Mountain Aquariums

05/30/2022

Happy Memorial Day! You know what that means, right? Time to buy a mattress! Wait, no.. err.. yeah, but mostly this is a day of remembrance for the courage, the honor, the dangers, and what the men and women of our armed forces have given for their country, their people-- you and I. Please, take a moment and think of all those who gave the ultimate sacrifice for their country.

Now get back to flipp'n some burgers on the grill and good times with friends and family that the good folks of our military fought, and continue to fight, for.

05/30/2022

Forget the mattress sales, get your tank or pond clean!

05/04/2022

03/21/2022

Very impressive engineering. We considered something similar, but the only company that would insure the fish was Aflac and their duck kept eating our drivers.

02/25/2022

When your tank is dirty, it's all you can focus on for all the wrong reasons.

02/16/2022

Having some email difficulties again- should be working just fine shortly while we re-evaluate our decision to hire an ill-tempered lobster to head the IT department.

02/06/2022

Let’s talk dinos. No, not the scary rip-you-to-shreds kind. Not the big purple cuddly kind either. I’m talking about dinoflagellates. These dinos are tiny. Microscopic, even. But they can still be rather destructive and lay waste to your pristine well-kept aquarium very quickly.

These single-celled creatures encase themselves in a protective glass-like layer of silica and are found in all of the oceans of the world. Oh, but you have a FRESHWATER aquarium? Unfortunately, this leads directly to a couple of misconceptions about dinoflagellates that need to be addressed.

Dinoflagellates are only a problem in saltwater aquariums. WRONG! There are plenty of freshwater dinos and they are just as prevalent and problematic as their salty cousins. In the case of freshwater aquariums, most people who have them think they have a really annoying type of algae they just can’t get rid of.

Dinoflagellates love water with zero nitrates and phosphates. EXTREMELY WRONG! Dinoflagellates *require* nitrates and phosphates to live and multiply. This is a case of correlation ≠ causation. Yes, extended periods or no nitrates and phosphates, especially when removed via additives or reactor media, do correlate with an outbreak of dinoflagellates, it is important to understand what the actual cause is. When nitrates and phosphates remain low or non-existent for extended periods, the beneficial microbes that processes them die off since there is nothing for them to feed on. Now suppose your reactor media becomes less effective over time, you use less additives, feed slightly more than usual or change foods, or for any of a number of other reasons, your nitrates and phosphates increase. Your tank may not have enough of the beneficial microbes to process them. Typically, these microbes can out-compete dinoflagellates. But there aren’t enough of them now, and the dinos take advantage of that. They begin to multiply. Exponentially. Every 24 hours, their numbers will double. With this type of growth rate it doesn’t take long for them to go from barely noticeable to having overrun your entire tank and sump.

You need a UV sterilizer to get rid of dinoflagellates. NO! A UV sterilizer certainly will kill them, along with everything else exposed to it. This includes all the beneficial microbes such as nitrifying bacteria and beneficial phytoplankton. This can send your entire tank's microbiome out of whack, causing chaos in the nitrogen cycle, and end up making managing the issue far more complex.

You must kill all of the dinoflagellates as fast as possible. DANGEROUSLY WRONG. Dinoflagellates have a nasty little surprise. They are really good at producing and/or concentrating and storing toxins found in their environment. When they die, these toxins are released into the water and can have a devastating impact on all livestock in your tank. In nature, these are called red tides, and are known for causing massive fish kills due to oxygen depletion and toxin releases, the deadliest of which being maitotoxin. For perspective, it is 5 times more toxic than tetrodotoxin. Tetrodotoxin is the same stuff in puffer fish, including the legendary fugu- a Japanese delicacy that must be prepared by an expert or else consuming it will result in death. It is also found in some of the ocean’s other deadliest critters, such as the blue-ring octopus whose nearly-painless bite can cause death in as little as 3 minutes. Maitotoxin is 5-times MORE toxic that THAT. While each little dinoflagellate only has a teeny tiny bit of toxin in it, when they all die at once it could be enough to create a toxic environment for your fish, and begin killing off things in your tank.

OMG I have silicates in my water! I must remove them all! Again, NO. While an overabundance of silicates, particularly in a marine tank, can lead to issues promoting a breakout of dinos, you actually do want some silicates in your tank. There are plenty of *good* things that require silicates to grow- especially when it comes to beneficial phytoplankton. If you do have an overabundance of silicates and wish to reduce them, do not rely on a RODI water filtration system. They will get out some, yes, but even when it reads 0 TDS (total dissolved solids) there can still be silicates present. If you are dead-set on reducing them, a media reactor can do the trick.

So what does all this mean, and what can you do about dinoflagellates? Well, eliminating them completely is not a realistic goal. If you are experiencing an outbreak, they have probably been in your tank for a long time but conditions were never quite right for them to take over. There are various methods to deal with the dinos, but they all have the same end-goal, and that is to make the tank more suitable for the beneficial bacteria and phytoplankton and less ideal for the dinos. This will give the good things a leg up and help them outcompete the dinos, once again keeping them in check to the point that they aren’t even noticeable. What differs is HOW you achieve that end-goal, and there are multiple ways to do so. Some involve the addition of medications or water conditioners, some have blackouts, and others use slow and gradual changes to the water chemistry and addition of good bacteria and phytoplankton to outcompete the dinos. Which method you choose and what is best for the tank can be a difficult decision to make. We highly suggest you read up on different methods of dinoflagellate control from known and reputable sources, preferably published. If you are unsure of the best route to take for your tank, are concerned about doing it yourself, or simply don’t want to deal with the hassle, just pick up the phone and give us a call or send us a message or email. We will happily schedule an in-home consultation and design an action plan specific to your tank's needs and get started.

01/23/2022

Now Serving Maryland!

01/21/2022

There is nothing quite like the beauty of an island paradise. From the beauty and colors of a coral reef and the fish that call it home, to the crystal blue waters with waves that gently wash upon the shore of pristine white fish p**p, and the palm tree.. wait, what?! FISH P**P?!

Yes, fish p**p. That lovely white sand you see is, well.. fish p**p. Nearly all of it. And most of it is all thanks to Parrotfish. With nearly a hundred species that call the reef home. While these gals* (*more about that later) look like they have incisors that would put even the largest rats to shame, they actually have very small teeth. Lots of them. All lined up into row after row. In total, they have around 1,000 teeth packed into over a dozen rows. And that's not all! Their teeth are also super tough. They are made of a super hard mineral that puts all other teeth to shame, even your own. They are actually the hardest in the world! But that's not enough for the Parrotfish. All of these super-hard teeth and its many rows fuse together to form a bird-like beak. As hard as they are, over time some will wear down and fall out. But no need for a dental appoint, no-sir-ee. Thanks to all those rows of teeth, it has another already waiting to take its place.

So what does this have to do with fish p**p? Well, it's all about what the parrotfish uses its incredible dental hardware for. When the parrotfish wants a snack, it doesn't look for a smaller fish or a lovely salad of sea grass. It prefers rocks. Well, sort of...

Parrotfish eat coral. LOTS of coral. They aren't really after the rocky bits of calcium carbonate that make up the skeleton of the coral, but rather the fleshy bits and microscopic organisms that live on and inside it. Because of this, one mouthful doesn't provide the parrotfish with a whole lot of energy, so like a panda eating bamboo, it just keeps eating. As it eats, its stomach produces hydrochloric acid which breaks down the food and leaches out minerals and other nutrients that the fish needs. But it also further breaks down some of the calcium carbonate and bleaches it white in the process. What is left is an indigestible white waste product that must be excreted. Sand. White sand. The parrotfish p**ps out white sand-- and a lot of it. An average parrotfish will p**p out about 2½ pounds of sand a day. That's over 900 pounds of sand p**ped out a year by just one fish. Over time, this becomes those pristine white beaches of the tropics. And it's almost all fish p**p.

Ah, but there is one more thing I mentioned earlier about them being "gals." While not true for every species of parrotfish, the vast majority of them start out as all females. It isn't until they are fully mature and later in their lifespan that some will turn into males. They are known as protogynous fish, which literally means "female first," that go through a process called sequential hermaphrodism. While this may sound strange, it is actually quite common in the aquatic world, especially with reef fish.

So if you ever visit the tropics enjoying a mai tai or building a sandcastle on the beach, or even just gazing at some gorgeous photography, don't forget to thank the parrotfish for all his hard work.. uh... making the sand.

01/19/2022

Thank you, David McGinnis, for sharing this in the WV Reef Club group. It is a wonderful, informative, engaging, and fun educational documentary.

01/19/2022

In honor of National Popcorn Day, we would like to announce that we are working on an in-tank live camera feed and hope to have it up in the next couple of weeks.

Note: The fish will not actually be wearing the cameras. For some reason, they did not seem to like this idea.

01/18/2022

So, you just picked up an aquarium, filled it up with some water, got your gravel and decorations looking great, and you’re all set for some fish, right? Well, not quite. If you add a bunch of fish right now, more than likely you will experience a condition that not only is frustrating and discouraging, but possibly expensive. That condition is:

NEW.
TANK.
SYNDROME.

Those are three words that hopefully you only use in conversation when discussing how you avoided it. New Tank Syndrome is caused by a buildup of toxins and an insufficient microbiome to break them down. Sounds complicated, but it’s not.

What it all comes down to is that when fish need to go to the bathroom, well.. they are living in it. Just like you wouldn’t want to go take a dip in a sewage pond on a hot day, fish aren’t exactly thrilled about living in their own p**p. This is where the microbiome and the nitrogen cycle come into play. It’s just a fancy way of saying good bacteria that like to eat fish p**p and other waste and turn it into something that isn’t so toxic. You have good bacteria in your gut that helps you breakdown the food you eat, and your aquarium needs bacteria to help break down what the fish.. well, you know. The problem is that when you set up a new tank, you don’t have these bacteria yet, or at least not enough of them. So when you add fish, the waste can’t be broken down, toxins build up, and before you know it poor Mr. Bubblesworth and friends are taking a one-way trip from the fish bowl to the toilet bowl and possibly going to the fish store looking for one that looks exactly the same (I still miss you, Mr. Bubblesworth-- you were a brave fish).

So, what can you do to prevent this? The easiest way is a process called cycling, which establishes the nitrogen cycle is explained below: [queue the Circle of Life music]

Plant material dies and fish eat food and produce waste->

This produces ammonia (NH3/NH4), extremely toxic to fish->

Good bacteria consume ammonia ->

This produces nitrites (NO2), still quite toxic to fish ->

Good bacteria consume nitrites->

This produces nitrates (NO3), mildly toxic to fish ->

Plants consume nitrates to grow, the rest is removed by regular partial water changes, completing the cycle.

A breakdown in this process at any point, especially the first two, can result in New Tank Syndrome. Since your new aquarium doesn’t have a well-established microbiome of these beneficial bacteria, you need to jump start it. In saltwater aquariums, this generally involves live rock and live sand, which is porous rock containing these types of bacteria (and potentially unwanted hitchhikers). In freshwater, this can be done by obtaining a piece of sponge from the filter of an established aquarium, or the addition of products that contain these bacteria. Keep in mind that using a piece of sponge from another aquarium could introduce unwanted pests or potentially harmful bacteria, so we recommend the use of products manufactured specifically for this purpose instead. Now you need to make a decision—add a fish now, or wait until you established the nitrogen cycle. We recommend you wait as it will be better for the fish and less likely to have a negative outcome. Since there are no fish in this method, there is nothing to produce ammonia, so it must be added. DO NOT USE HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA. Household ammonia can contain additives, such as surfactants and fragrances, that will have devastating consequences. ONLY use ammonia that is specifically labeled for use in aquarium cycling, such as Dr. Tim’s Aquatics or Fritz’s Fishless Fuel, and add it according to the manufacturer’s directions. Then you wait. Yep.. give it time—usually a couple of weeks for freshwater. During this time, be sure to follow the manufacturers directions, which will generally involve testing. You can test the water yourself using one of many available test kits, or you can give us a call so you don’t have to deal with the hassle. As things progress through the nitrogen cycle, you will see things occur in this order after you add ammonia and bacteria:

Ammonia levels drop, nitrite levels increase. ->

Nitrite levels begin to decrease, nitrate levels begin to rise. ->

No ammonia or nitrites detected, only nitrates.

You’re done! Now it is time to find a lovely fish who will enjoy the wonderful home you carefully prepared for it. But don’t add too many! It is best to add one at a time, monitor the nitrogen cycle, and wait until your tank has adjusted to the most recent inhabitant before adding another.

Have questions, don’t want to deal with the hassle, or unsure if you want to tackle it? No problem! Give us a call and we happily answer your questions, provide you advice, or even do it for you with expert service at a price you can afford.

01/17/2022

Things looking cloudy? Maybe a tad green? It's probably your water chemistry. Or maybe you got a wee bit too festive one St. Patrick's Day, but we're going with water chemistry.

A good cleaning is necessary, but that won't tackle the root of the issue. More than likely, you have excess nutrients in your water. This can be caused by over feeding, excessive fish waste, an unbalanced microbiome, as well as other factors. Testing your water chemistry is key to identifying and understanding the problem, as well as what you can do to correct it. This may require the use of water conditioners/treatments, water changes, changing of filters, adding biological filter media, etc. But there are easier (and less messy) things you can do as well. In freshwater tanks, simply adding live aquarium plants can greatly reduce excess nutrients that the algae would otherwise feed off of, while also contributing to the aesthetics of the tank itself.

If your tank looks like the one below, just give us a call and we will be happy to not only clean it, but figure out the cause, help you get it back on track, and keep it that way so you, your family/friends, and the fishies can enjoy its beauty-- all at an affordable price.

(Photo Credit: TheAquariumGuide.com)

01/17/2022

What goes bump in the night? Well, if your fish go missing from your saltwater aquarium, it could be a Bobbit Worm: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eunice_aphroditois

These toxin-injecting snapping worms of destruction like to hitchhike on live rock and can grow up to almost 10 feet in length. But don't worry, they usually don't get that long-- partially because they break themselves apart into sections that then grow into fully-formed copies of the original!

You may remember them from popular films such as Star Wars: Return of the Jedi, Tremors, Dune, and more. Most recently featured as a cameo appearance in The Mandalorian.

Unlike Boba Fett, and more like our friend Mando, we know how to properly deal with these creatures. If you suspect you may have one lurking in your tank, give us a call!

01/16/2022

01/16/2022

The Mantis Shrimp: Our beautiful and misunderstood psychopathic friend.

A comic about a glorious undersea creature.

01/13/2022