09/01/2025
IF WALKING YOUR DOBERMANN IS A STRUGGLE AND A CALM OUTING CAN FEEL IMPOSSIBLE then follow our tips below to start to buck that trend :
If you go for your walk and your dog is completely in his own little world of sniffing, pulling or showing displacement behaviours, if he or she is anxious, then first you need to recognise the environment & stimuli there may be too much for your dog and you need decide whether or not there is even a realistic chance that you can continue this walk and it will be of use to you and your dog.
Ie : is he getting too over aroused and out of control or is he aware you are with him and can engage with you?
It is NOT always possible on walks to train. My top tip always is that we need to train for the walk & not on it. Preparation is key & establishing behavioural patterns we want our dog to adopt on walks must start at home.
But when we do move our training into walks what then?
Our training journey can sometimes feel overwhelming because often, despite the work you’ve put in at home, your dog's current abilities or the environment we choose can still be so mismatched that you cannot get focus and you will be dragged along with your dog feeling insignificant & out of control. So what can we do?
It’s necessary in this scenario that we have the ability to recognise that if we’ve attempted to train with our dog in a quite distracting place and our dog is too over stimulated to take the tasty chicken or some other high value tasty treat, we may need to abort & move on, and this is key to our training success. It may be that we need to turn around and go home at this stage. Try again at home. Tomorrow is another day! This would be a great decision for building your dog’s reinforcement history. Sometimes it’s possible to move our dog to a different area & observe his behaviour & body language and if he’s calmer there and able to take some food then we can start again with our training. If not - go home.
What is best is, rather than giving our dog a chance to further practice over arousal and disengagement (the inability to engage with you) and choosing the environment over you, then just move on or go home & don’t reinforce it by practicing it.
Sometimes you just have to know when it’s not working and limit the behaviour being practiced. This is good management and definitely “damage control".
On these occasions you are unable to train you and cannot get your dog’s interest in your offerings of games and food and engagement you can prevent it from becoming a negative learning experience.
It’s better to not have your dog learn anything at all than to have him learn something you later have to un-train or re-train. Constant practice of over exposure & over arousal is one of the hardest and most difficult behaviours to turn around.
Sometimes a dog can settle & work after he’s had the opportunity to “check out” his environment he’s just arrived in first, so it’s often really useful to allow him 10 minutes or so of sniffing & exploring before one asks for engagement. Observation here though is key: Is he OTT and straight into “hunting” mode as he sniffs; or is he looking relaxed in his body language and his sniffing indicates he’s just “reading the newspaper” checking information about who’s been here before him?
Observing and assessing body language & your dog’s demeanour in this way is a biggy in making a decision as to whether to give him 10 mins before trying to engage him or whether to just move on elsewhere or go home.
If you are really not sure then a little test you could carry out is to go right up to your dog and pop a tasty treat right on his his nose. If he’s too over aroused & zoned out he will not be able to take it & will not acknowledge it.
If that is the case then your dog is too distracted, he is so lit up he is unable to eat. What’s happening if this is the case, is that his physical nervous system responses to his environment have temporarily shut down the part of the brain that controls digestion whilst pumping him full of adrenaline & cortisol for action. At this point we need to move or go home.
However, if the treat on the nose reminds him you are there and he takes it, have another immediately ready to get him to follow you & then you can engage in a pattern game that’s well practiced to retrieve his focus. Once he’s focussed you can try following up with more training games using food & toys to keep focus & practice fun & engagement in that environment. Use plenty of fun re-enforcement your dog loves & keep the session short.
If your your dog does not turn towards you and the tasty treat & continues his over excited behaviour you may not be able to turn this training situation around.
This is a learning situation for you, not a failure for your dog, who is just responding to his automatic nervous system responses & hard wired prey drive, so just treat it as such - IT’s information that’s all, and abandon the area and try again in an easier location later or somewhere else next time.
Adopting this advice will help you progress your dog’s focus & engagement with you and prevent those miserable walks that are not serving either of you.
Patience & observation are key and this approach means you can work your way up through the different levels of environmental distractions with your dog gradually building his ability to cope without unnecessary stress and increase his learning ability and his focus on you too.
Dobercademy: Training through kindness, knowledge & understanding