Queen of Hooves Equine Podiatry

Queen of Hooves Equine Podiatry Equine Podiatrist in Cornwall. Trained with Areion Academy.

13/03/2025

What a fantastic evening I've had! Hoping everyone who came enjoyed themselves.

Look out for info on the next one!

12/03/2025

This week’s Winter Wednesday is all about preparing for Spring!

Have you been having the lovely sunshine that we have in Cornwall? It’s been a real taste of what’s to come!

The grass has started growing in my field, and I’m already thinking about how I’m going to reduce the access to that nice fresh grass. Most of my herd are natives ergo extremely good doers. They live on a grass track all year round with access to forage at all times.

I’ve just purchased some more fence posts so I can extend the centre of my track so they have further to go, and less grass to access.

Another way to restrict grazing would be to strip graze, I often recommend this if you aren't able to track. I like to have a ‘chaser’ fence, so you are allowing the ground behind you to rest as well, best of both worlds! This helps to limit the fresh grass that your horse can access, but also helps to rest the ground so the sugary grass has a chance to recover.

If you can give your horses access to a yard or grass free area for a period of time each day and give them forage such as hay or haylage this is another useful method. Mine frequent the barn regularly, especially when it gets warmer as that’s where their water supply and shade is.

If you don’t have any of these options available to you, then stabling can be used. Although it is my least favourite option, with restrictions on livery yards you need to do what you can. As long as you can provide your horse with forage whilst they are stabled and they have access to turnout daily it can be manageable.

All of this is only really relevant depending on what type of grass you have in your fields. If you have access to varied meadow grasses that is ideal. However if like me you are on ex dairy pasture then you need to find a work around to give your horse what they require.

Forage, friends and freedom.

If you find you are struggling with how to tackle the worry this Spring feel free to reach out, I might have an idea or suggestion you haven’t thought of.

Another busy weekend on the Isle of Wight seeing all my regulars. Some fantastic improvements in hooves and it's been de...
09/03/2025

Another busy weekend on the Isle of Wight seeing all my regulars. Some fantastic improvements in hooves and it's been delightful weather too..

However that does show Spring is beginning.. time to keep a close eye on those who maybe affected by laminitis..

If you would like more support in helping to navigate this tricky time of year please reach out!

A picture of the cracking sunrise to greet me yesterday morning!

05/03/2025

This week's Winter Wednesday is all about useful items you own..

Our tack rooms / storage areas are often overflowing with things we brought at some time thinking ‘Oh that’ll be useful at some point’... But how much of it do we actually use? And of the things we do use, which are actually useful?

My top 5 are:

A good hoof pick! I was fortunate enough to have been given a hoof pick made from a shoe, by one of my tutors, when I first started training with Areion Academy.. It has pride of place in the top right pocket of my chaps, and quite often when working with my own horses I reach for it forgetting I might not be wearing my chaps! A good hoof pick needs to be strong, and the really good ones often have brushes on them too!

A wire brush! If you are one of my clients I quite frequently recommend a good wire brush - for exfoliation, or to stop small stones becoming trapped in the white line if there is some stretch or deviation present. I’ve not found a particular type which works ‘best’ but I like a sturdy handle!

Hoof Clay! Another thing that people often ask about, as long as it has antibacterial properties I don’t think it really matters which brand. If I’m honest I tend to stick to what I know so use Horse Leads products, so use Hoof Clay, and if I’m wanting to pack out a cavity I’ll use their Hoof Guard, which has natural fibres as well as all the good stuff.

Socks / stockings / tights.. Now this has a small amount of selfishness attached to it, so I do carry some when I’m working. But for holding feathers out of the way, or to protect me and my tools from muddy legs they are fabulous! I was gifted a set when I began my case studies and wouldn’t be without them now! They also make it really easy to take quality pictures and videos as there is no hair which can distort the images.

My final useful thing to own is probably going to be controversial but it is a lick! I prefer to use one which is molasses free, but to be honest any lick for a short amount of time, unless you have a very sensitive pony / horse will be fine. If it helps them to be settled whilst they are having their hooves trimmed, it means it will be a much shorter period of time they have to stand with their legs in the air, and less frustration for them.

Are there any items which you consider to be the most useful thing you own? Do let me know! I may need to add it to my collection!

Shetlands, a forgotten pony? Tonight I’d like to introduce to you Spam & Sticky as they are affectionately known. They a...
02/03/2025

Shetlands, a forgotten pony?

Tonight I’d like to introduce to you Spam & Sticky as they are affectionately known.

They are very lucky ponies indeed! They have the best of both worlds, having access to a super grass track, paddocks, (which get pre-grazed by a bigger equine,) and a yard with stables for when the ground is waterlogged!

Their owner Lulu Dunford has really put some time into giving these boys the best she can within her means. Which means A LOT of fencing!!

Years ago these boys were kept ‘traditionally’ in grassy paddocks, and stabled when required..
But not any more, and they love their track! Every time I visit to trim them they go charging out and start playing straight away, round the track, into any open paddocks to roll, and back out bucking and just being ponies!

They cover far more miles than when being kept in paddocks, and you can tell, they’ve kept a good weight and have some lovely muscle coverage.

Spam (the Skewbald) has been fortunate enough to have one home for the majority of his life, and it has just got better over time. In one of the photos you can see how grassy the track looks, and how Lulu has fenced it off so they only get a small amount at a time.. Which is helping them to not gorge the fresh grass and to avoid any triggers for laminitis.. Sticky joined a few years later, and he has benefitted from all the changes that have been put in place. Their hay is grown on site, and completely organic so she knows their complete forage diet.

It has been wonderful to watch how these lovely boys have had lifestyle changes over the years meaning they are now in the best environment they could be.

It is a prime example of how Shetland ponies benefit from being kept in as much of ‘a species appropriate’ way as possible. Freedom, friends and forage!
I want to say thank you to Lulu for doing her very best for her boys. I know they might not say thankyou but they definitely appreciate it!

In summary, I find, sometimes people think getting a Shetland is the easiest way to provide a companion for their bigger equines, and then are surprised when the Shetland has escaped or developed Laminitis.. Shetlands are hardy little ponies who are extremely clever, and require exactly the same level of care as their bigger counterparts.. In fact I’d say Shetlands require more! More fencing, more restrictions / adaptations and more supervision for sure!! But they are a well loved breed who deserve more than to be considered ‘just the Shetland’.

N.B I am well aware there are many, many Shetlands out there in homes which cherish them, and do their absolute best to give them everything they can, I’m just speaking from the lovely little ones I have on my books.. 😀

01/03/2025

Yesterday morning was my second visit to the lovely Willow over at Hill Pony Resources, after a lovely greeting from Willow by way of a sniff, we spent some time sniffing all my tools before we did a little reminder of lifting her hooves.

She was an absolute pleasure yesterday and has now had her hind hooves trimmed.

I'm very pleased we achieved it as she is going to be a lot more comfortable now.

Mary has done some fantastic work with Willow in helping her to regain her confidence in having her hooves handled and it has definitely paid off!

Looking forward to catching up with her again soon!

I do quite enjoy working with ponies who have a chequered history with hoof care - I would much rather take my time, listen to the horses and work within their comfort zones, this way we always end on a good note!

27/02/2025

Over the weekend I will by posting part 2 of my 3 part series - Shetlands the forgotten ponies.. featuring a very cute little man! Stay tuned 👀

23/02/2025

What a fantastic post from my favourite feed company Finer Forage - Naturally Better Horsefood well worth a read with a cuppa on this soggy Sunday!

06/02/2025

How lovely be sent this video of cheeky chappy Ziggy, a lovely little old man whose recovering from laminitis.. his owner has worked wonders to help his recovery be as smooth as can be. He's a lucky lad! (Shared with permission from his owner)

05/02/2025

Mud, glorious mud!

It’s winter, it's Cornwall, it’s wet and windy and there’s mud everywhere!
But what can be done about it?

Mud has its benefits, although when you have nothing else it is hard to see the perks!
If you are transitioning from shod to barefoot, having a soft turn out area will be great for your equine’s hooves, it also has a cooling effect so helps those who might have some heat present.

Sadly there are more con’s, it’s a sign of damaged ground, if it freezes when it’s churned up it can be quite the hazard. If it is deep it can cause injuries, and if it is shallow and slippery that’s also a problem! And frankly it’s not a trimmers friend!

Mud causes damage to tools, so ideally if you can, present your horse for trimming as clean as possible, personally I’d prefer towel dried rather than washed off, as once my clothes and equipment is wet it tends to stay wet until the end of my day. However I understand a lot of people don’t have access to the drier areas to be able to keep their horses clean so I always carry a towel and ‘socks’ for feathers.

Mud also causes damage to feathers, hair round the pasterns, and eventually damage to skin (mud fever) prolonged exposure to mud is not good for any equine. But it also isn’t good to be washing mud off every day and getting legs wet constantly. In an ideal world bringing horses ‘in’ on to some type of bedding to allow their legs to dry naturally is the best option. Or even if they have access to a yard or area of hard standing where they can hang out and the mud will dry naturally and can be brushed off.

There are many, many products available on the market for prevention and treating of mud fever. Some are available from the vet, most equestrian outlets and even some natural products too. Not everything will work for every horse, and prevention is definitely better than cure!

Here are a few products I’ve used in the past for both prevention and treatment:
(as always consult with your vet if you need more support)

Horse Leads MudMaster
Lincoln Muddy Buddy Powder
Sudocrem
Nettex Muddy Marvel Barrier
(New Product) Biteback products Mudbar plus.

There is also the option of turnout boots, which can provide protection against mud, although I would advise having at least 2 pairs to be able to put dry boots on each time to prevent rubbing.

In short there are so many options available it may take some trial and error to find the correct one, and I would always recommend patch testing any ‘new to you’ products before use.

Kicking off 2025 strong with a 3 part post! Shetlands..often known by another name, Sh*tlands.. Everyone either has one ...
03/02/2025

Kicking off 2025 strong with a 3 part post!

Shetlands..often known by another name, Sh*tlands..

Everyone either has one or knows someone who does. And I think they are great! As an owner of 2, one bought as a youngster and one a rescue I wouldn’t be without them. They are a vital part of my herd and the herd agrees. Mine are incredibly fortunate, they get treated for the most part, the same way as my bigger ponies, with a couple of necessary differences.
However some are not. I’d like to tell you a little bit about a couple of my client’s ponies. (permission granted to share pics and info)
This will be a 3 part post!!

Firstly, meet Graham! He was in a home, which met his needs, to a degree. He was fed and exercised. (loose, followed another hacking)
However certain things went amiss, handling, and hoofcare! 2 very vital things for any pony, let alone a shetland who was prone to getting laminitis! When I first met Graham mid last year he was very adamant I was a threat to his safety. He would swing any and all legs at me, and if I was close enough he’d try with his teeth. Most people would laugh it off as cute, and while yes I suppose it is.. It’s also very dangerous, as although those feet are tiny they pack a punch if they connect with the wrong bit!

His new owner has worked so hard with him and now he enjoys being handled and we are doing extremely well with his hoofcare.
At the beginning, his poor feet were incredibly neglected. His heels were so horrendously long and upright and very nearly touching! It was impossible to even see what was going on with the frogs and bars let alone get tools in! The first few visits were hard, trying to find a balance between doing what I could to make the poor chap more comfortable, whilst not scaring him too much or taking too much too quickly. (A whole other battle!)
By my last visit, mid December (6 weeks schedule) we had made some good progress, I could now see he had some laminar wedge growing out, a lot of sole to exfoliate, and bars running all the way around his frog!

This was the trim that highlighted for me the need to write this post. It has taken us some time to get to this point, and yes no doubt others would have done things differently. However I wanted to always work to Graham’s level of comfort. That was a level priority with getting his hooves into a better condition.

Feb rolls around and he was trimmed this last weekend. Wow what a difference. He came up to see me without throwing legs, took treats straight away and stood beautifully for his whole trim! I managed to use all the required tools, adjusted his frogs and was able to reduce the height of his bars to clear some of the sole which was stuck. Luckily nothing was trapped underneath! His hind hooves are now completely clear of laminar wedge and a lovely shape and some really strong structures coming down in the new growth. His front hooves still have a way to go, but the new growth is coming down at a lovely angle and looks really well connected.
Graham has really fallen on his hooves in more than one way! His owner has plans this coming year to ensure he is never at risk of developing laminitis again, and we will work together to achieve this!
I’m so incredibly grateful to his owner for allowing me to share their story and to help illustrate the incredible importance of not only routine hoofcare, but handling too!
The moral of this story is yet to come.. But all will make sense after the next post..

31/12/2024

Happy new year to all my clients current and new in 2025.
I look forward to continuing our journeys together!

Will be posting my 'new year niggles' tomorrow.

18/12/2024

Beds, beds, beds...

Where do you start? Banks, pellets, bales, mats or no mats..

There are so many choices on the market nowadays, but did you know certain ones have better effects on hooves?

Some bedding types can be extremely drying to hooves. Whilst this can be beneficial it can also be detrimental. Confusing right?

Below I've listed the most common ones and their pros and cons..

Shavings:
-Absorbent for urine,
-Can be too drying and can cause cracks if the horse is going from extremely wet fields to dry stables, (nutritional issues obviously contributing factor here)

Matting:
-BVA are soft and good for joints
-Hygienic and easy to clean.
-However if you don’t mat the whole stable can cause unevenness and issues in the joints with horses who like to stand in the same position to eat.
-Urine can get underneath and be hard to clean if not joined together.

Straw:
-Is cheap
-Can be eaten so it can add calories if horses are on a restricted diet.
-Ammonia smell is potent as not at all absorbent, and can also be dusty.
-Does not provide a stable base and moves around so horses can end up with pressure points.

Wood pellets:
-Gives a firm soft surface,
-Drains well,
-Again can be too absorbent sometimes.

Miscanthus:
-It is absorbent, but a good amount.
-Can be quite solid and provide a good base.
-Can get trapped in white line if there are issues,(nutritional or white line damage ie laminitis)

Paper & cardboard:
-Not absorbent and smelly,
-While useful it is not the best.

Peat or natural bedding:
-Rarely used nowadays
-Neutralises urine
-Absorbent
-Good for feet and joints.

The main problems with bedding are that urine softens hoof horn, so ideally you want something which has some absorbance to avoid this and also to prevent lung damage from inhaling ammonia.

Faeces are what cause infection in the hoof if they are compromised.

There are various topical treatments you can use to help deter this.

I know a lot of horses are required to be in for longer periods now winter is here so let's all try to make the experience as good as we can for their hooves.

As you can see there are plenty of choices, something to suit everyone's budget and time constraints. You have to find the one that works best for you and your horses.

Hopefully the above will help you to make an informed choice.

11/12/2024

Winter Wednesday Tips

Rugging riddles…

Where do you even begin?
Should you, shouldn’t you?
What weight, what type, what colour?

None of it really matters to be honest! What matters is what works for the individual horse.

A good example of this would be my daughter’s native pony, a Bodmin moor type. She hates the rain! She has been known to stay in the open access barn for days on end if it’s wet out!
But pop on a 50g and she’s out battling all weathers! You’d think with her coat she’d be fine, but she says otherwise! Then on the other end of the scale you have my old native (no longer with us) who whilst he could have done with a bit of extra help, refused point blank to even entertain the thought!

Rugging has its pro’s and con’s. A useful tool when used correctly. For those who are working and need to be clipped to replace their natural coat, or for the older horse whose internal furnace isn't quite working as it should, or for those with a medical condition.

Most horses when left natural can cope well with a temperature fluctuation between 0-15 degrees.

Some handy tips for you..

The best place to check the temperature of your horse I find is under their armpit, or behind their withers. This gives you a good base line. If they feel warm to the touch they are probably too hot. If they feel damp they are likely far too hot & sweaty.

If in doubt as the weather is so changeable, I prefer to slightly under rug and provide extra forage for the horse to warm themselves up, rather than over rugging and the horse being too hot.

No fills are no point. I used to think they worked as just a waterproof layer, however now I know better, they flatten the coat meaning horses aren’t able to trap air in layers between the hairs.
A 50g works well as provides some warmth.

The higher the denier the more waterproof the rug. A 1200 is generally pretty waterproof against most weather.

Layering works well, if you’re short on time and drying space, chuck a no fill on top of your usual turnout rug, they dry quicker and means you aren’t leaving your horse dripping wet all over a dry stable.

The best way to dry out a rug is on the horse! If it hasn't leaked right through, and the horse is still dry, the heat they create whilst eating overnight will dry it out nicely, and let’s be honest who wants to change into cold PJ’s!

The bottom line is, you know your horse best, treat your horse as an individual. Regardless of whatever anyone else says or does.

Some of you may know my daughter is home educated, i've donated a free consultation for the advent draw. These guys are ...
07/12/2024

Some of you may know my daughter is home educated, i've donated a free consultation for the advent draw.

These guys are leading the charge to getting an exam centre here in Cornwall.

Please have a look at the campaign and buy a ticket if you can there are some great prizes!

04/12/2024

Wednesday Winter Tip...

Forage = Fire

Most people know that burning fuel creates heat. But did you know that horses eating forage creates heat too. Isn’t that cool?!

There are so many types of forage which you can provide for your horse, some of these include grass, hay, haylage, and straw to name the most common ones.

During winter most horses and ponies kept in traditional settings will need to spend more time either in stables or on hard standing / dry lots. It is crucial they have access to some type of forage at all times.

If you are fortunate to be able to control when your horses change over to winter routine, you can allow them to adjust to the change in diet slowly, by introducing more of the forage whilst they are still out grazing for example. The grass quality generally drops after the autumn flush has passed. Grass stops growing once the temperature is under 5’ consistently.

Horses are always producing stomach acid, so as a result need saliva to keep this at a manageable level. Chewing forage helps with this process. If your horse does run out they can manage for up to 4 hours, after this it will cause some discomfort, which left long term can cause ulcers.

Gut microbes are responsible for fermenting the fibre in the horse's gut, which in turn produces the heat. The more fuel goes in, the more fire comes out.

I know there will be people who say, ‘ yes but my horse needs to be on restricted rations’ and there is a way around that too. You can slow down the consumption rate by using hay nets, or hay balls, you could swap a portion of hay out for good quality straw as an alternative. (ensure this is done gradually and a plentiful water source is available.)

I hope this gives you a little more information on how forage really can equal fire, and inspires you to help your horses have an easier winter. You might even save some money!

25/11/2024

Starting next week 4th December I will be sharing my Wednesday Winter tips.

A series of informative posts designed to help make winter a little bit easier for both the humans and horses.

Some topics I have in mind to discuss are forage, rugging, hoof care tips, bedding and feed.

Is there anything you would like to me discuss? Or do you have an itching question which you'd like help with?

Drop me a comment and I'll see what I can do..




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