Coatesville Dog Training

12/08/2021

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SURVEY TIME!

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Coatesville Dog Training is a new, boutique dog training business, covering the Rodney area. This 6-Question survey aims to gather information to define YOUR dog training needs and preferences. Completing this survey does NOT include a commitment to purchase - I seek market information to inform my....

04/08/2021

I could not put this any better....

Let’s set the scene. This may become a bit sensitive for some, and I apologise in advance.

You’re out somewhere. You might be at a restaurant, a bar, a public park on a sunny day enjoying the sunshine with your family. It may be that you’re on your way home from work or trying to catch the bus. You’re just minding your own business.

Suddenly, a person comes straight up to you. They give you anxiety. What is this person going to do? I don’t know! The person is walking with a friend and the friend sees you’re a bit anxious and calls out to you saying “Don’t stress, she/he’s all good!’’ But they keep approaching you. And when they finally reach you they randomly hug you. Touch you. Walk circles around you. Start talking to you. Don’t let you leave.

What would you call that? Harassment? Assault in severe cases?
How would this make you feel?

Now, after the initial shock you find your courage and you ask the person to go away. Leave you alone. But the person doesn’t stop and instead touches your arm or your hair. “Oh come on, we’re alright. I’m not doing anything bad I’m friendly! Just let me be around you.’’You get upset and might push the person. Shout at them. If you’re a bit more of an assertive person you might punch them. Who knows.
Then the person and the friend get upset. Well? WHY are you here then? What are you doing in this public space if you don’t like being around other people? You have no business to be here, minding your own business in this park with your family without allowing me to sit with you, play with you, touch you, talk to you. Actually, you know what you should do? You should be more social! You should go more often to random groups of people.

_______
Do you see what I did there?
If you thought any of the above situation is not okay (and I sure as heck hope you do), then why do we think it’s okay to let dogs run up to strange dogs and say ‘It’s okay he’s friendly’?

What we do in the dog world is the exact opposite what we should be doing. We label the harassed dog as aggressive and the harassing dog as the victim.

Dogs have emotions. They have feelings. They have their own characters and personalities. There are many, many dogs that are not interested in making new friends or being with dogs they don’t know they can trust.

And sure, some dogs love playing with other dogs. Those are the extraverted dogs. Just like we have people that LOVE hugging or love making new friends even as adults, but to be honest.. how many of those people do you know? I think if you put it into a % its lower than the people that rather just are with their select group of people and be left alone by random strangers in public spaces.

So don’t assume the dog your dog is running towards on the beach, is willing to play with your dog. Being in a public space means you need to have your dog under effective control. And if you can’t call your dog back, it should be on a long line until you can.

——-

In case you’re interested.. after quite a few requests I made a video version of this blog as well.

Your dog is NOT friendly, he's harassing others
https://youtu.be/YlWf02MHKCo

20/05/2021

Dog Diet: Kibble

There is no argument that feeding kibble (prepared dried biscuits) is very convenient to serve and store.

But how do you know it is healthy? There are so many types available, including grain free options.

I encourage my clients who opt to feed a dry (kibble) diet to buy the best quality kibble they can afford.

Check out local pet food companies online and delivered. I use www.pet.co.nz and a 10kg bag of my preferred kibble, delivered to my home, on a recurring 6 week basis, saves me about $30-40 per BAG, compared with an instore, over counter purchase.

When choosing a kibble, discuss with your vet, breeder or previous owner what the puppy/dog is currently eating. You don't need to use the same but do find out why the breeder/previous owner opted for the diet they did.

If your dog has allergies, knowing what to avoid, and what symptoms to be aware of, is important information to have.

Okay, so now that you've narrowed it down to 2 or 3 brands - what's next? Checking the ingredients table on the rear of the packaging.

Add the protein, fat, moisture and ash percentage amounts together. Subtract that number from 100. What is left is the carbohydrate component.

Poor quality kibble brands tend to have a high level of carbohydrates - it acts as a 'filler' and is usually the cheapest ingredient, which is why it tends to be a high proportion of the product.

As a rough guide, the higher the carbohydrate, the lower the quality. Supermarket brands tend to be 60-70% carbohydrate. Anything under 40% carbohydrate is better.

The first ingredient shown in the ingredients list is always the largest, followed by the second, all the way down to the least. Quality brands tend to show percentage of ingredients too.

See something you don't understand or an ingredient you've never heard of? Use a reliable search engine to check what it is and the benefit.

Other considerations may include:

Size of the kibble
Additives, preservatives, colours used
Reliable manufacturer
Reviews online
Packaging
Country of Origin vs Country of Manufacture
Ingredients ethically sourced
Date manufactured
Best By Date
Amount needed to feed your dog RDI
Puppy, Adolescent, Adult, Senior available within same range

Always ensure your dog has ample clean water. Dogs tend to drink more on kibble diets, than raw.

As previously mentioned, I provide fresh, raw bones, for teeth cleaning benefits.

The occasional can of sardines or mackerel (served in water, not oil) provides a tasty topping on kibble, but reduce the amount of kibble served in that meal by at least a third.

19/05/2021

Dog Diet: Raw - PART 2 of 2

Vegetables for Essential Nutrients.

Adding vegetables to a raw dog diet can help to create a balanced diet, through addition of essential nutrients.

However, some vegetables and fruits are HARMFUL to dogs, even poisonous. Do you know which ones? Check with your vet before feeding a raw diet, that includes vegetables and fruit.



Dogs can digest and absorb the nutrients from vegetables, when they are prepared in a method to support optimal digestion.

Puréeing raw, non-starchy vegetables is the easiest and recommended method of serving vegetables to your dog.

If starchy vegetables are selected, they must be thoroughly cooked (boiled, steamed) before feeding, in order for starch to become digestible for dogs.



It is correct to say that vegetables and fruit are not needed for essential nutrients, but they do play a beneficial role in completing nutritional requirements.

Vegetables and fruit provide carbohydrates which can be used as a source of energy as well as fiber to support vitamin K synthesiation and colon health.



Vegetables and fruit contain carotenoids, flavonoids, antioxidants, and other phytochemicals that are beneficial to immune function and health. These phytochemicals are not found in any other food sources other than vegetables.



ALWAYS discuss raw diet options with your vet before commencing.

19/05/2021

Dog Diet: Raw - PART 1 of 2

If you opt to feed a raw diet, please discuss with your vet before commencing.

How much to feed is dependent upon dog age (puppy, adolescent, adult, senior) and weight. This post is an overview only and each dog's needs will be individual.

The daily amount to feed a dog is calculated in grams, usually divided into two meals.

Seek vet advice and do your own research from independent, reliable sources.



There are two types of raw dog diet, BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) and PMR (Prey Model Raw). This post deals with BARF as it is the most common.

BARF consists of raw muscle meat and raw meaty bones, offal, vegetables, seeds/nuts and fruits. No processed foods are included.

A dog who is fed ONLY raw meat, bought from a supermarket, butcher or frozen raw food supplier, risks being nutritionally deficient. This may result in serious illness, behavioural issues and poor condition.

Below details the Recommended Daily Intake according to BARF Guidelines. I provide this information for those considering a raw diet for their dog but reiterate see your vet first.



BARF GUIDELINES
The Recommended Daily Intake (RDI) guidelines for a BARF diet consists of 70% muscle meat, 10% raw edible bone, 7% vegetables, 10% offal, 2% seeds/nuts and 1% fruit.

Muscle Meat - 70% RDI
Raw muscle meat provides essential protein, amino acids, and water-soluble vitamins.

Muscle Meat should contain saturated fat.

Protein Types include:
Chicken
Turkey
Duck
Lamb
Beef
Rabbit
Venison
Salmon and Oily Fish
Kangaroo
Possum
Pork
Tongue
Fillet cuts
Cheek cuts
Green Tripe

Raw Edible Bone - 10% RDI
Soft, raw edible bones provides essential calcium, phosphorous and other essential nutrients. Avoid feeding weight bearing bones, as they can splinter. Includes Wings, Necks, Carcass, Feet or Ribs.

The amount of raw meaty bones a dog needs, to maintain firm and consistent stool, will vary. The 10% ratio is a starting guideline. Always adjust according to your vet's advice and dog’s individual needs.

Vegetables - 7% RDI
Vegetables provide essential nutrients and beneficial phytochemicals. (See next post for indepth notes on this area).

Offal - 10% RDI
Provides essential minerals, fat-soluble Vitamin A and water-soluble vitamins. Five percent (5%) should be Liver, the remaining 5% from Kidney, Spleen, Brains, Testicles and Pancreas.

Note: For dogs who are sensitive to organs, feeding as low as 2% will still provide the benefits.

Seeds & Nuts - 2% RDI
Provides essential minerals, fatty acids, and fat-soluble vitamins. Must be pre-soaked and ground before feeding.

Raw nuts and seeds contain phytates that can negatively affect nutritional balance. Soaking raw seeds and nuts reduce phytates and grinding promotes digestion. More or less can be fed to complete nutritional requirements.

Fruit - 1%
Provides antioxidants but fed in small amounts due to natural sugar levels. Some fruit is not suitable for dogs - check with your vet.

Part 2 will cover Vegetables (wholefoods) separately.

19/05/2021

DOG DIET: To Raw or Not to Raw

Full Disclosure. I don't feed my dog 100% raw mostly due to not having the freezer space. I do provide raw bones to assist with removing tartar from teeth and engagement. He enjoys having a good chew and it reinforces calmness.

There is increasing scientific research about the benefits of raw diets and some clients feed raw.

I have been reading, researching, upskilling and talking with NZ kibble manufacturers, as well as raw dog food suppliers. I have also been in touch with Massey University experts.

I have NO specific opinion. It is a personal owner choice, based on what suits their dog, their situation and their lifestyle.

But I DO advise clients to thoroughly check your dog food ingredients, kibble or raw.

The next two posts will provide advice on how to do this. Raw and kibble will be in separate posts.

Be informed and make the best decision for you and your dog.

18/05/2021

Get What You Ask For.

If you ask for DOWN but your dog gives SIT instead, it is vital you get what you ask for.

Otherwise you are reinforcing that your dog gets to choose its response - and setting it up to fail.

ALWAYS Get What You Ask For.

Message us for a private 1:1 session at your home to help with your dog's Foundations training.

18/05/2021

PART ONE - DOWN, at DISTANCE.

We practice DOWN, at distance, at random times during our walks.

This means that when we need M to DOWN, perhaps in an emergency situation, we have trained for it. And he is prepared and ready.

We are not Obedience competitors so I want M to DOWN, but you will note he almost always turns to face me. I don't need him to drop like a stone.

But if you ask for DOWN, and your dog does SIT instead, ALWAYS ensure you get what you ask for. Or you are reinforcing to your dog that he can blow you off, any time he likes.

Book a 1:1 session for a home visit to get the Foundations sorted so you and your dog are prepared for any situation.

18/05/2021

PART 2 - DOWN at DISTANCE

This is the exact situation we practice for.

Cyclists are approaching and M is put into a DOWN, at distance from me, so the cyclists can pass, without worry, and M is SAFE.

We did this several times during our walk with different groups of cyclists, and every cyclist group called out "Thank You!"

This is the least we should do - keep our off lead dogs, under control. And SAFE.

This all starts with Hand Feeding, The Art of Attention, Lead Walking 101 and ensuring the Foundations are bedded in.

Get in touch for a 1:1 session with your dog. We come to you.

16/05/2021

The Art of Doing Nothing.

Following on from The Fuss Challenge - only fuss your dog calmly for the behaviours you want repeated again and again - this post is about beginning to teach The Art of Doing Nothing.

Too often I am called to deal with dogs who have Reactivity issues. There are many causes for Reactivity and the solution has to be specific to the dog and the situation... but one leading cause is that the dog has not been taught to switch off.

Aka The Art of Doing Nothing.

A dog needs to be taught to switch off and relax. This is the first step in having a dog that will be relaxed anywhere - such as a cafe, pub, school gate, on the ferry, outside a store, in the car, waiting in the vet's room etc.

Below is a short video of M at Rush Worth Cafe, North Wharf, this week. He is lying peacefully beside our table, ignoring foot traffic, waitstaff delivering to our table, other dogs, children and prams. This is The Art of Doing Nothing in the Real World.

A lot of dogs, from a young age, are not left alone, in a space of their own, where they can learn to switch off.

For young puppies or new dogs, I always crate train. It replicates a dog 'den' and means they can relax fully, knowing they are completely safe here. It is NOT puppy prison, as I have seen some trainers refer to it.

It is a sanctuary.

It is VITAL that a puppy/dog is IGNORED when in the crate. If an owner, family member, visitor or child, constantly interacts with a puppy/dog in its crate, it will not learn to relax, sleep and/or switch off. This is the best way to create a reactive dog.

First Rule: when your dog is in his crate, LEAVE HIM ALONE.

Follow this page for the second installment of training The Art of Doing Nothing.

16/05/2021

In NZ, the dried jerky treats referred to in this article are sold under VitaPet and Yours Drooly brand, imported by MasterPet.

I agree with Nick Cave that dogs should be trained with their daily food allowance, which should be high quality ie NOT bought at a supermarket!

https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/125032928/the-pet-treats-that-might-do-more-harm-than-good-dog-experts-advise-caution

Calls for better labelling and regulation to help pet owners know about possible risks of certain dog treats.

12/05/2021

Can you trust your dog around stock?

Another lambing/calving season approaching..and more incidents likely of dogs running amongst stock, with devastating consequences.

Do you know your responsibilities, as a Dog Owner?

Here is some links to the Dog Control Act 1996 (DCA 1996).

And, no, ignorance of the law regarding dog ownership is not a defence to infringements or charges being laid.



It is a dog owner's responsibility, under the DCA 1996, to ensure their dog must not be able to freely leave the owner's property.

https://www.legislation.govt.nz/act/public/1996/0013/latest/DLM375198.html

This is the first step. You must ensure your property is secure. If not the whole property, then a suitable section from which your dog 'cannot freely leave'.



Did you know it is an offense for your dog to run amongst stock? It does not have to be actively attacking stock for there to be a breach of the Act:

https://www.legislation.govt.nz/act/public/1996/0013/latest/DLM375419.html



Is it just stock (ie pigs, chickens, cattle, sheep) that the DCA 1996 refers to?

No, it also covers dogs rushing at people, other animals (including horses) and vehicles.
https://www.legislation.govt.nz/act/public/1996/0013/latest/DLM375413.html



If you have secure fencing for your dog, but are still concerned about it rushing at or among stock, other people, other dogs, other animals or vehicles, send me a message with the details and I will be in touch to arrange a 1:1 session with you.

12/05/2021

Beautiful autumn off lead walk with M. How gorgeous is that carpet of leaves?!

12/05/2021

Fussing Your Dog Challenge.

How you fuss (stroke) your dog can have a significant impact on future behavioural issues.

Stroking (fussing) a dog is just that to a human - but to a dog, it is a whole conversation/interaction, from which the dog is learning.

If you fuss a puppy when it jumps up on you, family member, a guest or passerby, you are reinforcing that behaviour, jumping. The dog thinks 'JUMP = FUSS' which is an endorphin (pleasure) rush for your dog. So they repeat the behaviour/s again, always looking for that fuss and attention.

But when they grow bigger (or out of their cute puppy phase), we then growl /yell at them when they jump up, for the very behaviour they were previously being rewarded for.

So now they are confused and this confusion creates anxiety in your dog.

The ensuing behavioural issues are something that owners have to take responsibility for. The dog has been set up to fail through inconsistency.

I often see clients who fuss their dogs the wrong way round too - and by trying to rub the dog's face off! Reward only the behaviours you want.

How we fuss, what we fuss and the energy we put into it, will all be mirrored in our dog's behaviour.

If you fuss calmly, you are much more likely to keep the dog calm.

If you fuss excitedly, you are much more likely to create an excited (over stimulated) dog.

The Golden Rule is... Only fuss what you want to ENCOURAGE/ASK FOR and in the WAY in which you want the dog to respond.

Put even more simply, only fuss if it is a behaviour that you want the dog to repeat again, and again, and again.

Try this.

For a whole weekend, ONLY fuss your dog when it does something you ask it to. (Note: do not fuss behaviours that you have NOT asked for, even good ones, just those you have directed).

Call/recall it to you. Fuss calmly.
Ask your dog to SIT. Fuss calmly.
Put your dog in a DOWN. Fuss calmly.
Waiting at a threshold (door). Fuss calmly.
After clipping on its lead. Fuss calmly.

Make it a calm but good fuss - not an absent minded, one off stroke. Talk to your dog, look at it, fuss it and count to 10.

BUT, if your dog is following you from room-to-room, being pushy, needy, barking, whining DO NOT FUSS IT. Give it something else to do - or put it into its' crate/bed so it can calm down.

Try this for a weekend and see how much calmer your dog is, and attentive to you. Your dog will begin to offer you the behaviours you want/ask for, in order to receive a fuss.

Let me know how it goes - and get in touch via messenger if you would like a 1:1 session to work with your dog on this.

In the meantime, watch the short video below. Note how I 'fuss' M after he has recalled to me, then followed by the command 'MIDDLE' (safe position, between my legs).

02/05/2021

M is at a DOWN while I walk off to the nearest bin, to drop of his poo bag. You will note that he keeps his concentration on me - not on other dogs and people on the beach - then recall and straight to a SIT when he reaches me.

Good recall starts at home, with solid foundations and Art of Attention. Without those, Recall will always be a struggle.

Send me a message if this is an area you and your dog would like help with.

29/04/2021

Dog Socialisation Myth

Letting your dog greet any and every dog and person it passes is NOT dog socialisation.

It is setting you AND your dog up for a lifetime of stress.

Think about it.

How often do wolves go and meet up with other packs?

How many prides go and meet up with other lions?

How many wild horse herds go and meet up with other horses?

They don't. Because they will be attacked or even killed. It is NOT their 'family'.

So you don't need your dog to meet and greet every other dog either...they are not their 'family'.

Teaching your dog to ignore other dogs and people is much safer and less stressful for your dog.

Your dog will not become reactive, because it is not being put in stressful situations that means your dog has to react, it has been trained that other dogs and people are none of its business, and your dog has absolute trust that YOU will take charge of any adverse situation, so it doesn't have to.

And that's a much happier and healthier situation for you AND your dog.

Send a message if you would like a 1:1 session on correct socialisation and counter conditioning.

Send a message to learn more