Canine Consultant

Canine Consultant Canine Consultant - Training smarter, not harder! Worcester based dog training & behaviour services.
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Helping owners to live with and enjoy their dogs in a force free, positive way.

Asking The Impossible?...It seems a really simple, basic thing - stay home whilst we're out doing boring chores, going t...
28/08/2023

Asking The Impossible?...

It seems a really simple, basic thing - stay home whilst we're out doing boring chores, going to work, trips to the shop - the necessary outings that are not particularly dog friendly. Stay here in this safe, warm building , that has all you need, whilst we're gone.

Unfortunately, what we are asking of our dogs is an enormous task, particularly for puppies.

To understand why, we need to look at the evolution of dogs - sit tight, this is a bit of a ride!

Dogs were not domesticated by us...

We have of course, selectively bred dogs for our own purposes for centuries, but unlike cattle, sheep, horses, donkeys... dogs began that process themselves. They chose to hang around near us, they found our wasteful ways beneficial - we were a source of food!

130'000 years ago, or thereabouts, the prototype dog split from the common ancestor they share with the modern gray wolf. Despite the still popular belief that we domesticated dogs by taking gray wolf cubs and keeping them captive (try it, what you get is a confused gray wolf that will eventually be a risk to you and everyone else around you!), the truth is, dogs and gray wolves had a common ancestor.

Dog became dog by ... not being wolf. By wanting to be with people, near people, by being unafraid of people.

Wolf... remained wolf by being the exact opposite of this - scared of people, avoiding people, wanting nothing to do with people.

That desire to be with people is everything. It allowed us to selectively breed, accidentally at first - driving away or killing animals that were bitey, providing more food for animals who had a cute loppy ear or a lighter colour or a cute marking in their coat (and as Belyaevs foxes demonstrate - selecting for human friendly/non aggressive to humans also causes physiological changes in coat colour, patterning and ear set!)...

I doubt these early proto-dogs had issues with separation anxiety - they were not shut in our homes, they were free to follow or not, and there was always someone around so they had choices.

Our modern dogs don't live this life though.

We have intensively, selectively bred our dogs to not only want to be with us, but in some cases to hang off our every word, to default decision making to us, to work with us. We've bred them to want physical contact with us, to be our close working colleagues and companions.

A major change between wild canids (and that includes the feral street dogs, wolves, painted dogs and more) and our domestic dogs, is how they raise their young.

Puppies/cubs are with their mother until 3 weeks, and she will be brought food by the rest of the group. From then they will be left for short periods but checked regularly and are of course with their litter mates. They will feed from Mum and the ratio of milk to regurgitated meat gradually shifts until at around 8 weeks they are just eating regurgitated meat.

From 8 weeks onwards, for the next 3 months or so, they will get regurgitated meat from Mum and helpful Aunties and Uncles, and any bits and bobs they are cheeky enough to scrounge/beg/pinch from the social group (that begging behaviour your puppy does at meal times... and licking your mouth. Yup!).

So for the first 4+ months, a wild puppy of any sort is continually with litter mates, Mum, Aunties, Uncles, and being actively cared for by their own species.

After that they will venture further with the group, practice hunting and killing and scavenging... but they will not leave that family or social group, and will not be alone, where they have no choice but to be isolated from everyone, ever...

Until adolescence! At around a year old, some juveniles may leave the group. Typically young males and more likely not solo but with a brother or two. Very occasionally (and more likely seen in feral dogs than truly wild species) they will be shunned by the group due to unpleasant behaviour (violent, over the top bullying or intimidating behaviour). Death rates for loners and 'bachelor' pairs are very high!

Even if we look at species well known for solitary adults - tigers, cheetahs, jaguars - they don't strike out on their own until well on their way to adulthood at around 2 years of age!

No wild canid chooses to leave their own kind and fend for themselves entirely alone prior to this point, and very few do after it. To do so is really risky and dangerous - even tiny puppies know this!

In comparison, domestic dog:

Weans puppies off milk completely from as early as 3 weeks (by choice!)

Abdicates responsiblility for their young to another species (us!)

That's not natural. That is something we have bred in - unfortunately what we have not bred in is any capability to be alone - because up until probably 30 years ago, we didn't need it! Dogs were with us, working, or if we were too busy to be with a dog, we did not have one.

We've inserted ourselves into dogs lives as a primary care giver - we've altered early maternal behaviour to allow for this, but done absolutely nothing to equip puppies to cope with being alone any earlier than their wild counterparts.

What does this mean for our pet puppies?

Well firstly, it means they can't manage alone reliably, repeatedly, for useful time periods. Not at 8 weeks, 10 weeks, 26 weeks... Certainly not 2 days after you collect from the breeder and need to go back to work!

Some may stay quiet and sleep when alone (as wild puppies will when Mum pops out to hunt or toilet), but we cannot rely on that, particularly once the puppies are separated from their litter mates. Even if they did - the first year of life is the most optimal phase for learning - if they're alone, you aren't teaching them and what they are learning is unlikely to be anything you're keen on!

We should not be expecting our puppies to sleep alone or be alone during the day until after the start of adolescence - and adolescence is the point at which they can start really building those skills. Do not assume that adolescence is when they magically become independent and able to cope... don't forget the other elements we've selectively bred in.

We've created animals who are dependent on us for instruction and guidance - we have also trapped them in our homes and taken away all their choices. That's not necessarily a bad thing - the choices my dogs would make given the opportunity would often amount to Absolute Bastardry - but it is a fact.

When we leave them, we are likely to see distress, anxiety, frustration and even panic.

Not simply because they are alone, but because they do not know what to do with themselves - they don't know how to make choices or decisions, they were not built for that.

For those of you with companion breeds or working breeds developed to work very closely with human instruction, that goes triple!

Having interfered with dog to the point that they trust us to replace their own species as primary care givers, it is us to step up and fulfill that role properly - not half arse it because its too much effort or too big a sacrifice - you have a choice, nobody forced you to get a puppy!

So what can you do?

Don't leave your puppy alone - use sitters, daycares, friends, family and reschedule your life for the next year or two to account for this.

Build security by being there and providing comfort and contact

Let your puppy sleep with you until housetrained and steady enough to be given free access between where you sleep and where you want them to sleep (so they can access you if they need to in an emergency)

Let your puppy follow you around - this helps them learn that you do boring things, that there is not a portal to another realm in the bathroom, that you're not secretly snacking or playing with puppy toys in another room.

Play games, train, build confidence - this is your foundation for everything else.

Socialise and habituate your puppy properly - this includes hanging out doing boring stuff with them present.

Have realistic expectations of the abilities of this baby animal you have chosen to raise - it takes the average human 3 years to toilet train and 18 to 20 years to live independently from the primary care giver. It will take your puppy 9 months to toilet train and they'll have passed from old age before your kid leaves home!

©Emma Judson 2023 - feel free to share in it's entirety. Do not edit, crop or amend this text.

(For the link - check comments. Best shared from the original link as FB has removed all the bullet points and bolding! And probably some of the spacing!)

It's about time the Flitting Game got a bit of a tidy up - bits of it are floating around the internet that are edited o...
20/08/2023

It's about time the Flitting Game got a bit of a tidy up - bits of it are floating around the internet that are edited or uncredited, so here we go... (Blog link in the comments).

"The Flitting Game is something I came up with (following much discussion with another trainer, Jo Law) back in the late 1990s/early 2000s - wow, I feel old! I actually don't know when but I was certainly posting about it on various forums almost 20 years ago! *fetches the zimmer frame*

Since then it seems to have trundled round the internet all by itself, without me really noticing. Unfortunately as is often the case, bits of it have fallen off and got lost along the way - much to my surprise I discovered a Mumsnet post, stating boldly that the Flitting Game is NOT for dogs with separation anxiety!

How strange... as thats exactly who it is for - but, it would seem some of the details and caveats, some of the nuance and subtlety has been... mislaid. I also notice lots of trainers sharing it (great! Please do, but credit me eh ;) ) but again, in a somewhat reductive version which in some cases may lead to it being used incorrectly.

So here we go: Shinied Up, All the Deets... Flitting Game!

Who is this for:

Adult dogs who follow owners around like a furry shadow.
Older puppies who we are assessing to see if they're ready for further training on being left alone.

Who is this not for:

Extremely stressed new rescue dogs.
Tiny brand new puppies around the 8 to 14 weeks stage
Dogs who still need to learn that home is a safe, secure place (ie are over threshold in their own home).
Caveat: As with any behaviour modification, start out slowly, observe your dog. If it appears a game, method, tactic, plan... is sensitizing rather than de-sensitizing - STOP! This may be something your dog is not ready for now, but will be ready for later, or it maybe that this is not suitable for your dog or home layout. Also, re-read this, because of course if you're doing it wrong... it's not going to work!

What is the purpose of Flitting?

Many dogs follow us around, because they are worried we will leave, and/or because they don't know what we're doing when we are out of the room/gone/unavailable. Some will also do it because they have an expectation of reward (for example, if you go to the kitchen to make a cup of tea, is there a biscuit in the offing too?).

To help dogs cope without us, it's a good idea to encourage them to choose to stay by themselves at times - that choice, whilst carefully engineered by us to be the one we want them to make, has to be informed by something or its not really a choice.
So for example, if we give a dog with a big juicy bone and then leave the room - is the dog choosing to stay because they know following is boring, or are they distracted/overshadowed by the presence of the bone? We don't really have a way of knowing!

So first we want our dog to learn that following won't be rewarded by us (caveat, it may be inherently rewarding for some dogs, the 'lifes natural optimists' and the types that simply adore being were we are, I'll come back to them later!), and may in fact be tedious, verging on irritating.

Then we will occasionally introduce a significantly better option, to build a history of reinforcement in making the choice to not follow.

Stage 1: Following You Is Boring...

Pick 2 rooms, adjacent or nearby, not upstairs/downstairs and if at all possible, not the kitchen but, many people will have no choice but to use the kitchen (it's typically associated with food so if you can avoid using it in stage one, please do).

When your dog is settled, set yourself a timer (silent!) on your phone and for 3 to 5 minutes, 'flit' between the two rooms. Move to the second room, linger for a few seconds, move back, sit briefly, repeat.

Aim to spend a little longer in the 'start' room, where your dog is resting, than in the other room, and find something to fiddle with or break a simple task down into multiple stages - a cup of tea is a good choice. This is because simply moving to another room and then standing there like a lemon looks weird even to the daftest of dogs, and we don't want to sensitize or wind up your dog!

'Ignore' your dog - pretend you are ignoring your dog - if your dog needs a p*e or has some sort of drama, casually stop the flitting as if this were your choice all along, and deal with your dogs needs, this is not a military operation!

Sneakily, watch what your dog does - initially they are likely to follow, that is fine, as your dog can't learn it is boring to follow you if he can't follow you to find this out!

Move off after a few seconds (this is not about building a duration of absence yet!), or as your dog settles into a sit or down, whichever happens soonest.

Over the course of a few sessions, you should find your dog exhibits some, or all, of the following behaviours:

Huffing or slow to get up

Lingering in doorways

Side-eye as they get up 'what, really?'

Slow to follow once up

If you have these signs, your dog is starting to figure out that following you in this context is boring.

If you still have a dog who bounces up and dashes to the room you're going to or is glued to your side, OR you find your dog is exhibiting signs of stress, for example more inclined to be barky, sleep quality drops, behaviour on the lead suffers, more chewy... then stop, theres likely something else that needs addressing and you can come back to flitting at another time, OR, your dog is not one for whom flitting will work as they're inherently reinforced by simply coming with you.

Assuming you now have a dog who rolls her eyes when it becomes clear you're flitting, not genuinely going somewhere, and either lingers in doorways or doesn't follow at all - you can move to Stage Two!

Stage 2: Not Following Might Pay Off...

Continue doing the standard Stage One sessions - but now, occasionally begin just after giving your dog a really big bone or a large filled food dispensing toy - something sufficiently nice and also awkward to carry around. If your dog DOES try to lug the bone around to follow you, again, stop and either pause the whole concept for a bit, or go back to Stage One. Dragging the bone with indicates some level of anxiety - either in you not being there (less likely) or that the bone may be LOST/TAKEN (more likely). So these issues need addressing first.

Hopefully you now have a dog who knows you're Flitting, and chooses to stay put to eat the bone OR if there is no bone, chooses to stay put because you leaving the room is not an exciting event.

Proofing/Expanding/Adding Criteria:

So far you have likely been working between living spaces/kitchen - so now add in either:

Longer times out of the room:

OR

New rooms to go to.

Any new addition or change to the routine should be the easiest one possible, and you should change one element at a time.

So you may go and sit on the bottom of the stairs, or you may go living room to kitchen, rather than living room to dining room, and make the time short and easy. You may decide to stick with living room to dining room, but increase the time. You would not change rooms AND increase duration though!

Have a good think about which locations in your home will be easiest for your dog, external doors (particularly the door your dog goes out through for a walk!) and upstairs tend to be harder than say, living room to back garden.

What next?

Once you have a dog who understands following is not reinforcing, you can add this in to other concepts/protocols you may be working on to address separation related problems.

You can morph a flitting routine into desensitizing to touching doors, fiddling with keys, putting on shoes/coat etc.

This is just one game or tool, from a range of things you may need to do to help your dog with aspects of separation from you. It is not the whole story, nor is it a magic wand, it is simply a way to incorporate desensitization to you moving around your home, into real life.

What about puppies?

Puppies, being brand new to the world, need to be allowed to follow you around wherever possible, to learn about what you do around the house. Shutting puppies away builds frustration, and they have no capacity to cope with being alone so that can also cause distress. Until a dog has some understanding of daily household life and the novelty value of simply living with you has worn off a bit, Flitting can simply wind up or sensitize them.

The same applies to new rescue dogs - they need to be with you, bond with you, find security with you and in your home, so Flitting may not be right for them for a while.

It's also not suitable for a dog who is not yet toilet trained, or who is in a phase of chewing/destroying stuff for fun, as the game requires freedom to move around.

What if it doesn't work?

If this doesn't suit your dog, or your home, your dog may not yet be ready for this, or you may need to start desenitizing them at a much lower level - for example, you might need to run through simply standing up and sitting down again, doing several repetitions over a short session, and several sessions a week, until you can stand up and move without them leaping up.

Take into account anything else you are dealing with/your dog is dealing with before attempting any behaviour modification. If you're also working on lead reactivity, chewing, barking, fear of specific things or your dog is recovering from illness or injury, or they have pain ongoing - it is not kind, fair or effective to work on everything all at once!

It may be useful to occasionally test a new dog or a puppy with a short Flitting session, not to train or modify behaviour, but simply to see where they are 'at' currently. Bear in mind that puppy progress comes and goes, so what a puppy is ready for today, may not be suitable next week - meet their needs where they are now!

©Emma Judson - 2023 (Flitting since at least 2008!)
Please feel free to share this content in its entirety only, with credit to Emma Judson. Do not trim, edit or amend!"

Time for a ponder... Punishment!I discovered recently that a FB group I use has punished me for ... something. I can't p...
30/06/2023

Time for a ponder... Punishment!

I discovered recently that a FB group I use has punished me for ... something.

I can't post on the group until later today. Though this has been going on for several weeks, I just saw posts from the group that say 'admin turned off comments on this' and didn't actually realise this was just for me until yesterday.

Obviously they have muted/whatever'ed me for some reason, I really don't know when.

Now, from their point of view - I can't do the wrong thing, the bad thing, for the duration of the punishment. You could equate that to managing behaviour, which isn't a bad idea.

It might cause me to strop off and leave the group which again, may not be a bad thing if I am a continual wrong-thing doer.

So it's 'working' from their point of view.

But from my point of view...

I only noticed a couple of days ago - I usually just see posts in my timeline and not via going to the group itself, so I did not see the wee header telling me I can't post until x date, x time.

Whilst I did notice I couldn't post, as my FB use is intermittent and the posts I was seeing were already hours old, not brand new, I did not even suspect it was specific to me.

And finally, and most importantly - I have absolutely no idea what it was I did wrong. I can guess I probably used a word that triggered their moderation filter - some groups have quite a lot and some of the words on them may be every-day normal words, not profanity (though I am sweary and can't promise I didn't do that!).

I do not know though, so it is very difficult to alter my behaviour in future, this punishment from my perspective, this consequence for some unwanted behaviour from me... is not very useful. I am not learning much from it.

What I am feeling is also not very productive - quite 'f**k you, didn't want to be in your group anyway' in fact (though again if it stops the unwanted behaviour, they may not care how I feel. They may even like the idea of me being annoyed, we humans are funny buggers!).

So - how does this relate to dogs.

They experience much of the same emotions and learn in the same ways that we do.

I don't base my training on punishment because, no matter how mild, and lets face it, not being able to post in a FB group is pretty mild, no one hurt me! - it isn't very effective.

The timing has to be perfect. The subject needs to accurately link the consequence with the behaviour that caused it!

But even if those things apply... if the subject doesn't know what behaviour IS desired, then the chances are high that they will fail again.

The group in question use this method of punishing people because it works for them - and thats fine, I manage groups where we can mute and ban, I have muted and so on...

But here, it doesn't matter to the admin if I no longer like them or want to use their group. They have no real relationship with me and won't be affected if I choose to leave.

Our dogs on the other hand... well we should care about the relationship we have with them, we should care if they want to be with us, that they like and trust us.

So even if our timing is great, our dog understands what caused the punishment... theres a strong chance punishment feels icky, and damages relationships for the recipient - there is also a strong chance that the punisher does not realise this. After all if something 'works'... it reinforces the punisher to do it again.

Slippery slope.

I am off to leave a group that, having not been able to comment on for at least a fortnight, I now realise I don't need to be in. Hehehe.

https://www.channel4.com/programmes/the-dog-academyIn the interests of balance, as I have in the past reviewed other TV ...
02/04/2023

https://www.channel4.com/programmes/the-dog-academy

In the interests of balance, as I have in the past reviewed other TV dog training shows... Episode 1 of The Dog Academy!

The show is a nice set up - we see some teasers and info about each dog and their family, and they're matched with a pair of trainers (that sounds like footwear, *giggle*) who will help them address the issues they're experiencing.

Then the owners and dog come into the venue and are observed on camera with their dog in a new environment - I really like this, having the trainers assess without being present gives them lots of information on top of the history and video footage they'll have already seen.

The first case is a poodle x - he mouths and bites inappropriately, appears to resource guard and theres a huge disconnect between the owners, and between one owner and dog.

I love here how Victoria makes it very clear that it is not in fact the dogs 'Dad', who listens to his dog, understands he is still a baby etc etc, who is the issue. It is 'Mum', who is far too harsh, shouting and punishing and who has failed to make a strong connection, who is the main problem (that and of course they have a very clever, strong and intelligent dog who needs far far more to do as well as less shouting and conflict and owners who are on the same page).

The mouthing is discussed, why he does it and how to address it, and some emphasis put on how dangerous this is, because whilst it was just attention seeking and inappropriate - it would not be viewed like that should he do it to a child or a member of the public!

I really love the discussion on scenting and sniffing as a way to get a dogs focus down on the ground, brain re-engaged and build a better bond with the owner.

It was also made clear that there would be much more work to do at home, it wouldn't be an overnight fix, and I hope it came across to the public that actually that work would be fun for the most part, rather than difficult and boring!

The second case was a reactive Chihuahua - and a very different relationship between the dog and the people here. Both owners (Mum and Son) clearly adore their dogs and would move mountains for them, but Mum hadn't realised her own anxieties were affecting her dog.

Loved the use of a stooge and making it clear that the dog required distance, space to chill and high value rewards to build a positive association with the other dog.

Again it came across loud and clear that relationship matters - that how you behave will affect how your dog behaves and you'll have to alter your own behaviour to change your dogs behaviour.

Huge focus on the dogs needs, how the dog is thinking and processing, meeting those needs appropriately and consistency between owners.

Being brutally honest - I would like to see more training, I would like to see discussion of (or text disclaimer) veterinary checks before attempting to fix behaviour problems, and clearer indications of how long it will take once they get home... however these are not criticisms of the trainers involved. They are unfortunately part of the issue inherent in all TV shows -you can't ram it full of the boring details if you want an engaging TV program people will actually watch, and whilst I find watching training highly enjoyable, the public tends to find the human element, the back story, the bloopers and the 'drama' moments much more entertaining.

All in all it was a great show, I can't wait to watch the rest of the series and would highly recommend to dog owners!

School's in session as expert trainers take on some of the nation's naughtiest dogs

https://www.thecanineconsultants.co.uk/post/begin-at-the-beginning“Begin at the beginning," the King said, very gravely,...
09/08/2022

https://www.thecanineconsultants.co.uk/post/begin-at-the-beginning

“Begin at the beginning," the King said, very gravely, "and go on till you come to the end: then stop.”

I realise this sounds bleedin’ obvious, but this really is the case and it is why so many attempts at training and behaviour modification fail. Because even if you get your technique right, if you are consistent, if you understand what is driving the behaviour you don’t like, and why your method works… if you start in the middle it just won’t work!"

‘We’ve tried everything… nothing works’… Boy if I’d had a quid for every time someone said this to me… I’d be writing this from a luxury yacht somewhere sunny where the sea sparkles an impossible blue… where was I again… Ah yes. No you haven’t. When people tell me they’ve tri...

Ello everyone.... in case you've been busy doing other things, distracted by shiny stuff, living under a rock...(which m...
13/05/2022

Ello everyone.... in case you've been busy doing other things, distracted by shiny stuff, living under a rock...(which may be absolutely lovely, I do not judge!)...

I DONE A BOOK.. ok, I got chased, harried, threatened, cajoled, begged, shouted at... by my co-writers, to illustrate and write and tidy up my bits.. of a book that we have all done!

You can buy this book, I'd like it if you did, you can buy it, keep it, read it, give it to a friend, donate it to rescue, there's a wealth of possibilities really!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09ZCL5PN9/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0

In other news.. it's Friday - I haven't got any. I'll do a blog soon but right now I've run out of words (they're all in the book see!)

https://www.thecanineconsultants.co.uk/post/oh-no-my-puppy-is-clingyI may have mentioned this topic before but, yep, thi...
04/03/2022

https://www.thecanineconsultants.co.uk/post/oh-no-my-puppy-is-clingy

I may have mentioned this topic before but, yep, this is the hill I will die on. Share it far and wide :)

Have you worried about this? Is this something you've heard, that you must be careful not to 'make' your puppy 'clingy'? I have earth shattering news for you my friend. Puppies should be clingy. It is normal for them. Puppies are split from their litter mates and Mum long before their wild or feral....

This is SO important.Pain causes all manner of odd behaviours, there is no way to fix the behaviour that is rooted in pa...
26/01/2022

This is SO important.

Pain causes all manner of odd behaviours, there is no way to fix the behaviour that is rooted in pain, without addressing the pain first.

I am always looking to see if pain is the reason for behaviour - sometimes I'll ask outright for videos of your dog moving, sometimes I will suggest you go back to your vet first, if I think there's pain, I will say so.

I've had a few cases where resolving pain was key to resolving the issue - owners often feel really bad that they've not noticed that their dog is in pain, but please, please don't.

One of my cases the dog was a rescue, had been passed by a vet as fine, they had never known the dog any other way - and yet I suspected they were lame on both front legs and this was contributory to a 'will go upstairs, refuses to come back down/get off the bed/get off the sofa' issue.

Pain meds and understanding the real issue rather than assuming 'he/she is being stubborn' resolved the problem, along with a little bit of training. Without treating the pain though, we'd have achieved nothing.

Dogs are incredibly good at hiding pain sometimes and it can creep up slowly, it can look like something else, it can look super weird or as I say, you may never have known the dog any other way.

Please keep it in mind, ask your vet and remember, some types of pain are hard to diagnose, your vet may be the best vet in the WORLD, but he or she cannot see transient pain that isn't happening there and then, they can't easily see a shortness of stride in a tense dog in a tiny consultation room, there are lots of sources of pain that are not an immediate spot.

You as the owner are best placed to spot it, video it, and document it, and speak to your vet, but you can't do that if you don't know it is even possible.

I've ranted about this particular tv trainer several times, I won't waste my time or yours doing so again - know better, do better, be better :)

2024 update -

This post was made two years ago and has recently been getting attention again. The sad thing is that actually nothing has changed. This program is still being made. There is ( as far as I know - and very happy to be corrected if I am wrong) no veterinary involvement with these dogs prior to filming.

How many more dogs are going to be labled as awkward, difficult, stubborn or just lazy when actually there is an underlying pain issue?

We have so many wonderful trainers and behaviourists that could fill this man’s shoes and provide far more valuable advice and training. Stop giving people like this man air time… pick someone who actually cares about the wellbeing of the dogs they work with instead of the cash going to line their pockets…

-

Some phrases used on this particular episode of ‘Dogs behaving (very) badly’ where 8 year old Ruby would only get off the sofa if the rug was over the laminate flooring, and would sit down and stop on walks…

‘being a madam’

‘Controlling the diva’

‘Indulging her with rugs’

‘Thinks she’s in charge’

OR

Is this actually a dog in pain, a dog scared of slipping and hurting, a dog trying to tell everyone that she’s uncomfortable?

It’s not indulging her with a rug, it’s making sure her own home is accessible and safe for her. She’s not ‘being a diva’ and refusing to walk, she’s telling you it hurts and she’s uncomfortable.

I’m very glad that the owners realise that this dogs weight is having a significant impact on her life but there are other things that need addressing here. I have no doubt they absolutely adore their girl, that is very clear to see, but I desperately wish they had the right kind of support for Ruby, not just let’s force her to walk and walk on a floor she’s is scared

Dogs Behaving Very Badly and The Dogfather (Graham Hall)… I’m afraid the blame falls to you on this occasion. You have a massive platform with thousands of dog owners watching every episode. How about talking about signs of pain? Indicators of discomfort? When behaviours actually tell us somethings wrong? Ways to adapt houses for older dogs and those that struggle with mobility? You could educate SO MANY owners but no, it doesn’t happen. Instead we just see an uncomfortable dog being forced to walk when she doesn’t want to, and live in an environment that she is scared of.

Dogs need us to advocate for them, to realise when we need to do more and to learn the ways that they tell us something isn’t right. Owner education is the key to this and this could have been a brilliant opportunity to do just that.

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