Animal, Nature & Life

Animal, Nature & Life An online shop dedicated to provide animal services like health assessment and/or medication.

How to treat?Proper wound management, correct antibiotic at the correct dose, and perfect water quality.
09/12/2022

How to treat?

Proper wound management, correct antibiotic at the correct dose, and perfect water quality.

Bumblefoot is caused by a bacteria and infects the bird's feet. Infection can then cause swelling, preventing the bird t...
30/05/2021

Bumblefoot is caused by a bacteria and infects the bird's feet. Infection can then cause swelling, preventing the bird to walk or perch. Could be fatal if left untreated.

This is our successful surgery to an Australian Black Swan.

A little story - when we were about to do the procedure, the caretaker also brought a goose whose feet were stretched, can't move due to the huge infection on both feet. It was too late to intervene unfortunately.

Split/Broken FinsIf the split on your koi's fin is not too far down the length of the fin, there is not much to do but t...
11/04/2021

Split/Broken Fins

If the split on your koi's fin is not too far down the length of the fin, there is not much to do but to keep an eye on it to preventing it from progressing to a more serious damage. Of course, keep the koi in the best water possible.

But...

If your koi has a broken fin like this showa here, a more serious measure had to be taken.

As you can see on the collaged photos, it started small and progressed to an 'angrier' looking damage. We've tried suturing it back but since this koi was around 70-75cm and the damage was at its tail fin, swimming around with the stitches on was a problem. Decided to cut from the base of the tail instead to promote new growth. Antibiotics was given, wound was cauterized, and koi was under observation for weeks. On the 3rd week, noticed that the tail grew back for a few centimeters.

This type of damage to the fin is not ideal to suture - as you can see from the photos, some of the tissues were eaten away and was obviously infected. Cleaning it up and cutting it back from its base was the best option.

We all need to remember though, healing is completely possible only when you have the best pond water.

Gill and Skin FlukesA common parasite affecting koi visible only under a microscope at 100x.These parasites are characte...
10/04/2021

Gill and Skin Flukes

A common parasite affecting koi visible only under a microscope at 100x.

These parasites are characterized by their large grappling hooks used to attach themselves to their hosts. The damage made by these hooks can then serve as pathways for secondary bacterial infection.

Koi suffering from an infestation may suffer respiratory distress as the flukes begin to damage the gill tissues. They will also show signs of irritation, extreme flashing, excess mucus production, jump or rub themselves to pond objects in an attempt to get rid of their parasites, bacterial ulcers, necrotic gill tissue and in extreme cases, small number of mortalities.

Healthy fish can control the parasites in numbers as their mucus helps prevent the parasites from moving.

Treatment: Potassium Permanganate, Praziquantel, Supaverm, Flubenol

Repeat treatments may be necessary to kill all generations of this parasite.

28/02/2020

Received countless of messages asking on what to do with their sick koi collection. Hobbyists tend to forget the most important thing to do before introducing new koi to pond - QUARANTINE.

"It is a fact that throughout the history of fish keeping there has always been a possibility that the introduction of new fish to an existing pond may mean the introduction of a disease or parasite infection. This is not a foregone conclusion as many new fish have been introduced to koi collections without any problems what-so-ever. Therefore, purpose of quarantining is to protect your collection. Let the Buyer Beware.

Koi keepers should always check the ponds where they intend to purchase from. Any dead koi, signs of stress, koi lying on the bottom, gulping at the surface etc should be viewed with suspicion. Once you have made the purchase and taken delivery, NEVER take for granted that the fish you purchase from ANY source are perfectly healthy. This is not pointing a finger but simple common sense to protect the most important person in koi keeping - you. Protect yourself -quarantine your own fish, if possible.

The most effective way to protect a valuable collection is to prevent the introduction of diseases. NO fish should be added to a collection unless they have been adequately quarantined by you, the koi keeper. You must be reasonably sure the new purchases are not carrying any diseases and/or parasites. They should also be quarantined to allow them to rebuild their strength and immunity. This quarantining period does not have any fixed time, but should be a minimum of a few weeks. Stressed, weakened koi will, in most cases, be open to attack from micro-organisms (e.g. bacteria and fungus) and macro-organisms (e.g. parasites). Therefore, as a precaution koi should be disinfected before adding to a collection. EVERY koi you purchase must be viewed as a potential carrier of disease simply because ALL koi carry pathogens (pathogen = something which causes a disease) and some parasites. Stress plays a major role in triggering diseases. The 'passengers' start multiplying. If the koi is weakened by stress, it will not usually be able to cope with this increase in parasites and/or bacteria and an infection will result.

Koi, like all creatures, develop a specific immunity against the pathological agents (bacteria, fungal or other micro-organisms that will harm them) in its own pond. In other words, the koi become accustomed to them. When this happens, equilibrium is established. To put it another way, there is a mutual agreement between the koi and the organisms that live on it and around it in a common environment. Just as there is a mutual understanding between our bodies and the micro-organisms that live on us. We are very dependent on these friendly creatures, but, if our resistance is lowered for some reason, the friendly 'bugs' can explode with a resulting infection.

INTRODUCING NEW KOI

When new koi from other regions or other ponds are introduced, they bring in microorganisms which they themselves have become immune to, but they may not be
immune to the bacteria already present in the water or on your koi. The koi in your present collection may, in turn, not be immune to the new bacteria brought in with the new koi. For example, different strains of Aeromonas bacteria can cause cross infections. Koi A has become immune to bacteria type "a" that has developed in its own pond or dam. Koi B has become immune to bacteria type "b" in another pond or dam. If we place them together, bacteria type "b" infects koi A and naturally bacteria "a" infects koi B. In other words the equilibrium is broken and if the bacteria is a virulent strain that your fish are not immune to, an infection can be result.

YOU MUST QUARANTINE
The definition of quarantine is: "A period of time, originally lasting 40 days, of enforced isolation or restriction of free movement imposed to prevent a contagious disease from spreading." This idea of enforced isolation can be used on fishes moving from country to country and also from area to area within a country.

It is not important whether the koi are moved from Japan to Philippines or moved from Cebu to Manila or even moved a few kilometers down the road. When you receive them, it is preferable that YOU must quarantine your new koi and observe them. Fortunately, in most cases there will not be a problem. But, be prepared and observe
the new fish regularly. When you are sure they are healthy you can introduce them to
your present collection. There are many instances of people buying fish that have never been quarantined and introducing them directly into their ponds without any disease being spread. These koi keepers don't believe in quarantining their new koi because they believe that it will involve moving the fish twice and therefore, involve more stress. The facts are you may be lucky and you may not be lucky. If koi are quarantined for any length of time it stands to reason that those fish in the
quarantine tank develop their own biological balance and eco system. The longer the quarantining period the more chance of this happening.

All quarantine procedures have two things in common.
When you purchase new koi –
ISOLATE them from your present collection for a period of time, even if the supplier states that he has quarantined the fish,
OBSERVE them until you are satisfied they are strong, healthy and free of disease. You need a separate pond or holding tank with separate pumps and filters as well as good oxygen levels and facilities to change water regularly. Also separate siphon pipes, nets and equipment that should not be used on the main pond. Covers may be necessary to prevent the koi jumping out. Mature water is essential. Add a low level of salt as a stress reliever. Avoid high levels of salt as this will add to the stress the koi are already under. Oxygenation levels are critical and must be high. Circulation, air stones, venturies, waterfalls etc. The koi need to be rested. You must know the capacity of the quarantine tank or pond. This helps if you need to medicate.
Any type of pond or container will do. Avoid galvanised baths. New ponds must be rinsed thoroughly. To assist the new koi to adapt to your environment use water from your main pond to change the water in the quarantine pond. In this way the new fish will come into contact with the strains of bacteria etc in your pond. On the quarantined pond there will be NO bacteria in a new filter no matter how large the filter is unless you have seeded the filter media beforehand. Ammonia can build up rapidly when a large number of koi are kept together in a new pond system. This will add to the stress factor. Ammonia and nitrite levels must be monitored every day in quarantine ponds. Reduce ammonia levels with water changes and possibly zeolite or seed the filter with mature filter media from another pond.

The temperature difference between the bags and the quarantine pond must be equalized to avoid any stress. Float bags if water temperatures vary more than 2 or 3 degrees between the bag and the pond. The pH in the bags and the pond will be substantially different. A lower pH (more acidic)
can be anticipated in the bags. pH must be adjusted SLOWLY over a period of time. Water from the pond can be gradually added to the bags to equalise the pH. The water from the bags must never be added to the pond as there could be parasites or pathogens in this water. Discard this water onto the garden or add chlorine to it before throwing down the drain. Most disease and/or parasite infections will manifest themselves with in 10 – 14 days. Internal problems brought about by the catching, bagging and transport of the koi may take months to reveal themselves. Quarantine for as long as is necessary for YOU to be certain that there is no outbreak of
disease or parasites amongst the new koi. Several weeks is usually considered the minimum. Other koi keepers consider several months to be best.
Only add medications if necessary. If the koi are healthy let them regain their strength then treat for parasites as a precaution. Alternatively introduce them into the pond then treat the whole pond for parasites. One of the main reasons for quarantining new fish, especially fish that have spent many hours travelling plus the stress of being caught and handled, is to give them time to rebuild their strength and immunity before introducing them into a collection. Imported koi are very stressed because they have probably been starved for several weeks prior to shipping. They spend over 25 hours in crowded plastic bags. You must treat them carefully. Feed them lightly on a high quality food. Let them rest and regain their strength. Feed lightly once a day at first. This will keep ammonia levels down and gives the koi a chance to get their digestive systems going again. Add one or two of your low quality “disposable” koi from the main pond into the
quarantine pond for about 2 weeks before you want to add the new fish to the main collection.

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE QUARANTINE FACILITIES

Be aware of the ever present risks of introducing new koi into an existing koi collection. There are many koi keepers who do not have quarantine facilities so they introduce koi directly into their collections. This is very risky but a common practice amongst koi keepers. The whole collection and pond would have to be treated as a quarantine pond and the whole collection must be closely observed every day for the first few weeks.

Many koi keepers give new koi a strong bath of Potassium Permanganate or salt before introducing new koi into their present collections. Note these dips will not stop KHV. The koi must be observed at all times during the short baths. Never leave the koi to answer the phone or speak to someone. The few seconds between successes and
disaster is very fine. Move the koi gently from the dip directly into the pond. At the first sign of sick fish – perhaps blood vessels showing in the whites of koi,
extreme agitation, flashing, or becoming lethargic, fins clamped, koi lying at the bottom, koi hanging around the water fall the cause of the problem must be identified before action is taken.

The whole pond will have to be treated correctly. Know your pond volume. Have someone to contact quickly if you need assistance."

The article above is super easy to understand. I hope this will somehow enlighten some hobbyists as to how important it is to QUARANTINE our new fish. PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE.

Live the Koi Life!

**Credit to Christopher Neaves of SAKKS

Paalala. Ang pag gamit nang antibiotics sa ating mga fish pond o sa mga isda nang walang sapat na kadahilanan o sapat na...
09/02/2020

Paalala.

Ang pag gamit nang antibiotics sa ating mga fish pond o sa mga isda nang walang sapat na kadahilanan o sapat na kaalaman ay hindi po natin dapat ginagawa. Misuse or overuse of antibiotics promotes antibiotic resistance. Ang antibiotics po ay gamot para sa bacterial infection.

When you use antibiotics sa pond kahit hindi naman kailangan, it's going to kill all the bacteria including the ones beneficial to your system. Aside from killing, it'll promote resistant properties and can then be shared to other bacteria. Dyan tayo magkakaproblema. Kaya nga some antibiotics are now less effective and/or don't work at all. We should make sure that when using antibiotics, dapat tamang klase para sa tamang sakit and of course nasa tamang dosage. Kasi, hindi lang po mga alaga natin ang apektado, pati din po tayo na nag-aalaga.

Bacteria are constantly evolving. Yun ngang mga bacteria na namamatay before sa salt treatment are now resistant because hobbyists are using salt sa pond kahit hindi naman kailangan.

This is just a reminder especially to people here na ang daling magcomment nang "lagay ka nang amoxicillin bubud mo sa tubig".

Malachite green crystals (powder)USES: - If your Koi start to flock-spawn in your pond and you don't wish them to damage...
15/01/2020

Malachite green crystals (powder)

USES:
- If your Koi start to flock-spawn in your pond and you don't wish them to damage themselves, use Malachite Green crystal dissolved in warm water and this will stop the spawning almost immediately.

- It can also be used to protect your Koi against the damages on the white ground being caused by sunburn.

- As a general pond bactericide

NOTE: Malachite Green alone is NOT an anti-parasite remedy as many believe but if Formalin is added to the pond, it can eradicate white spot, chilodonella and epistylis. It does this by stripping the mucus membrane away from the Koi's body and at the same time the parasites fall away with the mucus. It takes around 24 hours for the mucus membrane to regenerate and in that time the Koi are totally unprotected so it's vital that when Formalin is used at the rate given, then Malachite Green should also be added.

You need money? Me want food.. Fooodd!!! Hungry Monday morning to all!
13/01/2020

You need money? Me want food.. Fooodd!!!

Hungry Monday morning to all!

Nope, not co***ne nor the cheaper version shabu. That's Praziquantel Powder - the most effective medicine against koi fl...
28/10/2019

Nope, not co***ne nor the cheaper version shabu.

That's Praziquantel Powder - the most effective medicine against koi flukes.

Available soon! 😁

Epsom SaltTreats constipation/digestive problems in fishes. Also used to harden soft water although discouraged due to i...
07/10/2019

Epsom Salt

Treats constipation/digestive problems in fishes. Also used to harden soft water although discouraged due to its laxative effect.

A few dead scales has been extracted, rotten tissues cut. Days of antibiotics and this gal was back to its former beauty...
04/10/2019

A few dead scales has been extracted, rotten tissues cut. Days of antibiotics and this gal was back to its former beauty.

Let us talk about BACTERIAL INFECTIONAs the koi's immune system begins to fail, ulcerated infections develop. Like any l...
21/09/2019

Let us talk about BACTERIAL INFECTION

As the koi's immune system begins to fail, ulcerated infections develop.

Like any living thing, a bacterium has to eat as well but, it is how they eat that causes the problem. You see, in the gut of any animal (including human), we have what we termed as 'good' bacteria. These bacteria are responsible in breaking down an animal's food by producing enzymes, so that the nutrients can readily be absorbed through the stomach wall.

In normal circumstances though, this bacterial activity is not a problem. It is when the fish's immune system gets compromised and the bacteria's number grow uncontrollably that makes it a problem. Unfortunately, there are bacteria that get their nourishment from blood of animals and their way of nourishing themselves - which is to use enzymes is what causes tissue damage and eventually ulcers.

How to treat?
Most bacterial infection is secondary so we need to determine the primary cause of the infection first which could be your water quality, different kinds of parasites, or both. We should know what enemy to fight and make a thorough research before applying any medication. I'd strongly suggest for a microscopic diagnosis first and if you find nothing and still thinks that something is off, consult an expert or call a fish vet.

Live the Koi Life!

Let us talk about DROPSYProbably the most controversial koi 'disease' mainly because a lot of hobbyists think that there...
20/09/2019

Let us talk about DROPSY

Probably the most controversial koi 'disease' mainly because a lot of hobbyists think that there is no cure to this. Although in some cases it's true, on these photos here, you'd see that with the right application, it is entirely possible to treat what almost everyone is used to losing.

Dropsy is not a disease per se but is a result when kois' osmoregulation system gets upset - which means the koi weren't able to dump the excess fluid from it's body. The organ responsible for dumping these excess water is the kidney.

So what really causes dropsy?

Anything that would compromise or impair the function of the kidney - from an open wound that allows water in-flow to the fish's body that the kidney can't deal with or a bacterial kidney infection, or both.

I have so far dealt dropsy with much success although one must bear in mind that if the kidney is totally destroyed, recovery is almost impossible.

Fish medicines bound for Ilo-ilo! Yes, we can ship nationwide!
08/09/2019

Fish medicines bound for Ilo-ilo!

Yes, we can ship nationwide!

28/08/2019

2.0 ppm of ammonia in less than 2 mins.

Ammonia comes almost entirely from koi thru the gills and less so from decaying organics in the pond which means, that even if you're not feeding your fish, you'll still have ammonia in your pond.

Excessive ammonia readings like this can be results of an immature bio filter, undersized filter with or without adequate flow, infrequent cleaning, high stocking accompanied with over-feeding.

High level of ammonia is toxic to fish and symptoms would be red streaks, lethargy and if this continues to build up in our pond, burns the koi's skin, fins and gills.

Water changes is the immediate action to dilute ammonia.

We are water keepers!

Few of the basic equipments a TRUE koi hobbyist should possess. - water test kit- salt meter- thermometerWater quality i...
27/08/2019

Few of the basic equipments a TRUE koi hobbyist should possess.
- water test kit
- salt meter
- thermometer

Water quality is the most essential part of keeping koi. Without these - especially the water test kit - you'd be like a blind person walking on a highway. Most koi diseases are caused by stress and stress that causes fish to get sick, is due to poor water quality. When you give your fish the best water, they'll be able to fight off any bacterial, fungal or even parasite attack.

You are not a koi keeper - You are a water keeper ☺

Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) is now AVAILABLE at 30/gram! Effective against microscopic parasites like flukes, white s...
21/08/2019

Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) is now AVAILABLE at 30/gram!

Effective against microscopic parasites like flukes, white spot, costia, chilodonella, trichodina and paramecium tetrahymena.

These are just some of the cases we've handled. Most of the pictures can be found on our creator's personal fb account. ...
20/08/2019

These are just some of the cases we've handled. Most of the pictures can be found on our creator's personal fb account.

Cases like these needed careful evaluation before actions were taken. The REAL cause of the problem was determined first before medications were applied.

You think you need help with your koi? PM us now!

Praziquantel Powder- primarily used against parasitic worm infection in humans and animals- when dissolved properly in w...
15/08/2019

Praziquantel Powder
- primarily used against parasitic worm infection in humans and animals
- when dissolved properly in water, is very effective against gill and skin flukes

Dosage: 2.5 grams per 1000 liters of water

Note: avoid the ones from Thailand as they are selling fake Praziquantel powder. Tried and tested their product.

Liquid form is also available. Our shop will soon carry the liquid form. Watch out for the opening of the Page's shop.

Sodium Chloride (Salt) - Is a great remedy to some health fish problems. In the right dosage can be a bactericide and fu...
15/08/2019

Sodium Chloride (Salt)
- Is a great remedy to some health fish problems. In the right dosage can be a bactericide and fungicide. Does not kill parasites.

Dosage: 1 to 3 kgs per ton for stress and minor health problems.
4 to 6 kgs per ton for fish with ulcers

Please note: salt alone DOES NOT heal wounds caused by bacterial infection. Salt is NOT a cure-all medicine.

Nope.. That is not co***ne nor the cheaper version shabu.. That's Dimilin Powder! It is effective against Lernaea (ancho...
14/08/2019

Nope.. That is not co***ne nor the cheaper version shabu.. That's Dimilin Powder!

It is effective against Lernaea (anchor worm), Fish Lice, and Ergasilus (gill maggots, NOT gill flukes), and is less toxic towards fish than organophosphates. It will also kill other invertebrates like water fleas, water scorpions etc.

Dosage: 1 gram per 1000 litres of water, for 2-3 treatments, 10-14 days interval per treatment

Clove Oil- used to sedate fish so problems like wounds can be dealt with without further damage due to unnecessary movem...
14/08/2019

Clove Oil
- used to sedate fish so problems like wounds can be dealt with without further damage due to unnecessary movements. This can also be used to euthanize fish that are terminally ill - probably the most humane way to end a fish's suffering.

Potassium Permanganate- a very strong oxidizing agent. As medication, it is used to cauterize/clean wounds. In the right...
13/08/2019

Potassium Permanganate
- a very strong oxidizing agent. As medication, it is used to cauterize/clean wounds. In the right dosage and number of treatments, it is very effective against microscopic parasites on koi. It also used to sterilize equipments like net, tubs etc.

Dosage: 2-4 grams per 1000 liters of water(6-8 hrs) for 3-4 treatments with 2-3 days interval per treatment.

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