Jo Hinds - Dog Trainer & Pet Behaviour Advisor

08/09/2025

My latest article is now out in Dogs Today Magazine issue 372 Are you misinterpreting your dog’s fear
responses? Is your dog simply overexcited or
is he actually scared? Do you think he’s friendly
with strangers when he’s really uneasy? https://dogstodaymagazine.co.uk/product/dogs-today-magazine-issue-372/

04/09/2025

I always advise clients to take water out for their dogs whatever the weather. Some will say their dog doesn’t drink outside, but often it’s how the water is being offered that makes the difference.

Water is more than just hydration it supports learning. Stressed dogs often need to drink more, and a thirsty dog may refuse treats, which makes training harder.

Drinking is also a vulnerable position. With their head down, dogs need to feel safe. If their back is towards a potential threat, they may not relax enough to lower their guard and take a drink. I usually place a filled water dispenser on the floor and wait patiently in a spot where the dog feels comfortable. Rushing or pushing it towards them often puts them off and let’s face it, we humans are usually in a hurry.

It also helps if the dispenser is introduced at home first. If a dog won’t drink from it there, they’re unlikely to drink from it outside, especially if something new is suddenly thrust towards them. Always ensure the bowl or container is deep enough. Dogs don’t lap water like cats; they scoop it with the back of their tongue and flick it into their mouth, so shallow containers can make this harder and discourage them from drinking.

If you offer water by hand (like in the picture), hold it firmly and keep enough water in your hands so the dog can scoop it up properly. Avoid pouring water straight from a bottle into a dog’s mouth. Most dogs will rasp, cough, or even choke because the water goes in too quickly and doesn’t allow them to scoop it naturally. It can also feel stressful or unnatural, causing them to back away. Using a travel bowl, cupped hands, or a dog-specific bottle with a spout allows them to drink at their own pace safely.

Dogs may drink more after sniffing sessions, play, or stressful encounters, so these are ideal times to pause and offer water. Don’t wait until your dog is panting heavily or clearly thirsty small, regular sips keep them more comfortable.

Of course, some dogs can be fussy with water. It might taste too chlorinated, be too cold or too warm, or they may simply prefer the freshness of rainwater or the movement of flowing water. While these preferences are natural, safety is important. Drinking from puddles, ditches, or other stagnant water can expose dogs to bacteria, parasites, harmful chemicals, or toxic algae. If your dog does enjoy natural sources, try to stick to safe, flowing water such as streams, but wherever possible, offer your own clean, familiar supply to reduce the chance of them turning to unsafe alternatives.

Some behaviourists and vets also suggest that when dogs are drawn to puddles or stagnant water, it might be linked to the mineral content. Natural sources can contain trace elements like iron, magnesium, or calcium that aren’t always present in treated tap water so they could be lacking in these. That said, most well-fed dogs on a balanced diet won’t be lacking in essential minerals, so it’s can just be the smell, taste, or novelty that attracts them.

Making water readily available isn’t just about preventing dehydration it’s about supporting your dog’s comfort, confidence, and ability to learn. By offering it in the right way, at the right times, and from safe sources, you’re helping your dog feel secure enough to meet their needs and enjoy their time out with you. A little patience and preparation go a long way towards keeping walks calmer, training easier, and your dog healthier.

02/08/2025

Well I have just got tearful listening to this. Thank you Katie and Ethan for the great reading and wonderful review. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1Jddrjoiqx/?mibextid=wwXIfr

29/07/2025

I’m proud to be a professional recognised for putting ethics, welfare, and transparency first.

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22/07/2025

This little beauty is Nelly the 🐾

I had the pleasure of working with Nelly on my For Pup’s Sake: Revelation programme. She was just 6 months old when we met an adorable little whirlwind with energy to spare!

Her caregivers reached out to me about a few challenges:
• Lead pulling
• Non-existent recall
• Jumping up and mouthing (especially when greeting people)
• General hyper behaviour
• Biting during excitement or overwhelm

When I first met Nelly, it was easy to see why things felt overwhelming. She’d often go into full-blown zoomies, which on the surface looked like excitement but were really I felt during assessment was her way of coping with uncertainty or stress. On walks, she’d either panic and try to bolt making walking near roads dangerous or frantically scavenge as a way I felt to self-soothe (this would always happen when she saw someone). Her body language didn’t scream fear, in the obvious way it was in the flirt/fawning/fool about response instead.

It’s common for care givers to tire breed types like her out but what Nelly needed wasn’t more, it was less. Less pressure. Less structure. Less expectation to be still. She didn’t need to be trained into rigid obedience she needed to move in a way that helped her feel safe and regulated.

So we ditched the tight heelwork, swapped to a longer lead, and focused on connection, curiosity, and relaxing which in turn led to her walking together with her care givers. She needed to process, not just power through. She found treats unrewarding on walks taking them in an obligatory way or avoiding when offered, treats can be seen negative when preventing escape or natural behaviours that they want or need.

We encouraged sniffing, pausing, observing. Rather than chasing toys repetitively, we channelled her natural breed behaviours flushing, finding, and light retrieving, while being mindful not to overdo it. I find at times these dogs can get stuck in a ‘working’ mode that’s hard to switch off so enrichment activities have to be thought out mindfully.

When we went to the field, the pattern had been to let her just run but Nelly wasn’t exploring she was zooming mindlessly, unable to relax frantic no exploring or sniffing not even in the quartering fashion her breed type can be known to do. So we slowed things right down. We stopped in small sections of the field encouraging her to explore the space, giving her permission to be rather than do.

She reminded me so much of my own son, who has ADHD and Autism. There’s not a lot of research on this in dogs, but I often wonder if dogs like Nelly experience the world in a similar way, are we changing their brain types through the way we breed. Do they have differences in their brain pathways too? Are they constantly moving because they need too?

In people with ADHD (myself included), the brain often struggles to regulate dopamine, a chemical that helps with focus, motivation, and emotional balance. Movement can help increase dopamine levels naturally, which is why so many people with ADHD feel the need to move in order to think, process, or feel calm. Sitting still isn’t just uncomfortable it can be mentally and physically distressing.

I saw that in Nelly. Her movement wasn’t always purposeful it was constant, chaotic, and sometimes frantic. But I think it was her way of coping. Just like my son sometimes needs to pace, fidget, or bounce to feel regulated, I believe dogs like Nelly need movement too not as a release of energy, but as a way to feel okay in their body.

Sleep and rest is still vital for brain function and this was a foreign concept in this girl she was always on the go. She slept well in the night but did not sleep or nap at all in the day so this was an area we focused on and she now take her self away to rest. It’s important for recovery.

We did focus on some relaxed behaviours and on play that filled her up instead of leaving her frazzled.

Much of our work was simply about strengthening the communication between everyone better understand what Nelly was trying to say through her behaviour.

She didn’t need fixing she just needed space to be herself, prevent rehearsal of behaviours when people came into the house and with support that matched her needs and training that focused on safety and arms not being pulled out of sockets!

It was a pleasure working with her and her amazing carer givers. ❤️

21/07/2025

Just thought I would share, these cooling mats have been highly recommended to me for a dog that would chew the other plastic types!

Prevent dehydration and overheating in pets with our portable cooling mat. No water, ice, or charging needed. Grab yours now at MrFluffyFriend™!

11/07/2025

Great post by The Mutty Professor

HOT WEATHER & AN INCREASE IN BITE RISK 🥵

We've had some very hot weather recently in the UK, and for many parts of the UK- the next three days are going to be scorchio!

It's important to be aware that being too hot can lower thresholds for tolerance and overt reactions- and not just in 'reactive' dogs.

And not just in dogs!

There's a correlation between human riots and an increase in crime during a significant rise in temperature (27 to 32 degrees).
It is well established that in people, heat stress causes irritability and an increased likelihood of aggressive behaviour.

Being hot and bothered is a physical stressor - the body works hard to return to homeostasis.

Cognitive processes can be negatively affected. So if your dog is not responding to as they would normally, consider the effects of heat.

Furthermore- being too hot can interfere with a dog's ability to rest and sleep. During rest and sleep, stress is lowered, and subsequently compromised rest and sleep affects behaviour.

This can affect (lower) the dog's threshold for emotional stress.


🐕 Two unfamiliar dogs meeting while both are hot and bothered is less likely going to result in a healthy interaction. Now is the time to largely keep yourselves to yourselves on walks, or monitor the body language of both dogs very carefully.

🏡 Extra caution should be taken in situations that your dog may struggle with, such as around visitors to the home.

🧒 But the greatest caution of all should be taken around up-close interactions in ALL dogs, especially those who live children.

Remember these basic safeguarding rules;

1. No faces near faces.

2. Let sleeping dogs lie.

3. Do not forcefully take resources (toys, food or anything the dog has found/picked up) off a dog.
Children should never take things off a dog.

4. Do not 'box dogs in' with your interaction.

- Always ensure they can easily move away by not blocking a dog's ability to move forward/away (for example, wrapping your arms around to hug a dog front on makes it near impossible for them to easily disengage).

- The safest way to interact is to invite a dog to come to you.
Alternatively, if you do approach then do so when they are awake and instead of swooping straight in with strokes- wait for them to signal to you they are keen for an interaction.

- Stop stroking after 2-3 seconds, and see if your dog communicates to you they would like more, or if they are done.
This is called the consent test, and it's something all children (and adults) should be aware of.


Most people who get bitten by a dog know the dog well, didn't think their dog would ever bite someone and didn't see the bite coming.

Most dog bites are on faces and hands of someone close to the dog, and this tells us a lot about what the person was LIKELY doing (Note, there are always exceptions).


As I always say to my clients ......

🗣️ Never take your dog's current level of tolerance for granted.

07/07/2025

Which Operant Quadrant Are You Using… Without Realising?

You’re approaching a road with a dog on the lead. You stop. You gently prevent the dog from moving forward by holding the lead still. No yanking, no words just calmly halting progress.

So for the trainers and behaviourists out there which operant conditioning quadrant are you using?

🤔

It’s something we often do without thinking but here’s what’s happening:

You’re removing something the dog wants: forward motion.

You’re doing it to reduce a behaviour: pulling or stepping into the road.

That’s Negative Punishment.

Even when it’s done calmly and kindly, if you’re removing access to reduce a behaviour, you’re in the Negative Punishment quadrant.

But change the setup, and the quadrant shifts:

Allow forward motion after the dog waits and it’s safe to walk across?

Positive Reinforcement – adding something good (continuing their walk!) to increase a behaviour.

Use lead pressure, jerking or applying tension when the dog pulls?

That could tip into Positive Punishment adding discomfort to reduce a behaviour.

And yes sometimes, Positive Punishment does happen and can be necessary.
If a dog suddenly goes to step into the road and a care is coming, you apply lead pressure to stop them, that’s a punisher and potentially a life-saving one!

But the real key? Set up for success so you rarely, if ever, need to use it.

Preemption, Anticipation, clear communication, and thoughtful handling make all the difference.

This is exactly why I talk about Rethinking Lead Walking because it’s never just about stopping pulling. It’s about understanding how every pause, movement, and moment shapes behaviour.

Let’s move beyond obedience and into understanding, communication, and cooperation on lead on both ends.

02/07/2025

Puppies on the Lead: Why It’s About So Much More Than Just Walking

Lead walking with a puppy isn’t just about movement it’s about emotions, development, and connection.

When we clip on that lead, we’re asking a young pup to explore a world that’s often loud, unpredictable, and overwhelming all while restricting their natural movement. That’s a big ask for a little dog who’s still learning what’s safe.

If your puppy stops, pulls away, sniffs a lot, or seems to muck about on walks it might not be a training problem. It could be their way of saying: “I’m not sure about this.”

We need to ask:
– Do they feel safe?
– Are we giving them space to process the world?
– Are we treating the lead as a connection, or just a tool to control?

Good lead walking starts long before you step outside with emotional safety, choice, and support. It’s about building confidence, not just teaching cues.

So instead of micromanaging every step, let’s help puppies feel secure, heard, and unhurried. That’s what creates calm, cooperative walking from the heart, not the heel ❤️

📸 I’d love to see a picture of your puppy even if they are all grown up let’s see those before and after pictures!

06/06/2025

How do you keep working with dogs at an enjoyable level when you’re in your fifties, sixties and beyond?

Let’s start with when you can get your state pension. If you go to the gov.uk website and follow the state pension calculator you will see what age and when you are able to start claiming your state pension. For me it’s aged 67 so in November 2030 the government starts to pay me, providing they don’t move the goal post again and put the age up. The pension amount paid to you depends on:

• if you were contracted out before 2016
• the number of National Insurance qualifying years you have
• if you paid into the Additional State Pension before 2016

Even though I have paid the maximum contributions I will only get £961.83 a month. Not enough for me to live on! If you have planned well and have paid into private pensions for years - well done you - you might have an extra sum of money coming to you every month when you finally retire. But is it enough to live on? It’s a question that we hardly want to ask ourselves and one that some of us seem to put off answering forever, feeling like ‘I will sort it out when the time comes’. But what if you can’t or don’t sort it out? What if, as a menopausal Dog Professional, you NEED to continue to work with dogs into your sixties and seventies to earn money just to live, never mind going on luxury holidays abroad or taking life at a slow, leisurely pace!

Of course, see an independent financial advisor, of course plan your money efficiently - that goes without saying. But what if you still need to work as a Dog Groomer, a Dog Trainer, a Vet, a Hydrotherapist? What if you’ve planned an amazing retirement and want to continue competing with your dog at agility or obedience? Could you? Are you well enough? Fit enough? Both mentally and physically? Is your menopause stopping you from being your best self?

Your body and mind are a bit like a bank savings account. The more you put into it, the more interest you get, the better and more capable you feel. The earlier you start, the more money you save and the more able you will be to work with dogs as you age. Being a menopausal Dog Pro can be hard, hard work and from the comments I see on social media, women of our age are having a tough time with things like anxiety, low mood, weight gain around their tummy and brain fog to name a few! That coupled with caring for aging parents, dealing with stroppy teenagers, or kids in their twenties anxiously trying to find their way in life, working full time with dogs can feel unbelievably pressurised at times. But what if we stopped for a moment? What if we had someone to guide us out of the fog and chaos? What if we became that strong, defiant, sassy, sexy healthy woman we all want to be that deals with all of the stresses and strains of life well - because that’s life, and that’s what it throws you sometimes. I’ve been there. I was Widowed at 42, my mum passed away when I was 43, I raised a child on my own who was diagnosed with ADHD at the age of 7 and I ran several dog businesses during that time. Some successful, some not. For a long time I was not only in survival mode but was battling severe perimenopausal and menopause symptoms and the doctors refused to believe me, refused to give me the correct treatment and prescribed antidepressants and conducted a barrage of worrying unnecessary tests for absolutely no reason for years instead. I spent so much of my time in my forties and fifties researching treatments for menopause, finding the best foods to eat at our time of life (and no it’s not starving yourself to a size 6), finding the best exercise to do at this time of life (that’s not pounding the pavements or the treadmill by the way) and making sure I learnt how to deal with the stresses in life, because, after all, you can’t get to this age without having something fairly awful and stressful to deal with at some point. As the saying goes; it’s not what happens to you, it’s how you handle it. I now help women in my profession by coaching them to come out of the darkness and into the light with their passion for dogs beside them. I’m not pretending to have everything figured out - who does? But I live my life with passion, purpose and a healthy vibe and I want the same for every woman Dog Pro out there too. All of us deserve a helping hand now and again from someone who has been there and worn the T-shirt so to speak. For all the beautiful, intelligent women that helped me along the way, I thank you from the bottom of my heart. You’re amazing!

Menopause and the Dog Professional. Helping menopausal women continue to do the job they love for as long as they want and earn more money.
Email: [email protected].

28/05/2025

The showing their belly image is often the one bit of body language that is so misunderstood, with people thinking it means stroke my belly when a high percentage of the time it’s more about not wanting conflict and trying to get space. This is why I think that dog body language should be taught in school to help prevent dog bites.

Body language all depends on the dog and the context. Licks, jumping, belly rubs can be ways to both increase and decrease distance, your dog inviting you for more contact.

With our own dogs, we can stay curious and experiment. Only we know them best. For dogs that don’t know us as well, we can take note and move with more caution.

Often bites happen during these confusing signals, when dogs are misread. It doesn’t mean your dogs love means go away but that we can gain the knowledge to open up conversations with every furry friend.

Still confused? My body language bundle is just $1 and includes breakdowns of these more confusing behaviours. Comment 🐶 and I’ll DM you the link.

27/05/2025

When someone with ADHD acts impulsively, it’s not that they’ve thought it through and decided to ignore the rules the behaviour happens without forethought.

Now consider this from a dog’s perspective. Dogs don’t plan ahead like humans. Much of their behaviour barking, lunging, grabbing, chasing is instinctive and emotionally driven. Like impulsive actions in ADHD, these reactions aren’t the result of deliberate ‘bad choices’ but of immediate responses to their environment.