Bear Country Retrievers and Gun Dogs

Bear Country Retrievers and Gun Dogs Breeding, Training, and Exhibiting Performance Retrievers for 30+ years.
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AKC Breeder of Merit for Labrador Retrievers and Flat Coated Retrievers
Retriever Training for AKC and HRC Hunt Tests
Retriever Tune Ups for Hunting Season
Group or Private Training Days at our 40 Acre Facility and 6 Acre Technical Ponds
Obedience Instruction for Home or Competition
Member of Middle TN Amateur Retriever Club and Music City HRC

Copied from my friend, Baron, from Team Wetland Retrievers in Alaska.  A reminder that you cannot skip steps in your tra...
08/02/2023

Copied from my friend, Baron, from Team Wetland Retrievers in Alaska. A reminder that you cannot skip steps in your training program.

This drill should be in everyone’s tool belt!
09/22/2022

This drill should be in everyone’s tool belt!

The Y-Drill is an effective tool you can use to sharpen up marking accuracy, and help your dog distinguish the difference between angle back, angle in and flat throws.

This is a great tutorial that Pat Burns gives about blowing a whistle.  It is something that a lot of my amateur handler...
06/30/2022

This is a great tutorial that Pat Burns gives about blowing a whistle. It is something that a lot of my amateur handlers have a problem with, and this clarifies how to blow properly using the diaphragm muscles.

Can your dog hear you when you blow the whistle? What if they are a great distance from you, breathing hard and lunging through water?Learning the proper me...

05/13/2022
03/03/2022

Well, it's almost Spring and that means we will all get in high gear to start or restart training! I know that most of you will agree that the dogs are more than ready to get going.

I leave for South Carolina for the month of March and have groups coming in each week. There are only limited openings as I am pretty full, but it doesn't hurt to ask me about where I could possibly put another handler or two.

I will be back in Tennessee after the first part of April and groups will resume here at the Retriever Retreat. Two of the four weeks in April are already full, but there are some openings mid month.

I will be in Tennessee all of May and June.

Carol Cassity will be doing an Advanced Drill and Set Up Workshop here the weekend of June 10-12 and while most of the Handler spots are full already, there are unlimited Auditor spots and if you are signed up as an Auditor and a Handler spot opens, you will get first refusal. In addition, anyone that is registered for that weekend will be welcome to train with me the following Monday and Tuesday.

Thanks for your continued support, I sure love what I do!!!

05/14/2021

A lot of people have asked how to get into a group that comes out here In Tennessee. We are unique in that the trainers that come here to train also can stay on site which makes for a much more relaxing experience.

I do not advertise as such. The majority of my business is by word of mouth. I do not do seminars per se. I don't want to have to stick to one subject when my trainers have many issues with themselves or their dogs. This way, it is day training and we address the training needed for those particular dogs and handlers.

If you are interested in coming out to get professional coaching for YOU, the handler, there are several ways to schedule time.

1) Send me dates that work for you and I can see if there is an opening to either join an existing group or if I am going to be in town for those dates. I can always build a group around the time you can come.
2) Schedule a time to bring your own training group or breed specific group of up to 6 people. I try to keep groups small as I want to make sure everyone gets the most out of their time here.
3) If it is more conducive to have me come to work with your own training group in your location, that can be arranged with advanced notice and my availability. Some folks have me judge their club's hunt test or WC/WCX tests while I am in town to make their dollars go a bit farther in having to bring me in.
4) I am in Camden, South Carolina for the month of March and schedule groups to come down there to get a head start on Spring training.

I have had the opportunity to work with some amazing people and dogs. Thank you all for all the referrals and continued support.

Reminder for my students to register for Pat Burns’ two day free webinar on Line Mechanics for Success. First one is thi...
12/14/2020

Reminder for my students to register for Pat Burns’ two day free webinar on Line Mechanics for Success.

First one is this evening at 8:00 eastern.

https://shoutout.wix.com/so/fdNPMol3O?cid=5b6d78e2-fee3-4ff5-849f-98e6078fa6b7 #/main

Its’ Almost TIME!! I am sooooo excited! (Long email alert- AND so exciting) Hey, friends!! It’s Robin (Creatrix of Fun Officer @ Elite Retrievers) having a blast with Pat’s email today!! I am sooooo excited for so many reasons. As you can see above, Pat and I have been taking some time with th...

To all of my students, read this and think about everything I tell you when we are training.  Good read!
10/06/2020

To all of my students, read this and think about everything I tell you when we are training. Good read!

I’ve seen a lot of amateur trainers simply run their dogs on the setup and totally let slide on the fundamentals. They don’t pick up on or read what the dog is doing or thinking. The handler gets so into running the setup that they forget to “run” their dog. Letting laxed obedience slide. Not heeling or sitting properly. Creeping, not stopping to the whistle. Loopy sits. Auto casting. Not taking a cast. All these warrant some form of thought out timely corrections.
When training it’s all about teaching concepts while maintaining standards taught in early basics. The fundamentals of go, stop and come. Without them you don’t have a foundation to work from.
Timing is a crucial part to making corrections. An easy example is telling your dog to sit 3 times before you follow through with a correction. For me, the correction comes after the first sit if the dog is making no effort to do so. I want a timely sit. Not a dog thinking about doing it. The command should have value the first time it was heard.
That very reason leads into the problems I see in owner/amateur trained dogs. Teach the obedience then maintain your standard in all circumstances. At home and in the field.
It will make training easier and a lot more enjoyable.

09/27/2020

Just wanted to thank all my clients for continuing to come out to the Retriever Retreat and participate in this sport we love, even during these trying times.

Memories of my awesome cruise to Italy, Greece, and Israel from last year have been popping up on my timeline all week, and of course my trip to Europe this year was cancelled, so it had put me in a really bad funk. I so looked forward to seeing Great Britain, Paris, and the Normandy Beaches but being optimistic, I applied my deposit to the same trip for next September. I pray that I will be able to go.

I have so enjoyed this summer of coaching handlers and their dogs, and then hearing about your successes (and the times when dogs are dogs!!). Fall is looking very busy, and for that I am so grateful. You all mean the world to me.

Poodle week went great.  Some awesome handlers and of course wonderful dogs!!!!
09/19/2020

Poodle week went great. Some awesome handlers and of course wonderful dogs!!!!

08/01/2020
05/20/2020

Excellent discussion!!

04/11/2020

Bear Country Retrievers will be hosting a Carol Cassity Workshop here (in Tennessee) at the Retriever Retreat June 26-28, 2020 (2.5 days). Since Carol’s programs are drill based, as are mine, I felt that it would give people another opportunity to hear Carol’s philosophies and see drill work from another prospective.

All Handler spots are already taken as first refusal was given to my clients and students, but there are unlimited Auditor spots available. Those that have Auditor spots will then be given first refusal if any of the Handler spots open up. Observers will be $100 or $50 for an individual day.

Having this type of workshop allows for the most participants and gives the average amateur something tangible to work on. Her main focus will be on building communication and team work with a dog. If you have her book(s), you will be able to see a lot of the drills illustrated and demonstrated. Some of the drills all dogs will participate in; other drills will be based on the level of the dog.

I also encourage you to get her latest book that is available at Gun Dog Supply as a workbook for what you will see in person. That way you can make your own notes right there in your book.

There will also be training available with me the week prior and/or the week after the seminar. 🦆💕😎

Reminder!!!
03/08/2020

Reminder!!!

02/19/2020

This is very cool and a great way to give back to the sport!

02/07/2020
12/20/2019

Bear Country Retrievers and Gun Dogs's cover photo

10/01/2019
Using Attrition To Deal With Dig Backs & Scalloping

For those of you who train with me, great explanation of what we have talked about many times!

Attrition is a very effective and important tool for training retrievers. Yet it’s probably one that’s seriously underutilized by most trainers. Do you consider using attrition when your dog is handling incorrectly?

09/13/2019

Seems like there are a lot of these critters out and about recently. This advice is a good thing to keep around, as are the ingredients mentioned!

Hey guys! Im making a quick PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT for any of you whose dog has ever been or will be sprayed by a skunk!

We have heard this so many times, people calling the salon in a panic that their dog has been sprayed! The owner will start with, HELP my dog has been sprayed, we washed them right away, used tamato juice etc etc. and they still smell! Unfortunately by the time they call the number 1 mistake is already made!

So guys I'm here to let you know if your dog gets sprayed by a skunk whatever you do DO NOT WASH YOUR DOG! The minute you add water to your dogs coat the oils immediately seep into the skin causing it to be next to impossible to remove the smell no matter how many shampoos and fancy remedies you use!

Now, WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOUR DOG IS SPRAYED!?

1. Secure your dog safety outdoors to ensure they do not rub off any oils onto any other surfaces.
2. Get your butt to the store and purchase 3 important ingredients! The first thing your going to want to buy is some 3% hydrogen peroxide and some baking soda. The other go to for me is a skunk shampoo, this is formulated especially for dogs who have been sprayed by a skunk and can be found at most pet stores. If you can not find this product the first remedy of peroxide and soda will do most of the job but a good shampoo afterwards should be done to remove the extra oils from the coat. If you can't find the skunk shampoo try purchasing a dog shampoo that's tuff on grease and oils!

**PAWPULAR PAWS ALSO SELLS THIS SKUNK SHAMPOO**

3. Your going to mix up a quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide with a 1/4 cup of baking soda. Stir together in a bucket. We usually recommend against using any human shampoos or dish detergent on your pet but in this instance we recommend to use a teaspoon or two of dish detergent (depending on the size of your dog) added to the mixture to help it lather evenly on to your dog's coat. Next add the mixture to a bottle to easily apply it to your dogs coat. Then your going to completely soak your dog in this mixture. So if you have a big dog make sure your buying enough ingredients! You may need to make multiple batches until your dog is 100% soaked in this mixture. AGAIN at this point there should be no water used! Once this step is finished you need to now let your dog completely air dry!

This is a lengthy process but nothing is worse then the smell of a skunk, not only will your dog smell if not correctly washed but anywhere your dog goes will smell too! Your entire house, car etc. This smell will last days, even weeks! So take the time and do this right! My personal dogs have been sprayed not once but twice and once was at 3am on a week day, there was no way we were properly de-skunking our dogs at 3am so we had to isolate them in the garage until morning when we were able to get all ingredients and apply them correctly.

4. When your dog is dry, this is where your skunk shampoo comes into action. Lather your dog from head to toe, again soaking right to the root and skin. If you are using the skunk shampoo then you will not use water and let completely dry. If you are using a regular dog degreaser you can skip this step and wash your dog how you normally would with water. We recommend trying your best to find and use the skunk shampoo to ensure your best chance at removing the smell. After they are dry this is where you can wash and lather your dog normally, using a dog shampoo of your choice or bring them to your groomer to have the remanence of the other mixtures properly washed off and leave your dog smelling fresh once again!

We really hope your dog never encounters a skunk but if they do hopefully you will remember what NOT TO DO! 😉

09/08/2019
AKC Junior Hunter Test for Retrievers | Intro to Dog Sports

Pass this on to any of your friends who are thinking of running their dog in a Junior Hunt Test. Video came out really nice!

The AKC Junior Hunter Test for Retrievers is a fun way to give your retrieving breed a chance to demonstrate their natural abilities. This beginner-level tes...

07/26/2019

Oh what a beautiful morning (sing it with me!!!)

07/24/2019

What an amazing week with these gals!

Started each day with Chair Yoga at 7:30 am and finished each training day down at the Galley for a home cooked meal and a glass of wine.

Love doing what I do :-)

07/18/2019

I think this holds true for any performance events.

When you have a young dog that’s loaded with natural ability, you have to constantly remind yourself not to push your dog too much. Because your dog is making so much progress and learning quickly, it’s easy to fall into the trap of training too much too soon.
Sometimes handlers mistake talent for maturity and continue to ask for improved performance when their young dog isn’t ready for it. This can include working too long, asking for too much pace, too much precision, extending outruns, driving too far, putting your dog in with testing sheep, pushing your dog off, etc.
While it may result in your dog being successful in the nursery, that same dog, because too much pressure was applied too soon, may not be competitive or sometimes even keen, when they’re 7, 8, 9 or 10 years old.
You have to respect your individual dogs maturity and mental fortitude, (irrespective of his ability), or risk ruining him. Being patient and making learning intuitive and fun when your dog is young leads to having a positive, enthusiastic sheepdog when he’s older.
—Patience prolongs performance—
You’ve got the rest of your dogs life to work on the finer points, you’ve got this moment, while he’s young, to foster his initial enthusiasm.
Getting a dog to work the way you’re asking isn’t remarkable. Getting a dog to WANT to work the way you're asking is the key.

Patricia Alasdair MacRae

07/14/2019

So true!

06/27/2019
The Retriever Retreat

Just returning from an amazing trip to Alaska. You can see my daily photos on my personal timeline.

Judged for the Fairbanks Retriever Club. Met some wonderful people and got to judge a nice group of Master and Senior dogs. Loved both my co-judges, John Drennen and Carolyn Goll.

Day after my judging assignments, got taken on a beautiful rafting trip down the Kenai River by Code Lee and Stacey Dean. Two goldens, two friends, and a cooler of food and drink :-)

Tuesday through Friday I got to spend some quality coaching time with some women handlers and their dogs. Fabulous people and again, the scenery was breathtaking. Some of the days were 10 hours long, but everyone was so into working and progressing their dogs that the time flew by. That, and it like stayed daylight until around midnight!

To end my trip, got to attend the Alaska Retriever Club Dog Show and Midnight Sun Golden Retriever Club Specialty. What fun it was to see people go from working with me all week to parading their dogs around a show ring and obedience ring!

Pretty busy the months of July and August with lots of training and coaching activity. So appreciative of all the positive feedback from friends and clients on the new direction my life is taking me. I plan on giving up my Professional status and will not be taking on any new dogs for inboard training.

I welcome any of you that want to become a better handler to contact me about small private groups at my new place here in Clarkrange, or at your own training grounds. Be the trainer your dog deserves and become the team that will take you as far as you want to go.

For more information on lodging here at Bear Country, go to www.theretrieverretreat.net. Lois is a great cook and will ensure that you enjoy your stay 🤩🤩

04/28/2019

The Retriever Coach - Kevin Cheff

Loopy/slow sits can be a handler’s worst nightmare. Getting through a tight keyhole, past a danger zone or navigating technical land/water transitions can be virtually impossible with this problem.

So where does this problem start? How do we avoid creating the problem and what can I do to try and manage a slow or loopy sit? Before we get started I think it's important to understand that there are two components to a good whistle stop. 1 - the dog’s hindquarters quickly hitting the ground and 2 - the turn.

It’s my observation that a slow or loopy sit is often the result of incomplete basics. It starts with treat training. We begin by manipulating the treat in a certain way, which causes the dog to drop its bottom to the floor. Soon the dog connects the dots and recognizes that when it hears the word sit or a whistle and it performs the action, it will get a treat. But wait, there’s more to it than that and the details count! It’s important that you don’t dole out treats like a Pez dispenser. Make your puppy work for them, so that it understands that speed and completing the action count. Use a positive word with perfect timing to reinforce the behavior the moment the action is completed, like “YES!” Lastly give the command the attention it deserves. Spend plenty of time getting your puppy to master the sit command. Do 3-4 lessons each day and be sure not to skip days. Dogs retain more and learn best when lessons are close together.

Moving along in the basics, we start to reinforce the sit command and the sit whistle with different forms of pressure such as a lead, pinch collar, stick and e-collar. Once again timing, attention to the details, consistency in training and spending time working on mastering a solid quick sit are all very important. Training should start at your side because this is where you have the most control. There is no sense moving onto a remote sit until your dog quickly gets it’s but on the ground every time it hears the command or whistle.

Teaching sit-to-the-pile is the next step that’s often done poorly. Many would try to teach stopping to the pile on the centerline of their single or double-t. There are two significant problems with that. First, you’re to far away from the dog for it to feel obligated to stop quickly. Particularly when you’re stopping close to or at the pile. Secondly, the number of reps you get in is rather low for the amount of energy the dog expends. I strongly suggest teaching sit-to-a-pile with a pile that is only 15 yards away. The number of reps you get in and the level of control you have is exponentially higher. This is critical for setting a high standard right from the get-go. There is an added benefit to being closer to the pile. It’s much easier to deal with a no-go, popping or a refusal to fetch a bumper. These are things that often come up when you’re reinforcing stopping with the e-collar.

Earlier I mentioned that there are two components to stopping, the sit and the turn. I have observed that demanding a dog complete the turn and sit squarely facing the handler can have a positive impact on a loopy sit. Every time you ask the dog to stop, monitor whether or not the dog completes the turn. If it isn’t facing you squarely, quickly and simultaneously bow, nick with the e-collar and blow a couple of tweets on the whistle. As soon as the dog straightens up, stand up tall and blow a sit whistle.

For those of you who have a dog with a slow or loopy sit, it’s important to get back to the yard. Trying to address a poor sit while out running blinds is an exercise in futility. It just doesn’t work. It can also lead to more problems due to the complicated nature of training and compounded pressure. Making corrections for poor stopping, corrections for cast refusals and corrections for a lack of discipline adds up to too many corrections.

I hope this will help you understand a little more about the nature of a loopy/slow sit. Please feel free to share this post with your friends. If you’d like a diagram and instructions for a drill that I do to work on sloppy sits, follow the link to view and download it.

https://theretrievercoach.com/downloads

Cheers
Kevin Cheff – The Retriever Coach



Photo Credit Johnny Feltovic

04/06/2019

Dancing Hearts - Kathy Kawalec

💡

03/30/2019

Great way to break it down..

When you’re handling a dog on a blind, deciding what information to give your dog with a cast can seem complicated. You might be wondering, what position should I move my arm to when giving the cast? Should I put a lateral step in with the cast or should or should I keep my body in position? Should I use my voice or remain silent with the cast?

Well before you can answer those questions, you have to know how a dog typically responds to casts, body movement and the use of voice.

The answer to the first question is pretty obvious. The closer your arm comes up into the 12 o’clock position, the more likely your dog will move straight away from you and as you drop your arm toward the 9 or 3 o’clock position, the greater the chance your dog will move in a lateral direction with the cast. In theory, a dog that is casting precisely will carry a cast toward the position on the clock that your arm is pointing to.

In order to decide whether or not to put a step in with the cast, lets first assume that the dog can clearly see us. Normally, adding a step with the cast will add lateral change in the direction of the step and cast. Whereas staying in position will give you less lateral change in the direction of the cast.

Finally, using your voice with the cast does two things. One it creates momentum and two, it increases rotation. Deciding whether or not to use your voice with a cast can be tricky. You have to ask yourself two questions before you can make that decision and occasionally those answers can come into conflict.

The first question you need to ask is “Do I need to increase the dogs momentum?” If the dog was hunting short, slowing down, not moving with purpose toward the blind, approaching a scented area etc., you’ll likely need to generate some momentum. The way to do that is to use your voice with your cast. “BACK!”

The second question you need to ask is “Do I want to increase or decrease the amount the dog rotates as it turns to make the cast?” This is a tough question because there are a great number of things you need to know before you can decide your answer. How are the factors, the things that push, pull or deflect your dog, affecting it at that moment? Wind, terrain, cover, an entry to the water, an angle exit from the water, a shoreline, scent blowing across a field, old falls, a gun station, a poison bird, or other diversions are all examples of factors. Remember, using voice increases the amount the dog rotates with the cast. For example. When casting into wind, a dog tends to over-rotate because the wind pushes the dog. We will more often than not see dogs dig straight back or scallop when we cast into wind. This is a very good reason not to use voice with an into wind cast. Vice versa, when casting with the wind a dog tends to under rotate and have excessive lateral change in the direction of the cast. This indicates that using voice with the cast would be appropriate.

When I first started talking about the use of voice I said, “Deciding whether or not to use your voice with a cast can be tricky.” Occasionally there’ll be conflict. You’ll come across moments when you need to increase the dog’s momentum (use voice) but you don’t want to add rotation (stay silent). Normally when this happens tackling momentum takes priority (use voice). But once you recognize your dog has its momentum back, you should stop using your voice if over-rotation is still a concern.

Now that you know how the angle of the cast, body movement and voice affect the direction the dog moves in with a cast, you will be better equipped to predict what information to give your dog. To sum up, if you want more lateral change in the direction of the cast or to minimize the amount of rotation, increase the angle of the cast by moving your arm incrementally toward the 9 or 3 o’clock position, take a micro-step, and stay silent when giving the cast. If you want to decrease the amount of lateral change in the direction of the cast or generate more rotation, move your arm incrementally toward the 12 o’clock position, stay in position and use voice when giving the cast. If you want to generate momentum, use your voice with the cast.

Finally, it’s important to be in the moment. Pay close attention to how your dog responded to the cast it was previously given, in particular the previous one given in the same direction. For example. Before giving a cast to the right, when possible you should recall how it responded to the cast you previously gave to the right. Based on the dogs reaction to the previously given cast to the right, you should make appropriate adjustments if necessary. Did the dog dig back or scallop? Perhaps you need to take a step or refrain from using voice or increase the degree of the cast. You might only need to make adjustments in one area or you may need to make adjustments in all three.

I hope this information will help you get better casts from your dog and ultimately better blinds and greater success. Pease feel free to share this with your friends. If you have questions, please leave them in the comments section and I'll answer them as soon as I can. Photo credit Johnny Feltovic

03/22/2019

Things Dog Handlers Say

02/07/2019

Something I preach all the time. Good advice here!

Running a successful blind starts with a well thought out plan, and a well thought out plan begins by asking yourself several questions. What factors come into play to deflect or draw my dog off line and how will I adjust my cast or use my voice to compensate for them? Where are the danger zones, where can I lose sight of my dog? How will I approach and attack the danger zones to best manage the trouble? Is scent an issue affecting the dogs? What are the elements in the blind that the judges expect me to challenge such as cover patches, points and keyholes? How’s the visibility and how visible am I against the background? Do I need to adjust my handling position? How should I plan to finish the blind so I end up downwind of the bird? Next time you run a blind, don’t just grab your dog and run. Study the blind and the other dogs running before you. You expect your dog to do its best and you should expect nothing less of yourself.

01/20/2019
Turbo Retrievers

For all my golden friends.......please read.

Please feel free to share the following post.

By now most of you have heard about a neurological disease that has recently been discovered in Golden Retrievers. They are not the only breed, but it just recently came to light when two of our Turbo dogs, who we whelped, were diagnosed with NCL. They’re not the first dogs to be diagnosed with this, but they were the first two Turbo dogs to be diagnosed with it and the first case of it that we had even heard about. Now that we have knowledge of it, we have made this public knowledge to get the word out to other breeders so this doesn’t happen to anyone else.

Neuronal Ceroid Lipofuscinoses (NCL) is an inherited progressive neurodegenerative disease. It also affects humans and other animals besides dogs.

Unfortunately, this disease took the lives of Lexi and Gracie before their second birthday.

If we had knowledge of this disease before, we could have prevented this from happening with a DNA Test, a simple blood test.

Now that we breeders have knowledge of this, we can prevent this from ever happening again. Most breeders we know are now getting their dogs tested. We have a database, www.k9data . com where we can all enter our test results. This will help future breeders with their breeding decisions.

In this case, both of Lexi’s and Gracie’s Sire and Dam are both healthy, wonderful dogs. They just happen to both be genetic carriers.

Researchers at The University of Missouri-Columbia College of Veterinary Medicine are working to identify the mutation responsible for NCL.

There is a lot of information on the Internet about NCL. Ron is working with the University of Missouri on their research and Lexi and Gracie’s owners graciously submitted tissue samples as part of this research. Hopefully something positive will come from this, so that others don’t have to go through this.

We made a promise to Lexi and Gracie’s owners that somehow their memories will be honored.

01/17/2019

I know I should not have to send this out to most of the people who frequent my FB page, but I need to get this out there for anyone considering putting a dog with a trainer or know someone who is.

There have been so many recent reports of negligent (and worse than negligent) retriever trainers out there. I, like most of my peers and true professionals, are horrified by this situation and the overall effect it has on the integrity of most of us who have put in the time and energy to do right by the dogs in our care. I am going to put my flame retardant suit on for this but here goes.

A lot of so called "professional trainers" are nothing more than scam artists. They give up their day jobs with the notion that they will make tons of money training dogs. They may have put a title or two on one dog and then hang a shingle out, DOG TRAINER. You may see them at tests and are impressed with the dog they bring to the line, but if you dig deeper and try to see your dog or where they are being kept, you will get lots of runaround and some will NEVER let you come to their place. A lot of these people have only trained labradors and no other breeds like (show) goldens, chessies, poodles, flat-coats, etc. which do not always conform to pressure and/or haste.

They have no facilities or adequate space to care properly for dogs, nor do they have anything but a cookie cutter method of dog training to pass the dogs off as "trained dogs". Sometimes you get the dog back barely any better than it was sent off, as they would rather show up to tests with their better trained dogs and their B Team dogs just sit in kennels while they are away.

Dogs need more than time in a kennel or on a dog trailer. Anything less is inhumane. And, not to keep up with cleanliness in and around kennels or airing yards is inexcusable and leads to health problems that sometimes take months or years to recuperate from. It is no wonder that so many people now are thinking twice about sending a dog away for fear of what is happening in the news will surely happen to their dog.

PLEASE, if you are considering putting a dog with a trainer, do your homework and get references; and, if you are not allowed to go to where your dog is being kept and cared for, RUN. Be sure to get more than lip service on where the dog is in its training and be welcomed to come out and take part in the daily training of your animal.

The trainers referenced above or being exposed on social media and news outlets are NOT the norm. I consider myself thankful that I am surrounded by trainers who I respect and would refer to in a heartbeat.

Address

1605 Highway 141 N
Hartsville, TN
37074

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