Fatt Rabbit Farms

Fatt Rabbit Farms Small hobby breeder & botanist. Hollands are my main focus at this time SALES POLICY UPDATE:
**First Come First Serve** There will no longer be a list. Just ask!

Bunnies will not be held without a 50% non-refundable deposit. If deposit is not received by the next day of our verbal agreement, the Bunny will go back up for adoption. If the bunny isn't picked up by reserved date, ALL monies will be forfeited and the bunny will go back up for adoption. A ready date is always estimated for our kits. All balances are to be submitted by that date unless otherwise

agreed upon or final balances need to be submitted no later than 48 prior to our agreed pickup, whichever of these come first as not all rabbits are kits that leave my premises. Usually each buyer has ample time to find transportation or pick up. I will allow 30 days from the time they are ready for you to pick up before I will place back for sale. (But again balances are to be paid in full by the ready date, not pick up date) This applies to the kits that are still in the grow out pens. Otherwise pick up date is the date we have agreed upon. If you need an extension of our care you will expected to pay average costs of boarding (dependent on current market) unless its otherwise agreed upon. We should not be expected to have and keep cage space open for a purchased bunny awaiting your pick up. We will work with transporters as long as the meeting place is within 30 miles of our location. We may be able to meet further but there may be fees involved to do so. However we do not guarantee care or health of the rabbit once it's been handed over to any other party. All bunnies will come with a care sheet. transition bag of food as well as a little hay to get you started. Pedigrees are only given if specifically stated. I do not pedigree pet rabbits under any circumstances. I do have other starter packages available upon request for certain fees. Some options do have small starter cages. If you can NOT care for your bunny or have a life changing situation please contact us right away and we will be glad to help you find it a proper home. With any pedigreed rabbits we do reserve the right to buy them back at the same price sold before you are given leave to rehome them elsewhere. If we refuse and you do rehome them then we are to be given that parties information.
****Please note that we are always willing to take our bunnies back without a refund if you feel you just can not care for the bunny for one reason or another. Some of our breeds require extra care. We do not recommend these breeds for beginners. English lops, Velveteen lops as well as any of our Angoras require more upkeep and care than some other breeds. English Lops definitely require more care than regular breeds and tend to be more sensitive to changes. Continuous research on any breed will only benefit you and your bunny. They can live to be 10-12 yrs old and require love, attention and commitment. Keep that in mind before you decide if a rabbit is right for you. Also we personally do not recommend any rabbit as a child's pet. They are cute but rarely cuddly and children tend to have different expectations then what that reality is. Most of our rabbis enjoy attention and love pets but very few bunnies regardless of breeder actually enjoy being picked up. If you do decide still to purchase a bunny for your child regardless of my attempts to persuade otherwise, understand that YOU the parent are the one adopting/purchasing said bunny from us and our expectations are that YOU will ultimately be responsible for it's care. Fatt Rabbit Farms is not responsible for any bunny after they have left our care. We also can not guarentee the showing and breeding capabilites of the rabbit you choose. We do our best to pair our bunnies with the best owner for them though. We do have the right to refuse a sale at any time for ant any reason. If we decide not to complete the sale after a deposit has been given then we will refund the monies paid. This is solely at our discretion. Please private message (PM) or e-mail us if you have any questions or concerns regarding our sales policy. By applying the deposit, you agree to our Sales Policy. This sales policy is subject to change at any time without notice. All sales are final. No refunds, exchanges, or returns! A 50% non-refundable, non-transferrable, deposit is required to hold rabbits for ANY length of time, meaning even if it's only a few days before your desired pick up. Deposit will be applied to the total amount due. Rabbits not being held by a deposit will be sold on a first come, first served basis. In the event that something happens wjile in our care to the deposit rabbit we will replace it with a comparable rabbit or work something out, at our sole discretion. Any requests for additional photos or photo updates prior to purchase will be accommodated as our schedule allows, but cannot be guaranteed as we are quite busy. Photos from our page and website, as well as additional photos that are provided must not be distributed without our consent. Payment methods:
We accept cash in person preferred, PayPal but only under friends and family as we've had previous customer cancel a payment after pickup. We may have other apps upon request but will NOT accept checks, cashiers checks or money orders. We certify that to the best of our knowledge and belief any rabbit we sell is healthy, free of disease, and free of disqualifications*. All rabbits are sold with up to date pedigrees (unless being sold as a pet) or unless we state othereise. We make no guarantees of any kind, including, but not limited to, how juniors will develop, future breeding abilities, and how any rabbit will place at a show. Older rabbits may not be in show condition. We accept no liability for the health of the animal once the rabbit has left our care. We are not responsible for the care given by another individual. It is the buyer’s responsibility to check, or have an agent check, every animal carefully before purchase (or ask any and all questions if shipping).
*Unless otherwise noted at time of sale, or sold as brood/breeding stock or pet. All rabbits sold are entered into our database and must retain the tattoo and prefix given to them (Fatt Rabbit Farms FRF or other depending upon original breeder). If the rabbit is a junior or has not been named (tattoo number shown after prefix) you may request a name change in our system. If no request is received, or the rabbit has had offspring, the name on the pedigree will remain its formal name and may not be changed. (Adapted, with permission)
By putting a deposit down you are agreeing to this policy in its entirety. By purchasing you are agreeing that we determined the bunny healthy before leaving Our rabbitry.

A quick word.....I feel the need to discuss nutrition for a upcoming Momma, a lactating Momma and her kits. Many breeder...
05/12/2024

A quick word.....

I feel the need to discuss nutrition for a upcoming Momma, a lactating Momma and her kits. Many breeders have been given advice that either is outdated or flat out wrong. I see posts over and over again asking for advice on what pregnant does should be fed and when to introduce pellets to kits. Newer and newer research comes out all the time and unlike the weirdos like me that keep their eyes on research sites, the vast majority of breeders just don't read these kind of papers for the hell of it. So I'll do a run down of a few things you all should know.
Pregnant/Expectant does.... While some do ok without a feed increase it isn't in their best interest as the further along they get into their pregnancy the more the fetuses take. This starts their trip into motherhood in a deficit. And every mom knows how exhausting it is naturally to be a mom let alone if you're not getting the proper amount of nutrition to sustain your own body so it can produce enough milk to supply others with the nutrients they need. By no means does this mean that you should start giving them free reign to pellets a week after breeding but by week 3 development is in full swing and fetal growth is becoming more pronounced. Here is where you'll want to add a few extra teaspoons to help compensate. Keep increasing every few days until kindling at which point they should have free access to their pellets and their hay. For the overweight or even the bit chunky this little bit of extra food can be life saving. Ketosis aka pregnancy toxemia amd Hypocalcemia, both can be deadly and is being seen more and more often in my groups . Once symptoms are seen it's difficult to turn around. Ketosis is brought on by a quick drop in their caloric intake & nutrition and hypocalcemia is due to the body not getting enough calcium which can cause deficits in other nutrients. The issue with these two is that symptoms are often so similar that it can be hard to differentiate. The short of it is they need a shot of glucose and calcium gluconate. These two items can help but is still not a guarantee. With ketosis giving them electrolytes with honey water may give the necessary boost needed to at least give them a fighting chance. But offering tums with calcium at this point will not save the day. So basically I'm telling you all to just help by giving them a little extra rations during week 3 and 4. Prevention is key in all things
This brings me to the kiddos. I've found many do not introduce kits to pellets until they are well out of the nest box. Did you know in the wild babies are introduced to solids beginning on day 1! Though that's not necessary for our domestics, studies have found that introducing pellets by day 8 almost completely eliminates weaning enteritis. I have always introduced pellets by day 10 or 11 (by the time their eyes open) and rarely suffered issues with the GI after doing this but never put two and two together to understand the possible reasoning. I am a firm advocate of only giving kits their moms diet so assumed this was the reasoning not necessarily the early intro. I just thought it helped sustain them and the moms a little better which I'm sure it still does but to help prevent gastritis I'd try about anything. Every breeder knows how devastating any gi upset can be. So why not give it a try.

Passalurus Ambiguous aka Rabbit Pinworms Important to note that this particular nematode is not zoonotic but is actually...
11/20/2022

Passalurus Ambiguous aka Rabbit Pinworms

Important to note that this particular nematode is not zoonotic but is actually species & host specific. While you can’t catch them by handling keep in mind that undercooked rabbit meat can leave you feeling a bit weak in the knees due to thoughts about the going-ons around your bumhole lol.
There are a few other pinworms rabbits can contract (in particular P. nonanulatus also is reported) but the Passalurus Ambiguous is by far the most common.
Pinworms in general are nothing to rush out to buy treatment unless certain criteria is present. They can actually be of some use, aiding in digestion of plants. Rabbit pinworms are typically not harmful unless the infestation is heavy to severe. Larger worm loads can cause anorexia, loss of body condition and weight, compaction, constipation & blockage, re**al prolapse and perianal itching which can cause chewing that in turn can result in sores & infection.
Pinworms are harder to treat because of the need rabbits have to consume their cecotropes. However most adult rabbits will never have much of an a problem with these tiny nematodes and only get noticed come processing day or during a surgery. They can cause issues with kits especially at weaning so if you are aware of the presence of pinworms in your brood does I would suggest treating them for future problems.

Pinworms live in the upper GI. They inhabit the cecum, small intestine and colon. The eggs get passed out with the f***s and get consumed with the cecotropes.
Pinworm free tends to be short lived. But it's still best to treat if you are seeing the pinworms and/or the symptoms stated above. Both indicate heavier loads present. To treat effectively you should attack it with multiple steps.

Here's MY recommendation:

Step 1—Spread food grade diatomaceous earth around the Rabbitry or ground. The idea is a very light coating that will help eliminate them in the environment. **Do NOT feed or consume DE, not even food grade. Though you can not see the actual structure of DE without a telescope please note that the edges are sharp. In fact DE works on parasites because of it's edges. It cuts into the parasite or nematodes bodies. Unfortunately recent research studies have shown it can cause internal bleeding if given as supplement. Light spread would be extremely unlikely to cause harm in this way. So again spread lightly around the environment.

Step 2—add one of these antiparasitics.

Fenbendazole–20 mg/kg PO in two doses 10 days apart. . I recommend Safeguard Goat Dewormer Suspension formula as it's easy to measure out. .1cc = 20 mg

Thiabendazole 50 mg/kg PO in two doses 10 days apart. This antiparasitic is effective but often not used in favor of other drugs that have less side effects. It's important to note that side effects are typically not an issue unless you've overmedicated.

Alternate Piperazine routes: Piperizine Citrate–Individually dose rabbit directly by mouth at 200 mg/kg then repeat in 10-14 days. Or you can mix it into the food by giving an adult rabbit 0.5 g/kg daily for 2 consecutive days. Wait 10-14 days and redose again for 2 more consecutive days. For juniors & juveniles (rabbits less than 6 mos) give 0.75 g/kg per day for 2 consecutive days. Wait 10-14 days and redose again for 2 consecutive days.

Piperazine may also be given in drinking water 100 mg/100 mL of water for 1 day, repeat in 10 days.

The two most often recommended Piperazine formulas:
Piperazine adipate
500 mg/kg PO q 24 h during 2 days

Piperazine citrate
200 mg/kg PO
Repeated after 10-14 days

***All content is based on my own experiences. I am a long time rabbit caregiver and breeder. I have a background in rabbit husbandry, study and research as well as being a hobby botanist. I use holistic treatments whenever possible on myself as well as my animals.
I am not a medical expert or a veterinarian. Any medical treatments is best discussed with your veterinarian before proceeding. It can be dangerous to treat symptoms without diagnostic tests. Understand that using my posts as medical advice is your own decision. Any treatment can cause side effects that may result in death. That goes for any thing.
Pic 4 attention

Myiasis aka Flystrike Treatment & PreventionFly strike, or myiasis, is an extremely distressing condition affecting many...
07/05/2022

Myiasis aka Flystrike
Treatment & Prevention

Fly strike, or myiasis, is an extremely distressing condition affecting many rabbits during the summer months. Flies are attracted to lay their eggs on the rabbit under certain circumstances. Some examples include but not limited to: urine burn, cakey butts (sticky p**p, diarrhea, excess cecotropes), open wounds-injury-infection, weepy eyes, wet fur especially dewlap and ge***al area. The larvae after hatching are able to attack healthy tissue and are capable of causing considerable soft tissue damage Living conditions can contribute highly myiasis. Keeping the environment as clean as possible can help considerably keep insects at bay.

Prevention products

Rearguard
https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk/blog/post/flystrike-prevention

Beaphar Fly Guard
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114709477018

Prevention methods:

• Keep the bedding clean and empty trays daily especially during the wetter, hotter months.
• Immediately address anything that may cause f***l or urine contamination on the skin
• Daily inspections of each rabbit is suggested. Check the perianal areas in particular! At the bare minimum, definitely check the ill, the young, the elderly, the obese or any that are disabled on a daily basis.
• Use flea combs to help detect the presence of eggs and the tiny larvae. Even the larger maggots can hide easily.
• Consider investing in mosquito net of even window screening to cover all entry points or to even cover cages.
• Flystrips work pretty well even indoors. Flytraps (with the liquid attractant) are best used to lure the flies away from the rabbits. They work but the smell tends to attract more flies then just the ones already present.

Recommendation:

Vet assistance is the first recommendation if it's an option for you. Eggs and larvae can be difficult to see, let alone remove. I am listing treatment recommendations jic seeking medical assistance is not an option.

Treatments:

• Use a flea/lice comb to comb through the fur and remove as much of the eggs and larvae as possible.

• Gently clip away any fur around the affected area. This makes visibility accessible and makes treatment easier.

• Use the tweezers to remove any maggots...try to avoid crushing any when possible. Use of a lice comb can be helpful but if not available reuse the flea comb to help remove anything left behind.
• Use a sterile saline solution or an antiseptic solution (such as povidone-iodine or chlorhexiderme) to clean the area and/or any wounds. I prefer Skintegrity that I buy for my own first aid cabinet but a diluted betadine will work too. Vetericyn makes an antimicrobial wound cleaner as well. Refrain from using peroxide if possible. Peroxide will damage good tissue as well. However if you must then be sure to follow it with a sterile saline solution to help stop it from going on further than the surface.
• Bathing with an antiseptic or insecticide solution is usually not recommended. The whole procedure can be stressful for the rabbit, and often can cause panic which may lead to heart attack or shock. Yes, those are the absolute worst case scenarios but they can happen. However if a bath is absolutely necessary, then afterwards the rabbit should be dried with a towel and a hair-dryer or it can be placed under a heat lamp until dry.
• ***The heat from the lamp or hair dryer will at least help bring the remaining worms to the surface of the skin! Making it easier to remove and discard any remaining larvae.
• If eggs or larvae were removed then you can stop and skip this step but if theres any chance that there are some left then it's best to use an insecticidal solution
Aberrant migration brings the larvae deep under the skin or in vital organs. Three options are available here:

• Injection of ivermectin
0.4mg/kg, SC (0.18 mg/lb, SC)

• Injection of doramectin
0.5 mg/kg, SC (0.23mg/lb, SC)

Ivermectin in laboratory studies works faster but both will work efficiently

***The rabbit must be closely monitored as the dying larvae excrete a toxin that can be fatal to animals.

• Surgical removal, under anesthesia, in case of aberrant migration or infection

Use of antibiotics is indicated, if the myiasis infection is severe. They help fight a secondary bacterial infection of the wounds and prevent sepsis, which can be fatal in rabbits.

The administration of non-steroidal pain medication is necessary (e.g. meloxicam, carprofen). Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS), such as aspirin, carprofen, flunixin meglumine, and meloxicam are able to decrease swelling and inflammation. The potency of different NSAIDS varies with each drug, dose and type of pain. Rabbits require high dosages of aspirin, but it can be a very effective analgesic. It can be administered at home, but should be used only under veterinary supervision. Caution should be exercised if NSAIDS are used for very long time periods because they may produce negative side effects in the gastrointestinal tract and the kidneys.

Rabbit Safe NSAIDS 〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Aspirin:
•100 mg/kg PO q12-24h
•100 mg/kg PO q12-24h
•20 mg/kg BW PO sid (equivalent to 600-mg dose in humans)
•100 mg/kg BW PO, try q4h
•400 ml/kg BW SC, PO sid
Do not give to dehydrated, hypovolaemic or hypotensive paties or those with GI disease. Do not give to pregnant animals or animals less than 6 weeks old.
〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Carprofen:
•2-4 mg/kg SC q24h or 1.5 mg/kg PO q24h
•2-4 mg/kg SC sid, 1.5 mg/kg PO bid
•1-5 mg/kg PO q12h or 2-4 mg/kg SC, IV q24h
•2-4 mg/kg SC q24h
•1.5 mg/kg PO
•1.5 mg/kg BW PO bid
Should not be given to dehydrated, hypovolaemic or hypotensive patients or those with GI disease or blood clotting abnormalities. Use with care for animals with renal disease. Do not give to pregnant animals or animals less than 6 weeks old
〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Flunixin Meglumine:
•Analgesia: 1.1 mg/kg SC bid
•Analgesia: 0.3-2.0 mg/kg once daily to q12h for no more than 3 days; PO, deep IM
•1.1 mg/kg BW SC, IM, try q12h

〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Meloxicam:
•0.3-0.6 mg/kg PO/SC sid-bid
•0.2-0.3 mg/kg SC, IM q24h or 0.2-0.5 mg/kg PO q12-24h
〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Depending on the severity and discomfort, an affected rabbit may stop eating and drinking. If this happens the rabbit shpuld be handfed and administered subcutaneous fluids to prevent dehydration as well as hepatic lipidosis which can be fatal.
Nutri-rescue can come in handy as it provides nutrients as well as pro/prebiotics.
If vet assistance is available they can prescribe a motility drug or an appetite stimulant to help in this situation.

Often though if the rabbit is heavily affected by myiasis, euthanasia should be considered. I understand for many terminal culling is a last resort but in severe cases it is the kindest option.

Now about BOTFLIES

Botflies are parasitic insects that seek out mammals to lay their eggs on. This can happen to any mammal basically. The larvae start small, burrow under the skin, eat and grow, repeatedly until they get huge. Typically you notice the breathing hole first. It looks like an abscess with a decent size hole in the middle of it. I've included a photo for reference. However sometimes a hole isnt visible. It can just look like a crusty lump or abscess.

To remove:
The best way I've found is to smother the hole in particular with petroleum jelly. If you can't see a hole, cover the whole lump with a thick layer. Regardless the larva is coming up somewhere to breath. The petroleum makes it difficult so they have to expose themselves to get air. When they come up you gently grab them with small forceps or tweezers and pull them out as carefully as possible. Do not crush them! Crushed they release a toxin. So it's important just to be gentle. After removal I use a syringe and a 50/50 peroxide mix to flush the abscess. Do this until no bubbles are present. Then flush twice with a saline solution. Apply original formula neosporin without pain relief. Do this daily.
If it looks infected you may need to give antibiotics. I also advise giving ivermectin too.

Pic for attention

***All content is based on my own experiences. I am a long time rabbit caregiver and breeder. I have a background in rabbit husbandry, study and research as well as being a hobby botanist. I use holistic treatments whenever possible on myself as well as my animals.
I am not a medical expert or a veterinarian. Any medical treatments is best discussed with your veterinarian before proceeding. It can be dangerous to treat symptoms without diagnostic tests. Understand that using my posts as medical advice is your own decision. Any treatment can cause side effects that may result in death. That goes for any thing.

05/31/2022

Urine Burn/Urine Scald

The ammonia in a rabbit's urine acts as a skin irritant, causing rashes or even red raw-looking skin. Prolonged exposure to any moisture can also trigger a urine burn.

Treatment steps:
The key to clearing urine burn up is constant maintenance. When you notice your rabbit's skin, most likely around their private area or bottom, become reddish and inflamed, begin treatments to soothe and condition the skin asap.

Clipping any urine-soaked and matted fur especially for those that have long fur is a necessary step to reduce further irritation except for fur on planter feet surfaces.

A butt bath is my recommended next step. No need to scrub. Just gently wash the area with your hand to help remove any urine or bacteria. Pat the area dry as much as possible. Finish up with a dryer if the rabbit will let you. You don't want to overstress the rabbit out.

Using Sudocrem to help in soothe the inflamed raw skin is a good next step and it acts as a barrier. This product also has antiseptic properties that reduce opportunity for infections.

Other creams to use include silver sulfadiazine cream such as Smith & Nephew, Flamazine cream, A&D original ointment, Neo-predef relieves inflammation and pain, Panalog, Heal-X, among others .

Petroleum jelly/Vaseline is also an option. Apply Vaseline on the affected skin to create a barrier over the skin to help prevent further scalding.

Consider a dry or wet butt bath. We have a good resource to guide on bathing your rabbit’s messy bottoms. Use a dryer if your bunny will allow you to do so to ensure the area is dry after bathing it.

In the case of inflamed skin, consider analgesics to reduce pain.

Antibiotics may also be recommended to prevent secondary infections.

OTC First Aid/Urine Burn/Skin Protectant options:

Neosporin Original (NOT PLUS)- topical ointment that fights infection and provides a barrier to the skin to allow for healing. It's best to use the ointment vs the cream 😉

Heal-X - topical ointment with excellent anti-inflammatory and antimicroial properties.

Sudocrem - topical cream for soothing inflamed skin and providing a barrier against irritants.

Corn starch can help when trying to remove
______________________________________________

Neo-predef - topical powder that is excellent for inflammation and helps to relieve pain. Rx required.

Silvadine - topical cream that is soothing and excellent as an antibiotic and great for minor cuts or dermatitis issues. Rx may be required. Similar may be available otc

A&D Original Ointment - topical ointment used to treat diaper rash and as a soothing skin protector (MUST BE ZINC FREE)

Neosporin Original (NOT PLUS)- topical ointment that fights infection and provides a barrier to the skin to allow for healing

Heal-X - topical ointment with excellent anti-inflammatory and antimicroial properties

Sudocrem - topical cream for soothing inflamed skin and providing a barrier against irritants

Panalog - topical ointment that acts as an antibiotic and fights itching and inflammation (aka sulfodene)

***While zinc oxide can be very helpful & fast acting it should never be used if there's a possibility of ingestion. And unless you're dealing with a severely disabled rabbit you should assume all others can reach the other.

Salve mix

Ingredients/Amounts
- Chloramphenicol : 1 gr
- Cod liver oil : 15 gr
- White vaseline : 60gr

Measure it and combine. Mix well. Refrigerate at least until set. You can store in the refrigerator or in a cabinet. Just not in hot areas.

Natural options:

Rescue Cream - made by Rescue Remedy, topical cream for treating skin conditions such as dry skin, urine burn and rashes

Calendula Cream - topical cream that uses organic ingredients to promote healing and hydration for a variety of skin conditions

Bag Balm - topical ointment that softens and heals dry, irritated skin while protecting it from further damage

We personally recommend Neo-predef and Silvadine if possible. Neo-predef adheres to even moist skin well and very quickly relieves inflammation. Apply Neo-predef or corn starch after every butt bath (which we usually do in the evenings so as to leave the powder to work overnight). Silvadene is great for soothing the skin and helping it to heal but any of the above mentioned ointments will help. Try putting a thin layer of A&D ointment over the top of the Silvadine to lock it in and to keep urine from scalding the skin.

***All content is based on my own experiences. I am a long time rabbit caregiver and breeder. I have a background in rabbit husbandry, study and research as well as being a hobby botanist. I use holistic treatments whenever possible on myself as well as my animals.
I am not a medical expert or a veterinarian. Any medical treatments is best discussed with your veterinarian before proceeding. It can be dangerous to treat symptoms without diagnostic tests. Understand that using my posts as medical advice is your own decision. Any treatment can cause side effects that may result in death. That goes for any thing.

RABBIT DIGESTIVE SYSTEM ANATOMY & FUNCTIONSBeing herbivores, specifically, folivores, rabbits depend on succulent green ...
05/27/2022

RABBIT DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
ANATOMY & FUNCTIONS

Being herbivores, specifically, folivores, rabbits depend on succulent green plants that are high in fiber. As with any other small animal, they have a higher metabolic rate. Also, their small size makes them sought for by most predators, and thus they need to be agile and outrun them. To survive, bunnies require high energy diets as foods with low energy will not sustain them.
For rabbits to be able to deal with these challenges, their digestion system is much evolved and better than gastric fermenters such as ruminants or colon fermenters such as horses. Here is how its digestive system is adapted:

It permits high food intake (consequently high protein and energy foods intake).

It sorts out fermentable and easily digestible foods. They have a hindgut fermentation

It removes slow fermentable foods fast to avoid carrying them around for a longer time.

To deal with the problem of requiring a high absorption surface area in their colons, it separates f***s from products for cecal fermentation. The latter often referred to as cecotropes are re-ingested and absorbed in the small intestines.

We have noted that they need to remove slow fermentable foods fast. This is achieved with the help of the availability of a lot of these indigestible fibers. Therefore, “lack of this fiber is the most common cause of gastrointestinal disturbance in the rabbit.” Lack of fiber can also cause GI stasis which can further complicate into intestinal stasis, impaction or cecal stasis.

Here are the main parts of a rabbit’s digestion system.

1. Oral Cavity
2. Esophagus
3. Stomach
4. Small intestines
5. Large intestines –
a. cecum
b. appendix

Oral cavity

The oral cavity helps in ingestion, chewing and produces some essential salivary secretions or enzymes that aid in digestion.

Ingestion

Wild rabbits they eat mainly succulent young shoots using their incisors that are chisel-like. Their highly mobile and prehensile lips (lips that have the ability to grip and maneuver items with them) have sensitive vibrissae that help in locating food. In captivity, their incisors are not used much since their diets are mainly hay, pellets, and greens/chopped vegetables.

Chewing

Once ingested, the premolars and molars will break down or grind the food to small pieces to enable swallowing. The cheek teeth are close to one another, and the continuous tooth to tooth and tooth to food attrition, together with coordinated jaw and tongue movement, break down the food into smaller pieces.
•••However, when ingesting cecotropes, they do not masticate them. They swallow them while they are intact.
Finally, since plant materials can be abrasive and coarse, and the grinding can wear their teeth out, their teeth are adapted to grow continuously. On the positive side, the plant material also helps to stop overgrown teeth.

Salivary secretions

They have four main salivary gland pairs, i.e., the mandibular, sublingual, zygomatic and parotid glands. The mandibular glands produce galactosidase and amylase.
Besides aiding in digestion, these secretions also help in moistening the food and allow easy swallowing.
However, unlike humans and ruminants, rabbits secrete a small amount of urea and lipase. Their saliva also has potassium and bicarbonate ions which are essential.

Esophagus

The esophagus really has no role in digestion, it just acts as a passageway that allows food to move from the mouth to the stomach.

Stomach

The stomach, which is pouch-like in appearance has thin walls and accounts for almost 15% of the GI tract volume. On the entrance to the stomach, there is a cardiac sphincter which stops true vomiting or reflux. The stomach has the cardia, fundus, and pyloric (has muscular and thicker walls) areas all with gastric glands.

The cardia region of a rabbit has a thin wall, is immobile and non-glandular. It is the bunny's movement as well as the colon's movement that makes food churning possible at this part.
A rabbit’s stomach is hardly empty even after a 24 hour fast it will be half full. If you were to open the stomach you would find a mass of food and some ingested fur or hair. Hairballs reduce gastric movement and are therefore unwanted. They can also cause a blockage if your furry friend swallows so much of the hair.
•••Grooming regular can reduce ingestion.
••••Bromelain & Papaya Enzyme tablets can help with breakdown of blockage materials.
The fundus secrets pepsinogen which is a precursor for pepsin and the parietal cells secrete hydrochloric acid that kills bacteria and creates a sterile condition while pepsin helps in protein breakdown. On the other hand, mucus is also secreted to help protect the stomach lining against the hydrochloric acid.

Preweaning rabbits

While still suckling, the gastric pH will be much higher, about 5 to 6.5 and the ingested milk becomes semi-solid while in the stomach and slowly passes to the ileum in about 23.5 hours. The rennin-like enzymes help the milk to curd.

The mother’s ‘milk oil’ or ‘stomach oil’ which is an antimicrobial fatty-acid helps combat bacterial activities. Also, the kits have a maternal antibody that is passive, and it is obtained via first milk and through the placenta. These two make GI to nearly in a sterile state.

Until they are ten days, kits depend on their mother’s milk. After that, they can be taking their mother’s cecotropes besides the milk. Cecotrophs have a mucous coating that keeps the bacterial intact until they pass to the stomach.

At day 20 they begin taking solid foods, and cecotrophy, and after 30 days, the milk intake usually reduces, their cecotrophy is now fully developed. After that, the ‘milk oil’ production decreases, and their gastric pH falls to 1-2.

During the weaning period, intestinal problems such as coliform infections, diarrhea from rotaviruses and mucoid enteropathy syndrome are common immediately after weaning.

Postweaning or adult rabbits

The pH is much lower, about 1-2 due to acid secreted from the fundic area. There is also a lot of water secretion. The pH destroys any microbial organisms, and the pepsin-hydrochloric complex begins the hydrolysis of proteins. Food takes about 3 to 6 hours to pass through the stomach.

However, cecotropes are not digested since as we mentioned, they do not get masticated in the mouth, and their mucinous coat protects cecal material from these low pH conditions for about 6-8 hours.

Since fermentation continues in the cecotropes, lactic acid is produced, and it will consequently reduce the pH of the stomach to about three due to the buffering effect of the lactate, a conjugate base of the lactic acid.

Small intestines

From the stomach, the digestion mixture often known as chyme or digesta enters the duodenum part of the small intestines via the pyloric sphincter. Much of the digestion and nutrients absorption occurs on this part of their gut.

The small intestines are divided into two sections, the duodenum, and ileum. At the beginning of the duodenum, there is the bile duct while towards its ascending area there is the pancreatic duct. There may be other minor pancreas duct opening into the ileum as some sources state.

The pancreas releases proteolytic enzymes including trypsin, carboxypeptidases, and chymotrypsin into the intestinal lumen and they work together with intestinal aminopeptidases to complete the digestion of proteins into peptides and amino acids.

Also, the pancreas produces various kinds of lipases that help in fatty acids and glycerol digestion. These lipases work with the help of bile enzymes. It also releases bicarbonate ions that will neutralize the hydrochloric acid in the chyme from the stomach.

Bile acids are drained into the duodenum immediately after pylorus via the cystic duct and the microbial activities convert it into deoxycholic acid. This bile acid helps in the breakdown of fats into small absorbable micelles. This also allows for the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins.

Not that bile also has Biliverdin which is from various products breakdown including hemoglobin.

Finally, there is also the amylolytic secretion enzymes which will play an important role in digesting some starches.

Small intestine motility

Motility is stimulated by the motilin secreted in the duodenum and jejunum, and the presence of fats in the intestinal content stimulates it while carbohydrates inhibit it. The macrolide antibiotics also play a role as motilin receptor agonists.

Motility is achieved through the help of various processes. The first one is the segmentation that occurs in duodenum involving the mixing of the different contents in the small intestines during a static constriction that arises on the intestinal walls.

The second process is peristalsis where there is a ring of contractions that occur along their length towards the colons. Gastrointestinal peptides and hormones aid in this movement. In the jejunum, they occur after 10-20 minutes while in the ileum after 30-60 minutes.

At the distal end of the ileum, on the upper side of the large intestines, there is the sacculus rotundus only found in lagomorphs. This is where most obstructions occur. There is an ‘ileocecal valve’ between sacculus rotundus and the ileum that stops the backflow of fluids into the ileum. The valve redirects the chyme into the cecum via sacculus rotundus.

Small intestine absorption

After the chyme is neutralized chyme by bicarbonates in the duodenum, most of the simple proteins and carbohydrates will have been digested in the duodenum and jejunum into monosaccharides and amino acids before they get absorbed on the jejunal brush border.

Cecotroph materials are also digested duodenum and jejunum (between duodenum and ileum) and absorbed at jejunal brush border. Some of the nutrients absorbed include vitamins, amino acids, digested microbial organisms, and volatile fatty acids.
The lysozyme added in the cecotropes aids as a digesta pass through the colon in the digesting cecotropes microbial proteins. The lysis that occurs and microbes in the cecotropes release enzymes including amylase which helps the rabbit with further starch digestion.

Finally, the rabbit’s ileum helps in recycling and regulating some of the electrolytes that the stomach secrets. This is achieved by bicarbonate ions reabsorption.

Large intestines

Large intestines comprise the cecum, appendix, and colon. Their cecum is proportionally more significant compared to that of any other mammal.

Cecum and appendix

The cecum is double the length of the abdominal cavity and accounts for about 40 to 60 percent of the GI tract. This blind sac or pouch has folded into four gyri with the first three having translucent walls while the final fold forms the vermiform appendix.

The cecum is located at the place where the small and large intestines meet, and this is where the rabbit sorts indigestible material with those that can be digested. The indigestible ones pass to the colon to form f***s.

The appendix secrets bicarbonate ion utilized in the cecal lumen to help in buffering volatile fatty acids. Rabbit’s whose diets have high fermentable low fiber carbohydrates tend to have a more massive appendix.

This larger appendix is due to the needed more secretions from the appendix to offset the various products formed due to increase fermentation of carbohydrates. The other explanation of why it is bigger than rabbits that do not have such diets is the more need for lymphoid tissue since such bunnies have altered populations of microorganisms.

To make the cecotropes soft, water, which is secreted from the colon and appendix is added to the cecal content, and some of it is absorbed across the wall of the cecal to make these contents consistent soft.

Inside the cecum, anaerobic fermentation places for various organisms including Bacteroides spp., and besides the food ingested, the mucosa goblet cells secrete mucopolysaccharides which act as a carbohydrate source for cecal fermentation. There are many other bacterial species, and nonpathogenic protozoa often found on the cecal content.

The various microbial flora breaks down ammonia, urea, enzymes, and proteins coming from small intestines as well as cellulose. They can metabolize pectin and olize xylan to give enzyme structures of these microorganisms as well as proteins, (which will later be digested as cecotropes) and volatile fatty acids ((VFAs) such as as formic, propionic, butyric and acetic acids.

Some nutrients including the VFAs are later be absorbed across the colon and cecal epithelium and used as a source of energy. However, some nutrients including some amino acids, vitamins as well as minerals are passed out as cecotropes.

On how fiber affects GI motility, an increase in fiber in bunny’s diets and fasting increases acetic acid which will alter the amount of butyric acid that inhibits peristalsis and hence you expect fiber to promote GI motility.

Colon and fusus coli

It has the ascending colon which is long, divided into various parts which have taeniae and haustra but the fusus coli (muscular thickening) has not haustra. At the end of this section, you will be able first to identify f***l pellets. After the ascending colon, you go into the transverse colon which is short and then finally to the descending colon.

However, it is the fusus coli that separates that colon into parts that have different physiological and anatomical parts, i.e., the proximal and distal colon. The fusus coli acts as a differential pacemaker for the start of peristaltic waves in these two parts of the large intestines (proximal and distal).

The fusus coli has other roles including regulating separation of large indigestible fiber from the fermentable ones via the contractions of the haustrae/ taeniae among many other functions. After the fusus coli, the distal colon and re**um become tubular and have a thicker wall.

The goblet cells in fusus generate mucus which is used to coat cecotropes and fusus does not expel most fluids from them (through mild contractions) making them remain soft whereas it removes most water from the f***l pellets making them dry through stronger contractions.
The distal colon absorbs water, electrolyte and volatile fatty acids forming f***l pellets while for cecotropes, it adds lysozyme.

Cecotrophy

Since most of the various nutrient’s absorption occurs in the small intestines, some of the nutrients formed during fermentation cannot adequately be absorbed. Instead, they will be released as cecotrophs which the bunny ingests to give the small intestines a chance to absorb these nutrients.

Cecotropes are not f***s although some sources call them ‘soft f***s’ and they are supposed to be ingested directly from the rabbit’s re**um, an act that is triggered by neurological licking and they are ingested without being chewed.

Cecotrophy often occurs eight hours after your rabbits and will be high when your furry friends eat foods that are high in nondigestible fiber.

Hard and soft f***s phases

One of the essential steps indigestion in large intestines is the cecal and colonic motility that allows a rabbit to separate contents it has into fermentable substrates and indigestible wastes.

Water secreted from the proximal colon plays a vital role in mixing and separating the intestinal content, and the fusus coli controls various types of contractions that separate the indigestible pellets with large indigestible fibers into f***s and digestible to cecotropes.
--written by Andreea Coleman

Images taken from Google

Address

Indianapolis, IN

Opening Hours

Monday 9am - 9pm
Tuesday 9am - 9pm
Wednesday 9am - 9pm
Thursday 9am - 9pm
Friday 9am - 9pm
Saturday 9am - 9pm
Sunday 9am - 9pm

Website

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Fatt Rabbit Farms posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact The Business

Send a message to Fatt Rabbit Farms:

Videos

Share

Category