Oriel Pet World

12/04/2024

Don't scroll with sending ❤️

11/04/2024

Be kind to animals 😢

11/04/2024

Six months after your dog passes you still can't bear to talk about her. Yet, some may say, she was just a dog.
You reach under your bed and stumble across an old toy of hers and burst into tears. Yet she was just a dog.
After a long and mentally draining day at work. you'd give anything to be able to come home and just cuddle with her. Yet, she was just a dog. Those who have never owned one, will never get it. That dog, was your friend, cuddle buddy, jogging partner,
playmate, anxiety reliever, alarm
clock, guard dog.. etc

11/04/2024

15years together 🥰

11/04/2024

Like this picture and tag a dog lover you know 🤩💕

07/04/2024

“Hell is empty, all the demons are here.”
William Shakespeare

06/04/2024

During the dramatization of the passion of Christ, a puppy can't understand why they hurt him, but he wanted to come closer to comfort him and let him know that he is not alone.

WE REALLY DON'T DESERVE DOGS 🥺

06/04/2024

Found him 😂

05/04/2024

A new-born puppy is not breathing?

*DO THESE*

Some new-born puppies are very weak, especially after a difficult birth. They often have much fluid in their lungs that stops them breathing normally.

So after parturition you have to do these,

1. If the baby is having difficulty breathing, hang it upside down. Rub the chest to make
any fluid in the lungs come out of the nose.

2. Lift the new-born puppy up by the back
legs for a minute or so to let mucus and
fluid drain out from the lungs. You can
hold the back legs of a small animal
and swing it round to make mucus
come out of the nose.

3. Put the new-born puppy over the back
of its mother with its head down to
help fluid drain out from the lungs.

4. Put a piece of dry grass or thread up the baby
Puppy's nose. This makes it cough then
it starts breathing.

5. Make sure the puppy sucks its
mother's teat as soon as possible. When
the mother feels a baby sucking, her
brain releases a hormone called oxytocin
into her blood that makes milk flow
from the udder. It also makes the uterus
contract and push the placenta out.




©Oriel Pet World

14/01/2024

INTRODUCING YOUR DOG TO SMALL ANIMALS: A Step-by-Step Guide
© ORIEL PET WORLD

I recently saw a gruesome video where a dog owner set his German shepherd ablaze, his reason being that the German shepherd dog mauled his cane Corso puppies to death.

introducing dogs to small animals can be scary. Especially for the small animal. It doesn't take much for an adult dog to severely injure a chicken,rabbit or maul a puppy. This post is to explain why a dog might be a danger to small animals, how to prevent issues from arising, and to discuss if it's possible for dogs who are really driven to accept small animals.

We'll begin with what makes dogs want to chase or hurt small animals. It's prey drive. Prey drive is a dog's natural instinct to chase and catch prey. Prey drive is often confused with aggression, but they're only similar at face value. Aggression is driven by fear or social frustration to set the boundaries of relationships and territory. I note this difference to point out that controlling prey drive is a lot easier than trying to work with a dog who is afraid and aggressive out of negative feelings.

There are 3 main ways that the majority of trainers will tell you how to introduce a dog to a smaller animal.

1: Use kennels and child gates so they can smell and get used to each other, slowly introducing them more and more. All while reading their body language, of course.

2: Just letting them meet face to face with the dog on a leash and training collar just in case.

3: Holding the smaller animal close to your body or in your hands so you can quickly use your body to block the dog if they get too excitable.

All three options have pros and cons. Some are a bit riskier than others at the beginning, but in the end, there will be a situation where not much is keeping something bad from happening except a leash or your body. So yes, it is a risk either route you choose take. And personally, I find it advantageous to use a little of all 3 methods.

Start with the dog in the kennel and the small animal in view with you holding it or in its own enclosure. This will help lower the dog's curiosity about this other creature it shares a home with.

Imagine if you had never seen a parrot, rabbit, or whatever the animal, in this case, may be. And the first time you saw one, it was placed in your lap without your consent. It would be overwhelming. You wouldn't know what it was, if it were dangerous or not, or safe to be around, etc.

Don't put your dog in that position. A safe, slow first introduction is the best way to convey to your dog that this exotic new friend is harmless and normal to have around and nothing to get excitable over.

Next, if at all possible, have a second person leash your dog. A loose leash. Adding tension to the line will do the exact opposite of what you want, which is your dog in a calm, relaxed state of mind. The leash is a form of insurance. Your next form of insurance is to have the small animal in your lap or arms. This is a bit risky if it's a cat. You might get scratched if they panic. But with most other animals, everything should be fine.

The leash, plus being able to use your body to body block the animals off from each other if the need should arise, gives you two forms of insurance. Dogs understand the concept of ownership very well. They understand when a female doesn't want them around her puppies, they understand when another dog doesn't want them to touch their food, or toys, or violate their space or territory. Having the small animal close to you and using your body language to communicate that this living creature is yours and isn't to be harassed is a language that does translate.

I've been asked if corrections should be used if a dog gets overly excited. The answer is "it depends." A soft, or low drive, or well-trained dog might respond well to "No." A lot of dogs may get corrected and lower their current drive level, which is pretty much the point of most corrections. But some dogs kick into higher drive when corrected. Or they get defensive, which is worse. So the final verdict on using corrections is: it's your dog, you know it best.

Going back to prey drive, some dogs have so much prey drive they may never be trustworthy around small animals. Or the lengths that one would have to go to are simply too far outside of the average trainer's ability that the average person doesn't have a chance at all. The only thing to do in that scenario is to keep them separated for their own safety indefinitely.

To reduce the risk of that happening, when choosing a puppy, choose one that doesn’t have as much drive and socialize them young. A tactic that owners of livestock guardian breeds know all too well. Also, if corrections are to be used, it's much easier to use mild ones on a young dog than have to give bigger corrections to a 2 or 3-year-old who is already dead set in the mindset that it has to chase and hunt whichever animals you're trying to get them to get along with.

There are so many variables and trains of thought on the subject that a person could spend a year trying different tactics in different ways, and that is a good thing. The more options one familiarizes themselves with, the more likely they are to find one that works for their situation. The most important things are ensuring the safety of both animals and remaining calm and not adding excitement to the mix. So many people will go straight to excited baby talk mode and then wonder why their dog got too excited during a training session. The goal is to be cool, calm, and clearly in charge of what's going on. If the interaction is boring, you did it right.

Continue to aspire to boring, calm interactions and make sure to read the body language of both animals involved. It also helps if you already have a firm grasp on an adult dog's obedience training before attempting to socialize them with other species. If a dog is well trained, a down, out, and recall could make all of the difference in a dicey situation.

I hope that this one can help somebody out there who is concerned about introducing their dog to smaller farm animals, cats, pet birds, etc. The goal here was to give ideas on methods that exist and can be tried more so than a blueprint that will work for everyone and every dog. And in that endeavor, I hope we succeeded. Thank you, and please leave a like and share. And follow my page for more pet info>>>>>> Oriel Pet World

11/01/2024

HOW TO HELP YOUR DOG TRANSITION WHEN YOU MOVE INTO A NEW HOME
© ORIEL PET WORLD

Moving is a stressful time for both humans and animal. Even the most anticipated of moves requires lots of planning, preparation, and hard work. Routines are often temporality tossed aside along with familiar settings.

While some dogs take these changes in stride, other get stressed as they watch their home get packed up, see their furniture vanish, and witness strangers move in and out of their home carrying personal belongings.

On top of it, owners are often physically tired, stretched thin, and very busy trying to coordinate the physical move and handle all the tasks associated with it. Tensions can run high and easily trickle down to the dog.

Despite all this, most dogs handle moving remarkably well. As long as they have their people and familiar household pets with them, they are content to go with the flow and soon adapt to their new digs.

But, there are plenty of things you can do to help your dog transition when you move to a new home, such as:

✓ MAINTAIN THEIR FAMILIAR ROUTINE

Stick to their normal routine, as much as possible. Keep them on their normal feeding, walks, potty breaks, and playtimes, as much as you can. Don’t pack up their bedding, food dishes, leashes, and favorite toys until moving day. Be sure to keep track of them so they can be unpacked as soon as you arrive in your new home.

✓ EASE INTO NEW ROUTINES

If your move will mean a new routine, slowly begin to integrate it, if possible. For instance, if you are moving to a new time zone or starting a new job before you move begin adjusting your dog’s schedule so it’s easier for them to adapt. This might mean feeding them an hour earlier or later, getting them on a new potty schedule, or rearranging their playtime and walking schedule.

✓ ASK A FAMILIAR FRIEND FOR HELP

There will be a lot going on when moving day arrives. It is the time when people are going in and out, boxes are being loaded and unloaded, and the last of the furniture is carried in and out. On this day, you may consider crating your dog or locking them in a room. Both of these solutions can work to help keep your pet safe but are not always ideal for reducing stress. If possible, ask someone who cares about your dog to take care of them that day. Depending on what your dog is used to, that may mean going to your friend’s house, going on an outing, or simply keeping them leashed and occupied at your old and new home.

✓ BOARDING OR DOGGY DAYCARE

If your dog is used to boarding or going to daycare, scheduling a short stay on moving day is also another way to keep your dog safe and secure so you don’t have to worry about them getting lost or agitated by all the commotion.

✓ INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO THEIR NEW HOUSE

Before moving day, you will most likely be going to your new home. If possible, take your dog with you. Let them sniff around the house and yard and take a short walk through the neighborhood. If that isn’t possible, on moving day be sure to keep them leashed and show them around. Ensure that their bed, food dishes, toys, food, etc. are ready for them. Encourage them with praise, treats, and toys so their first impression of their new home is a happy one. It is also a good idea to plan to stay home with your dog for a few days after the move.

✓ CHECK YOUR HOME AND YARD FOR HAZARDS

Be sure to check your home and yard for hazards before letting your dog have free roam. There could be cleaners or other toxins that have been left behind, plants, or even a broken gate lock. Be sure there is no way your dog can escape before letting them outside.

✓ CHANGE YOUR PET’S ADDRESS

Once you arrive at your new home, put new identification tag on your dog. Be sure to update the microchip and pet tracking information. Be sure to give your vet your new address.

✓ TAKE CARE OF THEIR HEALTHCARE BEFORE YOU MOVE

If you will also be getting a new vet, be sure to refill your dog’s medications before moving day. This way there will not be an interruption. If your pet gets sick when stressed or has ever needed antianxiety, antidiarrheals, or prescription food, it may be a good idea to have some on hand.

✓ SPECIAL CARE FOR SENIOR PETS

Older pets often have more trouble adapting, so talking to your vet may be worthwhile before the move. New routines and places can be very stressful for them, especially if they’re not used to going on outings, etc. If you’ll be going to a new vet, be sure to get your pet’s records and make a well-pet appointment to introduce your dog to their new vet before there is a health problem so they know what your dog’s baseline is.

Your dog’s personality and how used they are to new experiences will determine how well they adjust to their new home. Dogs that are used to traveling and staying in new places will probably ease right into their new home. Meanwhile, a dog that never leaves the house will take longer to adjust. Your dog may act up, mark their territory, be more excitable than normal, get nervous, or suffer from anxiety the first few days in their new home. You may also note the relationship between your other pets shift as they vie for a new position in the home.

However, with love and reassurance, the stress of the move will soon be a distant memory and you and your dog will be settled in. We hope you found these tips helpful. As always, please feel free to share with your friends.

And also like my page Oriel Pet World

09/01/2024

Funny dog video compilation

08/01/2024

To all dogs who crossed the rainbow bridge in #2023 , 😢 you'll forever be in our hearts 💔

07/01/2024

Strong message 🐾🐾🐾💕

05/01/2024

NEWS FLASH 🌪️🌪️ …

if you're a PROTECTION DOG trainer that is perfectly OK ( OWN IT) there are definitely some GREAT trainers I know in this our 9ja.
If you're a just DOG BREEDER, no Wahala also, I have met hundreds of fine dog breeders in Lagos only.

….,🌪️but what’s not OK is for you as a protection dog trainer is to take advantage of the general public and pass your dogs off as home , or family pet…
🌪️ Same as breeders who take advantage of the public and sell a dog that lacks proper protection training as a SECURITY DOG

Yes, there are similarities but what’s needed for a security dog is not needed for a family pet dog. Also, the extensive and expensive training that most of the protection trainer's programs consist of IS NOT NEEDED for a family dog

…🌪️ Now to the less knowledgeable, Protection dog stunts looks convincing, it look tough and like the real deal when you see them online...BUT For someone that seek a pet, this can be very expensive AND 80% of it this training/stunt is only needed on the trial field and has no significance to an indoor pet......🌪️ Also, someone who seek a dog for security reasons will be at wrong to buy a dog without adequate training from a breeder because it looks big, appealing and appears fierce .

🌪️🌪️🌪️now CAN a family pet protect you, yes but to an extent
🌪️🌪️🌪️ CAN a security conscious dog be a good family pet, yes but not entirely safe

To conclude, if you need a dog for pet reasons, you do not really need these extra and expensive agility training classes.

And if what you seek is a security dog, you also do not need to go after these over priced pedigree dogs. With the right trainer, even a MUTT can perform beyond expectations.

Know what you want and why you want it before you adopt a dog.

Hopefully many receive some AWARENESS from this post.

05/01/2024

I have seen several dog-related and innovative products, but this one off me.😂
Imagine sitting jejely on your own minding your business and dog poo 💩 drops on your head.

float-a-poo indeed 😂 😂

04/01/2024

Join my WhatsApp Channel for more pet info, training and feeding tips, health awareness and information.

04/01/2024

DIFFERENT DOG VACCINES AND WHY YOUR DOG NEEDS THEM

©ORIEL PET WORLD

Along with regular wellness exams, vaccines can help protect your dog from illness and disease. All healthy dogs should have an annual physical and their vaccines should be kept up-to-date.

Vaccines can help prevent many serious and potentially fatal diseases. Not to mention, in most states, rabies vaccines are required by law. However, some dogs may be deemed exempt from the rabies requirement by a veterinarian. In these cases, the vet must certify in writing that the vaccine would endanger the dog’s health because of age, illness, disability, or other medical situation, such as a severe allergic reaction to a previous vaccine.

If a dog is unvaccinated for rabies and bites a person, an officer can order the dog to be quarantined for a period of at least ten days. Complying with quarantine orders can be stressful for dogs and their owners. But, failure to comply with quarantine orders can result in a hefty fine and even imprisonment. So, it’s best to know the law in your state and country and comply with it.
à

✓ ARE VACCINES SAFE?

Vaccines work by exposing your dog’s immune system to a harmless amount of the potentially dangerous disease. This allows the immune system to practice fighting the disease by creating antibodies. That way, if the pet ever encounters the disease, their immune system will be prepared to fight it off.

There are core vaccines that all dogs should get. There are also additional vaccines that may or may not be beneficial to your dog, depending on your lifestyle or where you live. Your vet can help you decide which vaccines are best for your dog.

✓ CORE VACCINES

The core vaccines include:

√ Rabies
• 1st vaccine at 14 weeks of age
• Annual vaccine every 1 – 3 years, depending on local regulations

√DHPP (distemper, adenovirus (hepatitis), parainfluenza, and parvovirus)
• 1st vaccines at 6-8 weeks
• 2nd vaccine at 12 weeks
• 3rd vaccine at 16 weeks
• Annual vaccines every 1 – 2 years

✓ NON-CORE VACCINES

The non-core vaccines include:

√Bordetella Bronchiseptica
• 1st vaccine at 8 weeks
• 2nd vaccine at 12 weeks
• 3rd vaccine at 16 weeks
• Boosters every 1-2 years

√Leptospirosis
• 1st vaccine 10-12 weeks
• 2nd vaccine 16-18 weeks
• 3rd vaccine 12-16 months
• Boosters every 1-2 years

√Lyme Disease (Borrelia Burgdorferi)
• 1st vaccine at 10-12 weeks
• 2nd vaccine at 16-18 weeks
• 3rd vaccine 12-16 months
• Boosters every 1-2 years

Vaccines are an important part of your dog’s wellness plan. Without vaccines, your dog is at risk of some serious diseases. However, non-core vaccines are not needed by every dog, depending upon where your life and your lifestyle.

Your vet can help you decide which vaccines are right for your pet. A brief description of the diseases vaccines can help protect your dog from are below, which may help you decide if your dog is at risk for any of them.

✓ RABIES

The rabies virus is a deadly virus spread through the bite and possibly scratch (if it contains saliva) of an infected animal. Skunk, fox, raccoon, coyote, and bat are the primary sources of infection. Rabies vaccines must be given before a dog is infected and before the virus enters the bloodstream. There is no treatment for dogs suspected of having rabies. All unvaccinated dogs must be quarantined for 10 days to rule out a rabies infection. Dogs with rabies will be euthanatized. Humans exposed to rabies must undergo an immunoglobulin (antibody) promptly, followed by a series of painful vaccines. Prevention is always the best cure.

✓ DISTEMPER

Canine distemper is a contagious airborne virus that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems of puppies and dogs. It is a serious disease that is spread by coughing and sneezing, as well as by shared food and water bowls, toys, and other items. Infected dogs can shed the virus for months, and mother dogs can pass the virus through the placenta to their puppies. Distemper is often fatal and can be spread to and by wildlife.

✓ PARVOVIRUS

Parvovirus is a deadly virus that is spread through direct or indirect contact. Puppies are very vulnerable to this virus and have a very high mortality rate. Parvo is everywhere and hard to kill in the environment and can spread very easily. Dogs can be exposed anytime they sniff, lick, or consume infected f***s. Parvo can be spread through petting by a person who has recently been exposed to an infected dog. It can also be spread when a puppy encounters contaminated soil, food dishes, toys, collars, leashes, shoes, clothes, etc. of people who have come in contact with an infected dog or have picked it up in the environment.

✓ ADENOVIRUS

Adenovirus, also known as infectious hepatitis, is a virus that causes inflammation of the liver in canines and other symptoms, such as fever, decreased appetite, fatigue, nasal discharge, and cough. It is most often spread through direct contact with infected animals. Symptoms can be similar to kennel cough and can be serious. The disease can be fatal in young puppies and dogs with a serious case and there is no cure. Treatment involves helping to relieve severe symptoms.

✓ PARAINFLUENZA

Parainfluenza is a highly contagious airborne virus that has similar symptoms to influenza but is related to canine distemper. It is highly contagious and coughing and nasal discharge is the most common symptom. Some dogs with parainfluenza can also have Bordetella, adenovirus, and pneumonia at the same time, which can make them very sick.

✓ BORDETELLA

Bordetella is a contagious respiratory disease caused by bacteria. It is also referred to as kennel cough, upper respiratory infection, or infectious tracheobronchitis. It is spread through air droplets and by close contact with other dogs. It can be picked up anywhere but is most often spread in kennels, daycares, dog parks, places where dogs congregate, etc. Symptoms of Bordetella include sneezing, nasal discharge, congestion, and coughing.

✓ LEPTOSPIROSIS

Leptospirosis is a serious bacterial infection that can also spread to humans. There are multiple strains of the bacteria called Leptospira that can cause leptospirosis. Lepto bacteria can survive for weeks or months in the environment and thrive in wet and warm climates, especially during late summer and fall. Rain makes Lepto easier to spread. The most common way dogs get Lepto is through puddles, ponds, or lakes that have been contaminated with the urine of infected animals, including rodents and livestock. It can also be spread through contaminated bedding, food, and soil. Lepto can be serious because it makes prevents blood from clotting normally. The bacteria can also spread to the liver and kidneys. Symptoms can range from mild to severe and sometimes become life-threatening.

✓ LYME DISEASE

Lyme disease is a bacterial infection spread through the bite of infected black-legged ticks, such as deer ticks. It can affect humans and canines. In dogs, Lyme disease can cause fever, lameness, swollen lymph nodes, joint swelling, fatigue, loss of appetite, general discomfort, malaise, stiffness, and sensitivity to touch. It can also cause serious kidney problems and difficulty breathing, which is a medical emergency.

Along with core vaccines, you can your vet should decide on your pet’s risk for other diseases and what vaccines could be beneficial. Vaccines are a great way to help protect your dog from a serious illness. Your vet is also a great resource to keep you informed of disease outbreaks in your local community.

If you enjoyed this article or learned anything helpful, please leave a like and share it with others. Thank you!

Follow my page >>> Oriel Pet World

01/01/2024

01/01/2024

Walk with people who are on the same mission as you 🤞

01/01/2024

When you lied in your resume 😂

01/01/2024

HOW TO HELP YOUR DOG LOSE WEIGHT THE HEALTHY WAY

©ORIEL PET WORLD

Having a fat dog does not mean you have a pedigree dog neither does it connote a healthy dog status. Being overweight is unhealthy for all dogs. It can shorten their life and put them at higher risk of disease. But for larger dogs, maintaining a healthy weight is very important for several reasons.

Dogs are social animals, most of them are a very active canine with athletes spirit that live to run, chase, play, and work. Being overweight can slow them and make rigorous activity uncomfortable for them. It also puts them at a higher risk of injury.

Maintaining a healthy weight is particularly important for dogs suffering from hip or elbow dysplasia, joint disease, diseases of the spine, and other orthopedic problems so that their physical problems don’t get worse.

DANGERS OF CANINE OBESITY

Dogs of all ages and breeds suffering from canine obesity are at a higher risk of health problems such as:

✓ Hip and elbow dysplasia
✓ Arthritis
✓ Injuries
✓ Cancer
✓ Diabetes
✓ Skin disease
✓ Heart disease
✓ High blood pressure
✓ Bladder stones
✓ Pancreatitis
✓ Shortened life span

Some health problems can even lead to obesity in dogs. So, if you’re dog suddenly starts putting on weight for no reason, it’s a good idea to visit a vet to rule out:

• Underactive thyroid (hypothyroidism)
• Cushing’s disease


HOW DO I KNOW IF MY DOG IS OVERWEIGHT?

You can tell if your pet is obese by performing a Body Condition Score (BCS). Their BCS can tell you if they are at their ideal weight or if they need to lose a few pounds. The BCS rates your dog’s condition on a scale of 1 to 5:

1. Very thin-the dog’s ribs are visible, there is no fat around the ribs, and boney prominences are also visible with no sign of fat.

2. Underweight-there is little fat covering the ribs and ribs can be seen without having to touch the dog.

3. Ideal-the dog’s ribs can be felt but there is a slight layer of fat/padding over them. Boney prominences also have a slight layer of fat.

4. Overweight-Ribs and boney areas are hard to feel under a layer of fat.

5. Obese-Ribs are difficult to find. Naturally, body areas, such as the knees, are covered with a thick layer of fat.


HOW CAN I HELP MY DOG LOSE WEIGHT?

Once you know that your dog needs to lose a few pounds, you can help them lose the healthy way, which is through diet and exercise. If your dog is overweight or obese, it’s a good idea to get help from your vet.

✓ DIET

Diet is important. And, with all the weight loss advice on the Internet, it’s important to consider where you’re getting your information. Trendy diet advice, like the green bean diet (half kibble/half green beans) is often shared on social media but actually is not healthy for weight loss. Overweight and especially aging dogs need as many nutrients as they can get but show be feed with low or no fat foods.

Choosing the right weight loss food is also important because protein helps stimulate the metabolism and prevents muscle wasting. Its protein and fiber also help to keep dogs fueled and feeling full. While decreasing calories is important, remember that dogs have basic nutrient requirements.
Your vet can help you figure out how many calories your pet needs a day for maintenance and weight loss and once you know this, you can adjust the amounts you’re feeding of your current food. But if that doesn’t work, a food formulated for weight loss is the next best step.

When choosing a food, read the label and compare the calories of your current food. You may consider a prescription diet. Weight loss foods will probably have fewer calories and fat per cup than your current food. They also have great feeding guidelines on the label. Weighing rather than using a measuring cup is also a more accurate way to count calories.

When you figure out your dog’s caloric needs versus how many they are eating, you may be surprised that you don’t have to reduce or change food, but rather only need to cut back on treats
✓EXERCISE

Staying active is important to help keep your dog fit and at a healthy weight. But, for dogs needing to lose, that’s not always easy. Often overweight dogs have issues going on that have caused them to limit their activity and gain weight in the first place.

Always talk to your vet about exercise concerns. But sticking with an easy exercise regimen may be your best bet while they slowly get back in shape. Things like letting them set their own pace during playtime, short walk multiple times per day, a physical therapy routine, and even swimming are all fun, light-impact activities.

Be mindful of your dog’s physical limitations. Added body weight contributes to injuries and if your dog gets hurt, it’s going to make things worse and result in even more weight gain plus added pain. Slow and steady will help them lose and build endurance. Suddenly forcing them to be a weekend warrior is a bad idea.

We hope you find these weight loss tips helpful. Please talk to your vet about weight loss concerns. As always, please feel free to share with your friends follow my page >>> Oriel Pet World





PHOTO CREDIT 📸: Dm for credit or removal