Private training & behaviour programmes for both dogs & puppies, using positive and modern methods Hi, I’m Jo. I’m here to help you understand your dog.
I’m a passionate dog trainer and behaviourist who wants to help you find the fun and joy in being a dog parent. I’ll guide you through laying solid foundations so that you and your dog can handle whatever life throws at you with confidence. I also help dog trainers nail the foundations of puppy training, taking your knowledge beyond basic training onto behaviour so that you can help more puppies a
nd owners with certainty. Areas Covered
South Ruislip, Ruislip, Hillingdon, Uxbridge, Ickenham, Hayes, Northolt, Ealing, Eastcote, Pinner, Harrow, Denham, Gerrards Cross, Chalfont St Peters, Northwood, Watford, Iver, Stoke Poges and more…
I may travel to any location within a 20-mile radius from South Ruislip to meet client needs. However, this may incur an additional fee to cover travel and extra travel time zoom sessions are available too.
03/10/2025
For those really organised people like me (yes I’m boringly organised 🤣) it’s time to think about an autumn or winter break this year and even your holiday for next year. Often we leave things until the last minute only to find that the places we really like are fully booked - both for your holiday and for your dog’s holiday too! We now have our 2026 diary and are taking bookings for next year so if you’re thinking about taking a well earned break, and want to go on holiday without worrying about your dog, drop me an email and I will send you some information to see if you think your dog will love it here. We’re based in Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire but to be honest we have people that travel for miles to leave their dog with us, and the fact that we are only 30 minutes from Heathrow Airport, makes dropping your dog off before you fly and collecting at the end of the holiday easy peasy! Go on… be boringly organised and book your holiday (and one for your dog!) so that you have something to look forward to. 🐾🐾🐾🐾
Working with some incredible trainers, behaviourists, zoo keepers and of course the most amazing teacher and coach Jo Mason from Educating Animals
The work we were doing was about improving welfare. It’s about trying to reduce stress or the need to put animals under anaesthetic, with all the risks that come with that, and creating handling and safety routines that protect both animals and keepers.
By using consent-based training and handling it reduces the need for netting, darting, or forcing animals into cooperation all of which increase stress and fear. Procedures become calm, cooperative experiences that support welfare, safety, and trust.
In the videos below you will see we are doing station training with the goats, asking them to go to a place which is useful for when keepers enter or exit the environment or for routine care treatments and we also worked on targeting with the Cuban Crocodiles, Giant Tortoises and the Marabou Storks which helps if there is a need to move them from one part of their habitat to the other.
There’s so much we can learn from this for our own companion animals. Dogs can sometimes appear very tolerant in certain situations but it’s worth asking, is that genuine cooperation, or simply compliance? Consent based handling changes this dynamic. When dogs are given choice and the chance to opt out, they often choose to continue, as their experiences have been positive. This not only builds trust but also helps them cope better when procedures must be carried out for their health, safety, or welfare, making them far more resilient in the long term.
Some excellent information to support this include:
- Sue Williams’ “Taking the Grr Out of Grooming”
- The Bucket Game from Chirag Patel
- Deb Jones’ Cooperative Care Facebook Group
There is also theDog Friendly Clinic Scheme (Dogs Trust + BVBA): Find vets and veterinary nurses trained in reducing stress for dogs during veterinary visits bringing consent-based, cooperative handling into everyday veterinary care.
25/09/2025
It’s that time of year again!
22/09/2025
Looking forward to my week ahead I’m heading to Paignton Zoo for an animal training workshop that starts tomorrow. This will be my third year attending, and it’s something I really value both personally and professionally.
I know zoos can raise questions about ethics and I’ve often had those concerns myself and if I am honest I still am in conflict. However, what makes this workshop so important to me is that the whole programme is built around animal welfare. The training isn’t about tricks or entertainment it’s about cooperative care.
That means:
🐾 Teaching animals to willingly take part in their own care (like presenting a limb, opening their mouths, or standing calmly for injections).
🐾 Reducing the need for sedation or darting during routine treatments.
🐾 Minimising stress from capturing or restraining.
🐾 Supporting the animals’ wellbeing by keeping their stress levels stable and their care more predictable.
Another part I love about these workshops is that with so many experienced dog and animal trainers involved, the cooperative care training can be accelerated. The zookeepers themselves are qualified in training too, but because their main role is day-to-day husbandry and animal care, having additional trainers helps take some of the pressure off them while still ensuring the animals get the very best support.
The workshop is run by the brilliant Jim Mackie and Jo Mason and it’s always such a valuable opportunity to refine my own skills for continued professional development. Not only does it support the animals at the zoo, but I also take these principles straight back into my work with dogs and other animals helping companion animals feel more comfortable, safe, and cooperative in their everyday care.
This is why I’m passionate about what I do ,training that supports welfare, reduces stress, and makes life better for animals.
Here’s a little video from last year‘s workshop where I was training a Lemur to be comfortable with a stethoscope.
11/09/2025
In group settings, some dogs naturally fall unto the role of mediator. These are the dogs who step in when arousal runs too high, trying to keep things calmer and safer for everyone. They often look like the “fun police”, breaking up the party.
Sadly, they are often misunderstood. Instead of being recognised for their role, they are seen as disruptive and may even be asked to leave day care or a dog walking group. But what looks like “problem behaviour” can actually be a dog working hard to regulate the group.
My latest article is now out in Dogs Today Magazine issue 372 Are you misinterpreting your dog’s fear
responses? Is your dog simply overexcited or
is he actually scared? Do you think he’s friendly
with strangers when he’s really uneasy? https://dogstodaymagazine.co.uk/product/dogs-today-magazine-issue-372/
04/09/2025
I always advise clients to take water out for their dogs whatever the weather. Some will say their dog doesn’t drink outside, but often it’s how the water is being offered that makes the difference.
Water is more than just hydration it supports learning. Stressed dogs often need to drink more, and a thirsty dog may refuse treats, which makes training harder.
Drinking is also a vulnerable position. With their head down, dogs need to feel safe. If their back is towards a potential threat, they may not relax enough to lower their guard and take a drink. I usually place a filled water dispenser on the floor and wait patiently in a spot where the dog feels comfortable. Rushing or pushing it towards them often puts them off and let’s face it, we humans are usually in a hurry.
It also helps if the dispenser is introduced at home first. If a dog won’t drink from it there, they’re unlikely to drink from it outside, especially if something new is suddenly thrust towards them. Always ensure the bowl or container is deep enough. Dogs don’t lap water like cats; they scoop it with the back of their tongue and flick it into their mouth, so shallow containers can make this harder and discourage them from drinking.
If you offer water by hand (like in the picture), hold it firmly and keep enough water in your hands so the dog can scoop it up properly. Avoid pouring water straight from a bottle into a dog’s mouth. Most dogs will rasp, cough, or even choke because the water goes in too quickly and doesn’t allow them to scoop it naturally. It can also feel stressful or unnatural, causing them to back away. Using a travel bowl, cupped hands, or a dog-specific bottle with a spout allows them to drink at their own pace safely.
Dogs may drink more after sniffing sessions, play, or stressful encounters, so these are ideal times to pause and offer water. Don’t wait until your dog is panting heavily or clearly thirsty small, regular sips keep them more comfortable.
Of course, some dogs can be fussy with water. It might taste too chlorinated, be too cold or too warm, or they may simply prefer the freshness of rainwater or the movement of flowing water. While these preferences are natural, safety is important. Drinking from puddles, ditches, or other stagnant water can expose dogs to bacteria, parasites, harmful chemicals, or toxic algae. If your dog does enjoy natural sources, try to stick to safe, flowing water such as streams, but wherever possible, offer your own clean, familiar supply to reduce the chance of them turning to unsafe alternatives.
Some behaviourists and vets also suggest that when dogs are drawn to puddles or stagnant water, it might be linked to the mineral content. Natural sources can contain trace elements like iron, magnesium, or calcium that aren’t always present in treated tap water so they could be lacking in these. That said, most well-fed dogs on a balanced diet won’t be lacking in essential minerals, so it’s can just be the smell, taste, or novelty that attracts them.
Making water readily available isn’t just about preventing dehydration it’s about supporting your dog’s comfort, confidence, and ability to learn. By offering it in the right way, at the right times, and from safe sources, you’re helping your dog feel secure enough to meet their needs and enjoy their time out with you. A little patience and preparation go a long way towards keeping walks calmer, training easier, and your dog healthier.
I’m proud to be a professional recognised for putting ethics, welfare, and transparency first.
Find force-free, welfare-led pet pros like me at 👉
Find the best dog service providers near you - FAST! The leading dog directory connecting you with vets, groomers, walkers, pet shops, trainers and more.
22/07/2025
This little beauty is Nelly the 🐾
I had the pleasure of working with Nelly on my For Pup’s Sake: Revelation programme. She was just 6 months old when we met an adorable little whirlwind with energy to spare!
Her caregivers reached out to me about a few challenges:
• Lead pulling
• Non-existent recall
• Jumping up and mouthing (especially when greeting people)
• General hyper behaviour
• Biting during excitement or overwhelm
When I first met Nelly, it was easy to see why things felt overwhelming. She’d often go into full-blown zoomies, which on the surface looked like excitement but were really I felt during assessment was her way of coping with uncertainty or stress. On walks, she’d either panic and try to bolt making walking near roads dangerous or frantically scavenge as a way I felt to self-soothe (this would always happen when she saw someone). Her body language didn’t scream fear, in the obvious way it was in the flirt/fawning/fool about response instead.
It’s common for care givers to tire breed types like her out but what Nelly needed wasn’t more, it was less. Less pressure. Less structure. Less expectation to be still. She didn’t need to be trained into rigid obedience she needed to move in a way that helped her feel safe and regulated.
So we ditched the tight heelwork, swapped to a longer lead, and focused on connection, curiosity, and relaxing which in turn led to her walking together with her care givers. She needed to process, not just power through. She found treats unrewarding on walks taking them in an obligatory way or avoiding when offered, treats can be seen negative when preventing escape or natural behaviours that they want or need.
We encouraged sniffing, pausing, observing. Rather than chasing toys repetitively, we channelled her natural breed behaviours flushing, finding, and light retrieving, while being mindful not to overdo it. I find at times these dogs can get stuck in a ‘working’ mode that’s hard to switch off so enrichment activities have to be thought out mindfully.
When we went to the field, the pattern had been to let her just run but Nelly wasn’t exploring she was zooming mindlessly, unable to relax frantic no exploring or sniffing not even in the quartering fashion her breed type can be known to do. So we slowed things right down. We stopped in small sections of the field encouraging her to explore the space, giving her permission to be rather than do.
She reminded me so much of my own son, who has ADHD and Autism. There’s not a lot of research on this in dogs, but I often wonder if dogs like Nelly experience the world in a similar way, are we changing their brain types through the way we breed. Do they have differences in their brain pathways too? Are they constantly moving because they need too?
In people with ADHD (myself included), the brain often struggles to regulate dopamine, a chemical that helps with focus, motivation, and emotional balance. Movement can help increase dopamine levels naturally, which is why so many people with ADHD feel the need to move in order to think, process, or feel calm. Sitting still isn’t just uncomfortable it can be mentally and physically distressing.
I saw that in Nelly. Her movement wasn’t always purposeful it was constant, chaotic, and sometimes frantic. But I think it was her way of coping. Just like my son sometimes needs to pace, fidget, or bounce to feel regulated, I believe dogs like Nelly need movement too not as a release of energy, but as a way to feel okay in their body.
Sleep and rest is still vital for brain function and this was a foreign concept in this girl she was always on the go. She slept well in the night but did not sleep or nap at all in the day so this was an area we focused on and she now take her self away to rest. It’s important for recovery.
We did focus on some relaxed behaviours and on play that filled her up instead of leaving her frazzled.
Much of our work was simply about strengthening the communication between everyone better understand what Nelly was trying to say through her behaviour.
She didn’t need fixing she just needed space to be herself, prevent rehearsal of behaviours when people came into the house and with support that matched her needs and training that focused on safety and arms not being pulled out of sockets!
It was a pleasure working with her and her amazing carer givers. ❤️
21/07/2025
Just thought I would share, these cooling mats have been highly recommended to me for a dog that would chew the other plastic types!
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11/07/2025
Great post by The Mutty Professor
HOT WEATHER & AN INCREASE IN BITE RISK 🥵
We've had some very hot weather recently in the UK, and for many parts of the UK- the next three days are going to be scorchio!
It's important to be aware that being too hot can lower thresholds for tolerance and overt reactions- and not just in 'reactive' dogs.
And not just in dogs!
There's a correlation between human riots and an increase in crime during a significant rise in temperature (27 to 32 degrees).
It is well established that in people, heat stress causes irritability and an increased likelihood of aggressive behaviour.
Being hot and bothered is a physical stressor - the body works hard to return to homeostasis.
Cognitive processes can be negatively affected. So if your dog is not responding to as they would normally, consider the effects of heat.
Furthermore- being too hot can interfere with a dog's ability to rest and sleep. During rest and sleep, stress is lowered, and subsequently compromised rest and sleep affects behaviour.
This can affect (lower) the dog's threshold for emotional stress.
🐕 Two unfamiliar dogs meeting while both are hot and bothered is less likely going to result in a healthy interaction. Now is the time to largely keep yourselves to yourselves on walks, or monitor the body language of both dogs very carefully.
🏡 Extra caution should be taken in situations that your dog may struggle with, such as around visitors to the home.
🧒 But the greatest caution of all should be taken around up-close interactions in ALL dogs, especially those who live children.
Remember these basic safeguarding rules;
1. No faces near faces.
2. Let sleeping dogs lie.
3. Do not forcefully take resources (toys, food or anything the dog has found/picked up) off a dog.
Children should never take things off a dog.
4. Do not 'box dogs in' with your interaction.
- Always ensure they can easily move away by not blocking a dog's ability to move forward/away (for example, wrapping your arms around to hug a dog front on makes it near impossible for them to easily disengage).
- The safest way to interact is to invite a dog to come to you.
Alternatively, if you do approach then do so when they are awake and instead of swooping straight in with strokes- wait for them to signal to you they are keen for an interaction.
- Stop stroking after 2-3 seconds, and see if your dog communicates to you they would like more, or if they are done.
This is called the consent test, and it's something all children (and adults) should be aware of.
Most people who get bitten by a dog know the dog well, didn't think their dog would ever bite someone and didn't see the bite coming.
Most dog bites are on faces and hands of someone close to the dog, and this tells us a lot about what the person was LIKELY doing (Note, there are always exceptions).
As I always say to my clients ......
🗣️ Never take your dog's current level of tolerance for granted.
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Send a message to Jo Hinds - Dog Trainer & Pet Behaviour Advisor:
Joanne is fully qualified Professional Dog Trainer APDT UK, Certified COAPE Animal Behaviourist DipCABT (QCF Level 4) and published author who uses modern, positive, science based training methods and she does not use or condone any aversive techniques, which include the use of choke chains, any other devices or handling methods that cause discomfort or distress in cats and dogs. She takes pride in making her training sessions fun and educational putting you as an owner and your pets needs first. She is here to help you develop the relationship you have with your canine and feline companions and help you understand why they do what they do.
Joanne sees private behaviour cases involving dogs and cats on vet referral, as well as providing advice sessions for newly rescued dogs and also specialises in street dogs. She also offers private one to one training, private puppy/kitten advice sessions and courses to get owners off to the right start to prevent behaviour problems in the future.
Joanne Hinds is a modern dog trainer and pet behaviour advisor based in South Ruislip, Middlesex. She started her career working at Bellmead Kennels and Cattery Training College where she obtained a Diploma and NVQ Level 2 in small animal care, continuing her training with COAPE (Centre of Applied Pet Ethology) for an Advanced Diploma in Companion Animal Behaviour and Training. Joanne is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, MAPDT 01095 and attends many seminars, courses and workshops to keep her skills and knowledge up to date. Joanne has over 18 years experience in the Canine and Feline World. Joanne Hinds is also a published author see her latest children’s books here.
Joanne covers South Ruislip and the surrounding local areas including Ruislip, Hillingdon, Uxbridge, Ickenham, Hayes, Northolt, Ealing, Eastcote, Pinner, Harrow, Denham, Gerrards Cross, Chalfont St Peters, Northwood, Watford, Iver, Stoke Poges and more… She may travel to any location further than the aforementioned 20 mile radius from South Ruislip, to meet client needs, however this may incur an additional fee.
Telephone/Virtual (Video Call) Sessions are available no matter where you are based in the world!
