FluentDog Training

FluentDog Training We help dogs and people communicate clearly with each other via board and train & private lessons.

12/27/2025

Always’ latest trick: “respect” means bow!

12/27/2025

No group class tomorrow, Sunday Dec 28!

12/14/2025

No group class today! Enjoy the snow!

12/12/2025

Why I include all equipment in my training programs. The quality really matters and quality is not always commensurate with price. I mean the qualities the equipment has and how it works.

The art of doing nothing…very hard for most people! Another trick for dealing with a jumpy dog in the moment is to calml...
12/07/2025

The art of doing nothing…very hard for most people!
Another trick for dealing with a jumpy dog in the moment is to calmly walk into their space until the dog puts all 4 feet back on the ground. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1ANHh4mp1o/?mibextid=wwXIfr

It is a dog's natural behavior to reunite with family members, whether dog or human, after the family member has returned. Dogs and wolves reunite in a celebratory fashion, and the returning wolf or dog may get a reminder of where he lies in the pack by the reaction of the pack. Whichever place the returning member lies in a pack, greeting a returning pack member is a common ritual deeply ingrained in dogs. When I come home, my dogs gather around the door, wag their tails, and hop around, but not on me. I walk into the house, and they follow me. Then I pat each dog. The greeting behavior can get out of control when the dog is exuberant and downright rude by jumping, hu***ng, mouthing, barking, and whining when greeting the returning member. That's when we need to change something – usually about ourselves.

The root of how a dog greets a person in rudeness or excitement is what that person represents to the dog. Sometimes, dogs have genetic or past experiences that cause them to see people as sources of excitement or anxiety. But if we do not acknowledge the dog’s need to reconnect, we risk causing other ways the dog will keep saying, “Hey I am here. Do you see me? I guess not. I will have to be louder!” Then we finally give in and wham – we just rewarded more severe behavior. It’s all about teaching the dog how to get their needs met while being acceptable to us as well.

Common training suggestions to this particular problem are punishment for whining and being excited, crating the dog so he can't greet the person at the door, and throwing food on the floor so the dog won't whine. Granted, these methods will all cause different behaviors than whining when the person returns, but none of them solve the real issue. Plus, there is no acknowledgement of the dog’s needs to reconnect and so the dog never gets to satisfy his natural urge, likely making this a vicious spiral downward type of situation. Building a desired behavior of the dog greeting the person calmly is omitted in all these scenarios. Acknowledgement is all the dog wants, not a party.

The correction, via e-collar or other means, used to punish the dog when wanting to perform a deeply ingrained ritual behavior of greeting pack members, might stop the behavior. But it could also create more anxiety because, as the trainer is punishing the behavior of whining or jumping, they are also punishing the dog for wanting reconnection. If we acknowledge the dog’s need to reconnect, he will be seen, feel reassured, relax, and become open to the suggestion of how to greet people. There may be a need to not allow some behavior, and vacilate between blocking and reinforcing. But generally it is a situation when I would redirect the dog into the behavior I want, and then reinforce it.

Throwing food on the floor will certainly distract the dog from whining and jumping and create another behavior. The new behavior will be the dog will start looking for food when the owner returns, and maybe to the extent of becoming OCD. Do I want a dog that looks at the floor for food when I get home? Nope. I want the dog to greet me politely. Throwing food on the floor doesn’t teach what I want, it just gives the dog a totally unrelated behavior to do, and it avoids the real issue. Pairing my appearance with food being thrown on the floor, especially without consideration to the dog’s state of mind, will probably create more excitement when I return. If one is to do this procedure effectively, one would have to condition the dog to be calm around food, and that adds an extra step. (BTW, this is the pitfall of tossing food to fix any behavior. The dog is in a seeking but excited state when actually getting the food.)

The crate isn't a bad idea to alleviate some of the dog's excitement at the door when the person returns. But now we have excitement when the person goes to let the dog out of the crate. This can be solved, but the person will have a similar issue the dog is already displaying at the door.

So - how do we build a happy, calmer energy in our dogs when we return home? I begin to build the type of relationship I want with my foster dogs from the beginning. When I return, I walk in the house, put away my things, and then greet the dogs with a simple pat. If my dogs are crated, I put away my things, then let the dog out, without excitement in myself. I don’t use excitement in the house. That is for playing outside. My dogs follow me around the house, but they are not allowed to manage my personal space or demand things of me. My dogs have nice dog beds to keep them off my furniture. I do not allow dogs to be on top of me or guard me in any way. My dogs seem to appreciate my pro-social approach and the calm environment. I allow my dogs a lot of autonomy as long as it doesn’t cause conflict in the pack.

When “training” the same applies. When I enter a client’s home, I enter it calmly and non-threateningly. The client’s dog learns I represent calmness and stability instead of affection or excitement. I see a lot of training based on building excitement in dogs, with lots of movement, food tossing, and animated talking. (Yessssss!). My training style is mentally engaging and enjoyable for the dog without taking the dog into excitement, especially for an already excited or reactive dog. If we build excitement with a dog, it is entirely unfair to expect the dog to be calm when we enter the house or show up at the door. If we are not calm, how can we teach the dog to be? Emulate what you want to see in the dog.

If I get a dog that already reacts excitedly to me, I work to change this association. I have done this with many excited foster dogs. I gently hold the dog’s collar and/or place a hand on the dog’s shoulder, with a calm but firm touch. I may have to move the dog and place his paws on the floor if he jumps, or step into his space. Then, when the dog is a teeny bit calmer, acknowledge him and say, "Hey buddy. Good to see you too." If that doesn't work, I omit the touch, walk in the door, go about my business, and acknowledge the dog when he is calm. I may also combine the touch with a soothing scratch or massage under the chin. If the dog gets excited, I check my energy. Some dogs can tolerate very small doses of attention in the beginning. I also work on the dog being calm when touched and interacting with me many times a day to gradually change the dog’s association with me approaching and touching him.

I want to teach the dog how to fulfill his need for reconnection appropriately. After a few days of consistent teaching, the dog will understand how we greet each other and get exponentially better at greeting me in the way I am requesting and acknowledging. As long as we are consistent, doing what is best for the dog instead of us wanting a party when we get home, the behavior should improve.
Dogs are quite receptive to learning better manners and behaviors, especially when their needs are met, and the solution is teamwork, not just punishment.

If you want to learn more about relationship-based training, please follow my page or subscribe to my YouTube channel or podcast, both named “What Dogs Have Taught Me.”

https://www.youtube.com/
https://open.spotify.com/show/7sfTRT4Zf1teP75gbTASMM?si=be0006db885c4ddb

12/04/2025

TEN NEW PUPPY TIPS TO SAVE DOLLAR AND MIND

As a general rule, people spend less time researching and buying a dog than they do buying a new car.

And the result shows – dogs totally unsuited for people’s lifestyles, dogs wreaked by serious health defects, and scores of thousands of dogs abandoned because “the puppy,” which once seemed so simple and sweet, has become “the dog” which eats the couch, craps the rug, and barks to wake the dead.

Of course buying a dog is often a well-planned venture compared to preparing for the arrival of the dog itself. Talk to any owner of a pet store, and they will tell you people walk in everyday, new puppy in arms, without a collar or a clue.

So is there a better way? Do I have useful advice?

I do, and it’s pretty simple stuff designed to save you both money and grief.

▪️USE THE INTERNET

If you are getting a new dog, you are going to need a few things, and it’s best to try to manage down the price, even as you brace yourself for the expense. Items on your list of necessities will include food and water bowls (hard plastic is best), a brush and/or de-matting comb, crates, leashes, a collar, tags, dog toys, and at least one book on puppy care and dog training.

More on some of these items in a second, but Tip Number One is to use the Internet to price shop. Combine items as much as possible to get free shipping. A crate that is $70 at the pet store will be $30 on the Internet, and similar savings will follow down the line.

▪️GET MORE THAN ONE DOG CRATE

A crate is where your dog will sleep at night, where it will be confined when company comes over, and where it will travel when you go to the park, store, or veterinarian.

You will want at least two hard plastic crates; one for the house and one for the car. A car crate protects both the car and dog, and is especially useful with a young, undisciplined dog, which is otherwise likely to distract the driver and cause an accident.

In addition to two plastic crates, give some thought to getting a really large metal collapsible crate where the puppy can stay confined during the hours when you are at work, or when you out are on errands. I have used “X-pen” folding fences for containment in the past, but a large collapsible metal crate serves more uses over time, is impossible for a dog to climb out of, and folds flat for easy storage. Do I recommend getting an X-pen as well? I do.

▪️GET A SIMPLE NYLON WEB LEASH

Retractable string leads are inadequate to control even a small dog, are easily chewed through, are almost impossible to affix to a fence or post, and can easily trip you. In short, there ought to be a law against them. You can also skip an expensive leather leash, as a puppy will inevitably use it as a chew toy. Instead, get two 8- or 10-foot web leashes (you will want one for the house and one for the car), and affix a carabiner to each handle so they can be easily clipped to fence, post, or belt, as needed. Why do I like a 10-foot leash? Simple: you can hook it like a bandolier over your shoulder and torso to walk a dog hands-free. Is there a place for a retractable string leash? Yes; it’s a great tool to use to teach recall. But do not use it to walk the dog.

▪️GET AN EXPANDABLE WEB COLLAR WITH SNAP

Cheap, expandable nylon web collars with plastic snap closures are better than expensive leather and buckle collars which have to be swapped out several times with a growing dog, and which will rot and fail over time. Coordinate the color of your new nylon web collar and leash, and your young dog will be styling on Day One!

▪️GET A SLIDE TAG FOR YOUR DOG’S COLLAR

The “dangle tags” commonly sold at pet stores are made of soft aluminum and will quickly wear out at the hole, only to fall off and be lost forever. Instead, order a stainless-steel slide tag which will lie flat on the collar and never wear out.

Slide tags are made to go on snap-closure adjustable nylon collars or single- or double-thickness flat collars (leather or nylon), depending on which version you order. Slide tags can be ordered from Indigo Collartags at http://www.indigocollartags.com/, or Boomerang Tags at http://www.boomerangtags.com/

▪️DOG TOYS TO SAVE ON SHOES AND SURGERIES

Young dogs like to chew on things, and if you do not provide your young dog with something to teeth on, it will find its own options: electrical cords, shoes, socks, books, cell phones, reading glasses, and even upholstery.

Your dog need toys, but not just any toy will do. Skip plush toys and soft rubber items with squeakers inside them. Your dog will rip these up in no time, and may swallow the pieces, which can lead to expensive surgery to remove the blockage. Instead, go for two standbys in the world of dog toys: a flat rawhide chew (not a knotted rawhide) and a hard rubber Kong. Flat rawhide pieces will disappear over time, but they are likely to give a young pup several hours or days of enjoyment before they are fully consumed (though you may need to soften one end in water to get a young pup started and interested). Hard rubber Kong toys will survive even the most aggressive puppy chewers if they are properly sized, and they can be packed with treats and even frozen to provide hours of canine entertainment. Order four or five Kongs, so that two or three are always stuffed and in the freezer. Rope tug toys are also a winner.

▪️YOUR WEANED PUPPY CANNOT CONTROL ITS BOWELS, SO YOU NEED TO CONTROL ACCESS TO FOOD AND WATER

A puppy should stay with its mother until it is at least eight weeks old. After that, a puppy will be weaned, but it will still have strong oral fixations. Unfortunately, a dog under the age of four months cannot control its bowels, and so a very young dog presented with constant food and drink will p**p and p*e all day long. The result: your puppy will have a constantly soiled pen, and you will feel your dog is never entirely “safe” outside that pen. When “accidents” are routine, tensions increase within the family and resentment toward the dog builds.

A better way to live is to limit your dog’s water and food intake to four times a day with outside potty breaks a few minutes after intake, and again 20 minutes later. The notion that a young dog needs constant access to food and water after eight weeks of age is nonsense. In the wild, fox and wolf dams exit their dens for long periods to hunt, eat, drink, stretch, and socialize. When they come back to the den or rendezvous site, the pups tumble out to feed and defecate. Food and water are *not* provided 24 hours a day.

▪️PUPPIES NEED BOUNDARIES

Your puppy should not be allowed to roam anywhere and everywhere inside your house or apartment. Your attention will eventually wane, and when that happens a rug will be soiled, an electrical cord chewed, a book ruined, or your puppy will take a tumble down the stairs. Fence up! The good news is that we all have a perfect puppy room available -- the bathroom. Hard-tile floors and surfaces mean the dog has little to wreck, while the limited floor space is easily covered with newspapers. Make sure the toilet lid is down, the shower curtain is up, and towels and toilet paper are out of reach, and the pup will do fine with just a child safety-gate to block the door. Just step over when you need to go!

▪️GET A FEW BOOKS AND READ THRM

No one was born knowing how to raise or train a dog, and YES, there are things to learn. Get a book that gives simple instruction on training a dog to walk on lead, sit, come, stay, and lie down. You want an instruction book here, not a book on training party tricks, a book of stories, a dog trainer’s autobiography, or a broad treatise on dog training theory. A dog only needs to know four or five basic commands to fit well anywhere, and all the training systems will work provided the owner is consistent and works with the dog two or three times a day for a month or two.

▪️WALK YOUR DOG EVERY DAY

Your young dog needs socialization and exercise, and one way to achieve both is to walk your dog at least twice a day, morning and night. It should be said that YOU are walking your dog; it is not walking you. A short leash and a firm walk should signal that your dog is to follow you, not dawdle at the curb sniffing. There is a time and place for sniffing, but you will determine where and when that occurs.

Is there more to know? Of course. But follow these tips and you’ll save a little money and grief.

Part Time Kennel Techs Needed in Urbana, MDLooking for someone to help with the morning and evening dog care at FluentDo...
11/16/2025

Part Time Kennel Techs Needed in Urbana, MD

Looking for someone to help with the morning and evening dog care at FluentDog Training, LLC. The Kennel Technician is responsible for the day-to-day care of dogs in the kennel. This includes pottying dogs, feeding and medication, and cleaning. Morning shifts also include checking in day-camp dogs.

Following safety protocols and openness to all balanced training tools is key. On-the-job training is provided. The job requires a RELIABLE worker with an interest in dog behavior.

We are looking for a responsible person who always strives to do the right thing even when no one is watching. This is a small business with room to grow for a person who is hungry to learn from a trainer who is a NePoPo® Gold School graduate.

We currently need help for opening and closing shifts:
7am-9am
Closing from 8-9pm
Potential to increase hours in the future. We are typically very busy around the holidays.
Pay is $16/hr.

Please send your resume and a brief email explaining your interest in the position to [email protected], using the subject line "FluentDog Application." You will not be considered if you fail to follow these application instructions.

Our hiring decisions are based on our mission statement and core values.

FluentDog Mission Statement:
Empowering dog owners to enjoy the life they always imagined with their dog by bridging the gaps in dog-human communication.

Core Values:
Trustworthiness: Do the right thing when no one is watching. Follow procedures, be on time, notice when something’s amiss and find a solution.

Compassion: Meet dog owners where they are without judgment. Help dogs and owners...without being a “yes man.” Telling owners the truth, and helping dogs learn yes AND no is compassionate.

Effectiveness: Our training system and animal husbandry protocols produce dogs who perform “on cue with heart and soul.” We are open to all techniques and we “train the dog in front of us” because the dog’s responses show what works or if something needs adjustment.

Leadership: Take ownership of your role using your unique talents. Be a fair leader to the dogs. Show owners the Good Dog Lifestyle! Be proactive rather than reactive.

Requirements
Age 18+, High school graduate at minimum
Professional kennel or stable care experience a plus
Walking or standing for extended periods of time
Ability to work outside in various weather conditions
Attention to detail
Ability to follow standard operating procedures
Initiative to work with minimal supervision and direction
We are a drug free workplace
All candidates under consideration will be subject to a standard background check

Job Type: Part-time
Pay: $16.00 per hour
Benefits:
Professional development assistance
Eligibility for retirement plan after 6 months
Referral program
Work Location: In person

Come check out the vendors at Barks & Brews on Dec 21! We’ll be there!
11/13/2025

Come check out the vendors at Barks & Brews on Dec 21! We’ll be there!

Address

Ijamsville, MD
21754

Opening Hours

Monday 9am - 5pm
Tuesday 9am - 5pm
Wednesday 9am - 5pm
Thursday 9am - 5pm
Friday 9am - 5pm

Telephone

+12405288005

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