Pegasus Valley NM

Pegasus Valley NM Find that missing piece in training program:) For the love of the horse.

Pegasus Valley NM Offers Classical Dressage training for all disciplines; teaching the horse and rider how to progress in a healthy manor, gearing towards relaxation and balance.

Simple gift idea šŸ™‚Place around your saddle horn, loop through a ring on your dressage saddle, or even in your horses man...
12/02/2024

Simple gift idea šŸ™‚
Place around your saddle horn, loop through a ring on your dressage saddle, or even in your horses mane or tail (or your own pony tail)
Symbolic ā€œluckyā€ charmā¤ļøšŸ«¶
I can make several different colors

Cleaning out the tack trunk again!:)Scoot boots , like new , SIZE 2. A bit snug for my guy.Brand new pro choice red bell...
12/01/2024

Cleaning out the tack trunk again!:)
Scoot boots , like new , SIZE 2. A bit snug for my guy.

Brand new pro choice red bell boots w tags

FOR SALE

Epic New Mexico sunset šŸ§”šŸ”„ā¤ļø no filter
11/13/2024

Epic New Mexico sunset šŸ§”šŸ”„ā¤ļø no filter

11/13/2024
Desert stroll
11/03/2024

Desert stroll

11/03/2024

11/03/2024

To find harmony with your horse, your focus needs to be on training for balance. There are many elements to this, which ...
09/27/2024

To find harmony with your horse, your focus needs to be on training for balance. There are many elements to this, which I have discussed in previous articles. There are many factors to consider before you just focus on the actual ridden work.

If in every discipline, the trainer was to focus on the art of training properly (Rhythm , balance, suppleness and straightness), rather than the techniques for achieving results, there would be many more happy, healthy horses and riders in the world.

Understanding the horseā€™s anatomy and natural way of going is absolutely necessary to begin trying to train for balance. For the horse to stay physically and mentally sound, we need to train the horseā€™s body to move in such a way that it can find balance and rhythm with a rider, without damaging itself in the process.

The first focus needs to be on helping the horse get fit. This process can either benefit or damage the horse, so understanding what exercises are appropriate for each horse needs to be understood. Getting a horse fit has many avenues and there are many factors (which I briefly went over in our previous articles). Age, breed type, health and soundness are the major factors. Then understanding how to train specific muscles and what workouts are appropriate for each situation needs to be understood.

We also need to begin creating a dialogue for proper communication. If the horse doesnā€™t understand what we are asking, or if we do not know HOW to ask or what answersā€ to look for; then a proper dialogue for training can never be established and this will result in a very frustrated horse and rider/trainer.

How do we introduce a dialogue & what does this mean?
If I merely put a rope on my horse and tried to send him/her around to exercise, how can I expect to control the horse? If I can not teach the horse what it is I am asking it to do, and If I can not understand what the horse is trying to communicate to meā€¦. then there can never be harmony or genuine confidence of what is being asked. So, if I flap around or threaten the horseā€¦.it moves forward, and then, if I tug or pull on his/her faceā€¦it stops? Why should this be a base for communication? A good trainer needs to figure out how to create some sort of two-way communication. As a good trainer, you also need to consider general instincts and the horseā€™s natural way of communication: proper communication needs to provide clarity, structure, and confidence.

So, for example, If I am teaching a horse how to move away from me, I need to think of what my ultimate goal for that command would be. This command needs to be consistent. (if I were teaching English to someone who doesnā€™t speak the language, the word HAPPY should always remain the word HAPPY. I cannot go back and tell that person the word happy now is frolic or any other wordā€¦happy is the word happy.)

When training a horse, we are essentially teaching a language that the horse can understand, and In return we need to try and understand what the horse is telling us.

If I am teaching the horse to move away from me in any certain direction; I first think of how I want the command to be. If it is a word, a cluck, a motion, or touch? If I am working the horse on a line and I want it to move away I will FIRST do the command that I ultimately want to be the final cue. I call this a pre cueā€. Then I have an ā€œenforcer cueā€. This would be the secondary action that follows the pre cue that helps the horse understand what it is I want him/her to do. So, If Iā€™m asking my horse to move forward/away; my pre cue would be to lean in the direction AWAY from where Iā€™m sending the horse, then usually followed by a verbal cue. Always in that order. Then If the horse does not understand or give me a response, then the secondary cue is given; but, in this sequence. I ask again with the ā€œpre cueā€, then immediately follow that with a more dramatic motion to move. Timing is key and understanding how much energy is needed takes skill.

Unfortunately, the more dramatic motion is usually where a rider starts: so, kick for go, or whip for go or any other enforcer commandā€¦which eventually desensitizes the horse from the command because it is offensive and or uncomfortable. My enforcer command can be anything from making a bigger motion with my body to whapping the ground or touching the horse. NEVER EVER USING REPEATED FORCE. This only encourages fear and puts the horse in a defense mode instead of a learning mode. I use as much ā€œforceā€ as necessary for the situation which never involves pain to the horseā€™s body. So, if I have a sensitive horse, usually a slap of the ground or noise from the whip is enough to relay ā€œmove nowā€. If I have a more stoic or desensitized horse, I may need to get creative in moving the feet. so, a flag might work better. But You must always keep in mind, If a secondary command doesnā€™t get a positive response, extra force isnā€™t the answerā€¦ taking a step back and figuring out where the communication was lost needs to happen first. This takes Practice and skill.

Creating a dialogue is tedious and takes just as much patience from the trainer/rider as it does from the horse. Figuring out what works best to relay your messages and listening to the horseā€™s answer IS TRAINING.

Getting the horse in shape should include many hours of in hand work and line work before the horse is expected to know how to interpret commands and execute them under saddle.

So here is a basic description of the work I do when starting a horse/Restarting a horse:

Relationship build, while I created the strength and dialogue FROM THE GROUND FIRST. Use ridden time as a period of ā€œmetal down timeā€ and light fitness work. So ā€œgym timeā€ can be long line work, lunge work, ground driving and work in hand to build the beginning pieces for your ridden conversation and build strength. Then rides out or rides only covering basic transitions for fitness. I build on this gradually, as I notice a horse beginning to understand what I am asking from the ground, showing strength and balance without the rider and confidence with the commands, then I can add little periods of a specific command to my rides. Drilling a horse is never good for the mind or body. Know how much to push and when to back off and rest. Your horse will always communicate this. Know the difference between a freshā€ horse being silly, and a scared or stressed-out horse. Generally, a fresh horse will exhibit silly behavior during random times for very different reasons (horses are horses), But a horse showing defensive behaviors that become a habitā€¦this is a signal that your horse has been trying to communicate stress, anxiety or discomfort and this needs to be sorted out before moving on with work. Iā€™ve heard many trainers say, ā€œwell this horse is just difficult, or this horse is just high spirited or whateverā€¦.ā€ But I know for a fact, horses displaying bad habits or dangerous behavior habitually are horses that are trying to communicate their anxiety. I have worked with (I currently own) horses with EXTREMLY strong personalities, and while this can make training a bit more challenging, there is never a point where my horse needs to be defensive or stressed out. If I notice this happening, I take a step back and figure out where it began and why. (Typically, it is discomfort or confusion in what was being asked.)

Some more examples of creating dialogue and teaching balance: Here are some basic cues that need to be taught. How to ask, and what to look for as a response from your horse.

To teach your horse how to balance, they must build the correct muscles, but they also need to understand how to place their bodies where we ask. We can begin teaching these commands from the ground before we expect them to execute the movements with a rider. Many trainers believe this can be done entirely from the saddle. It can. But during that process while the horse is trying to learn what it is you are asking there will be many periods of resistance and in order to regain control or try and get the horse to execute the command being asked you are accidentally having to use more force than necessary to keep the horse in balance with you on its back all the while trying to get it to respond to the command you gave it initially. Why not break this up into more training segments that lessen the chance of the horse misunderstanding and building resistance, or even injuring themselves or the rider?

To help you visualize what it means to help your horse balance; imagine someone on your shoulders, if they lean forward, you either need to lean forward to catch themā€¦or you dip back, and they fall. Imagine how it feels every time they move from side to side and what you would need to do to keep them in balance with you? Or imagine walking with a bowl of water, what kind of movements would cause the water to splash out, how would you stabilize the water as you move?

The horse needs to be able to use its neck for balance, have mobility in its jaw/mouth so it can breathe and release tension, and learn to elevate its posture so it can better carry a rider and create impulsion. Regardless of discipline, if a horse isnā€™t properly taught this posture, it will deteriorate its body in an effort to try and balance a rider and execute the movements being asked.

Because horses have four legs, and generally travel with front legs moving and then hind legs pushing, we must improve this motion and try and teach the horse to step under ā€œitself and create a cycle of energy that is relaxed yet powerful. Elevating the thoracic sling, using its core and providing a ā€œcushionā€ between the rider and the horse back while also being able to travel in and out of transitions with ease. ā€œWhen it has to carry a rider an untrained horse will overload its forelegs and will very soon damage them if it is not educated to redistribute the weight more equally .ā€

I think of the horse like an ant, with segments. I need to try and teach the horse to get straight/ upright, but I have segments that I need to align. The higher the poll, the lower the haunches and the horse should collect more. The more open and level the poll is, should also open the stride. This requires proper strength and a correct series of commands to help the horse learn how to do this without force or resistance.

To help a horse find this posture itā€™s important to teach proper gymnastic steps. Learning these positions will create ease of handling in every movement being asked for later in training. Lateral movements, transitions and release & flexion exercises are the first steps to creating balance.

When starting to create a dialogue for these movements, you first need to imagine the side of your horse having ā€œbuttonsā€. Each button can help direct the feet or body to move in a direction. When teaching these buttons understand that eventually these buttons will become a secondary command, and that, the use of these buttons needs to always mean the same thing. So. if I touch by the girth, I wish the horse to move the front end of the body, if I touch slightly behind the girth I wish to move the rib cage, and if I touch further back, I with to move the hind end. The leg will eventually be the ā€œthe toolā€ for this secondary command under saddle. The hand or whip can be the toolā€ from the ground.

On the topic of the whip: Iā€™m going to go off on a tangent and say there is a lot of stigma behind the use of the whip. Personally, I say ANY TOOL CAN hurt your horse! Your tack or your aids. Common sense needs to be applied to everything we do. I use the whip in exactly the way I would use my sense of touch. I DO NOT WHIP a horse; I do not ever use the whip as a devise for punishment! It is a tool to touch. Even when I train tricks; I was taught to tap tap tapā€¦this is annoying and unnecessary. I DO touch, or tap depending on the situation, enough to get the response. But this should never be a repeated motion and should never be used with excess force. If I do not get a response I need to think of a better way!!! This is the art of learning how to do what is right. A dressage whip or long whip can be used to reach places that our legs or hands cannot while we are trying to build a library of commands to the horse. If I touch a certain spot, it should mean a ā€œwordā€/ command for a certain motion. We DO NOT USE THE WHIP TO HARM THE HORSE. If any tool needs excessive use, proper training has NOT been done. Same thing with a lunge whip; if I need more action, Iā€™ll take the whip to the ground or lash the whip and make noise. Slap the ground or add a flag if I need more energy. I do not use the whip to punish the horse. Itā€™s a directional tool. When I lunge a horse and I need an extra step I might flicker his tail or touch his leg, we do not whip the horse. And Iā€™m going to repeatā€¦If use of the whip is needed repeatedly, there is a miscommunication in training.

Back to, creating a dialogue to help the horse balance: ā€œButtonsā€ is a lose term for aids or commands. When we are trying to teach balance, we need to structure a library of proper aids to help the horse understand how want him/her to place their feet and body and move in ā€œhorizontal equilibriumā€ that is, with weight equally distributed over the fore and hind limbs.. This dialogue begins with MANY small questions to the horse, what our job is to create the questionā€ which is to be the aid, then condition the response so that the horse understands what it is we are asking him to do. The problem with most riders is they donā€™t understand the intricacy of the process and typically just see a basic picture. ā€œā€ I want my horse to gallop. I kick horse. Horse must gallop. Keep doing thatā€¦. The endā€ā€. Do you know what kind of balance it takes for the horse to gallop with a rider, at the tempo the rider asks and in the direction the rider is asking? If all you ever did was kick for goā€¦.that doesnā€™t feel good, eventually the horse braces and tries to defendā€ its body against the pounding, so instead of becoming lighter to the aidsā€¦the horse learns to resist aids (aka every lesson horse on the planetšŸ˜‰) If that horse is just learning to gallopā€¦being kicked is no fun, first off, then as the horse tries to ā€œrun away ā€œ from that feeling you then have to try and balance yourself on that motion which usually ends up in the horseā€™s mouth ā˜¹ then the horse is confused as to why you kicked him to move and pulled him to stop?? Or go...? What did you mean!? And if there is not a dialogue for direction or balanceā€¦. its just a series of this horrible confusing forceā€¦until the horse figures out what you want at some point and is just trying its best not to get kicked or pulled more. During this process, the horse becomes desensitized, unconfident in the conversation you both are having AND the body goes through far more stress and strain during the process of trying to figure out what it is you are trying to ā€œteachā€ it. All of this can be avoided if the proper steps in training are followed; analyzing the situation (horses breed, age type, temperament, health and level of training), getting a horse fit using proper techniques, creating a library of commands that help the horse understand what it is you are asking it do, and focusing on the answers your horse gives to the questions you ask, to help build a proper conversation in training for balance, rhythm and control. Training yourself, to know how to do all this. #1

Creating balance takes a series of commands that help your horse know how to place its feet and body. Because the horse is an ā€œantā€ so to speak, we need to show the horse where to place the feet, where to hold the body and where to keep the poll and nose; all while, trying to relax and create energy. That is A LOT of conversation happening!!

Ill go back to our threeā€ basic buttonsā€, on the body of the horse. If I am working in hand a great way to teach the horse balance is through the use of gymnastic positions. Shoulder in, renvers, and haunches in are a few of the first gymnastic movements I teach the horse.

The half halt, release and flexion are the other most important first commands to teach. Without the understanding of any of these, we cannot piece together balance. This is why I believe ā€œdressageā€ should be for every discipline. If any horse; western, jumper, dressage, or pleasure horse understands how to balance and move through its paces with confidence in the conversation and strength in their bodies, they all can do so beautifully without the use of force and gadgets, and have very long happy healthy careers!

When I go about teaching the movements in hand, the horse needs to understand the aids: each one of these aids can be compartmentalized and taught clearly so the horse can piece together full conversations later.

What does it mean when:

ā€¢ (question) I make contact with the bit/ mouth? (desired answer) chew, swallow, mobilize the mouth
ā€¢ (question) make contact and elevate the poll (desired answer) take the contact, lower the haunches, elevate the chest/front end
ā€¢ (question) If I cluck (desired answer) movement of the feet. Motion
ā€¢ (question) touch by the shoulder (desired answer) elevate that shoulder or move that foreleg forward
ā€¢ (question) touch low on the haunch (desired answer) bring that hindleg forward
ā€¢ (question) touch behind the girth (desired answer) move the hind end over. this will eventually be asked from the seat. But from the ground we begin teaching this command with use of that ā€œbuttonā€
ā€¢ I also want the horse to understand that when I open the rein to one side, that door is open, and his nose can follow that direction. If I hold the opposite rein close to the horse, I want that door to be closed or offer a motion to move away from that feel. This can also lead to flexion exercises, release exercises, and intro duction of the half halt. These are all done with tactful use of the hand and trying to create whatā€™s almost like sign language to the mouth/poll/ nose of the horse. Making sure the horse understands it can take the bit and chew is absolutely necessary. Focusing on the ears being level and the skull not tilted is also a focus in this lesson.
Those are very basic commands that need to be fully understood. The next steps involve combining those aids with others to create a movement. If the horse does not understand these basic aids, then there will be confusion when trying to add steps to the conversation. In later articles I will break these training movements down even further to help you understand what to do, what to feel, what to watch for and what results to expect. I also feel it is very difficult to explain, without actually seeing and doing. I will try my best to describe the process.

So, if the horse understands what those first commands are we can then add those aids to movement and create a conversation. For example:

Shoulder in: I would ask for ā€œgoā€, I would then ask for the shoulder to move over and the inside hind active. the hands would communicate the direction of the nose, poll and shoulder and then I would need to make sure there was a release of tension. When you look at it this way, do you see now how many conversations youā€™re having with different areas of the horseā€™s body?? Which eventually I would love to be able to motion slightly and the horse understand my conversation and answer with the correct movement.

The gymnastics positions need to be taught to build strength in the areas that the horse uses to create balance. These movements need to be taught correctly or else they encourage the opposite of straightness and balance. The beginning blocks of creating strength and balance are steps to creating a conversation so that the horse understands where to place its body. If we only use force to place, push and hold the horseā€¦the horse wild mentally and physically deteriorate.

Every lesson we teach early on in training needs to be completed so that the horse is fit and confident enough to go to the next step. All too many times humans rush this process. An extremely talented horse may seem alright at first, but eventually will hit a wall or become injured. The importance of understanding what balance is and how to train for it is necessary for every rider. Every touch or motion we have as a rider is a way of communication to the horse. For us to understand each other, training in dialogue is needed. If we only tell the horse what to do and try and ā€œconditionā€ that response, without ever learning to listen to the horseā€™s answer we can never truly find harmony in our rides.

ā€œON THE BITā€ On the bit, I personally feel like this topic alone has created a ā€œmonsterā€ in horse training. Various tool...
09/27/2024

ā€œON THE BITā€

On the bit, I personally feel like this topic alone has created a ā€œmonsterā€ in horse training. Various tools, gadgets and tack to ā€œassistā€ in creating this image. There is a terrible misunderstanding of what ā€œOn the bitā€ means and what the importance of real contact is. I would like to discuss my findings on this topic.

I want to start off first by saying, riders need to understand the importance of the hand/rein aid. Some trainers believe it best to not put a bit in a horseā€™s mouth at all; and, while Iā€™m still studying to try and figure out what may ultimately be the best, I have found so farā€¦that starting a horse completely without the bit, has more negative than positive results. The use of a bosal, or halter while the horse is still learning to balance can create more pain and misunderstanding. The nose of the horse is very sensitive and rawhide or stiff knots easily bruise the face. If not used in the correct hands, both tools can be equally as destructive as a metal bit in the mouth. Especially while a green horse is still learning to understand directional aids, rhythm and balance.
Proper training with the bit gives the rider direct communication with the horse in a way that can almost be like sign language. A good rider can communicate with the horse through the reins almost as a musician can through their instrument. In the early stages of training its absolutely necessary to begin very careful communication though the rein aids; communication of where to place the hind end and shoulders. When to release tension. We can even assist in balanceā€¦..all this IS ABSOLTLY NOT DONE WITH THE HAND ALONE. The hand is an important collaboration of the seat and leg and when used properly can create a horse nearly independent of the aids all together.

Sadly, I have restarted horses who have been said to reach Grand prix levels or ultimate reining achievements; these horses have been so absolutely RUINED, traumatized in the face because there was a serious misunderstanding of how to actually train dialogue. The use of force through the hand, force in all the aids, and the use of gadgets/tack to ā€œshortenā€ training only results in trauma and permanent damage. A horse who has become defensive in the mouth is the nearly unrepairable. Most tend to be broken over, come behind, always defensive/worried and can never truly understand the intricate dialogue from the hand ever again.

I feel riders are not being taught the importance of the proper use of aids. KICK for GO. PULL for WHOA seems to be a basic use of aidsā€¦. which is quite primitive. Then, even more advanced trainers seem to think maximum use of restraint and forward aids creates a ā€œroundā€ submissive horseā€¦. This is also archaic and completely ignorant.

The horse is extremely sensitive, and only becomes desensitized when it feels the need to defend itself from pain or discomfort.

A ā€œheavyā€ horse is a horse who does not understand how to balance or was never taught how. A horse that comes behind the bit, also has not been taught how to balance or understand proper use of aids. Horses with extreme habits like pulling, gapping open the mouth, pushing out the tongue and on goes the list; have created these habits in a failed attempt at trying to relieve pain and stress from improper training.
Harsh bits used to ā€œcontrolā€ the horseā€¦. IS NOT TRAINING!
The use of a hackamore isnā€™t any relief to a horse either. Rope halters, bosals and bitless bridles can damage the face as easily as a bit in the wrong hands.

The remedy for all this, is understanding what it really means to be ā€œon the bitā€. Learning to understand how our use of aids needs to be carefully prepared. The horseā€™s shape reflects its balance and confirmation. For a horse to find rhythm and balance, it needs to be able to use its body in a way it can be powerful and supple. Inappropriate use of the reins only causes the horse to contort the body and move with tension. Moving ā€œon the bit ā€œmeans the horse has been trained to understand how to ā€œtake contactā€. It must understand the aids from the seat and leg to move the feet and body into a position of balance that places the head appropriately for whatever movement the horse is performing. The hands are a sophisticated language that reminds the horse the level of the pole placement, the direction of the nose, and the axes of the haunchesā€¦ itā€™s a two-way conversation. The hand is NOT MEANT to carryā€, restrain, force or hold the horse in any position. The hand is used to ask a question, remind the horse of that position or quickly assist with a full conversation of other aids to help the horse become supple and obedient to the conversation. The hands are used in coordination with proper aids from the seat and legs (and other) to help the horse understand what it is being asked to doā€¦it should not TELL THE HORSE WHAT TO DO OR FORCE THE HORSE INTO ANY POSITION OR SPEED. To me, this is the difference between the genuine Art of training for harmony, or just riding the horse like itā€™s a machine.

Good connection comes from knowledgeable training. Starting early in a horses training, the horse must be taught that the bit/reins are merely a form of communication they can trust. Each signal needs to be thoughtful. The bit can be extremely helpful in creating a dialogue to the horse that cycles through every aid. Seat to legs to hands to horse. The rein aids need to be taught in a way that helps the horse and does not hinder.
The feeling I have when I use the reins is consistent and elastic if Iā€™m in the middle of a conversationā€ with the horse, the only time I fully release the rein with absolutely no connection whatso ever if when my horse and I are out exploring in a safe environment and Iā€™m just allowing him the freedom to be.

TRAINING FOR CONNECTION starts with good over all training of the rider. Timing, feel and understanding of everything you are asking your horse to do and how you are asking for it are absolutely necessary to create a supple, soft and ā€œlightā€ horse. When the horse is fit, confident and obedient to ALL of your aids, then the connection with the bit is genuine. Being a good trainer creates a soft, supple and obedient horse.
The first few lessons given to a horse who is starting to accept the bit requires us to teach the horse that it should not fear the metal in its mouth. It can chew, swallow and mobilize the mouth. The rider needs to teach the horse that each signal from the rein is a form of communication to the body. Regardless of rein length, if the body is well trained to the aids, the horse will be connected and light in the hand. No form of fear can create this properly.
If I am early in a horses training, the ā€œconversation is minimal: I teach the horse where to place the body and the nose and the poll. I teach the horse the boundaries of the connection and the understanding that my aids from my seat and legs will direct the body and feet and my hands will help put the boundaries for the cycle of energy. Like a piano, I feel the horse, I donā€™t hold the horse, fiddle with the bit or forcefully direct. Careful progression of poll placement helps the horse to understand how the connection between the aids for the body generate to the hand and cycle back to balance. As the horse progresses in training, I can ask for more elevation of the poll without tension, I know when the horseā€™s body responds in supple balance, that the communication between my aids for the body and aids to the mouth are being understood.
Gymnastic exercises help the body to strengthen and supple and gentle conversations from the hand help the horse learn to trust that aid and understand the conversation without tension.

Training the horse to release and take the bit are very important, consistent conversation throughout training that needs to be done. Once a horse learns to fear the bit/ hand, it is an almost impossible mistake to correct.
Flexion exercises can be started in hand from the ground and then progressed under saddle.
Teaching the half halt is important so that the horse understands how to place its hip. If the horse doesnā€™t understand the release and flexion exercises, then you can accidentally damage the mouth when teaching the half halt.

The rider needs to be taught how to FEEL and what TIMING means, when training a dialogue to the horse. A well-trained horse understands the weight of the seat, to the touch of the legs and the touch of the hand to the bit. THAT is the art of training. Compartmentalizing it so the rider understands how to ask for specific movements from the horse, how to sit the movement without force or hinderance, and creating balance can only truly be done when the rider has a clear understanding of what connection should feel like.

On a bend, the whole sequence of aids help create a ā€œtrueā€ soft bend, the hand helping to keep the horse within the boundaries of the reins and boundaries of the tempo. I donā€™t allow my horse to lean, if he does, I know he has lost balance or connection somewhere within the movement and I donā€™t punish the horse with harsh aids, I will figure out the point of miscommunication and clarify.
On a bend, the outside rein can provide support, and my inside rein can help elevate the shoulder and direct the hind end. I should merely feel this with my fingers and never carry the horse through the motion. The conversation is like playing the piano. I will say this again. Sign language to the mouth, to relay to the body.
Straightness and rhythm are not taught by a holding hand and forceful seat, Its an active sequence of correct aids. If the horse becomes tense or heavy, the hand is not a tool for punishment or correction, The rider needs to understand how to synchronize and FEEL the correct use of all the aids in order to achieve straightness without tension, and with the horse in self-carriage.

While I believe the ultimate sign of an independent seat is the ability to perform any movement with the reins in a single hand with no restraint to the horseā€™s mouth/neck position. This does not mean drop all connectionā€¦the conversation line would be lostā€¦. but a horse in peak condition, confident and supple, should be able to perform with absolute minimal interference from the rider.

CONVERSATION ON TACK: Its important for the rider to understand the affect on the horse from the tack that is being used. This subject offers a wide variety of opinions, and I am still in a deep learning progress with this specific subject.
Classical training shows all the horses in a lose ring bit and progressed to a double bridle. I absolutely understand the use of the curb and the snaffle, and in proper hands can be tremendously helpful in perfecting all the movements of Dressage. But personally, I feel it is probably extremely agitating and uncomfortable to have so much metal in the mouthā€¦. therefor I do not currently train any of my horses in a double bridle. (I have used practically every style bridle/bit/bosal, And I have seen the effects on the horse. This is where I have gathered the most information on what I feel is best. Each horse varies as well as, each training situation)
I still have different opinions on the various styles of snaffle bits, but from my experience, I feel a well-made three-piece snaffle, well balance ā€œwestern dā€ or English egg butt seems to work very well with gentle communication.I feel this provides even pressure on the lips and comfortable balance on the tongue. There are many different brands and styles that offer different levels of comfort in the mouth.
I am unsure if loose ring snaffles have too much mobility in the ring, pinch or have even gentle pressure on the lips of the horse, therefore I do not use a loose ring.
My Personal preference is a bridle that offers the use of the bit and side rings so I can direct the nose and energy without the use of the bit (as the horse progresses) but I still have the bit to communicate with.
If a horse is well trained to the seat and leg aids, and understands proper connection, I will use a curb combined with the side rings. The rider needs to understand the effects of the curb, and the horse needs to be confident with the seat and leg aids and fairly well along with its self-carriage. A curb provides the opportunity to have minimal contact with the mouth, and better communication to the neck and haunches. The curb strap should be properly fit so that it does not hurt the horse but that it functions the way it is meant to as far as the length of the shank is concerned. A straight mouthpiece should not be used until the horse understands the feeling of the curb strap and is obedient to the seat and leg aids. A snaffle/curb with smaller shanks can help provide enough
The rider needs to help introduce more ā€œelevationā€ into the training conversation but can still provide individual communication to each side of the mouth if needed.
The rider needs to provide a bridle that fits the horse and understand the effects of each style of bit to the mouth and lips of the horse.
The browband should offer plenty of room so that it does not pull the crown of the bridle forward and push behind the horseā€™s ears. An uncomfortable bridle will lead to a tense horse.
If the rider is using a combined bridle (like I use) I fasten the nose piece enough that there is not a ton of play, but the horse could easily swallow a sweet treat and mobilize its mouth. The subject of the nose band or Cavesson on the bridle is also subjective. I personally feel a cavesson is helpful when teaching a young horse how to mobilize the mouth and understand early commands from the bit. If properly fastened, it should provide enough support that the horse cannot get the tongue over the bit, but the horse can still mobilize the mouth and jaw as needed for relaxation. I have many beautiful bridles I keep the cavesson on, because they are pretty, but I fasten them so loosely I can fit several fingers through (on my more finished horses), and in most cases I do not use a cavesson at all unless it is combined with my bit/nose ring bridles. The cavesson should never be so tight that a horse can not mobilize the mouth and relax at the poll. This can go into deep discussion, but common sense needs to be applied.
Same with the types of bits being used. If the bit looks like abstract artā€¦. then itā€™s extremely unnecessary!! A properly fit curb can help communicate with the horse in a very different way than the snaffle, and in the right hands be used in a whole different conversation to the horse. But genuinely I feel that a horseā€™s position can be influenced more by proper steps taken in training than any bit or bridle type. The bit and bridle are needed to help create the conversation but do not MAKE the conversation. In the right hands these tools can be useful and in the wrong hands, any aid or tool can be horrible. This really does go back to the fact that everything we do to ride the horse is unnatural, and in order to create some sort of harmony we have to have a great deal of knowledge on the subject, understanding of the effects and the desire to create harmony.

To finalize the subject of ā€œon the bitā€
Riders need to be taught that connection is a direct result of good training. Ther are no short cuts. A rider who needs to use force or restraint to achieve any movement has not properly trained themselves or their horse. The use of tack or gadgets to achieve a position, are all destructive tools and do not ever produce genuine results. True connection is a horse that is fit, and well trained to the aids. Confident, supple and obedient to the conversation happening between horse and rider.
A horse must be properly trained to properly be ā€œon the bitā€. This term is somewhat incorrect, because the goal of a rider should not be ā€œON THE BITā€ But to have good connection. A confident well-trained horse can move in a beautiful position without force or restraint from the rider., Self-carriage and an independent seat from the rider are all effects of a well-trained horse. This takes proper communication and connection to the bit. A rider needs to take responsibility to understand proper training, use of aids, feel and timing to achieve connection.

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