11/06/2024
COLD WEATHER AND LIVESTOCK
When temperatures are below freezing, it is very important to ensure livestock have adequate food and water. Tank heaters are recommended; breaking the ice twice a day is also adequate. All water tanks, especially plastic tanks, should have a grounding wire separate from the electrical heater cord to prevent electrical shock from faulty wires. This grounding wire is recommended even if you have ground fault interrupter (GFI) receptacles. Impactions will occur when the access or amount of free water is restricted to livestock. As little as 6-10 volts of stray electrical current will keep an animal from drinking water. Most of these water heaters which have a thermostat to keep the water at approximately 45 degrees. With goats and other chewing animals the cords should be protected by a pipe. Purchasing a larger electrical conduit, placing the cord into the conduit and then heat/bending this thin wall pipe around a tree to provide adequate chewing protection. First drill a hole in the top of the conduit/pipe to prevent a siphoning action and purchase the commercial plastic protectors for the end of the pipe. There also are commercially available protectors and brackets for the wires, or a reinforced flexible spa hose/suction hose with also work (with a hold drilled in the top in a few areas if the hose is going into the tank water. Drilling is not needed if the hose for an electrical cord going into the bottom of the tank). If purchasing a new electrical tank heater inquire about the ones which replace the drain plug, which we prefer to see over the floating heaters. If testing the water for a possible electrical shortage always use the back of your hand. We have more info on impactions and testing for micro-voltage leaks if there is a concern. To prevent birds, squirrels and other small animals from drowning in the stock tank place an unpainted board in the tank, such as a 4-6" width in size. Besides a board a round rubber ball and/or quart size bottle with salt or concentrated sugar water may help provide an area for open water if there is ice. To prevent animals from falling into and/or getting into a stock tank > 4”in width or diameter consider two posts on each side and a vertical 2”x-10” board a foot or so about the water level; can also make a V shape if a 10’+ size tank. If you have to haul water for your livestock, figure at least 1 gallon of drinking water per 100 # body weight a day; in cold weather there may be a little less volume needed. If you have a large water tanks where a cow or calf can be tipped/fall into such a tank you should place 4”+ metal bars across the tank (or better yet the vertical 2”x6” board or larger boards) to prevent this problem. If birds and squirrels are a problem then a floating board helps to prevent these animals from dying in the tanks. Adult livestock, small ruminants, outdoor rabbits and most adult poultry do not need heat lamps if they are healthy; all they need is to be off the frozen ground and out of the wind and rain, plus having available water and food daily. If the temperature drops and the young animals, poultry etc get a little dehydrated due to frozen water this is when we see frostbite occurring. We have a separate handout on frostbite in animals and also poultry. If you want a heat lamp for your poultry look at the 110v, 15 amp thermostatic units such as EASYHEAT EH 38 sold for roof heating cables and/or a quality, 3 prong timer also may be considered to use with the heat lamp for adult birds. Baby chicks need a constant heat source. We also have handouts available to help prevent hay stack fires available on our website. To prevent electrical fires in the winter in areas where you have heating lamps for poultry and small livestock ask for our handout regarding Health Preventative Methods. If you do not have a GFI outlet and you are concerned, there are extension cords with built-in GFI breakers. Shock Shield is such an example for 15 amp, and if a higher amperage is needed a local electrician can make up a GFI cord for you. If using a GFI breaker on a heating unit some of the larger hot water stock tank heaters will trip the breakers and cannot be on a GFI; always check at least once a day for frozen water.
Just because the weather is colder does not indicate adding more grain to the diet. When more grain is added to a diet there is a higher chance of colics, grain overloads and acidosis problems. When the temperature drops to below zero, livestock will need 10% more feed to counteract the cold weather. If the mature animal has enough body fat, the extra feed is not always indicated. It is important to ensure they can get to the feed and/or have adequate bunk space. An old theory of feeding corn to heat up the animal is not correct. All grains and hays will create heat when they are fermented by herbivore livestock. Corn is a hotter component of the diet because it ferments quicker than oats or barley. A quicker fermenting feed causes more problems if it is overfed. Doubling the amount of grain an animal is accustomed to will more than quadruple the possible problems which can develop. Corn contains twice the amount of energy as oats, yet cracked corn still can be fed if at a reasonable rate. If in doubt and you want to feed something extra to your horse then feed corn oil with oats or a presoaked beet pulp. Although up to 10 # of ground corn can be fed to a horse daily, we prefer to see 1/4 to 1/2 this amount fed as a maximum. Never feed whole corn to horses. By feeding 1/4 cup of oil to the diet you will be adding a safer form of energy than a grain, if you feel that extra energy is needed. We recommend more hay when the weather is colder. Hay is a safer component of a herbivores' diet, and especially try to keep the grain percentage below 1/3 of the diet. Feed hay at a rate of 20 #/1000 # animal, or up to 2.5 #/100 # body weight.
If ruminants are on a sudan pasture in the fall (Johnson grass, sorghum, etc) the conditions for cyanide and/or nitrate poisoning can occur if there is wet weather followed by a freeze. We do not recommend horses be fed sudan hay, also called oat hay. If the urine appears to be red, this can be a urinary infection or porphyinuria. Rabbits, rodents and some herbivores can have their porphyrins in the urine turn red after exposure to the sun. We recommend you collect urine, if it appears red or bloody, and bring it into the veterinary clinic.
When an animal is shivering you need to take their re**al temperature, especially if they look depressed. Muscles shiver from nervousness or cold, usually as a result of a body temperature of 97 degrees or less. Livestock can have a normal temperature from 98 to 101 degrees. If the temperature is less than 98 degrees this can be normal for a horse, yet this horse should be given more hay, some grain with a vegetable oil, shelter and to ensure the water is open. If wet and shivering then towel dry your horse. A temperature less than 96 degrees in a sick animal may be an emergency if the patient is sick and not eating hay, and indicates calling the veterinarian. When we have older horses in the winter we recommend considering giving a pain reliever, such a phenylbutazone, at night when a cold/wet front is coming in, and/or also if there will be below average and very cold winter temperatures the next day (below 10-20F). By giving a pain reliever at night this seems to help these older horses to get up and moving the next morning. The surface for these older animals needs to be flat and ice free if possible. For older horses, camelids and pet goats/sheep that are prone or have had a PEM episode (ruminants) adding vitamin E at 2000+ IU/1000 # to their diet (400 IU/goat) 3x a week helps prevents some of these neuromuscular problems. We have cost effective vitamin E pellets available.
Having the ability of livestock to be out of the wind, rain and wetness is one of the most important considerations before a storm. A three sided barn is adequate. On an open range a wind break is recommended for cattle. It is better to be out in the cold than in a warm barn with a high amount of ammonia in the air. Lung problems develop when the air flow is restricted in a barn. If the water drains to where there is ice where animals may be running or entering a stall this can be a hazard for falling, especially a horse with regular metal shoes. If the rain gutter is freezing up there are some quality round heat cables available that are GFI (i.e. Guardian, Graingers). A muddy and wet skin decreases the amount of insulation the hair and coat provides for an animal. Livestock do not need blanked and we feel they are not needed for the average horse unless the horse is to be shown. A blanket can save up to 3-5% or so of the amount of hay needed to keep a horse warm. If you use blankets use the polyester type intended for outdoor use in the cold; a wet cotton blanket will do more harm than good. Feed more hay as it is safer and less expensive. If you see twine or chards of a tarp in the field, we recommend you pick these up to prevent intestinal problems and/or twine wrapping around the feet issues. If you have solid rubber mats inside a stall we recommend removing these until spring; especially if the horse has metal shoes. Soil or sand is preferred with a couple inches of bedding in the winter. Straw or wood chip/sawdust type of bedding helps to reduce frostbite, hypothermia and other concerns, especially if under a sheltered area. If your animals are eating the straw bedding, then consider feeding more hay. Eating up to ¼ or so of a diet as straw can be adequate in adult cattle as long as they are not pregnant and the hay is of very high quality to offset the straw. There is nothing wrong with using low quality, dust and mold free hay as a bedding if it is lower cost than straw or wood chips; the emphasis is low dust as a priority concern. We have a separate handout for heat lamps, pads, water bottles, etc for poultry, rabbits, potbelly pigs and other outdoor animals.
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Winter Feeding Tips
If you have a pasture that you want to mow down to control the weeds, and it is not of enough volume or quality to bale, then consider having it windrowed for winter use. Windrow the field only once, usually in late summer or right before frost. Keep the livestock out of the field until you need it; turn them in by February if you have not used the pasture by then.
If you feed large bales, and have enough to make a windbreak, this is something to be considered out in the pasture. A permanent windbreak on a quality grass pasture can cause a loss of vegetation around and behind it; we have a separate handout in the feedlot cattle area for permanent wind breaks, and another for temporary buildings and moveable windbreaks. One can take some bales and make a semi-circle and feed out the hay from the ends of this temporary wind break. Corn stalks, straw and other items which can be fed or scattered before the pasture turns green can be used. For a temporary windbreak you should move the location yearly. For a semi-permanent windbreak look around for some locally available items such as shipping containers or large tractor tires which can be used. If you have a wind problem then maybe it is best to build a wind break and/or plant rows of junipers or other similar trees, with a feeding and watering station nearby. When you have a small operation it is not recommended to allow cattle to routinely eat bales of hay with plastic twine or plastic mesh still on the bale; mesh wrapping around the neck, digestive problems from eating plastic, to feet problems/loss of a hoof from strangulation, etc can occur. If you do allow the animals to eat intact bales of hay on the range then consider using sisal twine or the net wrap. Actually the net wrap is preferred and there still can be problems but it will be less; still pick up the wrap and twine after it is free of a bale. In our purchasing hay by the bale, right below the weights of these large bales, we have information about using a board and rebar to keep these bales intact when feeding out a few flakes at a time.
When there will be an approaching storm you will want to consider feeding the cattle closer to where there is stored hay, water and a windbreak available. Start dropping some hay to lead the herd towards this safe area. Wind breaks are very important in saving livestock in blowing cold weather.
It should be noted that feeding bales of hay on the ground will cause a loss of hay. If you dump a small bale of hay on the ground you should expect up to a 42% loss. If you unroll a round bale of hay you should expect a 24% loss. If you have an open ring feeder there will 21% loss of hay on average. If you have an outside wall/metal sheeting on the hay ring the loss will only be 6.1-13% on average. If there is a middle cone insert with the closed bottom ring model the loss will be only 3.5-5%. If you use a rectangular trailer for your square bales the loss is 11.4% on average; while the stationary rectangle cradle is similar at 14.6% on average. There are mats and pads which can be constructed/purchased to go under the hay feeders to help reduce loss. Our pasture management has more information on these pads. In our area if you feed large bales to horses there is a possible chance of botulism occurring; we do not see this issue in cattle. Feeding out of a rubber tire is similar to a closed bottom round bale feeder (1-5%); we do not recommend using rubber tires in areas where there are rattlesnakes. Horses on rubber tire feeders may crib and cause enterolith-like stones to develop in their stomach; on average we do not recommend rubber tire feeders for horses for this and other issues (i.e. rattlesnakes if in the area). To prevent sand colic we do not recommend feeding horses on the ground; to prevent COPD/heaves we do not recommend using old water tanks for horse feeding. An elevated feeder is the best for horses; hay nets are a second best. If you limit the amount of access to a hay feeder to 6 hours a day this will reduce the intake by 20-25% (i.e. in a drought and you need to stretch some hay temporarily); this is the minimum amount of time we recommend. The variety of feeding bale sizes and methods does not affect the daily intake (about 2% of BW if not limited). Hay stored indoors may not seem practical for a large operation; yet if one looses 4" of hay on a 6' bale this is a 21% loss.
When cattle need to break the snow to get to water, it can be difficult to plow if you do not have such an apparatus. Consider instead of getting a solid roller/packer to pack the snow. Add water tanks on top for weight, and use a 4WD tractor to haul the water (or hay on top) to the cattle. Unload the water and hay before returning. If packing snow you will be able to travel faster, and if less than 2' deep in snow it can be just as adequate to allow cattle movement. They also make solar/battery powered hay conveyors for feeding out cattle as a one-person operation; these are usually sold for the back of a pick-up, yet are portable to place upon a packer. These units are also able to be placed to feed up and over a fence, for smaller operations and for a higher feed efficiency than feeding on the ground.
If you have a pasture that is tall, utilize this as a winter feeding pasture. Instead of breaking the pasture down into paddocks, you can string a hot wire across the pasture and move it every few days. This is a type of intensive grazing method. This method is not for cattle about to birth; we instead prefer a clean pasture where no other cattle have been for a few months. Use this clean pasture for pregnant animals yet give them a lot more room once the calves are about to be born. Pregnant animals, especially heifers, need to be separated from the adult herd; heifers need a higher protein supplement provided than the average pregnant cow in the winter.
It is important to provide protein and energy to growing livestock. In winter for pregnancy there is a need for more protein, and in the last couple of months energy also needs to be supplemented. As a general rule in our area for cattle on pasture you can start to feed 1 # of 38% protein cubes per head daily till January and then feed 2 #/day. In February you will need to go to 4 # a day, and if the herd is to calve in April then 2 months or so before calving start feeding 7-8 # of 20% protein cubes (which this increased amount will then provide more energy). If there is wet cold weather this will increase the energy needs by 5%. We have a more specific handout on the winter requirements if you are interested.
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