ഗപ്പി - Guppy

16/02/2021

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06/01/2021

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01/01/2021

Best offer ever 🌟🌟💥💥💥
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23/08/2020

https://youtu.be/EABfgXj2YqQ

How to lower PH in aquarium: there are many videos that can be found on youtube that claim "how to lower ph easy" but this one explains why, what and when. A...

12/08/2020

02/08/2020

Male / Female

01/08/2020

Guppy Tail shapes

31/07/2020

Is Algae Bad for a Fish Tank?

Contrary to popular belief, algae are not evil. Like plants, they use photosynthesis to convert light and organic nutrients in the water (such as fish waste) into new algae growth. That means they also produce oxygen during the daytime and consume it at night. Unlike plants, algae are a less complex lifeform and therefore can survive in “worse” conditions than plants, meaning they can absorb more wavelengths of light and consume different compounds that plants can’t use.

Algae is actually a good thing for your aquarium’s ecosystem because many fish and invertebrates like to eat it and it helps clean the water as a form of filtration. Plus, certain algae can look attractive and make an aquarium seem more natural. However, most people don’t like their appearance, especially in planted tanks, since it blocks the scenery and viewing area in a fish tank.

The reality is that there is no such thing as a perfect planted aquarium that is 100% free of algae. Imagine you have a neighbor with a well-groomed lawn of grass. Even they will get the occasional w**d (like algae in an aquascape) that must be dealt with. Now let’s suppose your not-as-nice lawn has five dandelion w**ds that have grown to one foot tall. If you mow the lawn, then it will appear as if you have no w**ds. In the same way, we want to learn how to appropriately control algae so that you can’t see it and the tank looks like practically spotless.

30/07/2020

https://youtu.be/YTCZ3AepgsU

സാധാരണ ഗപ്പികൾക്ക് ബ്രീഡിങ് കേജിന്റെ ഉണ്ടാകാറില്ല. പക്ഷെ ഹൈബ്രിഡ് ഗപ്പികളുടെ കുഞ്ഞുങ്ങളെ ഒരിക്കലും നഷ്ടപെടര....

29/07/2020

Best Algae Eaters for Freshwater Aquariums

If your aquarium is covered with unsightly algae, you need some hungry helpers to get the outbreak under control. In this top 10 list of amazing algae eaters, we’ve gathered animals that are not only safe for aquatic plants but can often work together for increased effectiveness.

At Aquarium Co-Op, we’ve sold thousands of live plants, and one of our main concerns is keeping the plants as free of algae as possible. That’s why we utilize the most effective algae eaters in the aquarium hobby for our holding tanks. A key lesson we’ve learned is that each algae eater has a unique mouth and body shape that is ideal for eating specific types of algae. Therefore, we mix different species of algae eaters in our aquariums to consume the different kinds of algae that may appear. If you have a really large tank, start with just a few algae eaters on this list, adjust your tank lighting and plant nutrients, and wait a month to see what impact they have on the algae. If you need additional help, consider getting more clean-up critters from this list.

1. Reticulated Hillstream Loach

This oddball fish is one of the coolest-looking algae eaters you will ever see. Growing up to 3 inches (7.6 cm) in size, it looks like a miniature stingray covered with golden-brown dots and intricate black stripes. Using their strong gripping abilities, they can easily clean large, flat surfaces like vertical aquarium walls, rocks, and broad plant leaves. Think of them like your personal window washers for diatoms and other flat kinds of algae.

They can sometimes be a little territorial toward their own kind, so it’s best to get either just one loach or at least three loaches in a group to even out the aggression. Keep them in cooler waters with a stable pH, feed them high-quality sinking foods like Repashy gel food, and you may be lucky enough to see some baby loaches pop up in your aquarium.

2. Amano Shrimp

While hillstream loaches are great at consuming flat types of algae, you may also need a more nimble-fingered algae eater that can reach into narrow gaps or tear off chunks of fuzzy algae. Meet Caridina multidentata, a clear-brown dwarf shrimp that can reach 2 inches (5 cm) in length. They are one of the rare animals that will eat black beard algae and hair algae, but only if you don’t feed them too much. Given their small size, you’ll need a group of at least four of them (or even more) to make a significant dent in the algae growth.

3. Nerite Snails

ornamental snails that are adept at both scavenging and eating algae. They’re especially handy at scraping off the very tough green spot algae and other algae found on plants, driftwood, and decor. Unlike most other types of aquarium snails, their white, sesame seed-like eggs will not hatch in fresh water, so you don’t have to worry about an out-of-control population boom. While there are many beautiful varieties to choose from (e.g., tiger, zebra, horned, and red racer), we personally like olive nerite snails because they seem to be the hardiest. Just don’t forget to provide extra calcium in the water (using crushed coral or Wonder Shell) and in their diet (using nano food blocks) to help with healthy shell development.

4. Cherry Shrimp

If you did a direct, head-to-head comparison, a single cherry shrimp (or Neocaridina davidi) isn’t as efficient at algae eating as an amano shrimp. However, these brightly colored dwarf shrimp breed easily in home aquariums, and with a decent-sized colony, they provide excellent preventative maintenance against the buildup of excess food and algae. Their tiny limbs are perfect for picking through the substrate, plant roots, and other tiny crevices, and they’re happy to consume anything that’s digestible. At 1.5 inches (4 cm) long, cherry shrimp come in almost every color of the rainbow and can be easily sold for profit to your local fish store or other hobbyists.

5. Otocinclus Catfish

The catfish of the Otocinclus genus are commonly known as otos or dwarf suckermouths because they typically stay around 2 inches (5 cm) in length. Their smaller, slender bodies allow them to fit into tighter spaces than other algae-eating fish. Like the hillstream loach, their mouths are ideal for eating diatom algae from flat surfaces, and you can find them usually hanging out on the aquarium glass or plant leaves. Otos are prone to being underfed, so make sure you give them plenty of Repashy Soilent Green and vegetables like canned green beans and blanched zucchini slices

27/07/2020

Sponge filters

Sponge filters are placed on the bottom of the aquarium. Using an air pump, water is drawn into the sponge and ejected through an exhaust tube. Some mechanical filtration occurs, however, their main function is as a biological filter. Due to the high surface area in the sponge, they filter fairly large volumes of water relative to their physical size. While not often used in display aquariums, many breeders use them in nursery tanks because they will not trap baby fish and they support important micro-organisms that serve as first food for newly hatched fry

26/07/2020

Internal Power Filters

These filters are placed inside the aquarium and are driven by an integrated pump. Open style filters attach to the aquarium glass by suction cups or hang on the rim using clips. Water is filtered through a standard HOB filter cartridge. Closed style internal filters pass water through mechanical, chemical and biological media chambers before directing it back into the aquarium through a controllable directional nozzle. Internal Power Filters can be installed vertically or horizontally and have adjustable flow rates and directional control, making them ideal for paludarium or riparium use.

26/07/2020

Compared to HOB’s, canister filters hold more media and offer the aquarist unlimited flexibility in terms of media options. They are typically used on mid-size to larger aquariums in both freshwater and saltwater applications. Canister filters are positioned below the aquarium, usually inside the cabinet stand. Water is drawn into the filter through an intake tube, passes through the media and is then pumped back to the aquarium via a return tube. A spray bar or directional jet is used to agitate the surface and provide current in the aquarium. Canister filters function best as mechanical filters and are ideal for large aquariums, those with fish that create a lot of waste or fish that like strong current.

25/07/2020

External Power Filters

Also known as hang-on-back (HOB) or simply hang-on filters, these are the most popular filters for small to mid-size freshwater aquariums because of their reliable performance and convenient maintenance. As their name suggests, they hang on the back of the aquarium and water is drawn or pushed into the filter chamber where it passes first through a replaceable carbon filled fiber cartridge and then some type of permanent biological media before returning to the aquarium. The discharged water agitates the surface, thus oxygenating the water and provides circulation within the aquarium. Some HOB filters can be manually loaded with individual media for more specialized use. Cartridges should be rinsed as needed and changed monthly.

24/07/2020

Stages of Filtration

There are three stages of filtration: mechanical, chemical and biological. Most aquarium filters perform all three but are sometimes better at one or two at the expense of the others.

Mechanical: The removal of solid waste, organic debris and other particulate matter by trapping it on fibrous or sponge material and then rinsing or replacing the media. This is typically the first stage of filtration, although ultra-fine media for “water polishing” is often placed at or near the end of the flow path in canister filters. The density of the material will determine what size particles are filtered out and the resulting water clarity. Finer media provides clearer water, but usually needs to be cleaned or replaced more often.

Chemical: The adsorption of dissolved pollutants using granular materials such as carbon, ion exchange resins, zeolite and other media. Carbon also removes the yellow or greenish tint common in mature aquariums. Specially treated pads that can be cut to size are also available and provide both mechanical and chemical filtration. Chemical filtration is typically the second or third stage in the filtration process but can vary depending on personal preferences and philosophies. This media must be replaced when exhausted or saturated.

Biological: The conversion of toxic ammonia to nitrite, and then nitrite to nitrate through oxidation by nitrifying bacteria, often known as the Nitrogen Cycle or Biological Filtration. These bacteria grow on permanent media which are usually not changed or replaced. Biological media can be composed of ceramic, sintered glass, plastics or even sponge. The best bio-media have very high surface area for maximum bacterial growth. Biological Filter media is generally the last stage of filtration allowing the beneficial bacteria to have the cleanest water possible.

24/07/2020

Everything You Need To Know About Filtration

Fish release waste into the same environment they eat, breathe and live in, making an efficient filtration system critical to their long-term health and well-being. Choosing the best filter for your aquarium will depend on aquarium size, the types of fish you keep, your feeding habits, maintenance practices and to some extent your personal preferences.

Most filters on the market are rated for specific aquarium sizes, however, the bio-load in your aquarium is just as important if not more so. Simply stated, this refers to the number and size of fish and the amount of food being fed each day. For example, a 55 gallon aquarium with one or two large predatory fish may require a larger filter than the same sized aquarium with dozens of small schooling fish because predatory fish produce larger amounts of waste. Fish that are fed three times a day create more waste – or a higher bio-load – than fish that are fed once a day. For best performance, always choose a filter rated at least one size larger than your aquarium. For aquariums 100 gallons or larger, multiple filters may be required.

23/07/2020

15 Common Fish Tank Problems and How to Avoid Them

Aquarium keeping is a fun and rewarding activity that can provide years of enjoyment, education and even stress relief. When you’re new at it, however, it’s easy to do things that might not be good for your fish or your stress level.

Here are a few of the most common fish tank problems that beginning hobbyists experience.

1. Starting with too small of an aquarium. Small aquariums can be more difficult to maintain than larger ones and are not well-suited to beginners. Conditions tend to be more stable in larger aquariums, and if things start to go wrong, you have more time to correct them. Aquariums 20 to 55 gallons are ideal for first time aquarists. Always start with the largest aquarium your space and budget allow.

2. Not cycling the aquarium. It takes time to establish the biological balance in an aquarium. While there are products on the market that help speed up this process, the safest way to cycle a newly set up aquarium is to 1) Add just a few fish initially, 2) feed sparingly and 3) Test ammonia and nitrite levels until they stabilize at zero. Repeat this process until the aquarium is fully stocked.

3. Buying fish on the same day as the aquarium. A newly set up aquarium is not ready for fish on the first day. A new aquarium set up should be run for a minimum of 2 to 3 days before the first fish are introduced.

4. Adding too many fish to a new aquarium. A new aquarium is a biological clean slate. The microbes that filter water and create balance in the aquarium are not established and a sudden overload of fish waste can cause toxic ammonia and nitrite levels to rise to dangerous and even lethal levels. This can also result in a longer than normal cycling period.

5. Not testing water in a new aquarium. It’s impossible to know if ammonia or nitrite problems are developing or it’s safe to add fish to your new aquarium without testing water. Existing fish often adjust to slowly rising ammonia and nitrite levels and may not show signs of distress until it’s too late. New purchases can be severely stressed if added to an aquarium with high levels because they do not have time to adjust. There is no magic “safe” time interval for adding new fish, and you can’t see ammonia or nitrite in water. Testing is the only way to know if your aquarium water is safe.

6. Overstocking. When you’re new to fishkeeping, you want to buy every fish you see. But there is a limit to how many fish a beginner aquarium can hold, regardless of how large it is or how efficient the filter is. Many fish grow larger after they are purchased, and some fish are territorial and become aggressive when crowded with other fish. Always err on the side of having fewer fish in your aquarium rather than too many.

7. Overfeeding. It’s normal to worry about your fish going hungry, but you can actually cause more harm by feeding too much. A new aquarium should be fed once a day, and all food should be consumed within two minutes. Uneaten food can pollute the water and cause ammonia and nitrite levels to rise.

8. Buying a filter that is too small. You can’t really over-filter an aquarium, but it’s fairly easy to under-filter one. Most beginner fish tank filters are rated based on how many gallons the aquarium holds. This rating system works well for the most part, however, heavily populated aquariums, or those with large predatory fish or fish that generate large amounts of waste should be fitted with oversized or multiple filters. For best results, purchase a filter that is rated for an aquarium a little larger than the one you own.

9. Seeking advice from too many sources. It’s important to research equipment and livestock purchases before making them, but asking the same question of a number of different “experts” can sometimes result in confusion because everyone has a different opinion or method for success. When you’re new to aquarium keeping, it’s hard to know what techniques will work best for you. Stick with one reliable source of information at first, and follow their advice until you feel confident enough to try things on your own.

10. Compromising quality for price. No one wants to overpay for anything, but the saying “You get what you pay for” often applies in the aquarium world and with your initial fish tank set up. Reliable, quality equipment may cost a little more, but your fishes’ lives depend on it.

11. Impulse buying. Always research new fish before purchasing them to make sure they are compatible with existing inhabitants and will not outgrow your aquarium. Some fish have special water chemistry needs such as lower pH or alkalinity, which your tap water may not provide. Also, if fish you are considering buying are specialized feeders, make sure you are able to provide the proper food for them.

12. Leaving the aquarium light on all the time. Like all animals, fish need a resting period, and it should be the same period every day. In nature the day/night cycle is fairly consistent, especially in the tropics. Leaving the aquarium light on all the time stresses your fish, and also contributes to unsightly algae growth. Putting your aquarium light on a timer is an easy way to provide a consistent light cycle. If the aquarium is used as a night light in a child’s bedroom, turn the light off and draw the curtains during the day to simulate nighttime for your fish.

13. Overcleaning. When an aquarium is first set up, the biological balance is fragile and unstable. Avoid scrubbing ornaments, stirring or vacuuming the gravel or cleaning the filter when it doesn’t really need it, as this can destroy beneficial bacteria and upset the balance. If your aquarium or filter seems to need cleaning in the first 2 to 3 weeks after setup, the filter may be too small for the job, you may have too many fish, or you may be overfeeding.

14. Topping off for evaporation instead of doing a water change. Adding water to your aquarium when it evaporates is called “topping off”. Doing this instead of performing a water change on a regular basis will result in an accumulation of pollutants such as nitrate and phosphate and a drop in pH and alkalinity. This stresses your fish and leaves them more susceptible to disease. Change out 10% of the water in your aquarium every week or 25% every 2 weeks.

15. Insufficient cover. Aquarium decorations provide habitat, make your fish feel secure, reduce stress and enhance their colors. Fish often hide because there are not enough decorations in the aquarium, seeking refuge behind a heater, filter tube or other object.

23/07/2020

Beneficial Bacteria In Your Aquarium

What Are Beneficial Bacteria?

A healthy, balanced aquarium relies on beneficial bacteria to break down fish waste, dead plant material and other organic debris that accumulate in the tank. They keep the water crystal clear and prevent toxic ammonia and nitrite from accumulating. These bacteria live in the filter media and on solid surfaces in the aquarium, such as gravel, rocks, plants and decorations, but it takes time to get them established.

Why Are Beneficial Bacteria Important?

Newly set up aquariums sometimes experience dangerous spikes in ammonia and nitrite from fish waste due to a lack of these bacteria. This happens when more fish or food are added than the existing bacteria can process. Ammonia is released by fish as waste and is broken down by beneficial “nitrifying” bacteria to nitrite and then nitrate, in what is known as the Nitrogen Cycle. Both ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic to fish. It’s important to add fish gradually to new aquariums and feed sparingly at first to give beneficial bacteria time to colonize the tank and filter.

In established aquariums, accumulation of solid fish waste, uneaten food, dead plant material and other organic debris can cause a deterioration in water quality and a drop in pH. This is especially true in tanks containing goldfish, large cichlids, piranhas and other predatory fish.

22/07/2020

Dropsy

Also known as “pinecone disease” or Malawi bloat, dropsy is more a set of symptoms than an actual disease. It can be caused by a virus or bacterial infection of the kidney that results in fluid build-up in the fish’s abdomen, causing the fish to swell and the scales to stand on end, giving it the appearance of a pinecone. Treatment is dependent on what the cause is. While the true cause of dropsy symptoms is not always treatable, antibiotics or the use of Epsom Salt in a quarantine aquarium have been known to produce results. Infected fish should be removed from the aquarium to prevent transmission to other fish.

22/07/2020

Viruses

Viruses are tiny organisms that invade the fish’s cells and begin to replicate. They can be difficult to diagnose because they often produce similar symptoms to many other fish diseases. Viral infections are well documented in koi and goldfish as well as angelfish, but they can affect all aquarium fish. There are no known cures for viral infections. Fish that are suspected of having a viral infection should be removed from the aquarium promptly to prevent spreading to other fish. Treatment with antibiotics or anti-parasitic medications in a quarantine aquarium can be attempted in case the infection is a bacteria or parasite and not a virus.

22/07/2020

Fungi

True fungal infections in fish are less common than parasites or bacteria. They typically appear as white cottony or “furry” growths on fish but can also be internal. They can be induced by substandard water quality, infected food or open wounds, but there are many other causes. Although fungal infections are not generally contagious, infected fish should be treated immediately with an anti-fungal medication, preferably in a quarantine aquarium.

22/07/2020

Bacteria

Sometimes referred to as Fin and Tail Rot bacterial infections are the second-most common diseases aquarium fish experience after parasites. They often follow parasite infestations, abrasions or physical injury, but can also be brought on by chronic exposure to poor water quality and/or poor diet. Removal of a fish’s protective mucous membrane or scales during netting is another common cause.

Bacterial infections manifest in many ways, but common signs include a white film on the fish’s body or fins, cloudy eyes, tattered fins, and hemorrhaging (bloody patches) or open sores (ulcers) on the body and mouth. Also, if you still see white spots on your fish after 5 or more days of Ich treatment, your fish may have a secondary bacterial infection where the parasites bored into their bodies.

Treating for bacterial infections can be tricky and should be done with care, as some antibiotics can disrupt your aquarium’s biological filter. In addition, unless you have access to an incubator and are knowledgeable in fish pathology, correctly diagnosing what specific bacteria have infected your fish is nearly impossible. That said, some trends do exist and certain medications are known to be effective in specific instances. Always consult an experienced aquarium professional before treating your fish for bacterial infections.

22/07/2020

Nematode Worms

Commonly referred to as roundworms, nematodes can have direct or indirect life cycles. Those with direct life cycles can be passed directly from one fish to another when the fish eat nematode eggs or larvae. Those with indirect life cycles need a secondary host such as an invertebrate or another fish to complete their life cycle before becoming infectious again. Roundworms can be difficult to accurately diagnose, and symptoms can be similar to many other diseases. Common signs of a roundworm infection include hemorrhaging of the body, bloating of the abdomen or the opposite – wasting away even though the fish is eating well, cysts or lumps on the body, or the actual worm protruding from the fish’s a**s. Another symptom is white f***s, although this can also be caused by internal bacterial infections or Hexamita (see above). Effective treatments include levamisole, metronidazole or praziquantel. Metronidazole and praziquantel are especially effective when used as food soaks. Antibiotics such and nitrofurazone or erythromycin may also help prevent secondary bacterial infections. Read all package directions before using any medications and avoid mixing different medications in the aquarium.

22/07/2020

Lateral Line Disease (AKA: Head and Lateral Line Erosion or HLLE)

Also known as “hole in the head” this disease is caused by the protozoan Hexamita and is most commonly seen in discus, oscars, severums and other cichlids such as angelfish, although it can infect any freshwater fish. Typical symptoms are cavities in the fish’s temples and along the lateral line. Another symptom is white, stringy f***s. Hexamita often starts in the fish’s intestines and then goes systemic. Poor water quality is often a contributing factor for this disease. It is usually treated with metronidazole, also sold as Flagyl. The most effective treatment method is medicated food, but if the fish has stopped eating, metronidazole can be added directly to the aquarium.

22/07/2020

Flukes

Fish flukes (Gyrodactylus sp.) are a group of parasites that invade the skin and gills of aquarium fish. They attach using a set of “hooks” and begin sucking blood and body fluids, thus weakening the fish. Symptoms include loss of color, difficulty breathing, excess mucus secretion, listlessness, clamped or tattered fins, flared gills and small blood spots on the fins and body. Like most fish diseases, fluke outbreaks usually result from stress caused by poor water quality, improper diet, overcrowding or aggression from other fish. They can also be introduced into your aquarium by new fish purchases that are not quarantined. The safest and most effective treatment for fish flukes is Praziquantel. Treating the aquarium with formalin can also be effective.

22/07/2020

Anchorworm

Lernea cyprinacea, known as anchorworm, is another crustacean commonly seen on goldfish and koi, but they can infect any fish. They have multiple life stages, but infestation begins as what looks like a pimple or red sore on the fish, then later the string-like bodies of females can be seen attached to the fish. Anchorworms bore into the fish’s body through the scales, attach using hook-like appendages and begin to digest body fluids. Anchorworms also invade the fish’s gills and mouth cavities. They can be removed using tweezers, but care must be taken to pull the entire parasite out, as they sometimes break off, leaving the head and “anchor” attached. When pulling Lernea out of a fish, a small chunk of flesh may be removed, requiring the use of antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infections. To prevent further infestations, the aquarium should be treated with salt or Dimilin to kill eggs and other life stages