If your dog is being pushy that’s one thing…. If they’re just trying to cuddle because they’re cold that’s another thing. Bowie gets away with this because it’s adorable and also because he has a solid OFF command. If I asked him to, he would back off. But why would I? Haha
Here is Bowie staring at the enemy across the street (a cat…a big trigger for him)…
As long as he is far enough away that his reaction is not explosive, I encourage him to look and reward him when he looks back to me.
If hes freaking out - we’re too close.
Don’t be so quick to punish your dog for just looking at a trigger. Allow them the opportunity to make the right choice if you are a safe distance away and they aren’t under a crazy amount of stress.
✋🏻 Stop applying constant tension on the leash when you want your dog to return to your side!
There’s a natural balancing mechanism called the opposition reflex. When you pull back on the leash, your dog’s instinct is to resist by pushing forward against that pressure.
The goal to teaching a loose leash walk is that when a dog is by your side, there is no leash pressure. However, if they move ahead of you, they create that uncomfortable tension again and must come back to the heel position to relieve it.
If you maintain constant pressure on the leash, their instincts will drive them to push forward even harder. If you hold tension still when they’re at your side they won’t understand that the heel position is what will make the pressure turn off.
Using the leash effectively to communicate with your dog is crucial for teaching them how to walk on a loose leash!
If you’re struggling with this, reach out to schedule a lesson!
Your #1 priority in training should be a bulletproof recall !
Decompression helps reduce stress, fosters a positive mindset, and enhances learning.
Decompressing after walks (when your pup is more likely to relax) helps teach them how to shut off that anxiety/hyperactivity.
This may take several attempts before your dog chooses to lay down and maintain that down on their own.
Take your usual walk, allowing your dog to sniff and potty first. After that, move away from distractions to create a calm space for decompression.
Find a seat, relax, and wait for your dog to settle down. During this time, avoid talking to them, giving treats, or petting them, as these actions can encourage unhealthy self-soothing behaviors.
The more you practice this, the faster your dog will learn to relax, leading to an overall improvement in their state of mind.
When you’re practicing something new, always wait until you have their attention before asking anything of them!
If the dog is off sniffing something or rolling in the grass and you ask for “place” or a “sit”, are they really going to follow through?
Get eye contact first so that you are setting them up for successful practice reps!
Is your dog more motivated by toys or treats?
The goal for training is to provide your dog with more freedom!
We teach the heel position to pet dogs so that we can use it as a tool to keep them and others safe.
They should not be in a heel position for the entirety of the walk!
However, if you have a reactive or highly distracted dog I highly encourage you to take the time to teach heel so that you AND your dog can enjoy the walk 🦮
Teaching the TOUCH command as an interactive redirection tool can be highly effective in managing continuous distractions while on the walk.
While you can’t control how loudly your neighbor’s dogs bark when you walk by, you can help your dog feel more comfortable during these situations. Instead of allowing them to become agitated or attempt to flee, you can engage them with the TOUCH command.
By establishing a strong response to the TOUCH command, you can consistently ask your dog to engage with you, keeping their mind occupied as you navigate past challenging distractions.
Treat to nose distraction when you KNOW you’re about to pass by dogs that would normally set your dog off…
I do not release the treat until we have passed the distraction. This can be used as an interactive redirection if you haven’t hammered in those redirection cues like Let’s Go, Leave It or Touch.
Notice how much I’m talking to him during this process….
He feels threatened by barking dogs so he continues to rush forward after he received the treat which I allow because this is his flee response and I prefer it over the alternative. Once he feels safe he waits for me to catch up and continues in his heel position…
This ENTIRE process should be done quietly. Keep it SILENT & SIMPLE👌🏻
Create clear communication between you and your dog!!!
I hear people say “my dog just won’t listen” or “my dog is stubborn and pretends not to hear me”, etc.
Part 1: treat lure your dog into the action you want them to perform until they can perform that action fluently
Then NAME that action and repeat the process using the name of the action
Part 2: Pair that action with a VISUAL cue
Part 3: Use ONLY the words that you have taught your dog when you are communicating with them
Stick to these three things when you are training your dog and they will be much more obedient and much more clear on what it is you’re asking.