Happy Life Dogs

Happy Life Dogs If you want the perfect companion dog, I am a dog behaviorist who can help you achieve that result. Dog Training
(4)

08/26/2024

IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE WHO IS GETTING/ADOPTING A DOG
Please remind them to walk the new dog around their neighborhood for 45 minutes to an hour, then confine them to one or two rooms in the house for at least two weeks. Ask them to keep visitors to a minimum during this time, especially if the new dog is under six months of age.
I'm sorry I haven't posted for a while but I've been busy with recently adopted dogs that have NOT had this introduction to their new family and have reacted poorly. I have faith in all of you that you can help me achieve more universal happiness for all dogs. Hope your summer has been AWESOME!

06/29/2024

FIREWORKS ON THE 4TH OF JULY
Just some quick tips to help your friend(s) on the 4th of July.

Be sure to lock doors and secure windows so there aren’t any escape routes, lower blinds to block the flashing lights and turn on some chill music or loud A/C for calming white noise. Give them plenty of exercise earlier in the day — firework displays ramp up after dark, not to mention the crowds that come out to watch them. It will also be easier for them (again, and you) to relax when you leave them if they’re good and tired. If your dog is happy in a crate, that is a great option. Covering it with a blanket can make it extra cozy. Keep your dog in the most quiet and comfortable place possible…a room without windows is usually better than one with windows.
Make the grill a place for humans only.
With 300 million scent receptors (compared to our six million), that barbecue chicken smells even more mouthwatering to your dog. But chicken bones, corn cobs and other leftovers can cause obstructions in their gut, often requiring surgical removal. Other foods and drinks like chocolate, grapes, avocado and alcohol can be toxic to dogs. Save the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center number just in case.

Keep an eye out for other toxins.
Simply inhaling lighter fluid fumes can cause aspiration pneumonia, but seemingly less noxious products can make your pet just as ill — especially if your dog is a licker. Ingesting sunscreen can cause vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy; bug spray containing DEET can lead to neurological issues; and citronella oil from candles can depress the central nervous system, resulting in decreased heart rate, coma, or death. Finally, fireworks can not only severely burn an animal, but many also contain toxic ingredients like arsenic and other heavy metals.

ALL THAT NOISE is often an unwanted part of the festivities and your pet can become fearful or unsure. The best way to deal with this is NOT to comfort a scared dog. The mind you pet is the mind you get. Soothing a fearful dog gives them permission to be scared and says you approve of the behavior. Better to put on some background noise that is familiar and fairly loud - TV, fan, A/C or music and then behave as if everything is normal. If a loud "boom" causes your friend distress, distract with a small treat or toy. Remain calm and do not let your stress become theirs. The more YOU are distressed for them, the more stressed they will become. You KNOW everything is OK - and you can convince them this is true if you relax. If you're easily startled or scared, try earplugs. You can also try sitting on a chair or couch with your dog sitting beside you. Put your arm around your dog with your palm flat on the dog's chest and squeeze slowly and rather tightly (not to cause discomfort) You are mimicking a product called a "thundershirt" which also works well for some dogs.

We can all do what's best for our pets. They rely on us.

06/22/2024
06/22/2024

WHAT ARE THE 5 PERSONALITY TYPES IN DOGS?

I found this study very interesting – I hope you do too.

The study, published in Scientific Reports, took a new approach to predicting and categorizing dog personalities, using an artificial intelligence (AI) algorithm to search through 70,000 behavioral records of dogs to find common threads running through the breeds. The researchers found that all dogs could be classified into five groups: excitable/hyper-attached, anxious/fearful, aloof/predatory, reactive/assertive, or calm/agreeable. To discover their personality traits, dogs in the database were scored on behaviors, such as how they responded when unfamiliar people visited their home or if they were jealous when their parent gave affection to another animal.
PERSONALITY TYPE: excitable/hyper-attached
This personality type is characterized by relatively high levels of excitability, attachment/attention-seeking behavior, separation-related anxiety and reduced fear compared with the other personality types.
You’ll be able to spot an excitable/hyper-attached dog because they’re always busy and may have a little FOMO. They get excited easily, take a long time to calm down and are the life and soul of the party! They may be impulsive, thinking little about consequences before they act. They need to be with and around you and probably follow you on every toilet visit, in case they miss something exciting!
Excitable dogs need humans who can cope with their extra energy and neediness and recognize that their dog won’t be happy being alone for extended periods. Long walks or vigorous games such as fly-ball or agility courses help slow down the freight train mode.
PERSONALITY TYPE: anxious/fearful
Anxious/fearful dogs displayed relatively high fear of social (such as unfamiliar people and other dogs) and non-social events (new or unexpected situations). The anxious/fearful dog is cautious in disposition, thinking hard before doing things.
Some people believe they could be anxious because of past trauma. But their personality type might go some way to explain why some dogs can be attacked by other dogs and still be dog-friendly, or treated terribly by humans but still happy and confident around them; while other dogs can have the smallest of things happen, but take it really deeply and are highly traumatized by the event.
Anxious/fearful dogs are more likely to whine, jump up, or try to intervene when their parent strokes another animal and they need patient parents willing to put in time to help them deal with fearful situations. Strong leadership can remove the fear factor by giving your dog a sense of “place” in the pack.
PERSONALITY TYPE: aloof/predatory
Aloof/predatory dogs have lower levels of attachment/attention-seeking and higher levels of predatory behavior and aggression towards other dogs.
These dogs are notoriously hard to train. They will look at you when you call them, then trot off to carry on their own business. They’re happy in their own space and fiercely independent. They will happily go off hunting without a backwards glance and may even kill wildlife. They might give the illusion of being a bit dim but I assure you, they’re not.
Parents of aloof/predatory pups must be consistent and find a way to motivate and reward a dog whose greatest joy is sniffing or chasing wildlife.
PERSONALITY TYPE: reactive/assertive
Dogs that are reactive/assertive have heightened aggressive behavior across multiple domains, including aggression towards household members. Reactive dogs tend to become aggressive when scolded or shouted at by their parents, and fearful of sudden loud noises, such as a vacuum cleaner being switched on or an object being dropped.
These dogs are on the offensive and know what they like and do not like. Their traits may have been bred into working dogs over generations – if you’re a sheepherding breed, you need to be aware of predators and not be scared of seeing them off when protecting your livestock.
With a reactive dog, work to identify the specific triggers that set your dog off. A trigger acts as a stimulus to make your dog react dramatically. After identifying triggers, try to desensitize your dog with a specific training plan, which should be based on patience and proper corrections.
PERSONALITY TYPE: calm/agreeable
According to the research, calmer dogs were less likely to chase birds or cats than their counterparts and were quicker to learn new tricks or tasks. They’re easy to live with, go with the flow and make great pets. They may not set the world on fire with their working ability, but they are worth their weight in gold.
Due to their peaceful nature, dog trainers rarely meet these dogs in their practice. Calm dogs tend to be ideal family dogs because they’re great around young children. Or, if you’re getting older and want a dog who can match your pace, a calm canine could be precisely what you’re looking for.

How can this research be applied in the future?
Scientists are still working on analyzing the potential relationship between human personality traits and these dog personality types. Personality type and behaviors are closely intertwined, so a key future outcome is understanding effective training techniques for a dog’s personality type. In the future, rescue organizations and shelters could use a tool to understand both a dog’s personality and how good a fit it is for the prospective owner.”

05/28/2024

TOYS – ENJOY, DON’T DESTROY
Many people spend a fortune on toys because their dogs destroy them immediately, and others have stopped giving their dogs toys because “it’s a waste — they chew them up in less than five minutes!” You can avoid being in either category by teaching your dog to enjoy — rather than destroy — their toys.

1. Teach them how to play with the toy
Engage your dog in play with the toy. Play fetch, tug, or hide-and-seek with the toy or drag it along the floor for your dog to pounce on. If your dog has fun playing a game with you that involves the toy, they will understand the purpose of the toy. While your dog is still learning the toy is part of a game, put it away when you are done playing. Once they know what the toy is for, they will want to play the game rather than chew and shred the toy. Until they know better, don’t let them make a mistake and destroy it. “Squeaker” toys imitate dying animals and tend to increase the prey drive in your dog. Use sparingly, if at all.

2. Take toys away strategically
Don’t set a dog up to fail by leaving them with an errant toy to ruin by chewing it up. Offer the dog the toy, but if they start to shred it, take it away, whether they are picking at it with their teeth or chomping on it with serious biting. Give it right back so they can try again to treat it gently. If they are careful with the toy, let them keep it and offer attention, praise, or play in response to their behavior. Continue to supervise, watching constantly so if they go into destroyer mode, you can immediately take it away. You are teaching your dog that destructive chewing of the toy makes it disappear. If your dog tries three times to destroy the toy, it’s gone for the rest of the day. Some dogs learn to be gentle in just three repetitions but others require multiple days of this to stop chewing on toys meant for play.

3. Offer chew toys to satisfy that need
Dogs need to chew — some more than others. They should be allowed to engage in this natural activity, but only with appropriate items. Your veterinarian has the final word on which toys are safe for your particular dog, but Chewstix and Nylabones are usually excellent choices, while rawhide is hazardous and can be fatal. Some dogs do great with real bones, cow hooves, antlers, and pig ears, but others risk injury from sharp pieces or splinters. NEVER give cooked bones of any kind to your dog.

4. Make tired time fleece time
Many dogs find comfort in soft, cuddly, fleece toys. However, they are oh so easy to chew to pieces, which is why most dogs must be taught to snuggle with fleece toys instead of eating them. When your dog is especially tired from a long play session or an extended hike, offer them a fleece toy, as they are most likely to treat it like a teddy bear in this state. If they start to chew on it, take it away, but let them keep it as long as they act tenderly toward it.

5. Offer multiple toys
Giving a dog several identical toys can decrease destructive chewing. Give them one toy, and as soon as they become interested in it, offer them a second one, and when they are into that one, toss a third one their way, and maybe even a fourth. This method prevents many dogs from shredding the toys, perhaps by lowering the value of the toys in their eyes.

6. Keep the number of available toys to a minimum.
Don’t leave an open toy box or a dozen toys on the floor. Two toys per dog is plenty. You can swap out toys – letting the same two toys be out and about for 7-10 days, then removing those toys and substituting two new ones. After another 7-10 days, replace those toys with the original two toys and so on until they are loved to death – then buy new ones and repeat the process.

Who could disappoint this face? Let's all remember our dogs are our dependents and care for them accordingly. Keep your ...
04/19/2024

Who could disappoint this face? Let's all remember our dogs are our dependents and care for them accordingly. Keep your puppy safe in the early days and prevent overwhelming contact. Share your new addition on social media - not in person. Your puppy should be 3-4 months old before heavy social exposure. Meanwhile, you get all this cuteness for yourself (and immediate family). If you want to raise the perfect companion and need a little help, feel free to contact me. 206-54-3443

04/18/2024

WALKING YOUR DOG

When a trainer is trying to diagnose the reason for a dog’s bad behavior, it often boils down to one question: “How often do you walk your dog?” Exercise can make all the difference in a dog’s mental state and behavior. Their needs are not so different from the mental and physical health needs of humans in that way Why is dog walking so important? And how often should you walk your dog?

How Often You Should Walk Your Dog
First, let’s be clear: There’s a difference between letting your dog out to p*e and going for a walk. When it comes to p*e breaks, adult dogs need to be let out for bathroom breaks a minimum of three times a day. Puppies need even more than that, especially when they’re not yet housebroken. Beyond that, how much time your dog needs to burn off energy will depend on their age and breed.

Factors to Consider
It can feel tricky to figure out exactly how much to walk a dog, since there are no hard-and-fast rules. You’ll have to consider a few different factors, including age and breed. Younger dogs have more energy than older dogs, obviously, and will need more time to walk or run around. Older dogs, especially ones dealing with issues like arthritis, may need shorter walks to avoid causing additional pain. Working dogs — think Retrievers and Terriers — need at least 30 minutes of significant exercise In general; larger dogs are recommended to get more exercise than smaller dogs.
How often you walk your dog will also depend on whether you have a yard. If a dog has free run of the yard, they’re not going to need as formal an exercise routine as a pet whose idea of open space is the hallway from the bedroom to the front door. Still, people tend to use a yard as an excuse to under-exercise their dogs — especially large ones.
On top of age and breed, there’s another factor that can affect the length and quality of your dog’s walk: heat. Walks in the summer are tricky. While you can bundle a dog up in the winter, there’s less you can do to manage the temperature on a warm day. So if it’s hot and sunny (temps above 80 degrees Farhrenheit), don’t keep your dog out for too long.” During the summer, early morning or evening walks are your safest options to keep your pet from burning their paw pads or overheating.
Heat exhaustion is very real. Some breeds are more prone to overheating, like Malamutes or Huskies, because they’re bred for colder weather. Older dogs and sick pets can struggle in the heat, too, as can brachycephalic breeds, such as Pugs, Bulldogs and Boxers.
Always remember to bring drinking water for your pet and don’t go hiking midday — if you do, make sure you’re seeking out trails that have plenty of shade so your dog has a way to stay cool. To get greater benefits from the walk, your dog can carry the water in a doggy backpack.

How long should a dog walk be?
An hour-long walk every day is generally a good recommendation — preferably all in one session. A long walk benefits a dog’s physical body as well as their mental health. The problem with a 15-minute walk is that you’re not going anywhere new. If you can’t time block your calendar for an hour-long walk a day, consider hiring a dog walker to ensure your dog gets the exercise they need — even if you’re working from home.

What are the benefits of dog walking?
Studies find that most dogs aren’t getting the recommended amount of exercise, which is a big problem. Walking a dog is a great source of exercise and can have enormous impacts on a dog’s quality of life — and their pet parent’s. Below are a few of the benefits of walking a dog.

Physical Health
Dog walking is great for the physical health of both you and your pup. Regular walking is associated with a lower risk of cardiovascular disease in humans, and lack of exercise is associated with obesity in dogs, which can lead to a handful of health concerns.

Mental Health
Dogs thrive on variety just like we do, so if they’re stuck in the same loop, they’ll eventually find it uninspiring. And dogs that aren’t getting enough exercise become something worse than couch potatoes.
If you’re not walking your dog enough or providing them with enough playtime, they can become anxious or destructive. They might tear up the house or start licking their paws obsessively. That energy has to go somewhere, and sometimes it’s going to go into chewing all the cushions on the sofa.

Socialization
Socialization is incredibly important for dogs — especially puppies — and dog walking is a great opportunity to introduce your pup to the dogs and people of the world. For puppies, going for walks can help them learn how to interact with other dogs and people and read dog body language, plus prevent them from developing phobias.
Walking a dog is a great opportunity for humans to socialize, too; many people see a dog as a conversational “icebreaker” when meeting people in public.

Bonding
Walking with your dog gives the two of you plenty of quality time together and this helps you strengthen your bond. When the time you spend together is fun, it sends a message to your pup that they can trust you.

Physical Activity Should Be Fun
That said, not all dogs like walking. You may prefer a bike or a treadmill. Find a form of activity that excites your dog, like playing fetch or swimming. Your dog may even master an agility course. Researching what your dog’s breed traditionally enjoys can help, too.
Or maybe it’s you who doesn’t like walks because your dog pulls on their leash or is aggressive toward other animals. In that case, try training techniques and walking gear to help your dog heel. For further suggestions, please call me at 206-546-3443.

03/21/2024

DOG PLAY FIGHTING - HOW TO TELL IF IT'S PLAY OR REAL
Some people think that rough play is practice for real fighting (or even killing). If this were the case, observed dogs do a great deal of practicing for fights that never occurred. Scientists originally hypothesized that dogs play fight in order to enhance their combat skills, but recent research doesn’t support this theory.
Although we still do not completely understand why animals engage in social play, research suggests that animals play to help form social bonds, enhance cognitive development, exercise, and/or practice coping skills for life’s unexpected situations. All of these benefits, if real, are important to our dogs.
Lately, there has been a lot of attention paid to the question: What is “safe” dog play? Although we recommend carefully monitoring play between dogs who are significantly different in size or age, or who do not know each other well, studies have shown that dogs are very good at figuring out which dogs they want to play with and how to play well with their friends. Presumably, dogs are better than humans at speaking and understanding dog language. Perhaps it is time to humble ourselves and listen to them.
Important Things to Know About Dog Play Fighting
1. When we talk about play fighting, we mean play between two dogs rather than play between many dogs. Although multi-dog play can be fine, sometimes it involves ganging up and then it’s time to intervene. Also: We are referring to play fighting that doesn’t involve toys, which can become the object of guarding and aggression.
2. We recommend caution with young, inexperienced puppies. If traumatized by other dogs early on (for example, in a poorly run puppy class or day care), a puppy may grow into a dog who is fearful, defensive, or even aggressive with other dogs.
3. Rough dog play fighting typically works best between two dogs who are friends. Dogs who play together a lot often develop play rituals, such as mutual snarling, that may not be appropriate between dogs who don’t know each other well. Finally, work with your dog until they reliably come when you call them for a brief play pause.

What is dog play fighting?
In the field of animal behavior, researchers often refer to social play as “dog play fighting” because it includes many of the behaviors seen during real fights and might look rougher than it really is. For example, during play, one dog might chase and tackle another, or use a neck bite to force a partner to the ground. Dogs will also hip check or slam, mount, rear up, bite, stand over, sit on, bark, snarl, growl, bare their teeth and do chin-overs (i.e., place the underside of their chin over the neck of their partner).
However, despite the overlap in behaviors, some clear differences exist between dog play fighting and real fighting. When dogs are playing, they inhibit the force of their bites and sometimes voluntarily give their partner a competitive advantage (self-handicap) by, for example, rolling on their backs or letting themselves be caught during a chase — behaviors that would never happen during real fighting.
In addition to inhibited bites and self handicapping, dogs clearly demarcate play by employing signals, such as play bows (i.e., putting the front half of the body on the ground while keeping the rear half up in the air) and exaggerated bouncy movements.
Play signals are communication about communication. Humans employ this type of communication a lot. For example, when teasing a friend, we may smile or use a certain tone of voice to indicate that we’re just kidding. Similarly, dogs play bow to invite play and to convey playful intentions during play.
Dogs are most likely to play bow just before or immediately after performing an especially assertive behavior, such as a bite accompanied by a head shake. This pattern suggests that playing dogs recognize moments when their behavior can be misinterpreted as serious aggression and compensate by reminding their partner, “I’m still playing.” Thus social beings can step through a looking glass into a world that operates by different rules. This allows humans and dogs to pretend — that is, to perform actions that appear to be one thing but actually mean something completely different. To people unfamiliar with the notion that some nonhuman animals have this ability, play that includes archetypal aggressive behaviors, like snarling and growling, can be quite confusing. Close attention to the context, however, can help us differentiate between play aggression and real aggression.
Even though play fighting is very different from real fighting, people often feel the need to intervene. Sometimes it is obvious at the beginning of a bout that two dogs are playing, but once the dogs start growling or their arousal intensifies, observers may no longer be sure that the dogs are still playing. After all, humans instinctively avoid a dog that is snarling or baring his teeth and it’s natural to think that our dogs should do the same. When people interrupt really rowdy play, they assume that they are “playing it safe,” that is, doing no harm. But what if this assumption is mistaken?
Research shows that for many dogs, play fighting is the primary method used to negotiate new relationships and develop lasting friendships. Although play is fun, it also offers serious opportunities to communicate with another dog. In this sense, play is a kind of language. Thus, when we regularly break up what we consider “inappropriate” play, are we doing our dogs a service, or confusing them by constantly butting into their private conversations? Most importantly, how can we tell the difference?
HOW TO TELL IF A DOG IS PLAYING OR FIGHTING
First, we need to determine whether both dogs are enjoying themselves and want to continue playing. Look at their postures and facial expressions. The dog’s movements may be light, bouncy and exaggerated and they may have relaxed, open mouths. Watch for play signals, which can often be quite subtle — a quick dip or bounce rather than a full-blown play bow.
If you’re not certain that a dog really wants to be playing, try briefly holding that dog back. If they press their body into yours and avoid looking at the other dog, they’re showing relief at the interruption and you should help them avoid the other dog. If they pull against your grip in an attempt to interact with the other dog, release them. If they run toward the other dog or send a play signal in their direction, then they’re saying that they want to keep playing.
An interaction like the one just described is straightforward and easy to read. However, what about instances that may not be so clear-cut? Please discard any preconceived notions about what dog play should and should not look like — at least for the time being. For example, are traditional “no-no’s” like neck biting, rearing up, body-slamming and repeated pinning by one dog ever okay when two dogs are playing? Yes.
What is “safe” dog play? Appropriate dog play fighting all depends on the individual dogs and the kind of relationship they have with one another.

Unorthodox Dog Play: When Some Dogs Like It Rough
Consider an example of a close canine friendship founded on unorthodox play. When Sarge, a one-year-old German Shepherd, first met Sam, a four-month-old Labradoodle, he was very rough with Sam. He would pin Sam with a neck bite every few seconds. No sooner would Sam stand up than Sarge would neck bite him and flip him on his back again.
At first, we thought that Sarge might be too rough for Sam, so we would intervene by holding one or both of them back. However, each time, Sam would try his hardest to get to Sarge, despite the inevitable pinning. As Sam grew larger, eventually matching Sarge in weight, Sarge added body slams and mounting to their play. With the exception of frequent rear-ups (in which they adopted identical roles, facing one another and boxing with their front paws), Sage usually maintained the more assertive role (neck biting, pinning, slamming and so forth). Yet, because Sam was always an enthusiastic partner, we let them continue to play together.
To this day, their play remains asymmetrical; Sarge repeatedly brings down Sam with neck bites and continues to bite Sam’s neck once he is down. Sam wriggles on the ground and flails at Sarge with his legs while Sarge, growling loudly, keeps biting Sam’s neck. More than once, bystanders have thought the dogs were fighting for real, but Sarge’s neck bites never harm Sam and Sam never stops smiling.
With Sarge and Sam, allowing play to continue was the right decision. Their early play interactions grew into a lifelong friendship. Even today, the two middle-aged boys will sometimes play together for five hours at a stretch, stopping only occasionally for brief rests. When they are finally done, they often lie together, completely relaxed with their bodies touching. Their faces are loose and smiling and they seem almost drunk in an endorphin-induced haze.
This relationship shows that play does not necessarily have to be fair or balanced in order for two dogs to want to play with one another. Years ago, scientists proposed a 50/50 rule: for two individuals to engage in play, they must take turns being in the more assertive role. Scientists thought that if one dog was too rough or forceful (e.g., pinning their partner much more often than they were being pinned), the other dog would not want to play. Until further research, this proposition was never empirically tested.
During study of pairwise play between adult dogs, between adult dogs and adolescents and between puppy littermates, the findings showed that the 50/50 rule simply did not apply. Dogs do not need to take turns being assertive in order for play to take place. However, this doesn’t mean that dogs never role-reverse during play, because they often do (e.g., Sarge is in the top-dog position most of the time, but sometimes Sam gets to be top dog too). It just means that role reversals usually aren’t equally balanced.
Growling During Dog Play
A female German Shepherd and a male Golden Retriever mix, were best friends for many years. When they played, they snarled a lot, lips curled and teeth exposed. The snarls looked fierce, but they often preceded silly behaviors, like flopping on the ground. Also, when something in the environment suddenly interrupted their play, the dogs’ faces would instantly shift into neutral, alert expressions while they focused on whatever had stolen their attention.
Then, as though on cue, both would put their scary faces back on, almost as if they were Halloween masks, and turn toward one another. Their expressions were so exaggerated and obviously fake that they always made us laugh. Some dogs can even be trained to show a snarl on command in a context that is otherwise perfectly friendly. These observations show that dogs can exhibit nasty faces voluntarily, just as we do when we are only pretending to be mean.
Growling, like snarling, is a seemingly aggressive behavior that means something different during play than it does in other contexts. Videotaped play between a female Shepherd and a male mixed-breed, shows that, following brief pauses in play, she often stared at him and growled fiercely. Whenever she did this, he leaped toward her and the chase was on. He moved toward rather than away from her because he knew her growl was not real.
Other researchers, who recorded growls from dogs in three different contexts, including play. Play growls have different acoustical properties than growls given as threats and when researchers played the growls back, dogs distinguished between play growls and growls given in conflicting contexts. If dogs can distinguish between types of growls in the absence of contextual cues (such as another playing dog), surely they know when a play partner’s growl is just pretend.
Playing Peacefully
Surprisingly, in some of the relationships studied, dogs initiated play and preferred to play with others who were consistently assertive with them. For example, in a litter of mixed breed puppies, one female, initiated play with a female littermate more than twice as often as she initiated play with any of her other littermates (including another sister), even though her chosen partner adopted the assertive role during play 100 percent of the time.
Sometimes people interrupt these interactions because they fear that rough play will escalate into an all-out dogfight. However, in hundreds of hours of observations of play fighting between two dogs with established relationships, we have never witnessed a single escalation to real fighting. In some dog rescue facilities, over 100 dogs exist in peaceful harmony.
Hope this helps, but if you have questions, please call Happy Life Dogs at 206-546-3443

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