Rabbit/Bunny- Indian Owners and Parents

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Rabbit/Bunny- Indian Owners and Parents Like Our Page if you are a Rabbit Lover. Have or wish to adopt Rabbits. We share Information of growing and keeping Rabbits. Do's and Don'ts for Rabbits etc.

Education about Feeding/petting Rabbits. Rabbits Owners and Parents Page

25/09/2021
❤️ Rabbit (India) Owners and Parents Group
20/09/2021

❤️ Rabbit (India) Owners and Parents Group

Can you draw your Bunny 😘
19/09/2021

Can you draw your Bunny 😘

Run should never Stop ❤️ Rabbit
17/08/2021

Run should never Stop ❤️ Rabbit

Getting a Rabbit ?
24/07/2021

Getting a Rabbit ?

Rabbit Vs Hare
24/07/2021

Rabbit Vs Hare

Hare Vs Rabbit
24/07/2021

Hare Vs Rabbit

What should you do if you find a wild rabbit?If you spot a wild rabbit and you’re worried they’re in trouble, it’s best ...
24/07/2021

What should you do if you find a wild rabbit?

If you spot a wild rabbit and you’re worried they’re in trouble, it’s best to observe from a safe distance to start with. Mother rabbits usually only return to their underground nest twice a day and, in most cases, baby rabbits don’t need any intervention from humans.

If you see very young kits above ground, the nest may have been disturbed by a predator or the kits may be injured. In this case, the RWAF recommends keeping the babies in a warm, quiet and dark place. A cardboard box filled with hay is a good choice.

If you’re concerned that a wild rabbit has been injured and needs help, contact your local wildlife rescue centre or wildlife rehabilitator /Vet for advice.

Bear in mind that baby hares can look very similar to baby rabbits, but they are found above ground and shouldn’t be disturbed unless it’s clear their mother is not returning.

While wild rabbits might share some visual similarities with their domesticated cousins, temperament and character wise they’re very different. Wild rabbits aren’t suited to life as a pet bunny.

Can wild rabbits be pets?If you find a wild rabbit, don’t be tempted to think you could persuade them to accept life as ...
24/07/2021

Can wild rabbits be pets?

If you find a wild rabbit, don’t be tempted to think you could persuade them to accept life as a pet. As Richard says: ‘Wild rabbits are derived from generations upon generations of rabbits who have evolved to be scared of predators, and run or fight at the first sign of trouble. They are shy, fearful and totally unused to human companionship. They will make very bad pets: constantly fearful of humans, easily stressed, and liable to bite or kick if handled.’

Wild rabbits may also carry disease and parasites that can be transferred to your pet rabbit.

24/07/2021

Can wild and domesticated rabbits breed?

Richard Saunders, Veterinary Advisor at the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF), says that ‘domestic rabbits are the same species and are native to Europe (Oryctolagus cuniculus) and so they can interbreed’.

He notes: ‘This is not uncommon, where wild rabbits have entered a garden, or domestic rabbits have escaped or sadly been dumped in the countryside by owners. Domestic rabbits will not thrive in the wild, having few innate survival skills, and so must not be released into the wild, ever.’

If your domestic rabbit happens to become pregnant from a wild rabbit, Richard suggests that these half-wild kits ‘may be more likely to be tame and content in captivity, but early socialisation is really important, getting them carefully used to humans from around two weeks’. In theory, this carries a small risk of abandonment by the mother, but the risk can be reduced by handling them with gloves and picking up a handful of bedding with them to avoid direct contact.

24/07/2021

How were rabbits domesticated?

The earliest written records of rabbits being kept in captivity can be traced back to Roman times. For a long time, both domesticated and wild rabbits were essentially the same. It took over 2,000 years of rabbits being kept in captivity before any significant differences could be seen in the skeletal structures of domesticated rabbits.

The breeding of specific breeds of domestic pet rabbits can be traced back to 16th-century Germany, with the first breed club being founded in 1892. Rabbits became a popular pet in Victorian England, and they’ve been loved ever since. There are now over 200 different breeds of domestic rabbits recognized worldwide.

24/07/2021

Wild versus domesticated rabbits – what’s the difference?

Wild rabbits typically roam over an area of around 10 acres. They have far shorter lifespans than their domesticated cousins, and generally live for two years compared with the domestic rabbit’s lifespan of around 10 years.

Wild rabbits eat a diet of mainly grass, wildflowers and clover. In the colder months, they will supplement this with bark, conifer needles, buds and twigs.

Rabbit /Bunny needs
19/07/2021

Rabbit /Bunny needs

14/07/2021

Difference Between Nipping and Biting in Rabbits

Real biting is different from nipping. While biting is rare in rabbits, nipping is common.

“Nipping” refers to when rabbits nibble you gently, without opening their mouth wide. Nips feel like small pinches. They do not hurt or break the skin.

Rabbits nip one another to establish the order of dominance. They also nip each other affectionately, usually during a grooming session. They can even nip for attention, or to say “get out of my way.”

A nip from a rabbit is nothing to worry about. Your rabbit is most likely trying to show you love, or asking for something. Some rabbits nip their owners when they’re hungry, for example.

DO NOT BATH OR TRANCE YOUR BUNNY
14/07/2021

DO NOT BATH OR TRANCE YOUR BUNNY

Pellets:If your pellets include a moderate amount of each, as such is the case with most common high-quality feeds, then...
09/07/2021

Pellets:

If your pellets include a moderate amount of each, as such is the case with most common high-quality feeds, then straight Timothy Hay will be best for your rabbit. But, if your feed has high protein/fiber content, then you should only feed them Hay Based pellets. Additionally, being what should be one of the most important parts of your bunny’s diet – Hay should be given in consistent amounts, at consistent times. The best way to make sure you’re providing enough to fulfill the rabbits’ nutritional needs is to offer them 1-2 handfuls of hay, every day. For best results, make sure to put the hay in a feed dish or hay rack, rather than just tossing it onto the cage-floor, where it can be soiled & wet on, which then would make it unfit for them to eat.

Feeding hay to your rabbit(s) is one of the most important things to do.  The reason is because, while they do require t...
09/07/2021

Feeding hay to your rabbit(s) is one of the most important things to do. The reason is because, while they do require the other nutrients that are offered in pellets, hay will provide the protein and fiber that is lacking in the grains that they eat. Fiber and protein contents are very important because, when given consistently, they regulate the entire GI Tract. Without this, they can easily develop multiple, deadly health problems – including but not limited to GI Statis and Mucoid Enteritis, which is more commonly known as “bloat”. Understanding the amount of protein and fiber in the pellets that you feed will give you the answer as to what type of hay that your rabbit needs. For instance, if the pellets you use has a low protein/fiber amount, then you may want to consider choosing Alph-alpha / Timothy Mix Hay.

How do I hand-feed a baby rabbit?Hand-feeding a baby rabbit is not for the faint of heart. In fact, the job is very time...
09/07/2021

How do I hand-feed a baby rabbit?

Hand-feeding a baby rabbit is not for the faint of heart. In fact, the job is very time consuming and is harder to do that what it may seem to be. Not only do you need to know what to feed them, you must also know what the correct amount is for each stage of growth. While under feeding will cause them to starve to death, over feeding them can cause pain and gas, making the baby sick.

Bottle options
Choosing the correct bottle is as important as having the correct formula to put into the bottle. For novices, the choices can be confusing. The typical pet-nursing bottles that are sold for kittens and other small animals, but that is not the end-all be-all options you have to work with. There are various types of Syringe feeders, Q-Tips, and sponges. There really is no right or wrong option; however there are right and wrong ways to use each of them.

1. PET NURSING BOTTLES: These can be bought at very low prices, in most stores which offer pet supplies. The important thing to note is the ni**le size and the fact that you have to make the hole in the tip of the ni**le. If you make the hole too large, the babies can get too much formula and possibly aspirate. On the other hand, if you make the hole too small, the babies may not be able to get enough formula and will, essentially, starve to death. Therefore, the best method is to use a pair of (tiny, very sharp) fingernail scissors. Push the tip of the scissors up thru the “inside” of the ni**le, and continue pushing until half of the blades are pushed thru and out of the tip.

When you pull the scissors out, pinch the tip of the ni**le to expose the cut area, and then working from the outside, using the center of the cut as your center-point, snip an “X” into the ni**le. This may need to be repeated to get the hole to produce an effective amount of formula. You will ‘have it right’ when you test the cut. To do this, put water in the bottle, replace the top and ni**le, and hold it at a 60-80* downward angle. Pinch the end of the ni**le with mild to moderate pressure. If a droplet easily comes out, you are in good shape. If water comes out without the need of pinching the ni**le, your hole may be too large. And if there is no droplet or if it requires you to pinch hard and only results in a small drop, then your hole is too small.

2. Q-TIPS: These are readily available at most any store, and cheap. This option may be best and easiest to use for newborn babies. You will want to use the type with rounded tips, not the pointed type that are made for make-up applications. There are two ways to use a Q-tip to feed with. The first method is to dip the cotton-end of the q-tip into the formula and allow the baby to suck the formula off of it, then re-dip and repeat. It may take a few tries to get the baby to understand that it is being fed this way, so don’t be too forceful, but keep trying until he gets the hang of it. The next method is to cut a q-tip in half and insert the stick end into the end of a syringe.

Note that the syringe will need to snuggly hold the stick, or formula will just pour out when you try to use it to feed with. Otherwise, when using this method, you will need to be sure the q-tip has the plastic, hollow type sticks. This allows you the option of putting the formula into the syringe and allowing it to flow down and soak the cotton, therefore eliminating the need to continually dip the q-tip into the formula so many times.

3. SPONGES: Buy a pack of make-up wedge sponges. Dip the thin end into the formula, and use the corner edge for the baby to suckle from. This is a better option than the q-tip dipping method in regards that you don’t have to continually dip the sponge. Instead, once the baby has drained the formula from it, you can put more formula on the center of sponge with a dropper, which will then be absorbed down into the tip the baby is nursing from.

4. SYRINGES: Syringe feeding can save a lot of time, however the type of syringe you use will play an important role in how the formula will be accepted.

(A) Rubber Ear Bulb Syringes work very well for this, as the tip of the syringe and the stick of the q-tip are relatively a good fit, although you will still need to “push” the stick into the syringe so that it is snug and will not be easily removed from the baby while suckling from it. One notable caution is to pay attention to the cotton. If the baby chews it and frays the fibers apart, you will want to switch q-tips to a new one; to prevent the baby from swallowing the stringy fibers which might cause choking or GI problems such as Wool Block.

(B) Sponge-Syringes can be used in similar method as described above. If opting for this method, you would push the end of the syringe into the wider/thicker end of the sponge about half-way down into the sponge. The notable caution with this method is also as described above; being careful to watch that the baby doesn’t chew any bits of the sponge off, which could result in choking or GI problems.

(C) Slip-On Ni**le Syringes would be your other choice. These can be used with several types of feeding tips, from silicone tube to ni**le. One of the more popular types is called a “Miracle Ni**le”, which slips over the end of a slip-tip and luer-lock syringe as well as small pet bottles, and offers a pre-made hole in the tip (available on Amazon).

Baby Formula

Now that we have covered the container options, let’s look at what you will need to put into the bottle. There are several milk replacers, including kitten formula that can be used safely when feeding orphaned bunnies. However, the best option is Goats Milk, which can often be found in the dairy section of your local grocery or Health Food type stores. Next, you will need Heavy Whipping Cream; also available in the dairy section of your local grocery store. And then you will need Colostrum. The most commonly used form is the powdered “Kid Colostrum” for Goats, which can be found at most feed-supply stores. Once you get these items home, you will need to gather up a few tools: A container with a lid that closes (such as a Water Bottle) for mixing and storing, a small bowl and coffee cup, ½ cup measuring cup, and measuring spoons at 1 Tablespoon and ½ Teaspoon. Now, you will want to put the formula mixture into the mixing/storing container. Here is the recipe: ½ Cup Goat Milk, ½ Teaspoon of Heavy Cream, and 1 Tablespoon (or 10 emptied capsules, if using that form) of Colostrum. Now in your coffee cup, fill half full of water and microwave for 1-3 minutes, or until the water is at a low boil. While waiting on the water to heat, close the container with the formula and shake vigorously for several minutes. Once the water is hot, pour a small amount of the formula into a the small bowl.

(Tip: A washed out single-snack size yogurt cup works great!)

Then place the small bowl of formula into the hot water. This will heat the formula without scorching it, while allowing you to have a more consistent watch on the temperature of the formula. As you would with an infant child, you want the formula to be room temperature or luke-warm. The babies will not drink cold milk, and if it’s too hot it could cause them to be burned.

Feeding the babies
When feeding baby rabbits, there are several things that should be noted. First of all, the babies only need to be fed twice daily – morning and night. And after every feeding, for at least the first 2-3 weeks, each baby will have to be stimulated to potty. It is easily done! Just gently rub or pat the ge***al/anal area with a warm, soft cloth; however, failure to do so could be fatal. Otherwise, here is a simple chart to show you the amounts that baby bunnies should be fed.

0-1 week of age: 2 – 3cc per baby

1-2 weeks of age: 4 – 7cc per baby > resist over feeding and do not allow the baby to eat too fast, as this could result in aspiration or gas build up

2-3 weeks of age: 7 – 14cc per baby > start introducing hay

3-6 weeks of age: 14 – 17cc per baby > gather a cecotrope from any healthy, parasite free adult rabbit and mix it into a small amount of the formula for 2-3 consecutive days; may need to syringe-feed this as most babies do not like it and will often try to refuse to eat it… this is an important step in establishing healthy flora in the babies guts. *After this cecotrope introduction, you can also begin offering small amounts of pellets to the babies.

Help! My baby bunny is aspirating

One of the most common forms of death by hand-fed baby animals is due to aspiration. This is the term used for a baby who failed to correctly swallow formula. The liquid gets into the lungs and quickly, the baby “drowns” and dies very quickly while you watch helplessly. But guess what! You CAN save your baby. This is how: place the baby, lengthwise, on the palm of your hand (head at fingertips, tail at wrist) and close your other hand securely over the baby, so that you are cupping it in your hands. Now, standing up, raise your hands to chest level and swing downwards, between your knees. Do this swiftly, but not harshly, and be very careful not to drop the baby. Doing this acts like doing the Heimlich Maneuver, causing the fluid to be forced out and restoring the ability to breath.

How can I tell if my Rabbit is pregnant?It is fairly safe to say that if you have a healthy buck and a doe living togeth...
05/07/2021

How can I tell if my Rabbit is pregnant?

It is fairly safe to say that if you have a healthy buck and a doe living together, or in a place where they can reach each other, they will breed. If not today, it will only be a matter of time before it happens. Sometimes you will see the breeding occur (especially if it is an intentional breeding), but other times you may not*. For the sake of this article, however, we will just assume that you knew about the breeding and are now wondering if your little girl is soon to be a little mommy. Well, the first thing to do – if you are aware or guessing that the breeding took place – is to write down the date this happened. Note that the full gestational period (length of pregnancy) is 28-31 days. Now, count 10-14 days from the date of the breeding. When those days arrive (day 12 being the best), you can try to “palpate” your doe.

Palpating means that you will manually feel her stomach to check for babies. To do this, place your rabbit on a flat surface, or hold her like in the manner that you would hold a football – with her nose near the bend in your elbow. Next, place your hand under her body, around the underside of her stomach, with your palm facing up. Wrap your fingers the sides of her stomach and gently squeeze. You will need to feel all areas of her abdomen, and what you should feel is a small bunch of balls, about the size of marbles or grapes. In essence, imagine yourself holding a squishy water-balloon that has grapes inside of it and your goal is to find try to find the grapes without smashing them, or busting the balloon. In other words, if you feel a little clump of grapes – congratulations! She’s pregnant.

*If you are still not sure or are not comfortable with the results of your palpating efforts, other signs to watch for are changes in the doe’s attitude, changes in appetite, and unusual or significant measured weight gain. Or, there one sure way to be safe is just to treat her as if she is pregnant, and on the 26-27th day of pregnancy give her a nest box full of straw and leave it with her until day 35th day. That way all of your bases are covered.

How to care for Newborn Rabbits?When you have a new liter of kits (baby bunnies) born, your job is very important – but ...
05/07/2021

How to care for Newborn Rabbits?

When you have a new liter of kits (baby bunnies) born, your job is very important – but very simple. As soon as you see that birth has occurred, you will need to pick up each baby born. Make sure they are warm (new kits chill quickly and they will die if they get cold). Check each one for any physical injuries, missing body parts, and remove any that are not alive. Doing this takes a short amount of time, and as quickly as the initial check is done, place the bunnies back into their nests and let their mom do her job. Every day, you will need to do this quick basic exam, and in doing so, pay attention to the babies skin and stomachs. If mom is feeding them, the stomachs will look full, but not necessarily fat, and the skin on their bodies will mostly be well-filled vs. excessively wrinkled.

If it appears that they have not been fed, then check them again 12-16 hours later. If no changes have occurred, you may wish to turn mom over onto her back, securing her back feet, and hold each baby onto her belly to allow them to nurse. Feeding each one will only take a couple of minutes, as their stomachs are very tiny, so don’t worry if they don’t eat much. Do not believe that old wives’ tale about not touching the babies. Rabbits are good moms, and they will not abandon their liter just because you touched them. In fact, by the time she gives birth, she should be so accustomed to you that she pays very little attention to you even being in the nest.

After the first weeks:

After the babies have grown up a bit, their fur has come in and their eyes have opened, around the 3rd week, you will see the babies getting more active and hopping in and out of the nest. At this point, if you haven’t already, make sure there is clean, fresh hay for them to nibble at on a daily basis. As they grow, this will help the flora in their guts to be prepared for nibbling at moms’ pellets, and in doing so, will reduce the risk of them developing GI Stasis or other forms of “bloat”.

Rabbit Bedding:The best type of rabbit bedding is clean, bagged straw. Rabbit bedding needs to be checked on a daily bas...
04/07/2021

Rabbit Bedding:

The best type of rabbit bedding is clean, bagged straw. Rabbit bedding needs to be checked on a daily basis and removed if soiled. Particular attention needs to be paid to the accommodation during hot weather as flies may quickly lay their eggs on soiled bedding and the resulting maggots may burrow into the rabbit’s fur and body cavity. This could be potentially fatal to your rabbits and is known as fly strike.

It is easy to litter train a rabbit. Once you are aware which corner they prefer to use as a toilet, place a litter tray there big enough for your rabbit to use comfortably. This will make it far easier to keep the accommodation clean.

Peek-a-Boo
04/07/2021

Peek-a-Boo

Root vegetables aren’t a natural part of a rabbit’s diet, and carrots are high in sugar so should only be fed occasional...
04/07/2021

Root vegetables aren’t a natural part of a rabbit’s diet, and carrots are high in sugar so should only be fed occasionally and in small amounts.

A rabbit's diet should be 90 per cent hay. Access to a constant supply of hay prevents their teeth overgrowing, like thi...
04/07/2021

A rabbit's diet should be 90 per cent hay. Access to a constant supply of hay prevents their teeth overgrowing, like this...

Owners/Parents Keep Hay handy :-)

A single bunny is a lonely bunny. Rabbits are social creatures and are happiest in the company of their own species.The ...
04/07/2021

A single bunny is a lonely bunny.
Rabbits are social creatures and are happiest in the company of their own species.
The best combination is a neutered male and neutered female. They can become extremely sad and depressed if kept on their own.

Owners /Parents Did you Know these Rabbit facts?1) A baby rabbit is called a kit, a female is called a doe and a male is...
04/07/2021

Owners /Parents
Did you Know these Rabbit facts?

1) A baby rabbit is called a kit, a female is called a doe and a male is called a buck.

2) Rabbits are very social creatures that live in groups. They live in warrens — a series of tunnels and rooms that they dig underground.

3) A rabbit’s teeth never stop growing! Instead, they’re gradually worn down as the rabbit chews on grasses, wildflowers and vegetables — meaning they never get too long.

4) Rabbits perform an athletic leap, known as a ‘binky‘, when they’re happy — performing twists and kicks in mid air!

5) Rabbits’ eyes are on the sides of their head, meaning they can see almost all the way around them. This helps them to keep a close watch for predators while they’re going about their business!

6) Like cats, happy rabbits purr when they’re content and relaxed.

7) Rabbits are amazing athletes — they can jump as high as 90 centimetres in one leap!

8) A rabbit’s best feature? Their long ears! Growing up to 10 centimetres in length, rabbits can turn their ears by 180 degrees, keeping a careful listen out for predators.

9) One of the world’s best-known rabbits is the Warner Bros cartoon character, Bugs Bunny — who’s often seen munching on a carrot! In fact, carrots aren’t a natural part of a rabbit’s diet and can give bunnies an upset stomach if they eat too many.

10) Rabbits are very effective baby-makers! Mother rabbits are pregnant for between 28-31 days, giving birth to up to 14 baby rabbits – called kittens – in a single litter.

Most Common Rabbit Health Problems:Abscess: Pocket or blister filled with thick white pus.Bladder sludge: Urine is very ...
04/07/2021

Most Common Rabbit Health Problems:

Abscess: Pocket or blister filled with thick white pus.

Bladder sludge: Urine is very thick, like a paste, & dries at a consistency of cake-batter.

Bloat: Rabbit will stop eating/drinking & will become listless, stomach will swell up & become gassy, & will present with constipation or diarrhea.

Broken leg: Injury causing bone to be broken.

Coccidia: May present with constipation or diarrhea with / without presence of mucous, also stops eating/drinking, listless, loss of weight, swelled belly – commonly effects weanlings and older rabbits alike.

Constipation: Bowel blockage causing rabbit to be unable to defecate, may present with swelled belly, lethargy, refusal to eat/drink.

Cuts / Wounds: Due to injury.

Ear mites: Rabbit may shake or scratch at ears, inner ears will have appearance yellow or brownish color substance.

Enteritis (BacterialL or Mucoid): Buildup of gas in stomach, very painful, loss of appetite, diarrhea, dehydration, more common in weanlings beginning to eat pellets, droppings will be covered in jelly-like mucous, may grind teeth &/or squeal from the pain.

Fly strike: Insects lay eggs on damp/wet, soiled, or infectious skin… the eggs hatch.

Fur mites: Appearance of dry skin or dandruff, usually begins at the base of shoulders, but quickly spreads across the body, may have missing patches of fur, rabbits may scratch & may cause sores from scratching.

GI Stasis: Very small or no f***l pellets with possible presence of clear or yellowish mucous, may have swelled stomach, also lethargy, refusal to eat/drink, dehydration, very loud gurgling in stomach – or complete silence (absence of normal gut sounds).

Heat stroke:Caused by excessive heat, usually at or above 85*F, or lack of air/ventilation, difficulty breathing, head tilted up – gasping for air, muzzle may be damp or wet (not always).

Hyptohermia: Low Body Temperature – Below 100* is Serious!

Malocclusion:Teeth are overgrown &/or split.

Mastitis (Cystic or Septic): Presence of cysts in /around teats, alert, bright, and not in pain, may have blood in urine, dehydration and fever.

Pasteurella(Snuffles): Sneezing with discharge from nose &/or eyes, fur on sides of front paws will also often be wet or matted.

Sore hocks: First signs is loss of fur & red skin that will progress to calluses & sores.

Split pen*s:Buck’s ge***al area it will visibly be protruding straight out with a split down the center – as a doe’s ge***als look – but the protrusion is often slightly curved at the end.

Weepy eye: Discharge of one or both eyes, wet fur or loss of fur around eye(s).

Wet dewlap: Does will sometimes drag or lay their dewlap into their water-dishes causing the fur to become wet, which can cause the skin to turn green & have an odor present.

Wool block: Lack of appetite, lethargy, change in f***s – may be presence of several droppings ‘lined’ together resembling string a beads.

Wry neck: Rabbits head will physically twist to one side, this will progress very quickly, will not be able to eat or drink on its own, will not be able to stand / will roll onto its side when it attempts to move eye that is facing downwards will not be able to close

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