Aranda Dog Training

05/07/2024

DOGS ARE TRANSPARENT..
Yes the word transparency is getting thrown around quit a bit these days. And yes I think it's important. What does it mean to be transparent? Here are a few definitions I looked up.

1. Allowing light to pass through so that objects behind can be distinctly seen
2. Transparency is intentionally baring your soul to the world by showing your true self to others. Most people hide their essence in fear of rejection, lack of self-confidence, broken-hearted, or lack of fulfillment in life; there are many reasons a person will hold back who they are.
3. Transparency is really about being honest and open with information
4. Having thoughts, feelings, or motives that are easily perceived.

Based on these definitions, Dogs Are Very Transparent.
Dogs are so transparent about their feelings and emotions. I tell all my clients that a dog’s behavior is generally a reflection of the emotion they are feeling at that moment. You can’t always say that about humans.

A man can be afraid of harmless garden snakes, however, because he may be a little macho he may not want to show his fear if there are women around. He can hide his emotion fear and his behavior may not reflect his emotion.
When a dogs are afraid they have no reason to try to hide their emotion fear. They will crouch down with their tail tucked, ears pulled back and when they growl their lips are retracted way back. They have no reason to hide their fear. They have no ulterior motive.

A woman can be sad and depressed for whatever reason but she does not want her family to know it. So she walks around with a happy face. Her behavior does no reflect her emotional state and she can hide it if she wants to.
Go to the Humane Society or any shelter and see how depressed some dogs can get after their owners have abandoned them. They have no reason to hide their depression, stress and anxiety and it’s obvious.

A man can be getting chewed out by his boss and he knows he doesn’t have it coming. He is so angry he wants to knock him on his butt. However he may just smiles and accepts it because he needs his job to support his family. So his behavior does not reflect his emotional anger and he can hide it if it is his best interest.
Well let me tell you when a dog is angry they don’t try to hide it. They stand very erect with their tail wagging in a circle like a rattlesnake. When they are growling their lips form a C cup with their incisors showing and hard ridges over their nose. They have no reason to try to hide their anger.

DOGS ARE SO HONEST
They are not deceptive. They have no ulterior motives.
Dogs are Transparent and Honest

What you see is what you get..
Can we say that about all humans?

This is not a training post; however, remember that a dog’s behavior is a reflection of their emotional state at that moment.
Fear can elicit all kind of problem behaviors. Fear fuels the Animals Genetically Programed Survival Responses, the Flight & Fight..Dogs Are Animals.
So if you do not like or approve of the Flight - Fight behavior, you must change the emotions fueling those behaviors.

It was easy to tell LeeLa's Emotions:
* Happy at Grandmas
* Concerned about loose dogs
* Unhappy about her raincoat
LeeLa was so transparent and Honest

Ted Aranda
CPDT-KA Certified
Aranda Dog Training

11/29/2023

THE PROBLEM WITH FEAR BASED PUNISHMENT.
YOU CAN’T PUNISH FEAR OUT OF A DOG
So often when a dog has aggression issues dog owners and some trainers attempt to correct the behavior with punishment. However, if the aggression is motivated by fear, stress or anxiety, punishment will seldom or never work.
Let me lay the foundation about my point by talking about reflexes.

Physiological Reflexes
As you know, reflexes are involuntary. The Dr. taps you just right on your knee and it will jerk up and you can’t stop it. That’s a reflex. Come out of the movie theater where it’s dark and into the sunlight your eyes are going to dilate and you can’t stop that, even for a million dollars. Again, reflexes are involuntary.

Psychological Reflexes
Now let’s talk about Psychological Reflexes. According to the literature emotions are reflexes. In other words, emotions are involuntary.

Some emotional reflexes are Conditioned!
Examples of Conditioned Emotional Reflexes:
Conditioned Pleasure:
When a cat is eating tuna fish the emotion will be pleasure, not fear. Pleasure is an emotional reflex elicited by tasty food. Pair the can opener with the tuna fish two or three times, and through Pavlovian Classical Conditioning, you will condition the emotion pleasure to the sound of the can opener. Again, this conditioning is involuntary.

Conditioned Punishment:
When the dog hits the boundary of the invisible fence he will get punished with painful shock. Now the Emotional Reflex with painful punishment will always be Fear, never pleasure.
Fear is an emotional reflex; it’s involuntary elicited by punishment. The first time the dog hears the warning beep before he gets shocked it means absolutely nothing. But after pairing the beep with the actual shock two or three times, you condition the emotion fear to the beep.

FLIGHT & FIGHT
Fear, an emotional reflex, may elicit the Flight & Fight responses.
Flight & Flight are genetically programed survival responses that come into play with fear-base situations.
Let’s say you have a dog that is afraid of men. Most dogs that are afraid of men, given the option, will move away (flight). The flight is a genetically programmed survival response, instinct!
However, if dogs have no flight option, or they perceive they have no flight option, they may use the other genetically programed survival response Fight and that’s instinct!
Now that we have established that all emotions are reflexes let’s talk about the problem with punishing fear-based aggression.

FEAR BASED AGGRESSION
The aggression is motivated by fear. We already established the emotional reflex with painful punishment is fear. Keep in mind that the dog is already afraid. Consequently, what people are doing when they punish a fear-based behavior is they are actually Conditioning MORE FEAR to men through Pavlovian Classical Conditioning, which is learning by association.
“But Ted, the aggression stopped when I punished”
Now here is what’s really happening. When you punish fear-based behavior, it may stop the aggressive display at that moment, and people may think that the punishment is working. But the aggression keeps coming back and you punish again and again trying to stop the fear-base aggressive behavior. If it was really working, then why does the aggressive behavior keep coming back?

What’s happening here is that when you punish the fear-based aggression, you are punishing the SYMPTOM of the aggressive problem. You are not getting to the ROOT CAUSE of the aggressive behavior, which is the emotion fear of men. With punishment you may get temporary suppression of the behavior, but it keeps coming back because you are not getting to the CAUSE of the aggression, which is fear.

I like to use human analogies and metaphors so that this, sometimes-complex stuff, make sense to you.
Think of it this way, say you have a headache, you take an aspirin and the headache goes away. But the next day you have another headache, and you take a couple of more aspirins and the headache goes away. For a week you keep getting those headaches and the aspirin keeps giving you temporary relief. However, if you keep getting that headache every day you better quit treating the SYMPTOMS of the headaches, even though you get temporary relief. You need to go to the doctor and get to the CAUSE of the headaches, not just deal with the symptoms!
It’s the same thing when you punish fear-based behavior. Punishment may stop the aggressive behavior (symptom) temporarily, but it will keep coming back because you are not getting to the CAUSE of the problem, which is the emotion fear of men, dogs or whatever. The aggression will only go away permanently when you change the dog’s emotion of fear when he encounters men, dogs etc. to Pleasure & Relaxation.

Then how do you treat the CAUSE of fear-based aggression? It’s called Systematic Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning.
I have already written a couple of post on Systematic Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning so you might want to go back and review.

Ted Aranda
CPDT-KA Certified
Aranda Dog Training

Problem Behavior Specialist: Aggression - Barking - Chewing-Housetraining - Jumping - Separation A

05/08/2023

WHY DO DOGS GUARD THEIR FOOD?
People want to know why their dogs may growl at them if they try to approach while they're eating. And they want to know how they can "fix" their "attitude"?

There are many reasons and theories why dogs feel the need to guard their food. It could be genetics, instinct or learned behavior. Scientists believe it’s part genetic (nature) and part environmental (nurture). No one knows the exact reason some dog’s guard and others don’t. However, we do know that some of it is residual natural instinct from their wolf ancestors.

Lets see what wolf ethologist Dave Mech; a wolf expert has to say about food guarding. Dave Mech has studied the wolf in its natural habitat for well over thirty years.
Here are some of Mech's quotes about wolf behavior. This may shed some light into why your dog may have food aggression.

“Among wolves, an otherwise submissive individual may actively defend the possession of food against higher-ranking pack members. Mech, 1970. Mech suggest that possession within an ownership zone of approximately one foot from the wolves nose gives the possessor rights to defend and control the object against intrusion”.

‘”In an experiment in which an otherwise submissive wolf was given possession of a large piece of meat, the subordinate was able to defend it’s right of possession aggressively against higher ranking pack members that have been starved for 72 hours”.

“A leader wolf protects its rights and privileges but does not casually intrude on the rights and privileges of a subordinates. Even the lowest ranking subordinate will defend a bone or piece of food that it has secured for itself.
Only a rather incompetent leader would go about challenging and agitating deferential subordinates”.

“This event clearly shows that possessive aggression may operate under the influences of motivation other than the assertion of social dominance or rank. Possessive aggression may be more properly understood in terms of defensive motivations rather than offensive ones”.

IS FOOD BOWL GUARDING INSTINCT OR LEARNED?
Experts believe its still “left over” wolf’s instinct that drives some dog’s to guard food!
Food bowl guarding behavior does not necessarily mean he will be aggressive in any other situation. Food guarding is a natural engraved fear motivation in animals and has not changed even after years of domestication.

FOOD BOWL GUARDING IS FEAR MOTIVATED
“It is recognized by leading authorities in canine behavior that guarding food is a fear-based behavior that some dogs exhibit.

“Fear is the underlying cause of most forms of canine aggression. It is triggered by a stimulus that is threatening to the dog. When the aggression is a direct response to a challenge or confrontation, it might be referred to as defensive aggression”. – Merck Veterinary Manual”

Most dogs get a little stressed and anxious when you go near them when they are eating, but most don’t act out. Has anyone ever noticed if you, or another dog, goes near their food, they will start eating faster. Or they stop eating and freeze. These are signs the dog is getting stressed when you go near them. If you go closer some may growl. Again, these are signs that the dog is getting extremely uncomfortable and could lash out and bite.

Punishing Food Bowl Aggression?
Often people think a dog is displaying food bowl aggression because he is trying to “dominate” you. He wants to show that he’s the “Alpha” No, the dog is not trying to dominate you, he is afraid you are going to take he food away. Because people often misunderstand why their dogs guard their food many owners of resource guarders often get angry and punish their dog to show them who’s alpha. That is crazy nonsense!
I have said it over and over again that punishing a dog for fear-based behavior does not remove the motivation for the behavior. In fact it makes the problem worse because punishment conditions even more fear to the situation.

LEARNED FOOD BOWL AGRESSION
Here is how food guarding, as Learned Behavior (nurture) may evolve.
In so many cases someone will try to teach the puppy that it’s okay to go near them while they are eating. Many people will take the food bowl away right in the middle of his/her meal to try to teach the dog that “It’s okay”. Does anyone really think the dog gets any pleasure when you take their food away after they have started eating it? Of course not! This will only stress the puppy and make him anxious anytime anyone goes near as he is eating.

Or they may want to teach the puppy that they can take it away if they want to because they are the "Alpha". In other words, “I can do it if I want to and you can’t stop me”. How stupid is that? You are only making the dog very stressed and anxious. And keep in mind that the emotions that fuel reactivity and aggression are fear, stress, anxiety, frustration and anger. If the puppy growls it is usually punished. It may work on the little puppy but wait until you try this with a mature adult dog.

Yes, you can condition your dog to have food aggression. I can’t believe how many people do that by just trying to teach the puppy that it s “okay” or I can do it if I want to because I am the "Alpha".
How would you like it or feel if you sat down to a hot meal, you start eating, then someone takes your dinner away because they are bigger and they can do it? You just might retaliate. Well let me tell you, the dog feels and may respond the same way.

Again, most dogs tolerate it when their humans go near them when they are eating, but most dogs do not like it. They fear you are going to take it away and they growl to protect their food and drive you away to reduce their fear.

TREATMENT STEPS FOR FOOD BOWL AGGRESSION
1. Manage Your Dog’s Environment
This means no one goes near the dog while it is eating. Once you put the food bowl down keep as much distance as possible untill you start working on the issue.
It is also better, if possible, to feed him in a wide-open space. Dogs in general are more stressed and anxious in hallways and foyers so those areas are at higher risk for aggression.

2. Desensitize & Counter-Condition your dog’s fear-based food aggression
The goal is to change your dog’s fear when people approach his food bowl to pleasure and relaxation.
* Start the desensitizing by using extra high value treats such as pieces of hot dogs, chicken etc. Usually some kind of meat works best.

* Walk towards your dogs while they’re eating. Stop far enough away so that they are aware of you, but before they start to show signs of stress such as stiffening up or eating faster. Toss some treats near his food bowl.

* While the dog is still looking at you toss a few more treats their way while you’re still at a safe distance, then walk away.

* Repeat this step for the first few days anytime your dog is eating.

* After a few days start tossing a few treats their way from a slightly closer distance and walk away.

* Slowly, systematically start decreasing the distance between you and your dog. Repeat this step at that distance a few more times while they’re eating.

* If your dog stiffens up, growls or starts to show any signs of discomfort you’ll need to move back a step or two and toss treats from there. Remember where your dog’s threshold is, and only work on moving one step closer at a time.
If you are careful and you don’t push too fast you might eventually be able to get next to your dogs food bowl while they remains fairly relaxed.

Would you continue until you can pet your dog while they are still eating? Me personally, I wouldn’t. For some dogs you can progress so that your dog will let you pet them while they’re eating. However, for some dogs you might be asking too much and they could snap at you and now you are back to square one.

The goal of the desensitization training is to change your dog’s emotion from fear and stress, to pleasure and relaxation when they are eating and you have to go near them. You want them to associate you coming towards their food as a pleasant experience, rather than something to be afraid of. But keep in mind it takes time to change your dog’s emotional psychology towards something they’re afraid or stressed about. The longer the food bowl guarding has been going on the more difficult it will be to change their emotional state that is fueling the reactive behavior. Keep in mind, as with anything you are trying to desensitize your dog to, moving too fast can set back any progress you’ve made. Hopefully after awhile your dog will begin looking forward to you coming near, “Will you hurry up with my desert”.

TED ARANDA
CPDT-KA Certified
ARANDA DOG TRAINING

04/20/2023

ALPHA ROLL & DOMINANCE
Many people still think you have to "Roll" a dog to show who is the Alpha. I don't think so!! Can't imagine Alpha Rolling my dogs!
I have posted about this subject before but I think it needs revisiting.

The “alpha roll”, a controversial dog training technique, is still used by some dog trainers and dog owners. The theory behind this training method is to teach the dog that the dog owner-handler is the pack leader. When a dog has a behavior problem or when people think the dog is being “dominant” they are pinned on their back and held in that position, sometimes by the throat until they are submissive. “You need to show them who’s the “pack leader”. Nonsense!!!

Why you should not use the Alpha Roll and Dominance Theory.
First of all, the alpha roll technique has no scientific merit. And more important the alpha roll is dangerous because it has been shown to increase a dog's aggressive behaviors and can result in a serious bite.

Dogs, like any other animal, have the Flight-Fight instincts. When you take a dog down into an "alpha roll" the dog can feel very vulnerable with no escape option (Flight) and may lash out and bite their owner (Fight). The dogs may feel they have no choice than to react aggressively and bite to protect themselves, Yes, in working with dogs for many years I have known clients that used the “alpha roll” and were severely bitten in the face and consequently the dog euthanized. Whose fault was it the dog bit and was then euthanized? The misinformed, misguided dog owner.

I've had people tell me how dominant their dog is when in reality their dog is usually confused, afraid, stressed and anxious. Aversive methods will only increase the dog's underlying fear and anxiety that will actually make the problem behavior much worse.

People may often think the dog is being stubborn and won’t listen to commands because he is “dominant”. The problem usually is a lack of true clear canine communication. By that I mean poor communication because of non-clear training techniques..
The alpha roll won’t teach the dog anything to get him to respond to your request and accomplish your training goals.

Where did Alpha Theory originate? David Mech.
David Mech, a wolf biologist-ethologist, studied a group of captive wolves and asserted that they organize themselves through a dominance hierarchy.
Mech later found out that the reason these wolves were using dominance and aggression to organize their pack structure was because the wolves were brought in from separate packs! They were not family. In other words they did not know each other.

Many years later he retracted his theory after studying wild wolves in their natural habitat. He realized that the leaders of their packs were merely the parents. They organized through structured roles and positions. He said you rarely see a wolf pin down another pack member in a bid to dominate them. More commonly, when there is tension within a group, you may observe a member voluntarily roll over into a passive submissive position. Dogs may also volunteer to lie down on their back and use other appeasement behaviors to show they are no threat. An "Alpha Roll", pinning another on their back by force, is not a natural behavior with wolves or dogs.

And one last thing, your dog is not a wolf.
Training a dog should be about formulating a relationship built on trust, respect, cooperation and good canine communication that they understand. You won’t have to “dominate” your dog if you apply the Scientific Principles of Animal Learning, Training and Motivation.

After all that being said, if your goal is to want the dog to know who’s in charge and who the authority figure is, try training self-control exercises. Before you feed your dog ask for a ten second stay and when he complies release him to his meal. Do a sit-stay before allowing her to go outside and play. Ask your dog to do basic “obedience” exercises like the sit, lie down and recall for things such as treats or other things he values and will work for (Positive Reinforcement). If your dog will “work” for the things you provide then he is “working” for you and you are in charge, the leader and the authority figure.

By asking your dog to give you what you want first, then give him what he want’s you have a win-win situation and you won’t have to “Dominate” or “Alpha Roll’ your dog.

Ted Aranda
CPDT-KA Certified
Aranda Dog Training

Problem Behavior Specialist: Aggression - Barking - Chewing-Housetraining - Jumping - Separation A

03/28/2023

DOG ATTACKS. WHAT CAN YOU DO??
With the warm weather right around the corner there will be many more dogs on walks with their owners. That means that the potential of a dog attack will rise.

A dog owner's worst nightmare is going for a walk in the morning and see an aggressive dog with hackles up and growling, charging toward you and your dog.

What can we do to minimize the risk of a bad outcome?
A good start, if you just moved or are in an unfamiliar neighborhood, is it’s probably a good idea before you decide on walking your dog to scope the neighborhood. Get to know the area a little and see if there are stray dogs roaming the streets. Find out who has dogs nearby and how these dogs are contained. Even with doing all that you still cannot predict when a stray or unleashed dog may pop up out of nowhere or an owner may have left the gate open. You can still reduce the odds by knowing the surroundings.

If a dog is approaching you in any manner that seems aggressive, particularly if they are showing teeth, raising their hackles, growling, you will need to stay calm to avoid provoking the dog even more. Do not run away. Unless you are absolutely certain you can make it to safety, don’t start running away as it will just encourage most dogs to chase you. Avoid eye contact and slowly turn to the side. Do your best to stay calm.
Evaluate the situation to see if the owner is nearby: If he is, tell him to call his dog. Many people will respond by telling you that their dog is “friendly.” Remember, it is your right and you can choose whether to let that dog meet your dog.

But regardless of their dog’s behavior, if their dog is not under their control and is upsetting you or your dog, it is a problem.

So, how can you stop a dog that’s charging you?
There are several different strategies. Choose the method you think will work best for each individual situation:
The least confrontational way may be to toss a handful of treats to him and make your escape while he’s gobbling them up. Try to toss the treats at his face (with the intent to startle, not hurt). When he stops and realizes that there’s food on the ground he may focus on eating instead of rushing you. This is the probably the kindest way to give your dog space without the potential fallout that more forceful methods may cause.

If that doesn’t work you might have to step in between your dog and the oncoming dog and use a body block. Square your shoulders and hips, and hold your hand out saying “NO or “STAY” in a firm, low voice.

Before going for a walk you should know of a way to defend and protect yourself if necessary.
You might also want to carry an umbrella, which would pop open explosively on the direction of the rushing dog at the push of a button. Hopefully this will both startle the dog and provide a physical and visual barrier.

Another option is to use of a spray product if he comes close. Some spray products such as citronella may work. It can be effective deterrent for most dogs without actually harming them. Compressed air may be used in the same way.
You can go to a pet store or purchase dog deterrent products on line.
Pepper Spray is also an option. However, pain can make some dogs more aggressive. And if the wind is blowing the wrong way the spray could end up getting into your or your dog’s face and eyes,

Some people think picking up your dog is may not be a good idea. Doing so may put you at greater risk and can intensify the off-leash dog’s interest in your pup. However, in some situations you may decide it’s a calculated risk you’re willing to take.

Keep in mind that it is always okay to protect your dog:
Most urban and suburban environments have leash laws, and if your dog is on a leash you are right in keeping your dog safe.

Use Physical Force as a Last Resort
If the other dog actually is biting your dog aggressively don’t be afraid to hit the other dog during the attack, especially if you see that the other dog has your dog by the throat and could kill your dog. Get whatever you can to hit the attacking dog until it releases your dog and runs away.
Again, hitting a dog could still make the dog more aggressive. Sort of damn if you do, damn if you dont.

Is there an absolute way to guard and protect you and your dog during an a dog attack? No, but these are suggestions I have given you to reduce the risk of a bad outcome during a dog attack or confrontation.
There is no recipe.
Stay Safe My Friends

Ted Aranda
CPDT-KA Certified
Aranda Dog Training

Problem Behavior Specialist: Aggression - Barking - Chewing-Housetraining - Jumping - Separation A

03/11/2023

WHAT IS A CANINE BEHAVIOR CONSULTANT?
As a Canine Behavior Consultant I am a practitioner of Applied Behavior Analysis to help resolve behavior problems in dogs.

As a canine behavior consultant I do teach basic training exercises such as sit, lay down, come and loose leash walking.
However, my main focus is on treating behavioral disorders such as separation anxiety fear, stress, noise phobia, aggression, resource guarding, etc. As a behavior consultant, I focus on education and learning in-depth Canine Cognition, Ethology and Applied Behavior Analysis.

*Canine Cognition: Based from the Animal Behavior Sciences
*Ethology: Animal behavior and instinct in their natural habitat.
*Applied Behavior Analysis:
(ABA) A scientific approach to understanding and controlling behavior. Behavioral analysis is observing the relationship between a dog’s environment and their behavior.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DOG TRAINER AND A BEHAVIORIST?
Dog trainers have experience in the fundamentals of basic learning and training. Many develop their own training methods. Generally speaking basic training, although very important, does not usually address and get to the “root cause” of problem behaviors.

As a Dog Behaviorist, I have an in depth knowledge of the canine mind. I use “Canine Psychology” from the Animal Behavioral Sciences to treat and modify undesired behaviors and to install desired behavior.

Functional Assessment:
My job as a canine behavior consultant is to determine the function of the unwanted problem behavior. In other words what is the purpose of the behavior? Why is the dog doing that? What is the dog getting out of the behavior? What is motivating that behavior? It is not always easy to pinpoint the motivation and reinforcement.

To determine the function of the behavior I start by questioning the client over the phone to get a clear, objective description of what the dog is doing. The next step in the dog owner’s home is to take a detailed history of the dog’s behavior as a puppy, or as far back as we can go up to the present.

As a behavior consultant I must get to the “Root Cause” of the problem behavior, not just address the symptom with basic training. I do not want to be vague, speculate or guess about why the problem behavior is happening. The protocol designed cannot be just a “try this” hit and miss or “tricks of the trade”. “Without being clear and specific about the problem behavior success will be less likely”.
Once I know the function of the behavior I design a protocol to treat the problem. And of course I help and guide the owners on how to implement that plan.

BEHAVIORAL TREATMENTS
What are behavioral treatments I use for problem behaviors?
Behavior problems are usually fueled by string emotions, such as fear, stress and anxiety, I use Classical Conditioning principles Systematic Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning.

I also use Operant Conditioning.
Operant Conditioning is about training mechanical behaviors but in a controlled systematic way. The treatments are to install desired behaviors by using response substitution with graded differential reinforcement. For the problem unwanted behaviors I use the principles of extinction. Actually I am always using both, Classical Conditioning to control the Mind and Operant Conditioning to control the Body.

KNOWLEDGE & EXPERIENCE
Learning how to train a dog to respond on cue to basic behaviors such as sit, lay down, come, stay and walk on a loose leash is not that difficult. Dog trainers can get very proficient at this type of training in only about a year or less.

However, being a proficient Problem Behavior Consultant takes much more time, knowledge and experience. Yes you need the knowledge first and then it takes years of experience to really apply it properly.
As a problem behavior consultant there is no exact recipe that you can replicate over and over. No two-problem behavior cases, although they may appear the same, are ever exactly the same. You have to keep “tweaking” for the individual dog and client. But the scientific principles are the same. I have been studying and applying my knowledge from the Animal Behavioral Science for over forty years. And guess what? I am still learning!! I still attend seminars and conferences to keep up with the latest research on Canine Cognition and Behavior.

This post is definitely not detailed about the techniques and principles I use. However, I have other posts on this page that cover the principles in great detail, but in easy to understand language.

Ted Aranda.
CPDT-KA Certified
Aranda Dog Training.

Problem Behavior Specialist: Aggression - Barking - Chewing-Housetraining - Jumping - Separation A