Koppel's K9s

10/05/2023

Is mounting or hu***ng a sign of dominance in dogs?

Hu***ng or mounting is a fixed action pattern (FAP), which are innate behaviours. These are behaviours that are common to all members of a species and require no learning. A Fixed Action Pattern (FAP) is a predictable series and stereotypical sequences of complex actions triggered by a cue - www.simplypsychology.org. www.sciencedirect.com.

Hu***ng or mounting is NOT:
Dominance
Controlling you or another dog
Alpha behaviour
Only seen in unsterilised dogs
Only seen in males
Only seen in younger dogs
To cause you embarrassment
To get your attention or get back at you

Hu***ng or mounting by male or female dogs of any age CAN be due to:
Excitement
Sexual rehearsal
Burning off pent up energy
General stimulation...yippee, something’s happening!
Stress/Anxiety/Displacement behaviour
Play
Hyperarousal
A medical issue
Boredom
Frustration
Burning of excessive energy (like zoomies)
Ambivalence about a situation or a dog
Unease
Tiredness

If you are worried:
Make a note of how many times a day this is happening.
Take your dog for a medical check up.
Contact a up to date science-based behaviour consultant to identify the triggers and the emotions to be able to develope a modification plan to improve the emotional state and hence the behaviour.
What to do in the moment - if the dog underneath seems uncomfortable and stressed then please interrupt. It may mean that the 'top dog' is unable to read the body language of the other one. Rather redirect that energy to a toy or chew as opposed to saying off. Give him something mentally stimulating to do instead. If they are having turns and alternating this behaviour with other behaviours like chasing, tumbling, play bows, etc., then leave them be.
Be careful of your dog doing it to random dogs in a park that he does not know. The unknown dog could become aggressive due to not wanting the behaviour.

Note - many Google searches for this behaviour will bring up the word dominance. The behaviour is not due to such a simplistic, misunderstood term. Dogs do it to pillows, toys or furniture - do you think that they are trying to dominate those inanimate objects? Every dog is an individual with unique emotions. The feelings and motivations for the behaviour will differ from dog to dog but it is certainly not about dominance. Don't believe everything you read on Google and check your trainer's/behaviourist's credentials. Let's not label every behaviour beyond our understanding as dominant 🙂

Most guardians rush to sterilize their dogs when this happens...it may not make a difference.

10/05/2023

Reactive dogs.
This graphic looks a bit complicated....but looks can be deceiving. The idea is sound and simple and if you have a reactive dog this can change everything.
I know some of the terminology used by some in the industry is complicated....and this page will always try to break down often difficult/complex issues so they can be more easily understood......because understanding this concept will change how you work with your reactive dog.

Desensitisation and Counter conditioning
There is a measurable scale of rising emotions and/or stress with reactive dogs, this is measured by your own dogs body language and behaviour. At the lower numbers (1-4).... your dog is happy to view a trigger (another dog, car, horse etc) at a distance they feel comfortable with and you reward that calm looking.
Rewarding that calm looking is called counter conditioning, you are pairing something positive (such as food or a toy) and this will (over time) change how they feel about a trigger. This is a well timed reward.
Distance is needed for all of this (and every dogs distance is different....some have huge distances as a starting point).

These low level numbers are where you can desensitise your dog to their triggers (what they react to).

When your dog is reaching a level of 5 (going over threshold).....your dog is about to react, their body language is changing ......you need distance (quickly) to get back to those lower numbers again.
When your dog is reacting, desensitation work is very unlikely to work....they are unlikely to listen, focus or stop reacting unless you get distance.....distance is key with this work.
Over time and if you can have far more "low number looks" at your dogs triggers (and keep reactions minimal)....your dog will be able to view triggers more closely (reducing distance) and not react. Every dogs time frame is different and every dogs distance is also different.

Many clients attempt desensitisation when their dog is already over their threshold.....and the trigger is way too close.
We cannot dictate where to start this work....your dogs body language will let you know.
If your dog needs 20 metres from another dog to be at a 2 - 3 great !
If they need 50 metres from a trigger to be at a low level, then insisting on a closer interaction will not help them, they decide what is too close to a trigger...not us.

Distraction is NOT a long term solution for reactivity.....it sometimes has its place, but hiding and distraction are very temporary "solutions”.

If you have a reactive dog, there is hope, you can do this!

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08/31/2023

08/28/2023

A polite conversation between approaching dogs often starts before we even notice.

Running head on towards every dog is about as inappropriate as someone running round trying to hug everyone. We need to ask first and respect the response.

Sometimes our dogs need a little help with interactions and what might be socially acceptable. That way we set our dogs up for success as well as practicing respectful dog guardianship.

08/22/2023

Greeting a dog should not involve sticking your hand in their face.
Children are often told to put their hand out for the dog to sniff...and it is absolutely no coincidence that hands (and faces) are the most bitten body parts by dogs.
How should a dog perceive a strangers (or childs) hand right in their face ?
"If the dog moves into you to smell more...it means you can pat ".
No.......NO.... it absolutely does not.
All it means is the dog is trying to smell one of the most interesting places on a body.
Hands sweat.
They are full of information, scents and maybe even some tasty food smells still lingers.

It doesn't mean you are friends.
It doesn't mean the dog will like you.
and it certainly doesn't mean you now have an instant bond.

A dog sniffing a hand means they smelled what is thrust into their face.
Dogs are entitled to personal space just as much as we are.

08/07/2023

As dog guardians, we all want our loyal companions to be well-behaved and happy. But when our dogs exhibit undesirable behaviour, we may be tempted to resort to quick fixes like punishment collars or trainers who use forceful techniques. However, these methods come at a high cost to both the dog and...

06/07/2023

This is exciting! I was mentioned as one of the top dog trainers in the city!

If you're searching for the best dog trainers in Chicago, here are the top 15 dog trainers you should know about! Click to read this complete article now!

05/13/2023

It's warming up! Be careful walking your pets.

05/12/2023

Socialisation.
Play is NOT socialisation. Play is a separate and important skill.....but it isn't socialisation.
What is socialisation ?..... Calmness and acceptance.
What it isn't......over excited, scared, hyper, wary behaviour or PLAY.

I know that seems like a big statement to make for some people but society has some strange ideas of what socialisation is.

That doesn't mean dogs and puppies shouldn't play, it simply means one of the FIRST things they need to learn in life is be calm and accepting of dogs in general....then play can be added as a separate skill.

Calmness and acceptance IS socialisation.
Play is play.
Two completely separate things.

Dogs and puppies are a very small part of having a socialised dog. An important small part... but a very small part in a much bigger picture.
The word socialisation seems to be associated with play and that is a big issue with new puppy guardians/owners.

How you let other dogs meet yours and how your dog meets other dogs forms patterns of behaviour.
The more these dogs have over excited, over aroused and hyper behaviour around other dogs...........the more they understand this IS exactly how to meet dogs....and that is really problematic for many dogs.

True socialisation is acceptance and calmness in ALL the world has to offer.
Everything you encounter in everyday life...is exactly what you need to expose your dogs to.

Little and often
Positively and calmly......and you are well on your way to a well socialised puppy or dog.

One of the best lessons you can teach your puppy or dog is they do NOT need to interact with others.
They don't need to go to that hyper excited behaviour when other dogs are near.

They can be calm, assess the situation and choose to play and interact if they wish.....

That is true socialisation.

04/19/2023

03/30/2023

We have several short term, temporary foster, needs in April! That means you can take a dog or cat just for a few days - which is a *huge* help as their normal fosters travel.

Start here--> onetail.org/foster
Then you'll take our quick self-paced, virtual orientation.
Once you're in, YOU pick the animal you want to foster based on what works best for you!

Take Lou here, he's an easy going snuggle bud who promises to bring his jammies if you temp foster him 4/2-4/16!

03/22/2023

I still feel confused at times as to why there is still such a pushback to using food to train your dog.
“When will I not have to use it anymore?”
“Will I always have to have food on me?”
“Won’t he then become obsessed with all food?”
“I want him to do it because he loves me, not because I have food”
“Using food is cheating”
“Using food means you’re bribing not training”
“Using food will make my dog fat”
“I never had to use food with my last dog.”

These are all just some of the insane things I’ve heard and still hear. And it makes me crazy because I can’t imagine saying these things to my employees.
“When will I not have to pay you anymore?”
“If I pay you are you going to just become obsessed with money?”
“I really want you to work for me because you love me, not because I pay you”

Food is a tool. It is a TOOL. And just like any tool it can be used well or used poorly, but it’s one of the only tools in dog training that I hear more myths about than any other. And that’s unfortunate because when used properly it does so many good things -

Food is a primary reinforcer and for most dogs it’s the most valuable thing they can get. This makes it enormously powerful when trying to teach them how to do something new and/or complicated. That doesn’t mean they don’t appreciate a pet on the head, but they’d rather have the food and there’s NOTHING wrong with that. Just like you’d rather be paid in dollars rather than chocolate bars.

Food is fast. It’s easy to deliver, portable, and also variable in value (kibble vs cheese) so it’s very flexible also depending on your level and stage of training.

Food can help create powerful positive associations for dogs as well as counter condition negative associations they already have because of its value to them. Using food in the presence of other dogs, people and environments helps your dog have a positive association with them and this in and of itself is incredibly powerful. That’s something I don’t think we consider nearly enough when training our dogs even when they’ve past the learning phase.

Food does not have to make your dog a beggar, fat, or totally dependent on it. The context in which you deliver it, the way you ration out the food - treats vs meals and healthy choices - and also the way you cue the dog when training all help alleviate these issues.

I pay my dogs regularly and have no shame in that. As they get better at skills I ask them to work harder or longer for the pay just like as adults we have to work a full week or two before we get our paychecks. I use higher value for harder things - just like you like to get paid time and a half when you work Christmas, and lower value for easy stuff. I watch to make sure my dogs hope for the reward but don’t expect it and don’t take it personally when they’d rather come back to me for cheese instead of a pet. I focus on the fact that they came back.

Getting paid at work is a big reinforcer for us but it’s also not the only reason we go is it? The relationships you have with your coworkers, the pride you have in your job etc are all intricate parts of your motivation, but that takes TIME to build, and at first it’s usually just for the pay. Same with training your dog. At first, yes, it’s for the food, but as you continue and do it right it becomes more about the teamwork, the fun and the relationship, not just the pay. And THAT’S what I wish more people understood. Over time your dog will work often without food for you because he truly enjoys it now, and he’s been reinforced by the relationship and countless reinforcements over time. But you have to put that time and patience in first to get there. And it’s worth it. I promise.
-Helen St. Pierre

03/21/2023

Fearful or frustrated? Which is which? Often it's next to impossible to tell, just by looking at dogs on leash. Fearful and frustrated dogs often present the same way - lunging, growling, barking. And if we assume that all leash reactive dogs are fearful or aggressive, we're dooming our social, frustrated dogs to a life of no dog interactions, which is a welfare issue. No member of a species should be kept away from all other members of their species because they're frustrated. We need to do better. That's the topic of this week's post. Read it here:
https://rescuedbytraining.com/2023/03/13/reactivity-fearful-frustrated/

03/20/2023

Oh

Be careful what you read on the internet. There is so much old and outdated advice including the "put your hand in your dog's food bowl"... please don't it is a great way to create resource guarding issues with your dog.

03/20/2023

So excited to be working with the Goodman Theater as their dog training consultant. what as fun opportunity to educate and be a resource in a new way.

01/26/2023

One for the reactive dogs.....
but also EVERY dog needs a movement word.
Movement words (and a solid movement word that is understood) for reactive dogs are especially important if you are aware of something before your dog may react to it.
Perhaps a cat has crawled out under a car or a dog has come into your dogs "reaction zone".
Perhaps your dog has met a friend and instead of a struggle to separate... your dog will now quickly refocus back on you and the walk.
Your dog may be heavily into a scent (but you have been waiting for a while and you have to get home) you can say your movement word and off you go.....
They can be that effective....but only with practice (and however long that may take).
Don't rush this....really solidify this.
Always make it positive....
If you use this word to encourage movement towards what they may be afraid of, it will lose its effect.
So add a movement word in.....you may just be amazed at how many uses it can have.

01/07/2023

Do you struggle with walking your dog? Does you wrist, shoulder or back hurt after a walk?

Does your dog lunge or pull towards food, squirrels, dog and people or even a favorite location?
Have you ever thought to look at how you hold the leash and how that can impact the experience and safety in addition to teaching them?

If so you’re in luck. I’ll be hosting an ”our end of the leash” seminar that addresses common errors dog handlers make that add extra risk and difficulty when working on leash skills. We will also have a personal trainer to provide exercises that can help prevent injury for you.

Check out the link to find out more or purchase a spot-

Our End of the Leash Seminar Our End of the Leash Seminar Wednesday, January 25th @ 6pm Class Description: Special guests Sarah Koppel, dog trainer, and Kat Poulos, personal trainer, will join us on Wednesday January 25th at 6pm to teach us how to hold the Leash properly for physical safety, working...

12/18/2022

Great reminders

12/08/2022

We hear so much "but his tail was wagging".....

Remember just because a dog's tail is wagging does not mean he is happy or friendly. Dog's tails are a continuation of the other body language they are expressing in any given situation.

11/29/2022

I feel the need to post this again, as the horse world really needs to get up to speed.

Cmon people!! Train your horses and pets with food! With reward based training! With Positive Reinforcement training!! 🧡

Photo Credit/Copyright:- Lili Chin www.doggiedrawings.net

11/29/2022

The Science of “Zoomies” 🐕⚡

Zoomies are among the cutest, funniest things pets do. It’s dogs’ way of showing that they’re irrepressibly happy. 🐶 This behavior is entirely normal for many animal species, both wild and domesticated, so there’s no need to worry unless there’s a risk your pet could be injured.

Learn more about this adorable behavior in today’s free article linked below.

More on dogs and their crazy zoomies here: http://bit.ly/3UQiAuO

11/23/2022

Here at Doggone Safe we are dedicated to dog bite prevention through education and awareness. Our mission is to promote education initiatives for the purpose of dog bite prevention and increased safety around dogs.
https://doggonesafe.com/About

11/23/2022

Training.......

11/23/2022

Training Tip Tuesday!

Preventing unwanted behaviors is the more important part of changing them.

10/01/2022

When we punish dogs for growling, we aren't helping them feel better about whatever it is that is threatening them. Instead, we are teaching to stop letting us know when they feel unsafe.

The result? A dog who stops giving warning signs and "bites out of the blue."

09/29/2022

When working with anxiety, we’re often focused on teaching the dog to love the thing that they are upset about. But as grad Malena DeMartini points out in the excerpt from her book, neutrality is the goal in separation anxiety training.

You can grab a copy at the link in our story or here: https://www.dogwise.com/separation-anxiety-in-dogs-next-generation-treatment-protocols-and-practices/

09/13/2022

Omg I love this

09/13/2022

So true