Sit Stay Succeed Dog Training

03/22/2025

Limited time ---> for every Kong purchased one will be donated to a shelter

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!The KONG for a CAUSE

03/21/2025

My dog only listens when I have a treat!!

Is this your situation? Let's chat about reinforcement and building strong, reliable behavioral responses.

First, we need to identify what went wrong. The most common reason for a dog to only respond when a treat is in front of him is because you never changed your reinforcement schedule. More on that to come. But, there is a definite order to how you should be training your dog. If you only ever hold a treat out for your dog to see, then ask for a behavior, we are actually bribing him, not necessarily teaching him. Now, when we are first training a new cue, we may use luring, which does require putting a treat in front of your dog. However we want to phase that out as soon as possible! The order of operations, so to speak, should be: cue (ask for a behavior verbally), hand signal (if you have one), mark the correct behavior, and then reward. The treat should arguably appear out of nowhere. You must execute perfect timing on your mark, and you absolutely must reward your dog each time in the early stages of learning. Think of a reward as paying your dog for a job well done.

Now that we know the why, how do we address this issue? If you have poisoned or overused the cue word (two additional reasons a cue may not work without a super yummy treat in sight), you may have to start over with a different word and re-teach the behavior. If you are still in the early stages of training, address your reinforcement schedule. The reinforcement schedule is basically how frequently you reward your dog. In the beginning you want to reward every correct attempt, or, every successive approximation (smaller increments of a behavior, used when shaping instead of luring) of a final behavior. You must be consistent to help your dog learn. As he shows that he is understanding your cue(s) you will want to move to a variable reinforcement schedule. This means that you do NOT reward each successful behavior, but rather, you offer rewards at random intervals. So, you may reward the 2nd correct attempt, then the 5th correct attempt, then the 1st correct attempt, and so on. This works to actually strengthen the behavior as it 1) prevents extinction, and 2) keeps your dog's motivation up as he knows that eventually a reward WILL come. In difficult training scenarios (such as when you increase distractions) you may have to temporarily move back to a continuous reinforcement schedule by rewarding every attempt.

So, now that you are on a variable reinforcement schedule you should see strong behavioral responses to your cues. You can slowly increase the time between each reward, but, the key is to never completely stop rewarding. As mentioned above, think of a reward as payment for a job. If we completely take away a paycheck, why would your dog continue to offer the behavior? Would you work for free? However this doesn't mean you have to use treats forever. If your dog is responsive to a particular toy, physical affection, or even the environment, you can use these options for a reward. The caveat here is that your dog determines what is rewarding, not us. This means that if your dog doesn't have strong play drive or enjoys physical affection, but has a strong response to treats, then it would be most beneficial to continue to use treats. This also means that in some scenarios we have to increase the value of a reward, as when we are making the training scenario more difficult. So, where in some cases a good scratch might work, in others you may have to use hotdogs or boiled chicken. Or, whatever your dog loves the most.

If you need help teaching new behaviors or proofing current behaviors, shoot us a message!

03/20/2025

Have you ever had a dog do this?

Our first dog Dakota, was the queen of head-in-lap + puppy-dog-eyes. She was extremely social and loved attention, but was very well-mannered and would go lie down if asked. If she was feeling sassy, instead of coming over to me, she would sit about 6 ft away and look at me. Then she would wave at me (one of her tricks). If that didn't work and she really wanted to turn on the charm, she would lay down on her side, place her paws over the bridge of her nose, and would peek over her paws at me. Always wagging her tail (this was also a combination of tricks that I taught her.).

Kaiser would sit about a foot or two away and stare at me. Then he would do what I called a "happy-hop" (where he would hop about an inch or so off the ground) with an accompanying "w-o-o-f". He literally woofed the word woof 😅 This was usually for food, play, or to go outside to potty.

Mya stares deep into my soul and then places her paw on my leg. I never taught her "shake" so this was something she figured out on her own. She is quite polite about it, and is always very gentle. As with her brother, this is either to designate she is hungry or needs to potty (or, wants a sniffy game).

What does your dog do to elicit attention??

03/20/2025

Today is Dogs in Yellow Day. This day helps bring attention to dogs who are anxious, nervous, or fearful and require space while out of the home. You may see a yellow leash or leash cover, a yellow lead, a yellow harness, or maybe a yellow cape, bandana, or ribbon. These items tell you that the dog is, or can be, uncomfortable in certain situations so it's best to give them a wide berth. Don't allow your dog to approach and give the other dog and handler space. It doesn’t matter if your dog is friendly. Respect the space of the other dog and the fact that the handler is doing their best to advocate for their dog. These dogs deserve to go out on walks just as much as any other dog. Try to be patient and understanding and if you cannot move out of their way, either ask before approaching or ask how you can best help the situation. If you are unsure based on the yellow you are seeing (maybe the owner simply likes the color and bought their dog a yellow fashion collar, or they use a yellow leash for high visibility) then all you have to do is ask.

Have you seen any dogs in yellow? How did you react?

03/19/2025

Reward the behavior you want to see! Reward reward reward! Every moment is an opportunity for learning, so what behavior do you see, what behavior do you want to see, and how are those behaviors being rewarded? This will affect what behaviors you see in the future. This also goes for behaviors that we either unintentionally reward as well as behaviors that are being rewarded by something that isn't you.

What is reinforcing for your dog?

Positive reinforcement training isn't simply throwing cookies at your dog.

First of all, reinforcement comes in many forms and it is your dog, not you, that decides what is actually reinforcing (as well as what is reinforcing in any given scenario, as some behaviors require better rewards than others). Yes, treats are the most common reinforcement, but you can also use toys, affection, the environment, or praise depending on the dog.

Secondly, you have to communicate with your dog so that they understand why they are getting that reinforcement. How do we do this? We pair a marker (either verbal or with a clicker) with a behavior, and then you follow that up with a reward. Timing is important here, as is consistency. The clearer you are with your communication and the more you reward for any given behavior, the easier it will be for your dog to "get it". We like to use a verbal marker: "yes!" as it is always with you (you don't have to find or fumble with a clicker). So, any time you see behavior you like, mark it, and reward!

What does this look like?

- reward the behavior you want, any time you see it
- manage the behavior you don't want
- train alternative behaviors for those you don't prefer
- create a behavior pattern by being consistent

All animals learn via positive reinforcement, so if you feel like your dog isn't getting it, look at your timing, your consistency, the reward itself, and any factors that could be affecting learning.

Need help? Shoot us a message!

03/17/2025

Happy St. Paddy's Day! How are you training today?

(Photos from a year ago, when our wubby boy was still alive)

03/13/2025

There are so many reasons why our dogs behave as they do. But, it is never because they are stubborn, naughty, dominant, or doing it on purpose or to spite you. Dogs simply don't have the mental capacity to think this way. While it can be complex, with a little detective work we can uncover the root behavior (or the "why"), which will then allow us to effect lasting change through training and behavior modification. The reasons for behavior can differ from dog to dog, so this is why we require a detailed consultation prior to starting any training sessions.

Some reasons for the behavior we observe are:

Genetics
Overstimulation
Current emotional state
Pain or illness
Environment
Unmet needs (mental, physical, social)
Prior experiences
Inappropriate or inconsistent training

Sometimes the "why" can be a combination of these reasons. In fact, it's quite common to have more than one reason.

Once we figure out the why (or "whys") then we can start training. Otherwise no amount of training in the world will be effective.

Does your dog have any behaviors that you do not prefer? What do you think the "why" is for them?

03/11/2025

A little funny for your day! As for the zoomies, what are they and why do they occur?

The what!

Frenetic Random Activity Periods (also known as "FRAPS") are sudden bursts of energy where your dog runs (zooms) around the area. Be aware, however, that he may not pay as close attention to where he is going as compared to when he doesn't have the zoomies, so, make note of the surroundings. Running on slippery floors or leaping off furniture could cause injury.

The why!

There actually isn't a known cause for the zoomies but they often occur as a way for your dog to release pent up stress or frustration, or simply because he is happy to see you. They can also happen during play (either with you or another dog), when overstimulated, or even late in the evening.

What do we do about the zoomies?

I usually advise to just let your dog get that energy out, as long as he is safe. You usually only see zoomies in puppies and younger dogs. If the zoomies are occurring frequently, it is always a good idea to note when the zoomies occur - what immediately preceeded their arrival. If you think that your dog is anxious or frustrated, it could be from lack of mental or physical stimulation. Interact more with your dog during the day via training, play times, tug, taking him on sniffy walks, exercising him, or giving him scent games. This may not take away all the zoomies, but it may help reduce their frequency. If you dog is doing it because he is happy to see you, you can work on making your return home a bit more boring.

How does your dog zoom?

03/10/2025

We have said it before and will say it again. We LOVE when a dog growls! Why? It's communication! A growl generally tells us that the dog is uncomfortable and it's our job to figure out why. Always look at the totality of circumstances when problem-solving. What was going on before the growl (this is called the antecedent, but you can call it a trigger)? Did your dog have a bone he was chewing on and someone tried to take it away? Was your dog laying down and a puppy pounced on him? Did you pet your dog on his back? Your dog could be growling to protect resources, to tell another dog (or human) to back away, or because he was in pain. Maybe your dog is fearful, or conversely, maybe he is simply trying to play. Look at the what to figure out the why.

What happens if we ignore our dog's growl? Your dog may feel like his feelings about a particular trigger are not being respected. When this happens dogs may choose to skip the growl in the future and jump straight to a bite. This is when "he bit out of nowhere" occurs. So, respect that communication. Leave your dog alone while he is eating that bone. Keep the puppy separate. Have your dog checked for pain.

Pop your questions about growling in the comments below.

03/08/2025

I would like to talk about something that happened today on our walk. A supposedly well meaning gentleman was walking toward us on the path. The two of us at the front moved to the far side of the path, away from him, to take advantage of the moment and conduct training (I'm not sure what the rest of the group did as they were behind us). He approached us, first the team at the very front, and then myself, and went to pet without asking or receiving permission.

It can be difficult to tell someone "no" as it can seem confrontational. But we have to advocate for our dogs, as our dogs can't do it themselves. If "no" is too direct for you (which is fine!), you can say that your dog is in training, your dog needs space, your dog is anxious around new people/dogs/whatever you want to use as an excuse, or any other statement that will communicate that you do not want your dog to be touched. Unfortunately there are some people who feel entitled to pet any dog they see, regardless of what is said to them. Thankfully, there are more people who will stop and listen, as long as you speak up.

Your dog has every right to be in public, even if he isn't social. As the owner, you have to make the best decisions for your dog and be ready to intervene if someone doesn't follow your directions. You can teach your dog how to do a 180° to walk away (train this BEFORE you have to use it) or you can even step and put your body physically in-between the person and your dog. Even if you DO have a super social dog, you may not want him to meet anyone in that moment, for whatever reason.

This even happens with dogs wearing training vests (whether they are simply a pet dog "in training", or a SDiT or SD who absolutely cannot be distracted as they are training or working). Sometimes these vests actually attract more attention, so you have to remember to be confident when people approach you.

Children are always a sensitive topic with dog training, and their parents are not always going to teach the best behavior to them. Children tend to rush up to dogs to throw their arms around the dog's neck, kiss the dog's face, or simply pet wherever they can reach. Children are face level for many dogs, so if your dog bites, even out of fear, it can result in lots of damage. Sometimes we do have to say "no", and sometimes we have to repeat ourselves. Sometimes parents will get upset. But that isn't your problem, really. Remember, YOU are the only advocate for your dog at any given moment, and you have to ensure that your dog feels safe.

Pop your questions or experiences in the comments below!

03/08/2025

What a gorgeous morning for a socialization walk! We had a lovely group, as always, with great conversation. We did about 2 miles with a few breaks, at a casual pace, and all the dogs did wonderfully. We even had some unplanned elements to work with at varying distances: joggers, a walker, cyclists, and horseback riders. If you would like more information on these walks, or would like to join us in April, shoot us a message!

My phone unfortunately missed the focus on several photos and I didn't realize until after we got home, but hopefully you will enjoy what we have to work with 😀

03/06/2025

Positive reinforcement training is not simply feeding your dog treats. This is a common misconception. R+ training uses food *very* strategically in several different ways:

The most well-known method is to reinforce behavior that we want to see more of with food. This is operant conditioning at its core, and is what helps teach your dog new behaviors. Behavior that is rewarded is behavior that will be repeated. Simple as that. Now of course other elements, such as timing, consistency, and management also affect the ability of a dog to understand and learn, but rewarding with food is how we pay our dog for a job well done. (We do recognize, and utilize, other reinforcement such as environmental, toys, and physical affection, however with most dogs we always start with food)

Another way to use food is when we want to change how our dog feels about something. This is rooted in classical conditioning, where a dog learns to make associations. This type of learning is different than experiencing consequences, as in operant conditioning. We use food in classical conditioning to help our dog feel better about something. For example, a dog that is fearful of other dogs can learn to feel better about being in their presence by using high value treats and working under threshold.

You can use food as enrichment and to help with emotional regulation. Treat scattering encourages your dog to slow down and sniff, which releases endorphins and dopamine. This can actually calm your dog down when in a state of heightened emotion. You can also utilize sniffing games to enhance your dog's mental health, and as a bonus tire him out.

Food, as a reward, teaches your dog that good things happen in certain situations. This in turn boosts their trust and confidence, which helps build a stronger bond with you. Your dog will look forward to interacting and working with you and won't be afraid of negative consequences of they get something wrong.

How do you use food in your training?

03/04/2025

Update! Little shadow is approximately 4 months old and is the cutest little landshark! While her foster mom has fallen head over heels in love, we are still looking for the absolute most perfect home for this munchkin, juuust in case she can't keep her. We are now thinking that Shadow may be a lab mix (unknown breed) or lab x gsd mix. Either way, she has a ton of energy and is exploring the world with her little teeth so patience is a must. We reiterate, she needs a perfect perfect perfect home!!! She absolutely loves to explore the woods and creeks so an active individual or family (no young children) would be a good fit. She would love a playmate, too, so a mature dog who is great with puppies would be icing on the cake. She will need gentle, positive guidance to learn how to live in our world. Puppies are a ton of work and require consistency to understand what we expect of them. This is not a dog you can bring home and expect to lay on her bed quietly, chewing on a treat, while you surf Netflix. She craves interaction. Yes, she needs about 18 hours of sleep a day, but the rest of the time she will be wide open yet eager to learn. Let us know if you think you may be the perfect match!

03/03/2025

Good morning friends! We have a little bit of a schedule change for our socialization walk this Saturday! We will be meeting at Occoneechee, again, and will start at 9:30am. This is to accommodate several out of towners. Next month we will be back in Boydton and will resume our regular walks at 830am.

If you would like to join us this month, please contact us and tell us a little about your dog. This event is wonderful for puppies learning to be neutral around other dogs, nervous or anxious dogs who need a confidence boost, or overfriendly dogs who need to learn to focus on their person. Please, one dog per handler, and Occoneechee regulations require a 6ft leash. We do not allow flexi leads as you have minimal control over your dog. This is not a play session and dogs will not meet one another. Our socialization walks are not appropriate for aggressive dogs.

Proof of rabies and core vaccinations are required for dogs 1 year and under. All other dogs require rabies. UTD core vaccs for older dogs are suggested, but not required.

$15 per dog/handler. As we will be at a state park, parking fees (paid directly to the park) will also apply.

We hope to hear from you!

www.sitstaysucceed.com
[email protected]

02/28/2025

Super stoked to be working with 6 month old Sirius and his mom! He was top of his puppy class and is doing extremely well for an adolescent. He was *so* excited to see me but it was obvious his mom has worked so very hard with him and he was eventually able to settle quite nicely. Duration will come with time, but I was very impressed with him! We will be working on CGC skills, leash skills, and reinforcing what he already knows as he continues to mature. He is also destined to be a service dog, so he has many more skills to learn over the next year and a half or so (it generally takes 2 years, on average, to train a SD - this includes foundation work, supporting the dog through adolescence, task training, and public access training). Everyone say "hi"!

02/27/2025

We support both rescue and reputable breeders and fully recognize that each have their own arguments for why someone may select one over the other. But today is about rescuing.

Being a rescue is not easy. The dog may have been wandering on the street for months, tied up to a tree for years, bounced around from home to home, or just generally not been given the best start in life. They may have missed out on the critical socialization period as a young puppy or may have been born to a mother who was anxious, stressed, or fearful (which adds a genetic component to anxiety). The pup may have been abused or simply trained via flooding and aversives, both of which suppress behavior and can either shut a dog down or cause reactivity at some point down the road.

But, none of those things makes the dog bad. He isn't "broken", in need of "fixing". He may simply have big emotions and is therefore in need of a quiet home and a patient, supportive new owner.

It can take some dogs months, even years, before they find themselves comfortable and assimilated in a new home. They may bring obvious behavior challenges with them that are immediately apparent, or, they may show up once the dog is finally comfortable enough to be themselves.

It absolutely takes a special person to rescue. You may not have any history to go off of, but despite that it is up to you to help your new dog heal. And that can sometimes be a challenge. But, it is totally doable!

Now, there are some dogs who, against all odds, seem to transition from the street or rescue into a home with little issue at all. They may love other dogs, cats, and small children. They may end up being the "perfect" dog in your eyes. These dogs absolutely exist.

But, you may not know which dog you have until after you bring him home. And that's ok!! Welcome him with open arms and lots of patience. Some dogs need to learn how to learn, so take things slow and build upon each new skill. Stay consistent and kind. And of course, seek a trainer or behaviorist if you feel you need a little assistance.

Have you rescued a dog? What was your experience?

02/26/2025

Tricks!! Teaching your dog tricks is an excellent way to work his mind. This is especially helpful for higher energy dogs who have an active mind (and body) as it can supplement physical exercise to help wear him out. You can even intersperse them with regular obedience, or even when using the flirt pole to help support frustration tolerance/impulse control. You don't have to teach anything fancy, and there are many books and videos out there that can get you started. However if you find that trick training is your dog's favorite thing, you can earn trick dog titles through various organizations, including the AKC.

Shown below are just two of Dakota's many tricks. One is "Does Kaiser want a treat?" in which she puts her paw over his face as if to say, "No! They are all mine!" (left image). The other is "Kiss Kaiser", which is pretty self explanatory (right image).

What is your dog's favorite trick? Or, what trick would you like to teach your dog?

02/25/2025

Let's talk crates and vehicles. It is actually safest for your dog to travel in a hard-sided crate that is strapped down. While harnesses + tethers do exist, and help if you have to hit the brakes, they will not protect from a very hard impact or rollover. Saying that, it is important to consider access to the crate, once the dog is inside. How will you get your dog out in the event of an accident? Some companies build crates with two doors, a front and a side door, or a front and a back door. This way you have a greater chance of being able to access your dog in an emergency. For example, if you drive an suv and are hit in the rear, you may not be able to open your tailgate. While your dog may remain safe inside the crate, having a second access point will allow him to rejoin you more quickly, and easily. Otherwise you will have to wait for emergency services to arrive and extract him. Even if you choose a crate with only one door, it will still offer much more protection than free access in the vehicle.