COME, SIT, STAY Canine Etiquette

06/27/2025

THUNDERSTORM &/OR FIREWORKS ISSUES!!! A couple of times a year, I make a post on thunderstorms & fireworks. This is one of those times. We have lots of thunderstorms AND...The 4th of July is right around the corner. So, NOW...is the time to try & find help for your dog/s if they experience anxiety or sheer panic/terror. It is the time to check into things that can help your dog/s!!!!

Thi is so important, don't wait until the last minute!!

PREPARE "NOW" FOR...thunderstorm issues & fireworks issues your dog has. Please take time...now, before the fact...to determine HOW to best HELP your dog/s endure upcoming thunderstorms or fireworks with the least amount of stress/anxiety as possible. First off, if you have an outside dog, PLEASE bring them indoors. Most dogs who have issues with storms or fireworks, their issues/reactions go beyond fear & panic. They experience utter, sheer TERROR!!!

All they know is they have to "get away" from what is happening. They will do anything. Chew out of a wood fence, dig under a fence, try to dig out of a concrete run bloodying their paws. If indoors & crated or fenced, they will grab at the wires with all their might & can damage their mouths & teeth. Claw at any confinement & damage their paws. Indoors...many dogs will try to escape any confinement. In their efforts to escape the noise that is causing their terror, they can hurt themselves & cause damage to the house.

For all of their physical traumas, the emotional trauma is every bit as severe or worse!! Even indoors when you are home, the dogs will often pace, pant, whine, cry. Owners know their dog can't help it...but, as it goes on & on...even the best of owners will often lose patience. This compounds the dog's trauma/terror level beyond description!! Be aware that leaving your dogs alone can also add to their terror levels.

There are "natural" approaches that can help some dogs. I have found that Melatonin is very helpful. It may take more than would normally be needed to calm your dog in other circumstances. There is no magical amount. I had a 60 # lab who only need 1/2 of a 3 mg. Melatonin. But, a 15 # Westie required 9 mg. to get any relief at all.

Some dogs are helped by Rescue Remedy. Some dogs are helped by DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromones). Sometimes, a dog can benefit from a Thunder shirt. I have had much input about these working to some degree or a lot! All of these seem to have a range of efficacy from one dog to another. Some are not helped at all. Others, helped "some", others...are helped a lot. I know there are many things out there that can help. A newer item that can help if the dog's issues are related to the SOUNDS are "ear muffs" for dogs! The one I am familiar with is called Mutt Muffs.

Please take time to develop a multi-tiered "game plan" as to how to help your dog. The television, radio, CD volume can help mask the noises to a degree. Years ago, before all the newer approaches...it was recommended to use a bit of Mineral Oil in each ear to coat the eardrum & muffle the noises. Mineral Oil is also a natural cleaning agent.

If your dog has a very severe, extreme reaction to fireworks & thunderstorms & you have not found a more natural approach to helping them that "works"...you may want to talk with your Vet & have a Rx medication on hand to help. These can include Xanax, Diazepam (Va**um), or Ace Promazine. NOTE: If going this direction, I prefer Diazepam or Xanax. Personally, I do not like Ace but, if this is the only option, talk to your Vet about the lowest possible level to start your specific dog at & to what level you can increase it IF needed to help. Further, when using any of these, I recommend using the med the first time when you are home so you can observe how the med. affects your dog. I like to try things the first time when the issue is NOT occurring. Just so I can observe my dog's reaction to the med without the extraneous aspect of the problem.

SILEO is a newer medication for NOISE REACTIVE DOGS. I personally know many people who reported good results. Some Vets may also prescribe Trazadone which is rather sedative for the dogs, but could possibly work if needed. Better to have the plan to help your buggers...so, start now!!!

You really need to provide help to your dog because every time they experience the "terror", it reinforces & validates their fears. Each exposure to the fear/terror inducing catalyst exacerbates their fear/terror & cause an increased response level!!

06/27/2025

THUNDERSTORM &/OR FIREWORKS ISSUES!!! A couple of times a year, I make a post on thunderstorms & fireworks. This is one of those times. We have lots of thunderstorms The 4th of July is almost here. So, NOW...is the time to try & find help for your dog/s if they experience anxiety or sheer panic/terror. It is the time to check into things that can help your dog/s!!!!

This is so important, you don't want to wait until the last minute!!!

PREPARE "NOW" FOR...thunderstorm issues & fireworks issues your dog has. Please take time...now, before the fact...to determine HOW to best HELP your dog/s endure upcoming thunderstorms or fireworks with the least amount of stress/anxiety as possible. First off, if you have an outside dog, PLEASE bring them indoors. Most dogs who have issues with storms or fireworks, their issues/reactions go beyond fear & panic. They experience utter, sheer TERROR!!!

All they know is they have to "get away" from what is happening. They will do anything. Chew out of a wood fence, dig under a fence, try to dig out of a concrete run bloodying their paws. If indoors & crated or fenced, they will grab at the wires with all their might & can damage their mouths & teeth. Claw at any confinement & damage their paws. Indoors...many dogs will try to escape any confinement. In their efforts to escape the noise that is causing their terror, they can hurt themselves & cause damage to the house.

For all of their physical traumas, the emotional trauma is every bit as severe or worse!! Even indoors when you are home, the dogs will often pace, pant, whine, cry. Owners know their dog can't help it...but, as it goes on & on...even the best of owners will often lose patience. This compounds the dog's trauma/terror level beyond description!! Be aware that leaving your dogs alone can also add to their terror levels.

There are "natural" approaches that can help some dogs. I have found that Melatonin is very helpful. It may take more than would normally be needed to calm your dog in other circumstances. There is no magical amount. I had a 60 # lab who only need 1/2 of a 3 mg. Melatonin. But, a 15 # Westie required 9 mg. to get any relief at all.

Some dogs are helped by Rescue Remedy. Some dogs are helped by DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromones). Sometimes, a dog can benefit from a Thunder shirt. I have had much input about these working to some degree or a lot! All of these seem to have a range of efficacy from one dog to another. Some are not helped at all. Others, helped "some", others...are helped a lot. I know there are many things out there that can help. A newer item that can help if the dog's issues are related to the SOUNDS are "ear muffs" for dogs! The one I am familiar with is called Mutt Muffs.

Please take time to develop a multi-tiered "game plan" as to how to help your dog. The television, radio, CD volume can help mask the noises to a degree. Years ago, before all the newer approaches...it was recommended to use a bit of Mineral Oil in each ear to coat the eardrum & muffle the noises. Mineral Oil is also a natural cleaning agent.

If your dog has a very severe, extreme reaction to fireworks & thunderstorms & you have not found a more natural approach to helping them that "works"...you may want to talk with your Vet & have a Rx medication on hand to help. These can include Xanax, Diazepam (Va**um), or Ace Promazine. NOTE: If going this direction, I prefer Diazepam or Xanax. Personally, I do not like Ace but, if this is the only option, talk to your Vet about the lowest possible level to start your specific dog at & to what level you can increase it IF needed to help. Further, when using any of these, I recommend using the med the first time when you are home so you can observe how the med. affects your dog. I like to try things the first time when the issue is NOT occurring. Just so I can observe my dog's reaction to the med without the extraneous aspect of the problem.

SILEO is a newer medication for NOISE REACTIVE DOGS. I personally know many people who reported good results. Some Vets may also prescribe Trazadone which is rather sedative for the dogs, but could possibly work if needed. Better to have the plan to help your buggers...so, start now!!!

You really need to provide help to your dog because every time they experience the "terror", it reinforces & validates their fears. Each exposure to the fear/terror inducing catalyst exacerbates their fear/terror & cause an increased response level!!

06/22/2025

IS YOUR DOG A "TALKER"? I absolutely LOVE what I call "the talkers". However, when a "talker" has a DEEP, booming "voice" some of their various vocalizations can be misunderstood. Some growlie noises are often part of their vocalizations/communications. We want our dogs to listen & understand OUR communications (human speak). I believe WE should try to understand THEIR communications (dog speak). BTW, the more you engage, acknowledge your dog when they "tell you their story &/or express their feelings", the more you will learn & understand about your dog's communication paths. Consider that even when your dogs "bark" their pack "alert", I always acknowledge their alert, thank them & then, ask them to "no bark, good no bark". This will enrich your relationship! Here is the link to my Chapter: GROWLS...UNDERSTANDING....
http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artgrowlsounds.htm

06/21/2025

MY "MAGIC TOUCH" TECHNIQUE!! I want to share with you a technique I developed years ago to help my Rocket who had times when he spiraled out of control due to his neurological problem (similar to the "stimulation" form of Autism. This helps with normal dogs in a variety of situations & circumstances. When your dog is triggered into an out of control response/behavior or super excited & keeps revving up:

1) Cup one hand on your dog's back, right behind their withers (shoulder blades). Use your thumb & fingers to create an upside down "U" shape on the back.

2) Apply slight to moderate pressure.

3) Simultaneously, place your other hand (full open palm) on your dog's fore chest (right below their neck & shoulders). This is the fullest area/spread of the chest.

4) Apply slight to moderate pressure as with your other hand.

5) You do not have to speak to them. If you do talk to them, use a low tone & calming tone. Let your voice "reflect" the emotional state you wish them to experience. A higher pitched or lilting tone actually stimulates the dogs.

This really does work. You will be able to feel their body "un-tense"/relax. Often you & others will be able to "see" the tensions release from their body. Now...once you sense, feel, or see the tension release...use a low, calming to say, good boy or good girl. Hope some of you find this as helpful as many of my clients, friends, & family members.

06/15/2025

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO all the Dad's out there. My "Dad" passed away April 1994.
My POP passed away 08-26-2017 when he joined Mom in the Heavens with their Maker. Today I wanted to honor Pop for all he brought into my Mom's life & mine. Pop was a beautiful Christian man. He would literally give you the shirt off his back. I loved him & miss do miss him dearly. Here is one of my favorite pics of Mom & Pop.

06/07/2025

IS YOUR DOG URINATING OR MARKING...There is a major difference between the two behaviors. This article is excellent. I address this very thing in my E-Book & also discuss it in every "consult" I do when someone contacts me about their dog "urinating" in the house. I would say, about ½ of the time...it is the marking behavior versus actual urination. I think you will find this most informative! Here is the link:

Dogs p*e in the house for many reasons, but they also urine mark. Learn to tell the difference between these behaviors and how to reduce marking.

06/06/2025

REMEMBERING THE HEROES OF D-DAY!! I fear the World may have forgotten what our fallen heroes & our remaining heroic Veteran's of D-Day gave & sacrificed in the name of FREEDOM. I pray the World has not...GOD BLESS! (www.thedogspeaks.com)

06/02/2025

DO YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A STRANGE DOG THREATENS/ATTACKS YOU & YOUR DOG? This is something every dog owner should know what to do...BEFORE the fact. Be aware that many of your "normal/human nature" responses could, & very likely will, elicit a more pronounced attack. I wrote an article that has received tremendously positive responses. If you never read another of my articles, "please" read this one. If you never "share" another article, please "share" this one. Here is the link to my article: ENCOUNTERING A THREATENING OFF LEASH DOG ON A WALK http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artdog.htm (www.thedogspeaks.com)

05/30/2025

EXCESSIVE BARKING: Barking is a self reinforcing behavior. The hardest thing for an owner is to "not" yell NO BARK! This is essential because when yelling we sound like another barking dog. What happens when one dog barks?? All dogs in the area start barking or increase their barking. So, yelling at your barking dog actually INCITES/fuels their barking. Make a sharp EHHH sound or use some other sudden noise/sound like a metal can with some small metal objects in it. Only shake it ONCE. The sound will cause a "startle/stop" reaction. The sudden sharp sound "startles" the dog and they "stop", momentarily. You have 2-3 seconds to REDIRECT your dog to you, some other activity & away from the catalyst for their barking or they "will" start barking again.

If your dog does not have a reaction to your initial startle/stop noise, try something else that has a different "tone, pitch" that your dog's hearing will react to. Do not "overuse" whatever sound or noise your dog has the "startle/stop" response. If you do, your dog will desensitize to that sound & it becomes no more than "regular noise" in their environment. Whatever your dog's "startle/stop" sound is, use it ONLY once for each episode. Avoid our human tendency to really do it over & over to really "make our point" because it will have the opposite effect!!

Your dog's own barking INFUSES their barking so it feeds itself. The sooner you can startle/stop the bark cycle, the easier it is to divert them to another behavior. The further into the bark cycle your dog gets, the harder it is for them to stop without help from us. This also means it is more difficult for us to help them stop barking. When one dog barks, it will start a cacophony of barking from any dog within earshot! NOTE: Dogs can hear certain sounds up to 7 miles away. SO, when you think your dog is barking for no reason...think again!

When your dog goes out first thing in the morning, they bark to beat the band! Watch their "ritual". You will see what I mean as they alert any dogs & other animals that your dog has arrived & their "turf" is actively being patrolled! This same thing occurs when you let the dogs out when you come home from work. It is especially fervent when the dogs are let out in the evening! Let your dog/s do what they instinctually need to do to keep their pack safe. Let them have their say. Then, calmly get their attention using the sharp EHHH sound or some sound to cause the "startle/stop" reaction & very quickly DIVERT their attention/focus from their barking cycle.

When your dog is barking & reacting to a specific catalyst, DO NOT yell to "no bark" Their hearing is so acute that when you raise your voice, it is like turning the TV up so loud you cannot make out the words. All they will know is their Pack Leader is upset. The dog barks & alerts their pack to an intruder &/or possible danger. Then, the pack leader reacts to the alert & becomes very agitated. The dog does not see this as you being upset at them. They see this as the pack leader is validating that YES, this is something to be dealt with & it is even more serious than you realized! This is a perfect example of thinking you are communicating one thing when you are communicating something reverse!

When working on a barking issue (or any issue), you must be consistent. Once you start a good "no bark" program, when you are not home or available to respond consistently to whatever the external catalyst is, BLOCK the visual. Why? Because every time the dog engages in whatever behavior you seek to stop or modify, that behavior is reinforced by the sheer nature of the behavior having occurred!!

For more "in depth" information, here are links to two Chapters from my E-book that go hand in hand to address barking issues: BARKING: http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artbarking.htm SHAKE CAN: http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artshakecan.htm For other interesting & helpful information, visit my website (www.thedogspeaks.com)

05/25/2025

MAY WE REMEMBER & HONOR...those who have protected us & given their all for our liberty & freedom. God bless our fallen heroes & their families. This country owes you a debt we cannot adequately repay. Also, extending our gratitude to the men, women, & canines currently serving in our Military & all of our "veterans". God Bless the United States of America. Take a moment to watch this beautiful video tribute.

https://www.facebook.com/Chad.Warner68/videos/1629459670940/

Send a message to learn more

05/20/2025

DO YOU WALK YOUR DOG OR DOES YOUR DOG WALK YOU?? I have previously discussed how a harness can help with the pulling issue. I strongly recommend ALL dogs are walked in a harness, even the most well behaved dog on walks. IF an unexpected situation occurs & your dog has to react OR you need to protect your dog, you have mush more control over your dog in a safer & healthier way that with the leash attached to the collar! In most cases, even with a harness, the dog still has to learn to not pull on their walk.

Step one is for the owner to understand why a dog pulls. One reason is once outside with all the wonders that being not only outside, but out of the enclosure of the yard, provides is very exciting & "stimulating"!! You can almost hear the dogs say..."free, free at last"...LOL!

Another reason the dogs pull is they catch the "scent" of something so intriguing that must be explored & they are driven to begin their investigation asap! There is no time to waste when such matters are "at paw & nose". Another reason for the pulling is the old adage: For every action, there is an equal & opposite "reaction". Hence, the harder you hold them back, the harder they pull forward. Sometimes, they will pull so hard their belly will seem to drag the ground.

The simple answer is to "hold your ground"!! Your dog wants to/is driven to move forward. Only allow forward motion when there is no tension on the leash. The moment there is pressure on the leash (no slack), you STOP dead in your tracks. The moment there is the slightest release of the pressure/tension, you step forward. Be prepared...you WILL have to stop again almost immediately. This is part of the process.

Ultimately, what will happen is...your dog learns that they ONLY get to move forward when there is NO pressure on the leash. This realization & thought process does not happen quickly. It will take many sessions. Note: When the dog is not pulling & you actually go a ways without having to stop...you likely will be back to square one the next day. The difference is, they will "reconnect" with what clicked for them the day before...and that "connection" will happen sooner the next day...even sooner the following day & so on.

Caution: Do NOT...I repeat, do not walk your dog when you cannot follow the fundamental ground rule of "no forward movement, unless there is NO pressure/tension on the leash"!! When you fail to follow this tenet, you set their progress back. You are prolonging the entire learning process. If you want to have your dog take power walks with you or jog, that is great....just NOT until the dog can do so without pulling on the leash!!

Caution: During this entire process, start to finish, do NOT yank, jerk on the leash. Merely stop in your tracks. Do not get irritated or impatient. KNOW beforehand that this IS a process. The first day, you will take one step forward & instantly have to stop again. The moment no pressure, the dog is OFF to the races (literally...LOL!). You have to be prepared. to stop each & every single time. It is like one step forward, stop...2 steps forward, stop, one step forward stop, maybe if you are lucky 3 steps forward, stop...LOL...LOL!!

If walking your dog is your exercise...NOT while training them to not pull on the leash. You take your walk for you. And, you do their walk to teach.

Personally, when I "stop" I do not say anything to my dog. No verbal correction or command. I want their learning process to be theirs. BY the same token, when no pressure on the leash & step forward...again, nothing verbal from me. I know this sounds counterintuitive. BUT, as they are trying to figure out what lets them go forward & what prevents them from going forward...I don't want my words to be part of their processing. I definitely think this is a case of "actions speak louder than words"!!

When teaching your dog anything, never...never get irritated or impatient. If you have had a bad day & are short on patience, skip their walk that day (during their training process). (www.thedogspeaks.com)

05/11/2025

Happy Mom's Day to all the mothers...I am remembering my MOM. It is hard to realize it will be 9 yrs (Nov. 15) since we lost her. Mom was truly "the heart, the soul, the rock of our family". She will always be an integral part of who WE are.

RIP MOM [06-14-29...11-15-2016]...Love you with all my heart, Mom!