Off Lead Dogs
๐๐ผ๐ด / ๐ฑ๐ผ๐ด ๐ถ๐ป๐๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐๐ถ๐ผ๐ป๐
I was involved in a discussion on another page recently on the subject of off lead dogs. I made a comment to the effect that preventing dogs from interacting with each other (in the absence of valid reasons not to) isn't helpful for developing good social skills. Some people ๐ง๐๐๐ก๐ก๐ฎ didn't like that point of view but this clip is a great example of why I believe that unscripted dog/dog interactions can be of value (under the right conditions*).
7 month old River is learning how to be off lead. We were working on her remaining connected with her human in the face of distractions when a dog decided to come over and join us. We could choose to be annoyed by that or we could choose to use it as a learning opportunity. We chose the latter and River learned -
โข that she can remain calm as a dog approaches
โข that other dogs aren't a cue to have a party
โข that polite, calm behaviour around other dogs is a good choice
โข that when he leaves she doesn't need to follow
โข that re-engaging with her human is rewarding
โข that she has the skills to navigate social situations confidently
And her human learned (because we talked about it afterwards) -
โข how to assess when an interaction is likely to be fine and when it might be best avoided
โข how to manage the interaction
โข how to make it easy for the unknown dog to leave (clue...don't feed them!)
โข how to maintain connection with River under these conditions
If we had chosen to avoid this interaction on principle we'd have missed all these learning points. And I think that would be a wasted opportunity. Avoiding ๐๐ก๐ก interactions in the hope of avoiding ๐ฅ๐ค๐ค๐ง interactions might be well meaning but, in the long term, is it really helpful?
*๐๐ฉ๐ฆ๐ณ๐ฆ ๐ข๐ณ๐ฆ ๐ค๐ญ๐ฆ๐ข๐ณ๐ญ๐บ ๐ช๐ฏ๐ด๐ต๐ข๐ฏ๐ค๐ฆ๐ด ๐ธ๐ฉ๐ฆ๐ณ๐ฆ ๐ช๐ฏ๐ต๐ฆ๐ณ๐ข๐ค๐ต๐ช
Change the environment. Change the behaviour.
Atlas can find being around strangers difficult and can become very overwhelmed when people enter his home. But by changing just a few things, by creating a predictable pattern, by giving him time to settle and by making calmer behaviours a more attractive option for him we get this....relaxed, calm and happy, off lead with a stranger in his home.
Atlas isn't an aggressive dog or an unfriendly dog. He's a dog who can feel overwhelmed under certain conditions. And if we change those conditions we can change his behaviour.
Atlas doesn't need to be punished. He doesn't need to be shown a 'firm hand'. He just needs someone to take a little time to set things up to help him feel safer & calmer and to give him clear, consistent, kind boundaries. And if we can't do that for our friends & companions, we don't deserve them.
Loose Lead Walking
๐๐๐ฎ ๐๐ค ๐๐ค๐๐จ ๐ฅ๐ช๐ก๐ก?
Is it 'disobedience' or is it something more? Sometimes it can be as simple as wanting to get somewhere more quickly. Or as obvious as trying to follow a scent trail. But sometimes it's more complex and is a reflection of something deeper.
Freya can struggle with frustration and overarousal when she is restricted to a shorter lead. That frustration can display itself as pulling, lunging and barking. If we want to successfully tackle her pulling (which has been extreme enough in the past to cause injury to her humans) we first have to address the underlying cause. Because if we don't we're only ever papering over the cracks.
So before we even start on loose lead walking exercises we allow Freya some time to catch her breath and settle. Then we work on some simple focus / disengagement exercises. And only then do we start working on loose lead walking. And when she feels calmer on the inside we begin to see a corresponding change in her behaviour on the outside.
No punishment, no corrections, no slip leads, no prong collars, no e-collars. Because they aren't needed.
First Time Off Lead
Off lead freedom for dogs is often a contentious topic. But it's only contentious because too many dogs are allowed more freedom than they have the skills to cope with.
Dogs benefit from time off lead. They sniff more. They move more naturally & freely. They have more agency & choice. They can engage more easily in natural behaviours. So, I believe, ๐ช๐ง ๐ช๐ต'๐ด ๐ด๐ข๐ง๐ฆ ๐ต๐ฐ ๐ฅ๐ฐ ๐ด๐ฐ, that we should allow our dogs some off lead freedom in appropriate environments*.
๐ฝ๐ช๐ฉ....
That freedom comes with responsibilities...to teach our dogs the skills they need in order to ensure that their freedom doesn't cause a nuisance or danger to those around them.
๐๐ค๐ฌ ๐๐ค ๐ฌ๐ ๐๐ค ๐ฉ๐๐๐ฉ?
โข We use tools like long lines to carefully manage the amount of freedom they get (not just unleash them and hope for the best)
โข We choose the environments where we allow our dogs more freedom carefully
โข We learn to risk assess
โข We actively engage & connect with them, not get lost in our own thoughts or in our phones
โข We reward focus, connection, reorientation, disenagement from distractions and we reward them consistently, generously & well
โข We are fun!
โข We are mindful of other people's experience
โข We create clear boundaries
โข Before the lead comes off we work on foundational skills like focus & calmness
When we do these things this is what we can get. Engagement, focus, fun and a happy little dog who can be given controlled freedom to live her best life without impacting others.
*๐๐ฐ๐ต ๐ข๐ญ๐ญ ๐ฅ๐ฐ๐จ๐ด ๐ค๐ข๐ฏ ๐ฃ๐ฆ ๐จ๐ช๐ท๐ฆ๐ฏ ๐ฐ๐ง๐ง ๐ญ๐ฆ๐ข๐ฅ ๐ง๐ณ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ฅ๐ฐ๐ฎ ๐ช๐ฏ ๐ข๐ญ๐ญ ๐ค๐ฐ๐ฏ๐ฅ๐ช๐ต๐ช๐ฐ๐ฏ๐ด. ๐๐ฐ๐ณ ๐ด๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ฆ ๐ฅ๐ฐ๐จ๐ด ๐ต๐ฉ๐ฆ ๐ณ๐ช๐ด๐ฌ๐ด ๐ฎ๐ข๐บ ๐ฃ๐ฆ ๐ต๐ฐ๐ฐ ๐ฉ๐ช๐จ๐ฉ ๐ฐ๐ณ ๐ต๐ฉ๐ฆ ๐ฆ๐ฏ๐ท๐ช๐ฐ๐ณ๐ฏ๐ฎ๐ฆ๐ฏ๐ต ๐ต๐ฐ
To greet or not to greet....
๐๐๐๐ฃ ๐๐๐ ๐ฌ๐ ๐๐๐๐ค๐ข๐ ๐จ๐ค ๐จ๐๐๐ง๐๐ ๐ค๐ ๐๐ก๐ก๐ค๐ฌ๐๐ฃ๐ ๐ค๐ช๐ง ๐๐ค๐๐จ ๐ฉ๐ค ๐๐ฃ๐ฉ๐๐ง๐๐๐ฉ ๐ฌ๐๐ฉ๐ ๐ค๐ฉ๐๐๐ง ๐๐ค๐๐จ?
I saw a video earlier today where the poster said โ...we donโt allow any dog to approach, friendly or otherwiseโ. And that blanket attitude - that a dog should never interact with an unknown dog - is one I've seen expressed more often in recent years.
Before I go any further I want to make it clear that I am not advocating for indiscriminate interactions between all dogs. I'm not suggesting that dogs should be allowed to approach any dog at any time with no control. Or that it's ok for dogs to run amok. Or that every dog should like other dogs. Or that there should be an expectation that all dogs can, or want to, interact. Because that would be stupid, not to say dangerous...
There are some dogs for whom interactions with unknown dogs are just too difficult or dangerous. Those dogs are not who I'm talking about here.
But for other dogs are we really doing the right thing by them if we don't allow them to interact (appropriately) with their own species? Is avoiding ๐๐ก๐ก interactions in an attempt to avoid ๐ฅ๐ค๐ค๐ง interactions helping or hindering? Is it fair or right to severely limit their access to their own species (should they want it) because of our own worries or anxieties? How do we ever teach dogs how to interact if we don't let them interact?
When we either donโt allow, or excessively micromanage, their interactions with other dogs are we inadvertently limiting their ability to learn & practice social skills and thereby increasing the likelihood of reactivity, inappropriate interactions and frustration?
Isn't one of the responsibilities of dog ownership to actively teach our dogs how and when to interact politely (which includes when ๐ฏ๐ฐ๐ต to interact)? Isn
Loose Lead Walking
Three things which can get in the way of progress -
โ๏ธ Unrealistic expectations
โ๏ธ Inconsistent rewards
โ๏ธ Inconsistent boundaries
Three ways to counteract these -
โ
Don't wait for perfection! Reward anything which is better than what you currently have. You need to get a foot in the door and if you wait for the behavour you want to be perfect you might be waiting a long time. We can increase criteria as behaviours get stronger but in the early stage of learning reward what your dog ๐ค๐ข๐ฏ do instead of waiting in vain for what they can't.
โ
Reward well. Reward often. Reward consistently. Reward small chunks of behaviour. One of the key differences between successful trainers and less successful trainers is their rate of reinforcement. Consistent, well timed rewards help your dog understand so much more clearly what behaviours you like. And make them far more likely to offer them. Don't ask for too much behaviour and offer too little reward. That way failure lies.
โ
Be consistent in your boundaries. Consistency brings clarity and (I think) lack of clarity is at the root of a lot of behaviour challenges. If we are inconsistent in our behavour how can we expect our dogs to be consistent in theirs?
By making these three changes (which were all changes in the human behavoiur, it's worth pointing out...) we saw a dramatic improvement in Harper's lead walking this morning. We rewarded anything that wasn't her worse pulling (even if the improvement was marginal), we significantly upped the rate of reward and we (gently) underlined that strong pulling wouldn't get her where she wanted to go . That was it. No corrections, no changes in equipment, no force.
Oh....and all on a harness too ๐
Good things come to those who wait...
๐๐ค๐ค๐ ๐ฉ๐๐๐ฃ๐๐จ ๐๐ค๐ข๐ ๐ฉ๐ค ๐ฉ๐๐ค๐จ๐ ๐ฌ๐๐ค ๐ฌ๐๐๐ฉ...
Margot & Phoebe (how fabulous are those names?!) are two livewire little Labs who are ๐ท๐ฆ๐ณ๐บ food motivated! So waiting politely when there is food on the go isn't something that comes easily. But in a multi dog household (the girls also live with an older dog) it's important that all the dogs display polite behaviours around food to help avoid potential conflict.
Here the girls are learning -
โข that their name predicts the food is coming to them
โข that there is enough food to go round
โข that if they wait their turn will come
โข that there's no need to jump up for food
โข that calm focus in front of a human is rewarding
โข that there's no need to try to steal their sibling's food
โข that good things come to those who wait
So many practical life skills from one simple exercise.
If you are interested in puppy training which focuses on practical, useful lifeskills like these rather than traditional "obedience" please get in touch. I'd love to help you.
Maggie's First Ever walk
Maggieโs first ever walk ๐๐พ
Things Maggie learned -
โข that sheโs listened to and when she needs time sheโs given it
โข that hanging out with her people is cool
โข that she wonโt be rushed
โข that she has freedom to explore but that returning to her people is always a good choice
โข that she can interact with some of the dogs (& people) some of the time but not all of the dogs (& people) all of the time
Things Maggieโs humans learned -
โข to see the world through Maggieโs eyes
โข to see, and reward, good choices
โข to be patient
โข to advocate for her when she needs it
โข to give her the freedom to be a dog
Teaching a puppy is about so much more than sits & stays and the best time to start is right from the start. Theyโre learning whether weโre teaching them or not and your life together will be so much easier if you direct that learning right from the get go.
If youโd like my help getting off to the very best start with your puppy please get in touch. Iโd love to help you!
Aversives are aversive regardless of species
The footage which has emerged of the training methods employed by equestrian, Charlotte Dujardin, has resulted in widespread comdemnation. And rightly so.
But where's the outcry about the aversive methods many dogs are subjected to every day? Slip leads, prong collars, e-collars, 'bonkers', compressed air sprays, air horns, rattle cans, training discs...all in common usage by owners & trainers alike and all seen by many as totally acceptable ways to teach dogs.
If the use of a whip bothers you then the use of these tools should too....
Goals
This morning Charlie didn't want to go for a walk. He's been a little reluctant lately so I think he's a wee bit sore (a vet check up is booked).
So this afternoon we didn't "go for a walk". Because his behaviour was telling me very clearly that he didn't want to. Instead, we found a sunny spot and just hung out for a bit. He sniffed & mooched. Had a roll. Came & sat beside me. Had a paddle. It was lovely. We didn't cover much ground but he got all the exercise & enrichment he needed in a way that suited him.
Dogs tell us how they feel all the time. But sometimes we don't listen because we simply don't see the behaviour for the communication it is, or because we dismiss it as the dog being "stubborn" or "dominant" or some other label, or because we allow conventional dogma to tell us that we need to be "in charge".
Behaviour is communication. Listening doesn't make us weak or permissive. It makes us better owners and builds stronger bonds.
๐๐๐๐๐ค๐ช๐จ ๐พ๐ฎ๐๐ก๐ ๐ค๐ง ๐๐๐ง๐ฉ๐ช๐ค๐ช๐จ ๐พ๐ฎ๐๐ก๐?
Maple's owners contacted me because Maple found being around other dogs very difficult. She was hypervigilant and on edge when she was outdoors. Because of her generally high levels of anxiety and arousal she pulled like a train on the lead which tipped her even further into over arousal, which made her reactions to dogs worse which made her more over aroused and so it went. A vicious cycle where one challenging behaviour fed another and things just progressively got worse.
Over our time together we have worked on breaking that cycle. We made some simple changes which helped her slow down & settle and so reduced her overarousal. When she was calmer we started working on predictable, secure patterns of behavour which helped her feel safer. Because she felt safer she became able to observe other dogs around her without having to lunge/bark/growl at them. Because she wasn't over reacting she remained calmer. Because she was calmer she stopped pulling on the lead and so it went. A virtuous cycle where one helpful behaviour feeds and supports another and things get progressively better.
By breaking unhelpful patterns and building new ones Maple has gone from shouting at dogs across the park to being able to be around dogs in close proximity (and having different ways to ask for support when she needs it). No force, no punishment....just the willingness to take a little time to change how Maple feels in order to change how Maple behaves.
Fabulous work from this amazing team who have done everything that was asked of them and are now reaping the rewards.
If your dog struggles to relax and feel safe out in the world get in touch. I'd love to help you.
Check out this little beauty! Over the moon with my gorgeous boy in ceramic form by Alison Jenkins Animal Artwork. Him to a T ๐๐ผ
No corrections required
This is a longer video (4m30) and there are mistakes* in it (which Iโm well aware of!). It's from a good few years ago when I hadn't quite got a handle on my tendency to push things & rush a bit! But I thought it was still a good illustration of the fact that, if we choose to, we can teach brand new behaviours without ever having to resort to corrections or punishment.
We can teach without punishment if we...
โข break things down into small, achievable chunks making it easy for the learner to get it right;
โข reward each small chunk consistently and well;
โข increase criteria gradually, always keeping things achieveable
If we take the time to do these things we can get to our goal behaviour without ever needing to correct our learner.
This is a 'for fun' behaviour but it could just as easily be something more practical - go to bed, go into your crate, wait at a door, stand still to get your harness on, walk on a loose lead. Anything!
It is absolutely possible to teach dogs (& humans!) effectively without having to resort to punishing them. And if we can, why wouldn't we?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*A few things to note...
โข there are a couple of moments where I withold a click when Charlie offers a previously reinforced behaviour in an attempt to get him to offer something more/different. This could be frustrating for some dogs but Charlie understands the process and knows that this is an opportunity to offer a different behaviour. A less clicker savvy dog or a dog who's prone to frustration may struggle with that 'gap'
โข my treat delivery was horrible at the start as I had a very annoying upward flick of my wrist each time. But that's the benefit of recording your training...you spot things you aren't aware of in the moment!
โข there are a couple of moments where I probably wait a little too long and leave him hanging a wee bit. But he's a forgiving wee guy and doesn't hold it against me!
Give them time!
Sometimes the things that owners of reactive dogs find difficult are the very things which are helpful to their dogs. Often the human response to potential triggers is to get as far away as possible as quickly as possible. Or to rush our dogs away at the first sign of a reaction*. But in our rush to avoid any possibility of a reaction we may be limiting our dogs' opportunity to learn.
If you have the option to do it safely, allowing your dog the time & space to observe & assess their triggers can be hugely beneficial to help them to settle, relax and regulate themselves.
Herbert can be an anxious wee guy and can find being around other dogs difficult. But when he's given some time to observe he begins to settle and relax. The more settled and relaxed he becomes the more confident he gets, and the more confident he gets the better choices he makes. And every time he has a good social interaction he's learning that he can do this thing! Which feeds into the next interaction, and the next...until he's happily playing with a dog he's just met.
Specific things we did during this session -
โข didn't rush him
โข gave him as much time as he needed to observe
โข monitored his body language for signs of more relaxation and less vigilance
โข stopped when he did. Stopping is often a dog's way of saying "here is where I feel safe"
โข gave him space when his behaviour & body language suggested he needed it (but in a relaxed, calm, in control manner...not in a panicked "OMG, let's get out of here!" way)
โข switched him to a long line once he was settled. This gives him more agency and allows us to more accurately assess how he's feeling
Things we didn't do -
โข use much food (because we didn't need to)
โข get stressed about the odd bark. We're looking at the bigger picture...more relaxed body language, a willingness to move with us, interaction with us instead of constant vigilance etc
โข rush him away every time he barked
โข correct him
So....let them watch and
Charlie didnโt want to go for a walk yesterday. So we didnโt.
No drama. No angst. No forcing him. He just hung out in the garden instead. I donโt know why he didnโt want to go. Heโd been at the groomers earlier so perhaps he was just tired, or his emotional cup was full? Who knows?
There are things in all our lives which arenโt optional. There are times when we might need to overrule our dogsโ wishes for their own benefit or because what theyโd choose isnโt possible or advisable. But if what they choose comes at no cost* to them or us, why not?
Your relationship will be far better for listening to them than forcing them.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
* behaviour is communication so if your dog regularly opts out of normal day to day activities itโs always worth considering *why* your dog is making that choice. If Charlie started to refuse walks more often Iโd be considering why that might be (pain? Anxiety? Environment?) and taking steps to address that. But as an occasional event I donโt sweat it or overanalyse it
A training session with no training...?
A training session no training? Sometimes that's exactly what the human end of the lead needs...
Dealing with behaviour problems is challenging and sometimes the most helpful thing a trainer can do is listen, empathise, give an objective point of view and help the client gain some perspective & clarity.
PS Yes...it's July and yes, I have my hat on. The joys of a Scottish summer ๐๐๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ง
Your anxious dog being relaxed enough to do โdog stuffโ in the presence of things that usually worry them is a great sign of progress.
Sometimes dogs need the structure & framework of specific training exercises and protocols, particularly at the start of their learning journey.
But as they progress and their skills & confidence begin to grow we need to learn to step back a little and give them the space to make their own choices when faced with a trigger (always being ready to step up if weโre needed). And if those choices are to do โdog stuffโ thatโs a strong indicator youโre on the right path.
So if your anxious dog wants to roll (or dig or sniffโฆ)โฆ..let them!
Avoidance? Flooding? Or something in between?
๐ผ๐ซ๐ค๐๐๐๐ฃ๐๐? ๐๐ก๐ค๐ค๐๐๐ฃ๐? ๐๐ง ๐จ๐ค๐ข๐๐ฉ๐๐๐ฃ๐ ๐๐ฃ ๐๐๐ฉ๐ฌ๐๐๐ฃ?
Avoidance and flooding are two common, but opposite, ways to deal with reactive behaviours.
Avoidance of all triggers can be easier for the human but it offers the dog no opportunity to learn. It doesn't address the underlying cause of the behaviours and, if the triggers are difficult to avoid, can lead to a limited and restrictive life for both dog & human. Do we want to avoid reactions? Yes...but that's not the same as totally avoiding all triggers all the time.
Flooding is exposing a dog to its triggers at a high intensity with no option to escape in the hope that they will 'face their fear'. This technique may result in a cessation of overt reactive behaviours but that's as likely to be because the dog simply gives up & shuts down as because they've suddenly had a Damascene conversion and decided the scary thing is no longer scary. It's a 'sink or swim' approach and is as unpleasant as it sounds.
So if neither avoidance nor flooding is the answer, what is? Gentle, controlled exposure while keeping your dog feeling safe. How do we do this? By...
โข Giving them the space they need to remain calm
โข Giving them the time they need to observe
โข Allowing them to move away if they need to
โข Lots of reinforcement of desirable behaviours while in the presence of the trigger
โข Gradually increasing criteria always being mindful to move at the dog's pace
Arlo can be unpredictable around other dogs when he is on lead. But by starting off at a distance where he could remain relaxed and observe calmly then, as he relaxed more, gradually moving closer we were able to walk him past a very large group of dogs in close proximity with no reaction.
Total avoidance of triggers is limiting and will never address the underlying issues. Flooding is a horrible thing to put a dog through. Insted, by giving him the
Think more, not less!
"๐๐ฉ๐ฆ๐ฏ ๐ค๐ข๐ฏ ๐ ๐ด๐ต๐ฐ๐ฑ ๐ถ๐ด๐ช๐ฏ๐จ ๐ง๐ฐ๐ฐ๐ฅ?"
It's a really common question but it's the wrong question! Instead of thinking about what we can remove, we should be thinking about what we can add.
We should have a rich, varied, exciting smorgasbord of delights to choose from when we are rewarding our dog for a job well done. We're not motivated by the same thing all the time and neither are our dogs. Having a range of rewards at our fingertips allows us to choose the best fit for a given situation.
A great game of tug for recalling away from a potential playmate might be of more value to your dog under those conditions than a piece of food. A gentle pet might be more suited to teaching quiet, calm behaviours than a game of fetch.
When it comes to rewards think more, not less.
Loose Lead Walking - Small Changes, Big Difference
Sometimes (not always!) all that's needed to make a big impact on a dog's behaviour are some small changes in the human's behaviour.
Freya is a wonderful, gentle girl but she's strong and she can become a little overwhelmed and overexcited by people and dogs around her. This combination was making walking with her challenging and stressful but a few small changes have made a significant positive change to her behaviour. She's calmer, more focused and she's moving better on lead.
What did we change?
โข we switched her to a harness and a longer, fixed length lead (8 ft)
โข we slowed everything down & gave her time to process things around her instead of rushing her on
โข we rewarded the things we liked, in particular, a slack lead and focus on her human in the presence of distractions
That's it. Nothing complicated. Nothing fancy. No need for choke chains or slip leads or a 'heavy hand' or 'showing her who's boss'. Just some small, simple changes from the humans making a big difference for the dog.
