? Only for them not to turn up and waste my day. One male and one female they are now 7 months old, house trained, fully vaccinated, KC reg. pm for further details.

30/01/2024

New kids on the block.

08/12/2023

Storm snoozing.

03/12/2023

We are expecting babies in the New Year 2024
Ch Woferlow Voyager at Harvidene x Bessalin Storm Maiden.

George still thinks he can get his fat bum in the dachshunds chair.  Eventually he did manage to curl up and go to sleep...
04/09/2023

George still thinks he can get his fat bum in the dachshunds chair. Eventually he did manage to curl up and go to sleep. Big good.

01/08/2023

Food for thought...

Mrs. Florence Nagle
On Breeding, Exercising, And Handling (1971)

Florence Nagle, 1894 - 1988, was one of those remarkable dog people. She bred superb Irish Wolfhounds, judged all the hound breeds including Afghan hounds, she challenged the English Jockey Club and beat them, forcing them to allow female trainers, she challenged the English Kennel Club and forced them to allow female members. She has written on breeding, exercising, handling etc. She bred IW's for 65 years at her Sulhamstead kennels. Below is a transcript of her comments at a IW breed seminar from 1971.

The following notes were transcribed from A 1971 tape recordings with Florence Nagle (Sulhamstead IW's, UK) during a breed seminar. Mrs Nagle had bred Irish Wolfhounds since 1913 and judged all the hounds breeds including Afghan Hounds many times..

I try to breed a dog that could still do the job he was meant to do. Quality, not quantity. I've only bred in all of my life from about eight or nine or ten bi***es and never more than three times to the same bitch.

I only have about fourteen dogs; I never have more, and I keep my old ones. But you mustn't be sentimental about it. The thing is to look at your puppies and see if you've got one that's special. Keep that one, and then let the others go at fourteen weeks of age or so.

I've had to start over three times - we couldn't feed dogs during the wars - and I've always started from the back end, the rear end is more important than the front end, of course -- its the engine. A dog can propel himself with good hindquarters and a bad front but he can't drag himself along with bad hind legs.

Every dog probably has three faults. But some faults are much more important than others. A bad conformation is a shocking fault. The dog is going to pass that on to its puppies. An ear held a bit wrong, or a tooth out, is not a shocking fault. Other important things, the jawbone is more important than one or two broken teeth. Coat isn't the most important thing either.

You must breed for temperament, and don't let anyone tell you that inbreeding causes bad temperament. If you inbreed to good temperament, you'll have even better temperament, but if you breed to bad temperament, you'll have a dog that you can do absolutely nothing with. Should you have a dog with bad temperaments, you have no business selling it.

My bi***es are very closely line bred, in**ed, if you like. But you see, I have one advantage over you all. I'm very old and I know the ancestors all back. Apart from their pedigree, I know their faces and conformation and I've always in**ed heavily.

People should not inbreed if they don't know everything way back. It's not a job for anybody that doesn't know what he's doing because you can stamp in as much as you can stamp out.

If you are a good breeder - a breeder who really means something to the breed - you don't produce a whole lot of duds. I've told this story often before; somebody said to me "Poor Mrs Nagle - how dull it is for her - all her puppies are exactly the same. She must be so bored with them." Well, that's what I've spent fifty years trying to get.

I bred so few bi***es because I believe in breeding only from the very best. You want your bitch right all the way back and I think you get a lot of your conformation from her. I think she's 80% of your puppies. A great stud dog can uplift but you don't get a great stud dog very often, but you can see that your bi***es are all right. It's not right to say "Oh that bitch, she's not very good but she'll do to breed from."

Some of the stock that is being bred today is from animals that shouldn't have been bred from at all. When you have mass breeding, that is what occurs. The best breeders are the ones who only breed from the very best, and it pays in good quality.

Believe me, you are not going to make money breeding good dogs. In fact, they're rather an expensive luxury. You can't mass produce quality. You're lucky to get a very good dog one or twice in your lifetime, even if you're being very careful. If you have more puppies than you can handle properly, they will get faults - not faults that they inherited necessarily - but faults from lack of attention. Even if they started good, they'd end up bad. You can't have quantity and quality.

Exercise - you've got to use your common sense and not tire puppies. Exercise must be free. You must never drag them or a dog of any age behind a car or bicycle. There's nothing worse.

Slow walking develops muscle, but there's nothing that develops muscle like a gallop. I take puppies out to a nearby field and let them run around. At about four months they begin to be interested in things and they go right around the field. As they get older, you see their gallop improving.

It's so important to do this when your dogs are young because you'll never have them as well muscled if you try to do it later. Take them out and let them go with another and gallop round once or twice - that's enough. Then you develop hindquarters and the second thigh.

Do you know what the second thigh is? It's between the knee and hock, If you muscle that up, you won't have cow-hocked dogs. Otherwise there's no muscle to keep the hocks straight when the dog is growing up.

You also want muscle on the shoulder. Don't get the silly idea that this is a loaded shoulder. If the shoulder is properly laid back it can't be a loaded shoulder.

Handling - a good dog, well made, rarely stands badly. Just let it stand and it will place itself beautifully.

No hackney action please. You never want hackney action in a galloping dog. The show crowd thinks it's lovely to see a dog prance along. It isn't, it's all wrong.In England we always make the dog walk as well as trot in the show ring. If he can walk well slowly it means his hocks are all beautiful as they should be.

If you have a first class dog, you still want presence. What is this? It's the dog that comes into the ring, holds his own head up, and then moves off, not strung up with a ewe neck.

Take your dog into the ring, let it stand on its own, and run on its own, and then you've that valuable quality called presence, which will always carry you. If you have conformation as well. It will take you right to the top.

Florence Nagle, 1971
From Afghan Hound Times

31/07/2023

George fast asleep 💤snoring very loudly. got me pinned down couldn’t move if I tried. 🐾🐾❤️

13/07/2023

Taken from a friends page.

LET’S TALK TOOLS

Red Arrow: Harness that fits around the dog’s body and when connected to a clip leash, creates a pulling reaction from the dog. This pulling reaction triggers the shoulders and chest muscles to be used which then influences the dog to use strength to get where they need to. If you have properly trained your dog to walk right next to you on a harness, you will not experience the pulling. Congratulations, I have yet to see this. 😂

Orange Arrow: Flat collar, usually used to connect a clip leash to and often times sits on the bottom of the neck due to gravity and the dog’s head being higher than the shoulders. This then triggers the dog’s shoulder muscles and the pulling starts. Again, this teaches the dog that strength needs to be used to get where they need to. If you have properly trained your dog to walk next to you on a flat collar, you will not experience the pulling. The majority of dogs I see are pulling during this setup.

Blue Arrow: Slip Leash is very high on the neck where it is placed behind the ears, behind the jaw bone, and it allows us to influence the dog’s head and brain. Shoulders and chest muscles are not triggered and physical strength is not used during the walk. When used correctly, little to no pressure is on the leash and physical strength is used by the dog to get from point A to point B. If you have properly trained your dog to walk next to you on a slip leash, you will not experience any pulling.

Out of the 3 tools shown, the slip leash is one of the most productive tools to create a structured walk, a calm mind, and a solid relationship.

Ever watch anyone walk a horse by the saddle?

Yeah, me either.

That’s because when you walk a 1000lb animal, you need to influence the brain and not the body.

Let’s start influencing our dog’s mentally and not physically.

George being a goof.
14/05/2023

George being a goof.

06/05/2023

George asking to come in. Such a clever boy. 🐾🐾❤️🐾🐾

Fabulous day at CRUFTS under breed specialist Sandra Johnston (Burnvale) Ch Woferlow Voyager at Harvidene went Best of B...
13/03/2023

Fabulous day at CRUFTS under breed specialist Sandra Johnston (Burnvale)
Ch Woferlow Voyager at Harvidene went Best of Breed and represented Woferlow Kennel in the Hound Group.
Ch Woferlow Kanye West aka Monty won the veteran dog class
Woferlow One in a Million aka George won puppy dog class.
Woferlow Victor Szars aka Victor won post graduate class.
Ch Kylo Ren was short listed in Open Dog class.

04/02/2023
Please take the time to read this article; most won't be aware of this info:Travelling safely with your dog in the carHo...
04/02/2023

Please take the time to read this article; most won't be aware of this info:
Travelling safely with your dog in the car
How do you travel with your dog? According to research, more than a quarter of owners fail to adequately secure their pets before setting off on a car journey.
22% of vets questioned revealed that travelling without proper restraint was the main cause of injury or death to dogs inside cars involved in a crash. They also recalled some shocking restraints being used, including chains around the neck.
Driving with dogs requires careful planning. So, if you’re unsure of the best ways to keep them safe when travelling, here’s a guide to cover the basics...
The law and driving with dogs in cars; If you’re not familiar with Rule 57 of the Highway Code, now’s the time to brush up. It states that drivers are responsible for making sure dogs (or other animals) are suitably restrained in a vehicle so they can’t distract or injure you - or themselves - during an emergency stop.
There’s a good reason for this. A 32kg dog, such as a Labrador, will be thrown forward in a 30mph crash with such sheer force that it would weigh the equivalent of 100kg – a phenomenon safety experts call ‘canine cannonball’. What’s a suitable restraint for dogs in cars?
Unfortunately, vets have witnessed a number of dangerous restraints being used by some owners, including passengers simply holding the animal on their lap, putting them in a cardboard box and even putting a chain or rope around its neck. And vets agree with the Highway Code, which states a seat belt harness, pet carrier, dog cage or dog guard are the appropriate ways of restraining animals in cars.
Often, dog owners will allow smaller pups to travel in the cabin area of their car. In this case, it’s essential to use a harness. These fit around the dog’s chest and then attach to a seatbelt.
This prevents dogs wandering around dangerously and it keeps them secure under heavy braking or in a crash. Prices for reputable brands start from less than £10.
Certain cars, such as estates and SUVs (4x4s) may have built-in luggage guards. However, these aren’t always robust enough to contain an animal in the event of an accident. The vehicle manufacturer or any number of aftermarket specialists will be able to supply steel animal guards, which divide the boot area from the cabin. Prices start from about £30 for universal products. Another option is to make your pets comfortable in a cage. These come in a wide range of sizes, fold away when not in use, and cost from £10.

George having his evening nap.  He doesn’t care that he’s crushing Dolly and Doobie Do.
28/01/2023

George having his evening nap. He doesn’t care that he’s crushing Dolly and Doobie Do.

28/01/2023

Riva and Rodney like playing with a box

💙 Axel 💙I’m officially back in the salon and this morning I’ve had the pleasure of meeting 15 week old Basset Hound, Axe...
28/01/2023

💙 Axel 💙

I’m officially back in the salon and this morning I’ve had the pleasure of meeting 15 week old Basset Hound, Axel. Just look at those puppy dog eyes!! 😍 This gorgeous little pup did sooo well for his first puppy groom - and we made sure to allow extra time for playtime and cuddles afterwards to ensure his first experience in the salon is as positive as possible. See you again soon Axel! 🥰🐾

03/01/2023

Copied from another breeder..

POTENTIAL OWNER: How much is the puppy?
BREEDER: $2500 AUD
POTENTIAL OWNER: What?? It's way too expensive!!
BREEDER: What do you think would be a good price?
POTENTIAL OWNER: No more than $500. You breeders are so over priced.
BREEDER: I am sorry you see it this way, why don't you try it yourself?
POTENTIAL OWNER: But I've never done it!
BREEDER: For FREE I can teach you how to do it, and in addition you will have the knowledge to do it again.
POTENTIAL OWNER: Perfect, thank you!
BREEDER: To start you will need a female(average minimal cost $2500 and up). Also a male(average minimal cost $2500 and up) or semen (average $1000 and up), then progesterone testing ($95 each time) until the girl is ovulating, then have semen implanted by TCI ($500-800).
You will need to show them to their championship to show they meet the breed standard and worth breeding from (Minimal $2000 each with travel & fees). You will need to do genetic & health testing on them, averages about $750 per dog. Raise and provide daily care, feeding & grooming for 2 years. (So minimal $150 per month)

POTENTIAL OWNER: But I don't have that much money...

BREEDER: well, For $500 you can raise a litter for me and then keep one of the puppies. Obviously, you also have to pay the cost of whelping & care.
POTENTIAL OWNER: I can do that.
BREEDER: OK so I have a female due to whelp in 2 weeks. You will need to be available 24/7 around the clock for at least 8 weeks to help with delivery and care. Possibly tube or bottle feed puppies every 2-3 hours if the mom is low on milk the first couple weeks.
POTENTIAL OWNER: Eight weeks?? it's way too much time for me! I have to work.

BREEDER: You will also need the reproductive vet to do xrays($200-$500), possibly progesterone testing($75-$250) & a C-section($2000-$5000) and initial vet care on pups until old enough to be placed. Pups vets exams and two sets of vaccines ($250 and up depending on how many puppies are in the litter)
Have on hand a scale, thermometer, latex gloves, sanitizer, absorbent tissues, scissors, hemostats, heating pad, whelping box, blankets, cleaning supplies, appropriate food with supplements for mothers, formula, medications & hand feeding supplies in case of emergency....

POTENTIAL OWNER: But I don't have all these things!
BREEDER: For $1000 you can buy them.

POTENTIAL OWNER: Ummm .... You know, I think it might be better if I just buy a puppy.
BREEDER: Wise decision.

For us ethical, purebred breeders there are no vacations or holidays, while you go to visit with family & friends we are home at our dogs side caring for them. It is a no breaks commitment.
THIS IS THE REALITY
When you choose a professional, you don't only pay for the puppy but also:
Tools, knowledge, experience, love, time, sacrifices, etc...

19/12/2022

Riva and Rodders.

Made these and they turned out well.  Going to wrap them for all my fur babies for Christmas
19/12/2022

Made these and they turned out well. Going to wrap them for all my fur babies for Christmas

Woferlow Foolish Pleasure.
06/12/2022

Woferlow Foolish Pleasure.

Woferlow Riva Ridge. Aka Riva.
06/12/2022

Woferlow Riva Ridge. Aka Riva.

George taking up all the settee.
01/12/2022

George taking up all the settee.

George and Doobie Doo cuddled up together.
17/11/2022

George and Doobie Doo cuddled up together.

New babies.  Mara is a proud and attentive momma.
16/11/2022

New babies. Mara is a proud and attentive momma.

George trying out the new dachshund chair.
16/11/2022

George trying out the new dachshund chair.

26/10/2022

George having a crazy moment.

When you’re too big for just one bed. You just gotta stretch out.
30/08/2022

When you’re too big for just one bed. You just gotta stretch out.

17/08/2022

This sums our breed up perfectly!!
If you are not a hound person, it may be hard to understand, but this says it all…

A basic understanding...Regarding your hound dog that I think most people miss.

Hounds do not believe that they need you. You are a convenience - like a favorite coffee cup or a favorite pair of shoes. If the cup is broken or the shoes are lost, we can get along just fine.

Let me explain:
Other dogs like Labs, Shepherds, herding breeds, and a host of others, are bred to work WITH man; neither can do their work without the other. Even the worst behaved Lab cares when mom and dad are annoyed. It is in their DNA to make man happy.
Hounds...not so much.

Hounds have been bred to be taken out to the edge of the woods or field and be let loose to go out and do what they do with NO INSTRUCTION from the hunter or handler. They go out and do their thing, all on their own. They make their own decisions and do their own work. And when that work is done and they have found their quarry, they command/call the hunter to come to them with those beautiful voices. (Who is working for whom in that scenario?)

Do you see how your hound thinks differently?

Life with a Hound is far more like having a spouse than a dog. It is far more of a "cooperative effort" with all the give and take that implies. Hounds are not going to do what you say just because you have said it. You are secondary to their desire. There has to be something in it for them. There has to be a trade off. If there is no reward or benefit for the Hound, the Hound cares little what you are asking him/her to do. People incorrectly refer to this as being stubborn - or worse, stupid. Hounds are actually neither of those things - they are just independent and cunning. They prioritize things differently than do other breeds. They prioritize differently and *you* are not always their priority.
This is EXACTLY AS THEY SHOULD BE.
They were bred to be this way.
It is all necessary to be a Houndy Dawg.

When working with a Hound you have to always be thinking:
How do I make myself the priority?
What do I have to give this dog to make me more important than what it smells - or wants? (and do not expect that anything will ever be 100% successful every time - always be looking for your Hound to act like a Hound.)
We humans always think we are in charge of things. We think that we are top of the chain, the head honchos ... and we naturally approach training our dogs and living with our dogs this way - as though we are in charge.
Your Hound doesn't see it that way.
Your Hound - at best - sees you as a family member or as a sibling (if you are very fortunate - as a parent). Do you walk into your sister or brother's house, start barking orders and they hop to?

Mostly your Hound sees you as a good friend. And what do we do with our friends? When a friend does something for us, we return those favors. There is give and take. When a friendship is out of balance - when one friend takes and takes but does not give - the friendship suffers. It is okay for one friend to be the strong friend - the dominant friend in the partnership -- -but it is *always* a partnership.

Hounds are happiest when their humans are humble.

⭐️💞Not my writing but it is so true of the Hound group and think this should be printed out and given to any body who is wanting to buy a hound and has not had experience with them💞⭐️

Address

Evesham
WR118RL

Opening Hours

Monday 9am - 5pm
Tuesday 9am - 5pm
Wednesday 9am - 5pm
Thursday 9am - 5pm
Friday 9am - 5pm
Saturday 9am - 5pm
Sunday 9am - 5pm

Telephone

+44138647452

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