Allowed to watch.
Given the time he needs to assess.
Make his own choices.
History of being rewarded for watching.
Predictability.
No tension.
Trust in his human.
Feeling safe.
Can only be successfully achieved in the early days when you give your dog enough distance from his triggers.
So, when your Dog Trainer asks you to "cross the road" or "turn around" or "walk away from other dogs" it *is not* because they are telling you to "just avoid difficult situations" it is because it is exactly what your dog needs to begin the learning process.
Don't feel disheartened or say, "but how will my dog ever learn if I continuously avoid his triggers" .... No one is asking you to CONTINUOUSLY avoid the triggers .... We are asking you to avoid them for now because your dog needs this amount of distance to feel safe. Build on that. Every day. Every walk. And then gradually, over time, the distance needed can begin to be reduced.
Or .... You just chuck a prong collar on your dog and claim to have "fixed" him when actually he is just too scared now to show you how he's really feeling.
There is NEVER any need to use prong collars in Dog Training.
Kind, ethical, reward based training with the dogs emotional well being considered at all times ππ
Hunter π
www.KangalDogTrainerUK.co.uk
Allow your LGD to be a LGD π©
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IMAGINE THAT ....!!!
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Reactive Dog VIDEO 3
**SET YOUR DOG UP FOR SUCCESS**
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I want him to relax in the home.
I want him to settle down. To snooze. To be calm indoors. To feel happy. To be content.
I *DO NOT* want him pacing around the house from room to room. I don't want him scratching at the doors to get back outside. I don't want him alert. I don't want him unsettled.
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Reactive Dog *video two*
TRIGGER STACKING .... Is when a series of events happen over a short space of time.
We've all been there. We've all had really bad days & really bad weeks which make us snap at things which we wouldn't usually snap at. The difference is, when it happens to a human we're really good at recognising it and giving ourselves a break and giving ourselves time to recover but, with our dogs, they often live in a world where the triggers just keep on coming .... And coming ....
www.KangalDogTrainerUK.co.uk
Allowing them time to stop if they want to.
Let them sniff .... Don't rush them along.
It's not about getting to the destination .... "Quick!! We must get around the park & back within the hour!!"
But, it's about the journey, together "I've got an hour of my day dedicated entirely to my best mate and he can choose what we do / where we go for that hour. If we only get a quarter of the way around the park in that hour then that's ok .... There must have been some very important sniffs for him today" ππ
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#DontCareIfHesNotAKangal π€£π€£
Walking nicely on the lead.
In a harness.
No pressure or discomfort on his neck from a choke chain.
No pressure or discomfort around his snout from a head collar.
Relaxed.
He is allowed to stop and sniff whenever he wants. For as long as he wants.
He is allowed to stop & process his environment whenever he wants.
If he is ever worried about something that he sees / hears / smells / senses then he knows I will move him away and then when he feels safe we can stop and investigate from a distance, if he wants to.
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Let sleeping dogs lie ....
You should NEVER disturb a dog whilst he is sleeping - don't fuss them, touch them, stroke them, kiss them, tickle their feet ...
Hunter isn't sleeping here. I started filming because he was rolling around on his back, being silly. Typically, when I switched the camera on, he immediately stopped & flopped down - which is what you see here.
I *knew* he wasn't asleep or even resting properly. Literally, 2 seconds before this he was rolling around.
His body language is good. He's not asking me to stop. He's not showing the whites of his eyes / pulling his ears back / tensing his lips up.
He is totally aware of me touching him and I'm not at risk of starting him.
If he had been sleeping, I'd NEVER touch him like this.
Let sleeping dogs lie ....
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Resource Guarding
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Hunters story .....
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