Freestyle SportHorse Stud

Freestyle SportHorse Stud Freestyle Sport Horses, the perfect place for you and your horse, to achieve your equine dreams. Breaking in, ground work, flat work, jumping, you name it!

offering our service of training all horses in their various disciplines. Aiming to give you riders the best possible chance at achieving your dreams for your equestrian career.

04/12/2024

Behaviour is communication šŸ’”ļæ¼

10/11/2024

This šŸ‘‡

Something to consider
29/10/2024

Something to consider

Jumping on a bandwagon! Becks Nairn and I were discussing this the other day and definitely gives food for thoughtā€¦

There are so many bandwagons to jump on your spoilt for choice! šŸ˜‰
Itā€™s amazing that we have access to so much information in every facet of horse keeping as well as the people out there keeping the research flowing in from all directions. It can be bloody overwhelming at times canā€™t it? If your ever questioning an aspect of your horse knowledge youā€™ll sure as hell find information to support what your doing and ease your worry. On the flip side youā€™ll find just as much information to support the fact your doing it all completely wrong. How comforting!! šŸ˜…šŸ’ā€ā™€ļø

I think the biggest risk with all the information out there is when it comes in a cult like format. The cult will enrol people to jump on their bandwagon and shun the people who donā€™t comply. This very closed minded approach comes with risk! The risk of being shut off to knowledge or options that you or your horse may really need.

I also believe we often want to be apart of something that is bigger than ourselves. It gives us a wee sense of identity to associate ourselves with a method or group of people who believe in a particular way. You get support of like-minded people and it feels very inclusive once your ā€œinā€. I totally get that! šŸ™‹ā€ā™€ļø

Itā€™s to easy to think of a float load of examples of bandwagons in the equine worldā€¦

Hereā€™s a very easy example. Barefoot vs Shoes - itā€™s not a secret that I used to have my horses solely barefoot. Shoeing (especially nailing steal shoes) was an absolute crime against horse welfare! I was very much of the barefoot bandwagon. I began to come across horses that struggled barefoot or never seemed to follow the healing journey of barefoot trimming (there are alot of factors that need to line up to have a horse truely sound barefoot that are often out of the trimmers control) I started to look at alternatives. Beginning to learn the art of glueing and nailing on composite shoes has been a game changer for some of my horses.
Shoeing is not the devil - bad shoeing is. Barefoot is not neglect - badly managed barefoot is neglect.

Another one close to my heart is the Classical dressage vs modern dressage debateā€¦ some classical trainers can be so die-hard classical they maybe close doors for people to learn alternatives that truely benefit their horses way of going. Iā€™ve recently had lessons with what youā€™d say is more a modern dressage approach but Iā€™ve taken away some really really valuable learnings.
Modern or classical dressage is not abuse - poorly executed dressage is abuse.

Then there is the bitless and the bitted communitiesā€¦ The ba****ck pad/treeless saddle or the treed saddle communitiesā€¦ The anti rug brigade or the rug hoarding addictsā€¦ It extends to bodywork, the age we start our horses, the way we feed, worm, vaccinateā€¦ the list is endless really.

I honestly believe the best mindset is to remain open to learning. Being closed minded and shut off to alternatives is the biggest mistake you could make because donā€™t know what you donā€™t know.

I am NOT trying to illustrate that there is never a wrong and right thing to do in a given situation and that you should let people talk you into trying things that absolutely do not sit right with you. There will always be things in your heart of hearts that stand very true for you. But rather be open to learning and listening. Decide for yourself what is best for you and your horse once you have all the information at hand.

Moral of the storyā€¦
Be teachable. You are not always right.

Sam xx

24/10/2024
Some good advice, it can happen
20/09/2024

Some good advice, it can happen

If your horse is showing any signs that *could* be laminitis, it is safest to treat it as laminitis. There are other things that could cause these symptoms, but catching laminitis as fast as possible can make a big difference, and it wonā€™t hurt even if it turns out to be something else.

āš ļø Warning signs:
- Not as forward as usual
- Stiffness turning
- Footsore after a trim when the usually wouldnā€™t be
- Sensitivity over surfaces that isnā€™t normal for them
- Grumpiness and reluctance
- Redness in the whiteline
- Pinkness growing in in the hoof wall (visible in white feet)
- Sudden foot soreness in both fronts/all feet
- A bounding digital pulse
- Heat in the hooves

Depending on severity, remove completely from grass and soak hay, or for minor cases reduce grass and increase hay. Talk to your hoof care provider and vet for advice.

ANY horse can have laminitic inflammation, young or old, fat or thin, big or small and any breed.

Severely washed out soles, or abscesses in both fronts (yep, it can happen!) can also cause some of these symptoms, but it is always safest to treat as laminitis until proven otherwise.

09/09/2024
11/07/2024

Edit: We have found our team! Thank you so much!

We are still looking for another part time foal watcher!

We are a Boutique Equine Breeding facility located in Matangi just outside Hamilton. We are looking for a reliable individual who has horse handling experience to come and do Foal watch from August until the end of December - possible extension until the end of February depending on the number of mares booked in.

The hours required are from 10 to 11pm to around 6am. Days of the week can vary and we are happy to work around you and more than happy to leave Friday and Saturday nights free.

Tasks Required:
Actively watching the in foal mares and contacting manager once the mare starts to foal (phone supplied)
Mucking out stables throughout the night of any boxed mares (3 stables maximum)
Refilling hay nets and waters as required throughout the night of any boxed mares
Cleaning and stocking up of the foaling kit as required
Giving any medications as required
Making morning feeds
Reporting to the Manager at the start and end of shift
Accurately and reliably record keeping throughout the night
Experience and Skills Required:
Full drivers license and own car - this is essential as we are unable to pick up and drop off
Legally allowed to work in NZ
Must be at least 18yo
Experience working with and handling horses - this is an absolute essential skill to have as we are unable to do on the job training.
Reliability
Punctuality
Attention to Detail
Be available for up to 5 nights a week once peak season hits
Be able to work independently
Bonus Skills:
Previous Foal Watch Experience
Being able to do data entry on slower nights to help maintain records

If you are interested, please email your CV and a Cover letter to [email protected]

07/07/2024

Licking and chewing is probably the most misunderstood and ambiguous behavior in horses, being very often mistaken for the moment when horses relax or focus on what is being done, as if it was something good to aim at. In reality, licking and chewing is a sort of involuntary reaction being activated by the attenuation of a stressful situation. This process is well explained by Dr. Sue McDonnell, animal behaviorist and founder of the Equine Behavior Program at the School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania, who clarifies that the action of licking and chewing simply reflects the transition from a sympathetic nervous system response to a parasympathetic nervous system one. In fact when horses are relaxed and engaged in normal activities such as eating or resting, their parasympathetic nervous system is the one being in control, with it being the part of the nervous system that is responsible for each activity occurring when the body is at rest, like sexual arousal, salivation, tear production, urination, digestion, defecation and so on. But when instead horses feel threatened or severely stressed by something, then their nervous system switches to an alert or fight-or-flight mode with the sympathetic nervous system, that is the system being in charge of regulating and activating any reflexes and reactions about pain, fear or confusion. So, when the stimuli that had activated the sympathetic system is finally resolved because the stressful moment is over, then the parasympathetic system comes back in control again and the relaxation returns. Well, horses show some observable behavioral signs of this shift just by licking and chewing, sometimes swallowing too: this happens precisely when the shift from the sympathetic to the parasympathetic system occurs, because when the sympathetic system is activated salivation stops and consequently the mouth and lips dry quickly, while when the unpleasant moment subsides and calm returns, then salivation comes back too. Consequently licking and chewing is precisely that simple involuntary response to deal with the resumption of salivation after a period of dryness of the mouth and lips. So whenever we see horses doing it we should ask ourselves why they are doing this, being aware of the fact that they have just been put in a difficult concerning situation, as their licking and chewing is just the sign of them going from a high level of stress to a slightly lower one, as a sort of relief: not something to aim at, but just something to possibly avoid by trying as much as possible not to make them experience any highly stressful situation.

Ā²

I thought this was worth a share šŸ™ŒšŸ»
02/07/2024

I thought this was worth a share šŸ™ŒšŸ»

15/06/2024

Thisā¤ļø

šŸ˜‚šŸ„‚
18/05/2024

šŸ˜‚šŸ„‚

Happy motherā€™s mareā€™s day ā¤ļøā¤ļø
12/05/2024

Happy motherā€™s mareā€™s day ā¤ļøā¤ļø

Good reading
16/03/2024

Good reading

šŸŒæšŸŒ± THE LOW DOWN ON SHORT VS LONG GRASS FOR HORSESšŸŒ±šŸŒæ

Equine nutrition has progressed in leaps and bounds these past few years. I am pleasantly surprised at how quickly things are moving in the right direction.

That said, I still hear people talk about how they want their horse to lose weight so they put it in a paddock with, ā€˜nothing in itā€™. The ā€˜nothingā€™ they refer to is usually very short, stressed grass of one or two species, with a decent spread of w**ds popping up for good measure.

Understanding the effects of grazing on short grass versus longer grass is crucial for any horse, but particularly for those with endocrine issues or a history of laminitis (usually caused by endocrine issues).

Somewhat ironically, these horses are often the ones who are purposely put on short, overgrazed grasses with the objective of keeping weight off.

šŸŒ±There are many reasons why short grasses cause issues:

āš«ļø Short grass is constantly trying to grow. Therefore it will store its sugars and starches (Non-Structural Carbohydrates or NSCs) to prepare for improved growing conditions. Growing conditions wonā€™t improve as your horse will continually keep eating it down, but the sugars will stay there.
āš«ļø Because NCSs are predominantly at the base of the plant, each mouthful has a high NSC:fibre ratio. Typically the sugars are lower, and fibre higher, towards the top of the grasses, so the longer the grass, the less sugar and higher in fibre it is. A high fibre, low sugar diet is what a horseā€™s gastrointestinal system is designed to eat.
āš«ļø The higher the grassā€™s fibre content, the lower the NSC intake will be.
āš«ļø Eating longer grass means the horse has to chew more. This not only slows down their intake, but increases saliva production. Saliva helps to buffer stomach acid and helps to prevent ulcers and other gastrointestinal issues.
āš«ļø A healthy (non-metabolic) horse eats until they have a specific amount of fibre in their stomach. Eating grass with a high-sugar and low fibre ratio means a horse consumes a lot of high-sugar grass before it feels satiated. This is why you might see horses with ad-lib hay standing around in the shade more than you will see horses with short grass doing the same. Horses with access to high-fibre hay can go and eat, then rest. Horses that need to eat all day to feel full will rest less.
āš«ļø Because a horseā€™s front teeth (incisors) work so well, they can eat enough to stay fat on grasses that are 3cm - 4cm. Ponies can do the same on grasses that are even shorter (1cm - 2cm).
āš«ļø Grasses grown specifically for lawns have their growth points very close to the ground so the plant can cope with being kept constantly short. These grasses have been selected specifically for this. Overgrazing results in only the 'lawn' type grasses surviving - so the result is a monoculture; just one or two species of grass. In addition, lawn type grasses are typically not ideal grasses for your horses to be eating a lot of.
āš«ļø Horses are more likely to pick up sand while grazing short grass than they are on longer grass.

šŸŒæ Property owners who want to take care of their paddocks should also keep in mind that:

āš«ļø Short grass plants have short root systems that cannot reach far down in the soil for nutrients. A short root system results in much less organic matter in the soil, causing soil compaction and poor drainage (not to mention less carbon sequestration).
āš«ļø Short, sparsely grassed areas in a paddock quickly turn to mud in wet weather and become dusty very quickly in dry weather. Both lead to soil erosion.
Short grass plants are not as able to outcompete certain w**ds as longer grasses are.

šŸŒ± How long is short?

Clients need to fill in a form to get a diet consultation and I ask for a description of their pasture as part of the process (both written and photographic). I was once astonished at the difference between what they tell me the grass is like, and what it is actually like.

A lot of owners describe grass thatā€™s around 3cms long as, ā€˜heaps of really good grassā€™. Because of this misunderstanding of what good grass is, they then donā€™t offer any additional hay. I end up having a lot of discussions with clients about grass. Sometimes we chat more about pasture and hay than the diet itself which is understandable as grass is complicated!

Short grass is generally shorter than 5cm (2.5 inches). However you need to look at the average height across your pasture as you will (hopefully!) have several species of grass available to your horses. There may also be areas they use as toilets which they wonā€™t eat unless theyā€™re almost starving. While 5cms is pretty short, in reality, on many horse properties, the grasses are as short as 1 or 2 cm.

Many horse owners think a paddock full of grass that is 5 cm long would be regarded as too long. At 5 cm, the plant is just about reaching the stage where it has 2 to 3 leaves, and it can now start to make a rapid recovery, using its stored sugars/starches for growth; at less than 5 cm it becomes stressed.


šŸŒæ Why is longer grass better for horses?

āš«ļø Longer grasses are healthier and typically not stressed (so they have less NSCs).
Taller pasture plants have a higher fibre-to-sugar ratio than short grass. As mentioned above, this is ideal for a healthy gastrointestinal tract.
āš«ļø Longer grass typically allows for more biodiversity (i.e. less monoculture).
āš«ļø Longer grasses have a longer and thicker root system. This results in more healthy nutrients being brought up from deeper layers in the soil.
āš«ļø Longer/thicker roots equal better soil protection which means less mud or dust. Obviously this is good for the ground and for your horse (less mud is better for a slew of reasons), but it also means plants may be able to be grazed in wetter conditions for a longer period of time.
āš«ļø Longer grass shades out and outcompetes many w**d species.
āš«ļø When the roots are longer the plant can ā€˜trades' some sugars for other nutrients such as amino acids. When the grass is short and stressed, it hangs onto excess sugars.
āš«ļø The horse has to eat from the top; this means they need to eat the higher fibre, lower sugar part before it can get to the higher sugar part of the plant (at the bottom of the plant).
āš«ļø The horse has to chew more, creating saliva to buffer stomach acid.
āš«ļø Horses walk more when grazing longer, more diverse pastures as they seek out different plants.
āš«ļø Longer grasses mean horses are essentially also browsing, not just grazing, this variety of eating postures is good for them biomechanically.
āš«ļø Horses pick up their feet more if they live in paddocks with longer grasses, this is also good for them biomechanically.

šŸŒæ Why is longer grass better for your property?

āš«ļø Longer grasses shade the soil in hot, dry conditions. This keeps it cooler and reduces evaporation. This, plus the increase in soil organic matter, helps hold water in the soil for longer. This means your grass can keep growing even when it hasnā€™t rained in a while.
āš«ļø Longer grasses provide a habitat for insects, small mammals/reptiles, and ground-nesting birds.
āš«ļø With their longer/thicker root systems, taller grasses sequester more carbon than short grasses and even faster than trees! This is improved when the plants are repeatedly grazed and then allowed to regrow (as part of a rotational grazing system), as it effectively pumps carbon into the soil.
āš«ļø Taller pasture plants keep the soil warmer in cold weather.


šŸŒæ How long is long?

In a rotational grazing system of land management, the grass is regarded as tall enough to resume grazing when it is approximately 15cm, or just before it goes to seed. When the grass plants have been grazed down to an average height of 5 cm, horses should be removed and the grass given the chance to rest and recuperate.

Wonā€™t free access to long grass make my horse fat/ter?

This answer to this question requires a whole other very long article and is dependent on many other factors. However, provided you do it sensibly, then in my experience, no.

Of course you canā€™t just let your horse have free access to endless lush, early spring grass, especially if you have high sugar grass species such as rye. If however, you have grasses that are lower in sugars such as fog, and/or you wait until itā€™s a little drier then your horse is less likely to gain weight, AND itā€™s a whole lot better for your horseā€™s gut AND also for the pasture itself.

If your horse has had their grazing restricted to overgrazed, short grasses for a long time (particularly if they also havenā€™t had access to hay) then you need to make a slow transition to longer grasses. If you suddenly give them access to long, lush grass then they are very likely to gorge and then they will gain weight.

šŸŒ± What about horses on agistment?

Having a horse on agistment makes things more difficult, but not impossible. Ask your agistment owner if you can rig up some temporary fencing (i.e. pigtails and tape) within your paddock to rest part of it, or set up a track system so you can have longer grasses. Setting up a track next to your existing permanent fencing also encourages more incidental movement and means you can restrict grazing at the height of spring and then allow your horse onto the longer grasses when itā€™s safe to do so. I suggest approaching them from a ā€˜paddock/pasture preservationā€™ point of view and use all the above reasons as to why it will be better for their land, as well as for your horse.

*credit to the Equiculture website which was used as a resource for this article

08/03/2024

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255 Tauranga Direct Road RD6
Rotorua
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