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30/12/2019

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07/11/2019

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06/11/2019

Step-by-Step Guide to Moving a Fish Tank

Moving a fish tank is one of the biggest challenges of moving into a new home.

One wrong mistake and you may crack the glass, pour out water and fish or even scare the fish to death – literally!

But you love your fish and you want make sure that they travel safely with minimal to zero losses.

Here is a step-by-step guide to moving a fish tank on moving day:

1. Safely Remove Fish from the Tank
Yes, this seems like the first obvious step, but there are precautions that people easily overlook.

First, you will need to scoop some water from the tank into a small cup or container. Secondly, soak the fish net into water for 10 minutes. This will make it easier on the fish. Once the time has passed, gently pick up your fish from the tank and place them into the container you set aside.

Have rags readily available to wipe any spills that may occur. You can also minimize spills ahead of time by setting up newspaper on the floor.

If you use leak-proof fish bags, make sure there is as much air as possible near the top. Then close off the top with tightly-wrapped rubber bands.

2. Unplug and Drain
Before commencing the cleaning process, you must first unplug any electrical wires that are connected to your fish tank.

In part of regular maintenance, you should already be draining 10% of the fish tank water every week or 20% every two weeks. We recommend doing this with a siphon hose. If you don’t already have one, you can purchase a siphon hose online at Amazon.com.

3. Clean Gravel & Accessories
Clean out excess food, waste, algae, and debris with a gravel vacuum.

If you decide not to purchase a gravel vacuum, you can use the siphon hose as an alternative Also, you can use an algae scrubber to scrub off the algae from the glass, rocks, and decorations.

For tough-to-clean decorations, scoop them out of the tank and soak them into a water-bleach solution for 15-20 minutes. Then, pour boiling water over them and let them air dry.

Pro tip: Excessive algae may be an indicator that you need to feed your fish less or change the fish tank water less frequently.

Move plants and their roots in Ziploc bags with water in them. You can reposition them once you move into your new home.

Also, rinse and scrub your filter cartridge with a sponge. Replace every 3-4 months or whenever the filter pad is falling apart.

4. Disassembling the Fish Tank
For this process, we recommend grabbing the following equipment first:

Protective gloves
Protective googles
Razor blade/scraper
50 lb. fishing line
Soft mallet
Towels/blankets
Place the empty tank over towels or blankets to minimize the mess.

Begin by removing the trim, or the plastic surrounding the top and bottom of the fish tank. The mallet can help with loosing this. However, be careful not to strike or shake too hard as you may break the glass.

Scape as much of the silicone as possible with a razor blade or scraper. Do the same for the bottom trim, so you can remove the bottom panel.

While gently pressing the opposite corners, use the razor blade or fishing line down the corners of the tank. One at a time, you will be able to safely pop out these panels.

Use the scraper again to remove excess silicone. You should now be well on your way to move the fish tank, panel by panel.

Reference to the owner’s manual if you are having a hard time to disassemble or reassemble the fish tank.

5. Packing the Fish Tank
Wrap the glass panels securely in a couple layers of wrapping paper and heavy-grade bubble wrap.

You can store the accessories into a separate moving box. Hold on tight to your fish though! It’s best to have them on your lap than have them bounce around in the moving truck.

Moving a fish tank may seem like a hassle at first, but you will be happy knowing that you were able to securely transport your fish into their new home.



Allow West Coast Moving & Storage to safely handle your beloved fish.

Our team of friendly moving professionals can help you during every step of the moving process, from the initial free consultation to the unpacking and re-assembling your belongings in your new home.

Contact us today for a free moving or storage estimate!

06/11/2019

Keeping Fish Helps Reduce Stress and Improve Mental Health

Forty million Americans will battle a mental health illness this year and finding a cost-effective treatment isn't that simple.
Researchers are looking for better ways to treat those affected by mental illness. One of their discoveries is that animal assisted therapy (i.e. keeping a pet) can help reduce the negative side effects of mental illness.

fish

People find emotional support in dogs and cats, and even chickens, but there's one type of pet that's been underestimated: fish.

Fish won't fetch the morning paper or greet you at the door, but aquatic animal experts with Fish Keeping World have found that owning fish can reduce stress and make overall improvements in mental health.

Manager of the Fish Keeping World website, Robert, wants to spread the message that aquatic pets have a significant quality that naturally helps improve a person's well-being. He compiled data related to mental health in the U.S. and applied that to the emotional and psychological benefits of owning fish.

Fish swimming in saltwater aquarium in front of the colorful corals
According to researchers from Plymouth University and the University of Exeter, something as simple as gazing into an aquarium and watching fish swim can lead to noticeable drops in heart rate and blood pressure. There's a reason why people often find aquariums full of colorful fish in the waiting room at the doctor's or dentist's office. Healthcare practitioners use fish to help their patients reach a sense of calm.

Aquariums are also used in nursing homes. There's evidence that brightly colored fish help stave off disruptive behavior with people with Alzheimer's - making them feel more serene and less prone to outbursts of aggression.

Female dentist showing X-ray report to young woman in clinic
The science behind why fish help improve mental health isn't exact, but the reassuring nature of watching an animal swim effortlessly through the water connects with people on a subconscious level. Also, the gentle burbling of the filter creates a tranquil ambiance, and the interesting-looking fish and neatly arranged vegetation captivates attention.

Robert and the rest of the team at Fish Keeping World promote the benefits of fish over the extravagant expenses of other treatment methods. The idea behind animal assisted therapy is relevant for all domestic animals, including dogs, birds, and even mini horses, but there are certain advantages fish have over their terrestrial companions.

Robert told Wide Open Pets:

"Fish keeping is a fairly inexpensive way to keep pets and also requires less time commitment than other pets."

Keeping a personal fish tank in your home is relatively inexpensive and requires less upkeep than taking a dog for a walk. Even small tanks have the potential to affect mental health. And if owning a tank isn't an option, public aquariums aren't hard to find.

06/11/2019

How to Clean a Freshwater Aquarium


Cleaning your aquarium isn’t as hard as setting it up. Monitor the pH levels and visible gunk regularly and change your filter cartridge every two to four weeks. Perform a 25 percent water change every two to four weeks as well. You can use algae scrubbers and other tools to keep your aquarium looking spiffy between cleanings and changes.



To change the water, turn off the heaters, pumps, and filters and remove all the decorations and plants from the tank. Wash everything in warm, clean water and set them aside. Try not to remove your fish too often when cleaning, as it’ll cause them stress and can make them sick. If you must, gently remove your fish with a net and place them in a large glass or bucket with some of the original tank water.



Using a gravel cleaner or homemade siphon and vacuum the gravel until you’ve removed about one-third of the water from the tank. This should give you ample time to clean almost all of the gravel (and anything you don’t get to you’ll be able to clean next time). Always make sure to replace the old water with fresh, pretreated water that’s the same temperature as the old water.



It’s a good idea to keep all your aquarium supplies together. Setting aside your sponges, towels, buckets, nets, and scrubbers will help prevent the introduction of any harmful pollutants into your aquarium.



Commonly Asked Fish Tank Questions


Q: How do I get rid of algae in my fish tank?
A: Algae is bothersome and grows in every aquarium, but you don’t have to wait for your regular aquarium cleanings to get rid of it. Tools such as simple scrubbers or magnetic scrubbers can be used to gently scrub the algae off your tank walls.



Q: How do I clean fish tank gravel?
A: Buy a gravel cleaner from your local pet store, or make your own siphon out of a length of plastic tubing and use a water bucket.



Q: How do I clean a fishbowl?
A: Fishbowls are a lot like aquariums, but they need to be cleaned much more frequently, especially if they aren’t equipped with a filter. If the fishbowl doesn’t have a water filter, change the water frequently, but only by 10-to-15 percent of it at a time. For small fishbowls, remove the fish and place them in a large glass with enough water from the tank to make them comfortable. Then, follow the above instructions for scrubbing the sides and decorations, making sure to never use soap or detergents.



Q: How many fish can live in a 10-gallon tank?
A: It depends on many factors, including the breed and size of the fish you plan on buying. For small, slim-bodied fish like neon tetras, cloud minnows, danios and gourami, a good rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water. However, you’ll need to consider your filtration system, if there are any healthy live plants and how often you change the water as these could change the number of fish you can have in the tank.



Q: Can I use table salt to make my freshwater aquarium saltwater?
A: No. Adding marine salt to freshwater aquariums has been used for stress reduction or for fish tanks that house fish native to brackish water, but you should never add table salt to a freshwater tank in an attempt to make it a saltwater tank. Most wild freshwater fish and plants come from areas with little-to-no detectable sodium. Freshwater fish are adapted to water that has salt content measured in parts per million (ppm) whereas salt in seawater is measured in parts per thousand (ppt). Most freshwater fish cannot adapt to saltwater conditions and will quickly become dehydrated if placed in a saltwater tank.

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01/07/2019

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> Detailed information on Ornamental fish Care
Breeding,Treatment,Aquascaping
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04/07/2018

സ്വർണമത്സ്യം

പരിപാലന സ്ഥിതി
Domesticated
ശാസ്ത്രീയ വർഗ്ഗീകരണം
സാമ്രാജ്യം: Animalia
ഫൈലം: Chordata
ക്ലാസ്സ്‌: Actinopterygii
നിര: Cypriniformes
കുടുംബം: Cyprinidae
ജനുസ്സ്: Carassius
വർഗ്ഗം: 'C.auratus
ഉപവർഗ്ഗം: C. a. auratus
ശാസ്ത്രീയ നാമം
Carassius auratus aura

Breeds

1)Common Goldfish - Feeder goldfish come in a variety of colours including red, orange/gold, white, black and yellow ('lemon') goldfish.
2)Telescoping eye -the Black telescope is a black variant of telescope goldfish that has a characteristic pair of protruding eyes. It is also referred to as popeye, telescope, kuro demekin in Japan and dragon-eye in China.
3)Fancy Celestial eye goldfish or Choten gan has a double tail and a breed-defining pair of upturned, telescope eyes with pupils gazing skyward
4)Bubble Eye Golfish -The small, fancy Bubble Eye has upward pointing eyes accompanied by two large fluid-filled sacs.
5)Oranda and red cap orandas -The fancy oranda is characterised by a prominent raspberry-like hood (also known as wen or headgrowth) that encases the whole head except for the eyes and mouth.
6)Pearlscale -The fancy pearlscale or chinshurin in Japanese, is spherical-bodied with finnage similar to the fantail.
7)Lion Head & Ryukin Gold -The fancy lionhead has a hood. This fish is the precursor to the ranchu.
The fancy ryukin has a short, deep body with a characteristic shoulder hump.
8)Ranchu _The fancy Japanese ranchu is hooded. The Japanese refer to it as the "king of goldfish
9)Zebra Gold/Tabasama Gold _ he Tamasaba or Sabao is an uncommon Japanese variety of goldfish with a body shaped similar to the Ryukin and a very long, flowing, single tail that is similar to that of a mackerel, hence its other name, Mackerel Tail
10)Butterfly Gold - The Butterfly Tail Moor or Butterfly Telescope is of the telescope-eye lineage, with twin tails best viewed from above. The spread of the caudal fins resembles butterflies underwater.

Goldfish info

..Feeding,Care,Disease Control

Credits : Lakshmikanth DS
Aquarium.com

04/07/2018

Step-by-step Guide to Setting Up a Planted Aquarium
Discover the Natural Beauty of Planted Aquariums
A freshwater planted aquarium is a unique and natural aquatic ecosystem you can create for your home. Planted or natural aquariums contain specially selected aquatic plants and fish to closely replicate beautiful underwater environments found in nature. Gardeners, teachers, and experienced aquarists alike are discovering the many benefits of these beautiful aquariums.

Because of the complementary relationship between fish and plants, an established natural aquarium is usually easier to maintain than other aquarium setups. Fish provide carbon dioxide and nutrients for healthy plant growth. In turn, aquatic plants provide supplementary biological filtration and oxygen to create a clean, healthy environment for fish.

Whether you're new to planted aquariums or an experienced hobbyist, you're sure to enjoy the graceful beauty of this unique aquarium. Follow along as we take a 20 gallon high (20H) aquarium and turn it into a beautiful natural aquarium - complete with easy-to-grow aquatic plants and peaceful community fish.

Start with a 20-gallon high aquarium, Aquarium Stand, and Fluorescent Strip light.

Planted aquariumRecommended Aquarium Equipment:
Power filter
100W Submersible Heater
Coralife Digital Thermometer
2 - 15.4 lb bags Seachem Flourite™
24" Floramax Plant Growth Lamp
3 Driftwood
16 oz Stress Coat® Plus
Test Kit
Flourish Liquid Plant Pack
250 ml Seachem Flourish™ Excel
Recommended Aquarium Plants:

3 Anubias barteri
6 Anubias nana
6 Cryptocoryne
4 Micro Sword
4 Wisteria
3 Java Fern
1 Green Myrio
2 Ludwigia
2 Rotala Indica
OR - Pre-Selected Plant Pack
Recommended Aquarium Fish:
Cardinal Tetras
Rummynose Tetras
Albino Aeneus Cory Cats
Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami
Step 1: Set-up and Start with Quality Plant Substrates

Set up aquarium and stand.
Add a high quality, mineral-rich substrate (this is the foundation for long-term success).
Rinse plant substrate well before placing in aquarium.
Fill aquarium with dechlorinated water and install filter and heater.

Step 2: Test and Regulate pH Levels and Hardness (KH)

Depending on your source water, use a water conditioner to adjust the pH to between 6.5 & 7.5 (Seachem Acid Buffer or Neutral Regulator). This pH range is appropriate for both fish and plants. Remember to monitor the pH often once the aquarium has been set up.
In areas that experience very hard water, use Reverse Osmosis water and remineralize with Seachem Equilibrium.

Step 3: Add Light Fixtures
The standard fluorescent lamp included with an aquarium hood or strip light is not ideal for healthy plant growth.
Replace the supplied fluorescent lamp with a plant lamp (use two strip lights if you are keeping plants with higher light requirements
Step 4: Add Aquatic Plants

Allow aquarium to establish for at least 2 to 3 weeks before adding fish.
Use short plants in the foreground and add plants in ascending order to fill the midground and background.

Step 5: Add Fish

Allow aquarium to establish for at least 2 to 3 weeks before adding fish.
A school of 6 to 12 small fish is perfect for natural aquariums. Remember, the plants are the "stars" of a natural aquarium.
Refer to our list of recommended fish, but most community fish will do fine in a planted aquarium.

Step 6 : Add Supplementary Plant Nutrients as Needed

As aquatic plants begin to develop, they will require supplementary nutrients (fertilization) to sustain growth.
Carbon is an especially important plant nutrient rapidly used by growing plants. Carefully follow manufacturer's recommendations to maintain healthy plant growth.
Credit : Ansal S
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25/05/2018

The CZ Aqua High Active For Better Grooming...!

25/05/2018

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28/03/2018

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Dropsy disease results when the kidneys fail to work properly causing fluid retention and swelling of the goldfish's belly. In late stages of dropsy disease, the scales of the goldfish will protrude outwards. When you observe these symptoms in a sick goldfish, its chances of survival are low. If dropsy disease is diagnosed early, goldfish can survive. By correctly diagnosing dropsy and treating the symptoms as well as the underlying disease, the goldfish will have the best chance
Diagnosing the Ailment
Watch for bloat. Dropsy is a build-up of fluids inside the goldfish. Thus, the first signs of dropsy will be general bloating
Look for any unusual increase in size of the goldfish.
Treating the goldfish at this early stage presents the best chance of saving the goldfish.
Look for bulging eyes. Beyond the initial bloating, fluid build-up begins at the goldfish’s head. As fluid builds up under the goldfish’s eyes, they will start to bulge out
Notice distended scales. This is the classic symptom of dropsy. As fluid build up moves down the goldfish’s body, its scales will start to rise up from its body. When the fluid build-up has progressed through the goldfish’s whole body, it will look like an opened pinecone.
Pearlscale goldfish are sometimes mistakenly diagnosed with dropsy because their scales naturally have a raised bump in the middle. A Pearlscale goldfish likely only has dropsy if its scales are far more raised than usual.
Once a goldfish has reached this change it is usually not savable. However, it doesn’t hurt to treat the symptoms and try to cure the underlying disease.

Part
2
Treating the Symptoms
Isolate the sick goldfish. Dropsy—and its underlying causes—are not contagious. However, the conditions a goldfish needs to recover from dropsy are different than the normal ideal conditions of an aquarium. A second tank of similar size can serve as the goldfish’s sickbay.
Perfect conditions must be maintained for the goldfish’s immune system to have the best chance to recover
Fill the tank with fresh water. The water should start out at the same temperature as the water in the goldfish’s original tank. This will prevent the goldfish from going into shock in its new environment
Slowly raise the water temperature. The ideal water temperature for a goldfish with dropsy is 80 degrees Fahrenheit. A relatively high water temperature will prevent bacteria from multiplying.
Raise the temperature in the tank by a two degrees every hour until it reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Use an adjustable aquarium heater so you control the rate of temperature increas
Add Epsom salt. The kidney’s function is to keep the fish’s internal salt levels balanced with the salt levels in the water. When the kidneys shut down, salt builds up in the goldfish. Increasing the salinity of the tank helps the goldfish to stay in equilibrium with its environment—which will boost the goldfish’s immune system.
Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water.
Don’t add too much salt. A high level of salinity will put even more stress on the goldfish’s kidneys.

Change the water frequently. The goal is to keep the goldfish in perfect, clean conditions while it recovers from dropsy. Changing the water on a regular basis will help achieve this goal
Aim to change the water once every three days.
Remember to slowly increase the temperature and add salt to the new water.
Part
3
Curing the Disease
Realize dropsy has many causes. Dropsy is a symptom of many goldfish diseases. It can be caused by bacterial infections, parasitical infections, toxins, and kidney cysts. There is no way to know the cause of a particular goldfish’s dropsy. Only the first two causes—bacterial infections and parasitical infections—can be treated
Since there’s no way to know the cause of dropsy, it makes sense to provide all available treatment
Treat any bacterial infection. There are two antibiotic treatments available for treating bacterial infections in goldfish—Kanaplex and Kanamycin. They each target different bacteria, so its important to start with one, check for improvement, and move onto the other.
Add thirty-six milligrams of Kanaplex per gallon of water to the tank. Continue the treatment for seven days. Watch the goldfish for signs of improvement such as decreased bloating, more active swimming, and increase eating. If you don’t notice any improvement, move on to Kanamycin.
Add two-hundred milligrams of Kanamycin per gallon of water to the tank. Continue the treatment for seven days and watch for improvement.
You can purchase Kanaplex and Kanamycin at any pet store that sells fish. If you don’t have a pet store nearby, both antibiotics are available online .
Treat any parasitical infection. There is no well-established treatment for parasitical infections. However, liquid praziquantel has shown some promise. In any case, it won’t hurt to try.
Shake the bottle of liquid praziquantel vigorously. Add two-hundred milligrams of praziquantel per gallon to the tank. Continue the treatment for seven days and watch for improvement.
Praziquantel is available at most pet stores that sell fish. It’s also available at online retailers.
Part
4
Returning the Goldfish to its Aquarium
Watch for signs of recovery. If the goldfish has become more active and less bloated, wait three weeks to ensure the change represents real recovery from dropsy. If the positive change continues, it’s time to return the goldfish to its home tank.
Slowly reduce the water salinity. Over the course of three water changes—approximately nine days—reduce the water salinity by 1/3 of a teaspoon. At the third water change, do not add any salt
Slowly reduce the water temperature. Over a period of hours, reduce the water in the isolation tank to the temperature in the tank where the goldfish will be returned. This will acclimate the goldfish to the new temperature so it doesn’t go into shock
Return the goldfish to its home tank. To help prevent future outbreaks of dropsy, perform regular water changes and ensure that the water temperature does not fluctuate more than a few

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06/10/2017

Newborn angelfish babies of our hatchery

Angel fish fry care
-----------------------------------
Housing Baby Fish with Their Parents
You can leave the baby angelfish in the aquarium with the parents for up to three weeks. In most cases, adult angelfish will not eat their young, especially if they have already had a few litters. Keeping the fry with the parent pair will delay another reproductive cycle because the parents will be focused on the babies in the tank. The adults will eventually tire of the babies, but by then, it will be time to thin the herd, placing some of the fish in a different aquarium.

Raising Angelfish Fry in a Community Tank
Living in a community tank is dangerous for baby angelfish. Most will get eaten by other fish, but there are a few things that you can do to increase their survival rates. As soon as you see eggs, place tall plants for the babies to hide and tall decor with tiny spaces where bigger fish cannot enter. You should offer different size brine shrimp several times a day to reduce the risk of the larger fish feeding on the baby angelfish.

Feeding Baby Angelfish
For the first week, the angelfish fry will be stationary and will feed on their own yolks. Once the baby fish become free-swimming, you can start offering newly hatched brine shrimp or microworms. Offer small, frequent meals to keep food in their stomachs for most hours of the day. When the babies are about 3 to 4 weeks old, you can supplement the brine shrimp with crushed fish flakes, and when they are about 4 to 6 weeks old, you can switch the young fish completely to flakes and freeze-dried, frozen and pelleted foods.

Use Live Plants to Balance the Water
When raising baby angelfish, consider adding live plants to the aquarium. The live plants will help keep the water clear, hinder algae growth and add oxygen to the water. Live plants also absorb waste in the water, which helps keep the ammonia levels down. Keeping live plants with your angelfish fry will help keep the water balanced, which will increase your survival rate and the overall health of the baby fish. Broadleaf aquatic plants and Amazon sword plants are hardy plants that are perfect for angelfish aquariums.

18/09/2017

Hole in the Head Disease


Hole in the Head Disease is probably the most feared disease amongst people who keep Oscar fish. Hole in the Head Disease is not always fatal if caught early and treated. However, it can often leave terrible scarring on the fishes head which may be permanent after the disease has healed.

Diagnosis

Hole in the Head Disease is relatively easy to diagnose. In its very early stages, you may notice one or two small holes appearing on the fish's head. Often the holes are very symmetrical, almost as if somebody has stuck a dart into the Oscars skin. If left these holes will gradually get bigger and grow in number. Holes and lesions may spread to the mouth area, around the gills and eyes. In severe cases, the lateral line may start eroding. Once the condition becomes very bad, you may notice stringy mucus trailing from the wounds, people often mistake these for worms. The fish may well go off its food and develop a hollow-bellied appearance.

Hole in the Head Disease is curable, but more importantly, it is perfectly preventable. Regular tank maintenance, i.e. water changes, removing solid debris from the tank and filtration system will help keep the water in good condition. Good water conditions are the key to preventing Hole in the Head Disease in Oscar Fish.

Treating HITH

If you notice Hole Head Disease developing then act quickly by first testing the quality of your aquarium water. Carry out an ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH test, preferably using a liquid test kit. In the majority of cases hole in the head disease is brought on by poor water conditions, it is extremely uncommon for fish to develop this disease for no reason. However, because stress is the main cause of hole in the head disease it could have been caused by the fish being exposed to large fluctuations in water temperature, normally occurring when water changes are carried out. If you discover that you have indeed got poor water conditions then you must act accordingly by carrying out a large water change to remove as much of the toxin as possible. You may also be wise to get a product called "Prime". This product not only removes chlorine but also detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. One thing to remember when using these chemicals that "remove" ammonia is that they don't actually remove ammonia, what they do is detoxify the ammonia and turn it into ammonium which is a less toxic form of ammonia. Therefore, when you carry out a water test, you will still get a reading for ammonia, but you will actually be testing ammonium which is much much less harmful to fish. Carry out water changes until your ammonia and/or nitrite are back to zero and stay like that.
Nitrate is a byproduct of ammonia and nitrite. Whereas it is nowhere near as toxic as ammonia or nitrite, it must be kept as low as possible. Very high levels of nitrate will cause stress to your fish which in turn can bring on disease and illness such as Hole in the Head Disease. We do not recommend letting your nitrate exceed 40 ppm. Regular water changes will help keep nitrate levels low.

Early stages of Hole in the Head Disease can be cured by simply increasing your tank maintenance and water changes making sure that there is no toxins present, and your nitrate is always low. Severe cases of hole in the head disease may need intervention from medication. One of the most recognised treatments for Hole in the Head is a medication called Metronidazole. Metronidazole comes in tablets and powder form and is also part of the ingredients of some medication.

Metronidazole
Hexamita parasites are what cause Hole in the Head Disease. They are best treated using a medication called METRONIDAZOLE which needs to be obtained under prescription in the UK if bought in tablet form. This medication needs to be ingested by the fish, it can't simply be added to the tank like other medications. Obviously, a fish is not going to simply eat these tablets, you will have to mix the medication with food so the fish will readily eat it. There are various ways to prepare Metronidazole so that it can be easily fed to your fish.


Your veterinarian should prescribe you Metronidazole in tablet form which you will then need to crush into powder form. I would rather not give you exact measurements as this is a job for your veterinarian. However, if you don't need a prescription and you can buy this medication off-the-shelf then they should come with detailed instructions on how much to use. If you are still confused then visit our community forum for advice. There are a couple of ways to prepare your food, one way is to take some frozen food, partially thaw it, mix the powder mix with the partially frozen food and then refreeze it. Once it is frozen it is ready to feed to your fish. Another way to prepare your medication is to use dried pellets food, crush them using a mortar and pestle until the pellets are in the form of fine powder. Then take your Metronidazole tablets and crush them into powder. To bind them back together you can use gelatin which can be purchased from most food stores. You will have to mix the gelatin and tablet powder together until you have the consistency of firm paste. Roll the pellets into balls that resemble the food size that you feed your fish. Don't make them too big or the fish might struggle to eat them. It should only take half an hour for the pellets to set, after this, they are ready to feed to your fish. So you should feed your fish for a minimum of one week on this food type, do not feed your fish any other type of food during this period of medication.

If you are in the UK then there is a product called Octozin.This medication comes in tablet form and you treat your tank over a number of days, these tablets are not meant to be ingested so don't prepare them the same way as Metronidazole. I can't really give you any kind of guarantee that this medication will work, but it's always worth trying.

A Healthy Diet
One theory put forward is that a poor diet lacking in vitamins contributes to the development of hole in the head disease. An unhealthy diet weakens the fishes immune system which can then allow the Hexamita parasites to become more troublesome. Feeding your Oscar on a healthy diet is very important if you want to keep it healthy. A good quality pellet feed will contain all the vitamins your Oscar needs so this should be the staple part of its diet. A lot of people give their Oscar fish live foods such as goldfish, aka feeders, these are unsafe and should not be part of your Oscars diet. Feeders are often bred in large numbers and are not taken care of, they often harbour disease which can be passed onto your Oscar. Feeding your Oscar greens as part of its diet is recommended. Try peas, pieces of courgette, even carrots if your Oscar will accept them. If your Oscar won't eat vegetables then the easiest way to introduce vitamins into their diet is to feed them foods such as earthworms, snails, shrimps, prawns, mealworms, cockles and mussels. All of these are readily available from the fish store, supermarket, fishmongers, pet shop, or you can even harvest some of these foods from your garden.


Vitamins
Most good quality fish foods contain all of the vitamins that your fish require. However, it wouldn't hurt to give them a few extra vitamins whilst you are treating them. With some vitamins, you can add a few drops to the aquarium water every day, or if you want to make sure that the fish are getting the vitamins, try soaking the food in some liquid vitamin. You can soak various foods such as bloodworm, meal worms, pellets and probably even worms. How much difference extra vitamins will make is something I cannot answer, but it is certainly not going to do your fish any harm.

Unfortunately, due to the fact that many people do not keep Oscars in the correct environment, hole in the head disease is all too common and we often get people seeking help on the forums. Oscar Fish can get quite big, they produce lots of waste and create large amounts of ammonia. If you do not provide them with the correct living conditions, i.e. a large aquarium, a healthy diet and plenty of filtration, it is inevitable that you will be putting your fish at great risk from developing not only hole in the head disease but many other disease and illnesses as well.

Sensory pits

I think it's worth mentioning an Oscars "sensory pits". Lots of people suddenly notice tiny little pinprick holes when they are observing their Oscar close up, or when they are looking at a photograph that has been taken using the flash. They then start panicking because they think their Oscar is developing hole in the head disease. Worry not, these are sensory pits and are totally normal, they should not be confused with hole in the head disease. The excellent photograph above provided by Deepak, one of our members clearly shows lots of pinprick holes arranged in circles, these are the sensory pits.