LaBarre Training Center

12/02/2025

Thank you, Formula 707 for your sponsorship

I am truly grateful for this opportunity to work with such a talented team and incredibly grateful for this partnership and look forward to continuing to make a positive impact together.

If you have questions or already use their products, please reach out I'd love to chat.

12/02/2025

For my toe out people.

12/02/2025

I truly appreciate everyone who gets their dates out early !

Start your 2026 planning now !

2026 Calendar of Events! Website soon to be updated.

11/26/2025

Although we want to push ourselves to be better as riders and as trainers, don’t forget that riding horses should be fun. Obviously in any sport that is taken seriously by its participants there are going to be moments of frustration, trying us in many ways, that we have to get through to be as good as we want to be.

How to deal with frustration
In order to prevent frustration, you have to offer clarity.
What to do if your horse is already frustrated?

Start with congratulating yourself for noticing!
Not many horse owners/trainers recognize it in themselves and their horse.

Stop and breathe so that you can come up with a plan to handle the frustration.
Change what you’re doing that is causing frustration (this is crucial) and aim to prevent frustration. If that means you have to give your horse a break or ask something you know he can and will do, ask that.
This will interrupt the feelings of frustration.

Improve your timing (watch yourself on video)

Lower your training criteria until your horse understands what he has to do.

Become more predictable for your horse and make a plan before you start training.

Ask for help if you can’t solve it on your own.
A tiny bit of frustration can help facilitate clear, concise and fair solutions, but too much and too often will put a strain on your relationship with your horse.

Regardless of your discipline, don’t lose sight of why we work this hard and why we love this sport.

It’s all about the horses.

THE ULTIMATE CULPRIT---The state of being that leads to destroying more horse training sessions than everything else combined?

A simple word that describes an intricate and complex web of emotions----“FRUSTRATION.”
Here’s a dictionary definition---"the feeling of being annoyed or less confident because you cannot achieve what you want, or something that makes you feel like this:”

Riding well is hard. Training a horse well is hard. Put the two together and it’s easy to create that perfect storm of physical, mental and emotional feelings of “being annoyed or less confident because you cannot achieve what you want.”

And we all know where that leads. Which also means that the horse is MORE nervous for the next encounter, so it becomes a huge snowball of negativity.

Maybe START every training session by being aware of the destructive power of frustration? I do not pretend to have any magic answer, but if anyone here has constructive advice, I know we’d love to hear it.

11/25/2025

Leg-Yielding

Leg-yielding should be included in the training, it is the best means of making a horse supple, loose and unconstrained for the benefit of the freedom, elasticity and regularity of his gaits and the harmony, lightness, and ease of his movements.
Leg-yielding can be performed “on the diagonal” in which case the horse should be as close as possible to parallel to the long sides of the arena, although the forehand should be slightly in advance of the quarters. It can also be performed along the wall, in which case the horse should be at an angle of about 35 degrees to the direction in which the horse is moving.

In leg-yielding, the horse moves forward and sideways on two tracks away from the riders inside leg. Leg-yielding is performed in walk and trot. It is generally considered the easiest of the lateral movements and should be taught before shoulder-in, haunches-in and half-pass. However, some will argue that leg-yielding should be called a two track movement, not a lateral movement, as it does not require bend.


Leg-yielding is an exercise that loosens and supples the horse as he responds to the sideways-driving aids of the rider.
The crossing of the legs, especially the slightly increased lowering of the inside hip, facilitates the loosening effect.
Leg-yielding is particularly useful in the warm-up phase but can also be helpful at moments of correction throughout the work when the horse’s response to the sideways driving aids is not as desired (haunches falling out).
Leg-yielding is also a rudimentary tool to straighten the horse before he has learned shoulder-in and is ready for collected work.

For the rider, leg-yielding is of great benefit.
For many beginners, this is really the first time they become fully aware of the fact that they have two reins and two legs and how to use them independently from each other. They realize, for instance, that a horse slowing down cannot be corrected with the sideways-driving leg. Most important, it makes riders aware of the cooperative effect of the aids and how they should harmonize together.

Aids – in General
The horse is basically kept straight; however, the inside rein is shortened and flexes the horse slightly away from the direction of movement and just enough that the rider can see the top of the inside eye and nostril. (This side is called the inside, irrespective of whether the horse is facing the rail or into the arena.) The outside rein has to keep the neck straight at the shoulder.
The rider’s weight is shifted more onto the inside seat bone.
The inside leg should be moved a little behind the girth to cause the horse to step sideways and cross over. The outside leg has to be behind the girth as well to prevent the angle from becoming too great.
Simplified, the inside aids create and the outside aids receive.

Both reins have to harmonize in such a way that the inside one keeps the horse sufficiently flexed and supple in the lower jaw and poll to avoid resistance and stiffening in the neck; the outside rein has to prevent the horse from over bending the neck and falling through the outside shoulder.
This can become more of an issue in the trot, where the added quality of impulsion lacking in the walk requires more skill from the rider to keep the horse straight. Moreover, the horse must be encouraged toward a forward and downward tendency, which is contained by the outside rein.

This is of the greatest importance when leg-yielding is done in the walk, particularly with novice riders, so that the horse’s top line can open up, thus allowing the desired relaxing and suppling.
When the weight is shifted onto the inside seat bone, the rider’s torso must remain perpendicular behind the horse’s withers.
Care must be taken not to collapse the inside hip or to tilt the torso to the inside.
Both these faults would weaken the riders outside leg and make it largely ineffective.
Sometimes it may be helpful to bring the inside shoulder a little in the direction of the horses inside hip.
This puts additional pressure on the inside seat bone and supports the intent of the outside leg. The inside leg should be brought a little behind the girth with adequate pressure to make the horse step sideways and to cross over.
The aid should be given just as the inside hind leg is about to leave the ground.

With green horses, it may be necessary to put the inside leg somewhat more behind the girth to convey a clear message to the horse.

Head to the Wall
Considered by some to be the easiest and most plausible format to start with a green horse or a beginner rider. The rail provides an obvious guideline for the angle.
Generally, this should be about 35 degrees sufficient to get maximum benefit from the exercise; however, initially, it may be quite in order to ask for only 20 degrees. This will not induce much
crossing of the legs but will allow the student to learn the application of the aids without running into any major problems caused by over using any single aid.
The rail also helps the student to be effective with the outside rein without becoming too restrictive, for the rail helps in keeping the horse on the desired track.

On a Circle
This is probably the most effective leg-yielding format.
The additional difficulty of staying consistently on a curved line induces a more pronounced crossing over of the inside hind leg and consequently somewhat more lowering of the inside hip. When attempting leg-yielding in this format, it very quickly becomes obvious whether the rider has acquired good coordination of all the aids.
Horses which are inordinately stiff in the back and neck require specialized work for loosening up the tight musculature. They can benefit from leg-yielding on a circle; however, with this work there is significant deviation from the normal concept of leg-yielding.
For example, the horse’s neck should be bent quite a bit to the inside as much as necessary to induce longitudinal stretching just in front of the withers, resulting in complete relaxation of the
muscles along the underside of the neck. In addition, it is useful to activate the
inside hind leg with the whip, causing accentuation of the flexion of the joints.
Frequent half-halts should be used to prevent the horse from rushing away from the aids and to gradually get him accustomed to this work so that he will eventually relax and swing through his back.
Patience and feel are required, and breaks are important for the muscles so as not to fatigue and overstress the horse.

There’s no “wow” feeling to a correctly ridden leg-yield.
If your horse glides smoothly along the desired line while maintaining the alignment and the tempo, you’re doing it right.

If you find yourself drawing your inside leg back because he isn’t moving away from it, or you’re pulling on the inside rein to stop that falling-sideways feeling, you either need to reinforce the obedience to your inside leg or correct the alignment.
Let the geometry help you to assess the correctness of your riding and training.

11/25/2025

Catching up on the educational portion on a rainy day.

11/15/2025

My Maryland and south-central Pennsylvania friends.

11/12/2025

In horses

But even more in Life !

Take care of yourself.

I want to talk about something that doesn’t get enough attention...

The guilt of investing in YOU. Whether it be money, time, self care or something that brings you joy...

We are conditioned to always put others needs before our own.

What we need to realize is the COST of not taking care of ourselves far exceeds that of investing in us.

Everything from being irritable and tired or worse, getting run down and sick.

Lack of confidence and mental clarity...

The negative mental effects of not loving who you see in the mirror....

This list can go on and on.

Invest in YOU. Do what you need to do to feel happy and healthy. It is, hands down, the best decision you could ever make.

📸 Max & Maxwell: Equestrian Photography

11/11/2025

Technically explained, contact is the connection between the horse’s mouth and the rider’s hand. However, riding is much more than technicalities as we deal with another living entity.

Riding requires continuous communication with the horse, and for that to occur we have to find a common language with him. Contact is an essential piece of this language, and it goes without saying that respect and confidence are essential elements of good contact. Contact is also reciprocal between horse and rider: The rider can achieve good contact only when the horse feels comfortable and relaxed and moves in good natural balance.

To find correct rein contact and keep a horse framed and on the bit, establish a steady and light rein contact by keeping your hands soft and relaxed, driving the horse forward with your legs, and using the rein aids to guide, not pull.
Riders automatically think of their hands when they hear the word “contact.” But it’s important to be aware that the rider is always keeping contact with the horse through the whole body—not only through the hands, but also through arms, shoulders, hips and down to the heels. It’s also important to remember that suppleness in the rider’s joints is indispensable for good riding.
Hands are only one part of the whole picture.

Establishing contact
Start with a steady leg:
Always use your leg aids to drive the horse forward before using your hand aids.
Your legs create the forward impulsion, and your hands provide the steady connection and direction.

Good contact also requires that the rider’s hands are not always strictly fixed above the withers, but that, to a certain degree, they follow the horse’s natural head–neck movements, which allows the rider to be continuously connected with the horse’s mouth regardless of the posture or frame.

Contact has a lot to do with the feeling of the rider, but there is one simple fundamental rule that everyone should follow: Riding with too much tension in the reins, also referred to as “riding backwards,” is wrong.

The rein length must not prevent the horse from using his neck. However, the rider must take care that the reins are not too long because the connection then becomes imprecise, and the rider might be tempted to pull backward to feel the mouth. Long or loose reins do not automatically produce a soft connection. Good contact is steady, but, from the beginning, as soft and light as possible.

Set the rein length:
Find a rein length that allows for a steady, light contact without being so long that it's imprecise or so short that it prevents the horse from using its neck.

Maintain a soft feel:
Keep your hands soft and relaxed, allowing them to follow the horse's motion. The connection should feel like a "good dance partner," with both parties maintaining equal pressure and giving and taking.

Use pressure and release:
Apply steady pressure, and as soon as the horse responds by flexing at the jaw or reaching forward, release the pressure. The release is the reward, teaching the horse to seek it by softening.
*"Release, don't drop rein contact" means to release pressure by gradually giving ground with your hands instead of completely letting go, and instead of pulling back. A release should be a subtle, soft give of the rein that allows the horse to respond and then gives them space, while the rider maintains a steady, elastic connection. This is a way to communicate, not a lack of control, and should be combined with other aids like the seat and legs.

Frame starts from behind:
The roundness and frame must come from the horse's engine (hindquarters), not from pulling on the reins.

Use leg for impulsion and hand for carriage:
Use your legs to drive the horse forward and your outside rein for steady connection. Use your inside rein with a soft, supple feel to help the horse turn and round its frame.

Correct head position:
If the horse's head is too high, slightly widen your hands to encourage it to lower and drop its jaw to the bit. If the horse is braced, use your legs to keep them moving forward and your hands to apply steady, consistent pressure and then release as they soften.

Encourage suppleness:
Incorporate exercises like lateral flexion (gently bending the horse's head to the side) to supple the neck and promote good contact.

Find a steady rhythm:
A steady rhythm at the walk is crucial for teaching new things and establishing good contact. The horse must be mentally and physically engaged, walking diligently and reacting to the slightest indication from you.

Improving your own aids
Develop an independent seat:
Having a seat and body that is independent from your hands is essential for maintaining a consistent contact.

Use groundwork:
Working the horse from the ground can help separate the rider's body posture and rein pressure from the horse's understanding of the rein aids.

Practice and consistency:
Finding the correct contact and keeping a horse framed and on the bit takes practice. Be consistent with your aids, staying calm and steady, and remember that the horse learns by experiencing your aids repeatedly.

Sometimes, a horse may be inconsistent because it is uncomfortable with the bit. You may want to consult with a professional to ensure you are using the right type of bit for your horse. The correctly fitted tack must not be neglected because ill-fitting equipment can cause a lot of trouble. Regarding contact, the choice and correct fitting of the bit and noseband are of utter importance. If we really believe riding is a conversation with the horse, we will not proverbially “shut the horse up” with a cranked noseband. The combination of the right exercises, the sensitive rider’s hand and an attitude in which the rider absolutely considers the horse as a partner makes closing the horse’s mouth with the help of tools not only dispensable, but despicable. Only a relaxed mouth leads to good contact.

A horse who moves in the right frame—which is a result of the good contact, balance and diligence—is one who expresses calmness and harmony with his rider.

Try this;
https://www.horselistening.com/2015/01/23/try-this-exercise-to-improve-your-rein-contact/

11/05/2025

It's not too early to starting planning winter activities.

Send a message to learn more

11/04/2025

AGREE