Nelson Road Veterinary Clinic

Nelson Road Veterinary Clinic We are a full service veterinary facility, located in Longmont, Colorado We provide preventative care for small, large and exotic species of animals.

Providing care for small and large animals including dogs, cats, livestock, and exotics. Dentistry, surgery, acupuncture, ultrasound, in-house laboratory, pharmacy, farm calls and pet boarding.

HEAT STOKE AND HEAT STRESS Heat stress causes heat stroke.  When the heat index reaches over 105 animals and people it c...
07/07/2025

HEAT STOKE AND HEAT STRESS

Heat stress causes heat stroke. When the heat index reaches over 105 animals and people it can cause exhaustion, cramps, heat and sunstroke. If the air temperature is 85 degrees and the humidity is 80%, the heat index will be 99. Raising the air temperature 10 degrees F. will result in the heat index climbing to 113. A heat index over 130 is a very dangerous situation. In a closed car with an outside temperature of 72 degrees F, the temperature inside can rise 40 degrees F higher within an hour.
Pigs and dogs are very sensitive to heat because they do not sweat as much as other animals. Livestock in areas where heat stroke is possible should always have access to water and shelter from the sun. Dogs which have reduced nasal airway capacity, medically called brachycelphalic (i.e. bulldog type breeds), hypothyroid dogs, obese and older patients have more problems tolerating the heat. The brachycephalic airway obstructive syndrome is more common in the English bulldogs, pugs and Boston terriers; these dogs have stenotic nares, elongated soft palates, everted laryngeal saccules and/or everted tonsils. Should you ever take the temperature of an animal, and it is over 106 degrees then first start pouring water on this patient, before calling the veterinarian. Any patient with a temperature of 107 degrees should have alcohol sprayed or lightly poured over their body, if possible; this is the magic temperature that heat stroke is starting to occur, damage to tissues can possibly occur and medical treatment is needed. Alcohol evaporates much quicker and removes heat faster than water. Once you have run out of isopropyl alcohol, or even ethyl alcohol over 40 proof (i.e. vodka), then start using water. Cool down a hot animal until they are 103 degrees F re**al temperature, and then reduce the amount of water or alcohol rinses in order to not drop the body's temperature to below normal. If one cools down an animal too quickly and to a below normal temperature you may cause the patient to go into shock and thus we do not recommend ice water baths. Ice and ice packs are ok if you do not have any water available. After the initial wetting down/alcohol application use the air conditioner in the car on your wat to taking the patient into the veterinarian. We realize that water is usually quicker to find and start using than to wait until someone can run to the nearest store for rubbing alcohol. It should be noted that sheep and goats can normally have a temperature of 104 degrees during the day in summer, and birds can normally have a re**al temperature of 103-108 degrees. Birds and any other animals should be misted with a spray of water if they are showing signs of heat, such as spread out wings in a bird. Cattle that have been on fescue grass can easily develop heat stroke, due to a mold causing the body to not regulate its temperature very well. There are many other causes for a patient to have a high temperature, which can range from systemic infections to toxins to other poisonings affecting the body. We recommend blood tests with heat stroke patients for many reasons. Hypoglycemia, seizures, malignant hyperthermia, exercise induced collapse and other underlying problems can present as a recumbent patient with hyperthermia, especially in hot weather. A dog with malignant hyperthermia is rigid, while an exercise induced collapse in Labrador retrievers will have a flaccid muscle, and yet a similar Collie Collapse disorder has all 4 legs as stiffness. In livestock there are other medical conditions to consider such as anhidrosis in horses to fescue grass issues with cattle.
If any animal is in the hot weather, appears to have rigid muscles, an increased respiratory rate, salivation, an outstretched neck and/or weakness you should make an attempt to reduce the core temperature of the animal until veterinary care can arrive and/or you can transport. If under 104 degrees F. the animal should be placed in the shade and watered down. Giving too much water to drink at once can cause problems, especially in pigs. If the body temperature is greater than 105 degrees, a call to the veterinarian is indicated. Animals with a body temperature of 106 degrees Fahrenheit or greater should be examined as they can have a total body break down called disseminated intravascular coagulation occur later on. Disseminated Intravascular Coagulation (DIC) can then cause a brain problem; many strokes and shock can usually be prevented with an exam, tests and medicines before the collapse occurs. If the clotting factors are low and/or if the animal has had a serve hyperthermia there is an IV treatment with plasma which is indicated if available. With initial treatment some animals may even require a cold water e***a, while other species such as horses and pigs we do not give routinely give e***as to.
IV fluids and medicines are usually needed for animals that have a temperature over 106-107 and appear distressed; each species is treated differently. If in doubt with small animals we will recommend hospitalization, blood tests and IV fluids to prevent kidney problems and DIC from occurring. In many species from birds to pigs if there is dehydration then a hypernataremia (salt toxicity) can occur, along with a secondary acidosis and other problems. There are other causes for hyperthermia for which we have a handout for. Heat stroke and dehydration have similar signs as water toxicity which is seen mostly in humans and a low sodium level is seen on blood tests.
A pulse rate over 65 indicates a problem if horses are undergoing possible heat stress. Rectally take the temperature of all animals if you feel they may be sick and/or hot. Because of the design of an animal’s ear, the ear thermometers are not as accurate (but better than nothing if you do not have any re**al or oral thermometer to use re**ally). Shock, intestinal shut down, muscle weakness and other signs indicate a possible heat stroke. Once the animal has been watered down then call the veterinarian, as there are drugs which may be indicated.
If the heat index is over 120 your horse should be cooled down if he appears hot. When watering a horse wipe the water off your horse if possible, as this is more effective than just spraying the horse. A small amount of water left against the skin can cause the cooler water to run off the patient before the water can cool him down; this minor loss of efficiency is probably only important in a down animal. Ensure you do not develop heat stroke by going out and preventatively treating your horse if he looks okay. A horse in the summer can easily require 5-6 gallons of water a day, and he needs at least this much more if he is undergoing only a few hours of endurance. Endurance horses should also be provided electrolytes when undergoing trials; the average horse with a brown mineral salt block available does not need daily electrolytes when on pasture or in the barn. In our area we recommend fans and/or the portable misting fans (swamp coolers) if possible, in hot barns on extremely hot days. Any horse that has anhidrosis, or inability to sweat, should be tested for a low thyroid condition.
Dehydration and heat stroke/heat stress go hand in hand. Compared to 70 degrees F livestock will required 2.5x the amount of water at 95 degrees F. Always ensure water is adequate and present twice a day in very hot weather. Stressed and high strung animals do not tolerate heat stress very easily. A good vaccination program, parasite and fly control programs helps to reduce the stress and animal loss during hot weather.
If an animal has been without water you need to SLOWLY rehydrate them, especially if it is a pig. For a pig you give a cup of water per 100 # every 30 minutes or so, as they are very, very sensitive to water deprivation and the concerns if rehydrated too quickly. For a 1000 # livestock this can be a gallon every 1/2 hour. Rehydrating an animal too quickly can cause seizures and death. Within 6 hours the animals should be rehydrated and more can be added at a time for pigs and after 10 gallons in adult livestock they can have water ad lib. We have a separate handout on this “salt toxicity” (lack of water) in pigs.
To help reduce heat stress one should provide shade or shelter if possible. Water sprinklers may help those livestock in confinement; especially with night sprinkling. If you feed less than 1/3 of the ration early in the morning, and 2/3+ near dark this can also help reduce activity during the heat of the day for livestock in confinement; feeding before night also helps reduce internal fermentation heat products within the herbivore's body during the daytime. Switching from a dark colored bedding to a lighter colored bedding or straw also helps somewhat. For non-milking adult livestock and horses feeding only once at night time is adequate. Always have adequate water available, especially if the animal is outside in hot weather. If you have a pig that has been without water for more than a couple hours, only provide a small amount of water (1 to 2 cups/100 # every 30+ minutes to 1 hour) to avoid salt toxicity and seizures. Fans do help to keep animal from overheating by evaporation of any sweat on the patient. A ceiling fan should blow down in the summer (up in the winter if in a closed room). We have more information on large fans, dairy barns, feedlots, etc.. For the range cattle heat shades need to be durable if on pasture (i.e. StrobelShades.com). A Quonset type hut can be used for summer and winter if adequate air flow in the summer, yet plastic and fabric will not hold up. Dairy barn-like awnings are also cost effective in some areas for shade and rain. There are no great products that are portable and will last for shade and to prevent heat stress.
If you are out for a walk and you yourself cannot hold your hand onto the asphalt or pavement for 5 seconds without it being too hot, then you probably should not be walking your dog at this time. Instead of boots consider instead waiting until it is cooler. Blowing a fan over a bowl of water towards a dog can help somewhat and if an evaporative cooler is used 5-15 degrees F the temperature can be reduced.
When one drives with their pet in a car, and the pet is not restrained, on a hot day it is tempting to have the windows down. Even if only the driver’s side is down we see many dogs that jump out of the open window anytime to go chase a squirrel they see, etc. It is true that if the car is sitting you especially want to crack the window, but as with driving not enough to allow an escape. When driving keep the windows up if the pet is not restrained.

www.NelsonRoadVet.com

Veterinarian Longmont, Colorado | Small and large animals | Dogs, cats, livestock, exotics | Preventative care, dentistry, surgery, acupuncture, ultrasound, in-house laboratory, pharmacy, farm calls, pet boarding.

SUMMER PET HEALTH PREVENTION TIPS Leave the windows open if you should leave your pet inside a parked car; a car left ru...
06/21/2025

SUMMER PET HEALTH PREVENTION TIPS

Leave the windows open if you should leave your pet inside a parked car; a car left running only invites a thief to break a window, and then take the car and your pet. If possible it is best NOT to take your pet and lock them in a car on hot days, even for a few minutes. Pets do not sweat like we do, so if they are in a confined area their panting will not cool them down. The temperature can easily climb to 120 degrees inside if the windows are left up. If your seats are white the inside temperature can reach 135 degrees when the outside temperature is 79 degrees. Red seats can reach 154 degrees, blue or green seats can reach 165 degrees and black seats can reach 192 degrees with a dog locked inside the car while the windows are up. If the outside temperature is 83 degrees the temperature can reach 109 degrees in 15 minutes, or 101 degrees if the windows are half open. Heat exhaustion can easily occur after prolong temperatures of 100 degrees, and skin burns after touching a surface of 150 degrees. Provide water, roll down the windows to where they cannot escape and check on your pet ever 15 minutes or less if you cannot take your pet with you and you have no other choice than to place them inside a car temporarily during the summer; many times if the pet has to be left in a car during the summer it is much safer to leave them at home. If you have an older dog with a heart condition/murmur, a brachycephalic dog (especially a French bulldog) consider leaving them home and not taking them out when you do errands. These dogs are especially prone to heat stroke.
Anytime an animal is outside in the hot weather, and appears sick, has an increased respiratory rate, is salivating and/or is weak you should relocate the animal to a shady area and take their temperature re**ally. A normal temperature is 100-102. If the temperature is over 105 degrees a call to the veterinarian is indicated, as an exam and treatment to prevent stroke and disseminated vascular coagulation (DIC) may be needed if the patient has hyperthermia. If the temperature is 103.5 to 105 degrees you can pour water on the animal, wipe off the water and repeat 2-3 times, then offer only small amounts of water orally at a time. If you think the pavement is too hot to walk your dog consider placing your hand on the concrete and if you cannot hold it in place for up to 7 seconds it is too hot for some dogs.
Lawn herbicides and insecticides can cause sickness in pets. Keep pets off lawns that have recently been sprayed within the last 3 days. If you have a Scottish Terrier we recommend you do not use the phenoxy herbicides. Wirehaired fox terriers, West Highland White terriers and Shetland sheepdogs can be predisposed to developing bladder cancer if overly exposed to this and other herbicides. The phenoxy herbicides contain "2,4-D", "2,4.5-T", MCPP (4-cholra-2-methylphenoxy propionic acid); the pre-emergence herbicide dicamba (3,6-dichoro-2-methoxybenzoic acid) is also a possible carcinogenic herbicide that should have 3+ days of non-contact for pets if the lawn is sprayed. If you need to spray in your back yard consider spot spraying only the weeds and/or fencing off part of the yard after spraying. Snail bait is a common poisoning; the best method of preventing is to place the bait where the dogs cannot get to it at all. We have some information about using beer and other safer products if you are concerned. Snail bait poisoning appears as a pet seizuring.
When going outdoors consider the potential problems that may exist in your area and affect you or your pet. Rattlesnake and other poisonous snakes are such a consideration. If you go fishing, especially remember to remove the bait off your hooks and also remove the hook to place in the tackle box. Many dogs and cats will eat a hook and line with the flavoring and smell of fish or the bait. Wasps and bees are active in the summer, and should your dog get bit by a wasp give immediately one 25 mg Benadryl antihistamine capsule per 12-25 # of body weight and then call the veterinarian. If you are having wasp problems the Wildlife Deterring area in our website has some information that will help with this problem.
Grooming is important in the health care of animals. Matted hair only contributes to possible problems. Have your pet groomed before the hot weather approaches. Foxtails, skin infections and fly strikes are only a few of the problems that can occur with pets that have matted hair. If you have foxtails in the area where your pets visits we recommend a mid and a late summer "foxtail grooming" appointment.

With pets, horses and children we all need to be extra careful and look at the environment they live it to prevent problems; puppies are especially prone to "if there is a possibility of happening it will occur".
Shelter from the sun and water should be available at all times if your pet is outside. If you have a brachycephalic dog (i.e especially a French bulldog) you need to constantly monitor them for heat stroke and breathing issues if the temperature is over 85F.
Are there any exposed nails, tears in the wire fencing and/or the ability for the pet to dig out and/or climb over the fence? There are invisible fences which can help the dogs who want to escape, but initially a good fence should be built and/or repaired. Also look at the lawn edging; the sharp metal edging should be removed. What can the puppy chew on that will require surgery? Avoidance and preventing problems should always be on a pet owners mind.
Do you have any ant, rodent, snail, insecticide or any other poisonous baits in the back yard and/or shed? Remove them if present; trying to hide them under some cover will only postpone the eventual time when they are discovered.
Do you have poisonous plants in the yard? In our area there is a great concern if you have foxglove, Lily of the Valley or other lily/bulb plants in your yard, monkshood (Aconitum), squill; and you have a dog that likes to chew. Yes you can spray the plants every 10-14 days with a deterrent spray, but avoidance is always the best medicine. In other areas of the country, in your greenhouse or inside there are tropical plants that are extremely toxic; azaleas, castor beans, golden chain tree, oleander, rosary pea, sago palm and/or yew plants. Other plants that are moderately toxic and which should be fenced off from a puppy or a chewing pet are the plants of the caladium/heath/rhododendron, or the Mountain Laurel/lambskill/Kalmia family, as well as the belladonna/Jerusalem cherry/nightshade group of plants. Ground cover type of cactus plants and thorny plants should also be fenced off so the puppy does not run and play in this area. Grapes and some fruits and nuts can be toxic to animals; other garden plants of concern are garlic, onions, potato sprouts, green tomato plants (and green potatoes). We have a much more complete list than the above. If you spray your yard with 2,4-D type products and have a West Highland terrier or a sheltie contact us about using these herbicides; we do believe in spot spraying as needed.
Are you feeding other animals and/or leaving out food that can be harmful to a dog? The ionophores in cattle and other ruminant feeds are toxic to pets. Leaving out food also attracts the raccoons which carry Leptospirosis and skunks which may carry rabies in our area.
We have many poisonous chemical, poisonous plant and deterrent handouts available; as a general rule look at the container and if it is poisonous then keep it up high and/or in a locked cabinet.

Veterinarian Longmont, Colorado | Small and large animals | Dogs, cats, livestock, exotics | Preventative care, dentistry, surgery, acupuncture, ultrasound, in-house laboratory, pharmacy, farm calls, pet boarding.

FEAR OF THUNDER, GUNS AND OTHER LOUD NOISES        It is nice to try to desensitize patients to our spring thunderstorms...
05/14/2025

FEAR OF THUNDER, GUNS AND OTHER LOUD NOISES

It is nice to try to desensitize patients to our spring thunderstorms, but many times we are not home when the thunder comes through. If you pet has an aversion to such storms we recommend picking up some gabapentin as a start to give in the mornings when there is a fair+ change of a storm.
Our pet's ears are more sensitive than ours. It is amazing how far away a dog can hear a thunderstorm. When a pet is afraid of noises he can become a nuisance. You will need to spend time with your pet in order to help him overcome this fear. Whether the animal is afraid of thunder, guns, firecrackers or other loud noises the desensitization approach is the same. You then try to condition your dog to tolerate the noise (counter-conditioning). We recommend all dogs who are fearful of something in the environment to try a pheromone diffuser, such as DAP. These products can help calm about half of these fearful dogs.
To overcome fear one needs to be repeatedly exposed to the dreaded stimulus in a comfortable environment. Start slowly and use common sense; you cannot tie a dog down and repeatedly expose him to gun fire in order to teach the dog not to be afraid. If/when the thunder or other noises occur it may be best to go to the quietest room in the house (i.e. basement) until the patient has been more desensitized and able to be in the family area upstairs; other dogs may do better in the room they normally stay/sleep in.
1. Find out the noises your pet dislikes and record these noises. Start this desensitization process before hunting or the thunderstorm season. There are commercial records, tapes or CD's available for some noises or you can record your own tape. We have commercial sources available for these hard to find items. A circle loop tape helps repeat the noise over and over again without having to restart the machine; cassette players are hard to find anymore. If you have the availability of a double cassette tape or CD player, the initial recording is made much easier. Use a portable tape player that will allow you to put the machine in various places. This helps keep the dog from associating a certain room in your house with the painful noise. When initially recording a noise, have the dog in the room and watch their reactions to the sounds. Record the sounds that seem to bother them. You may also have to vary the intensity, base and treble to determine what bothers your pet. The extremely high or low pitch, inaudible sounds, ozone smell, etc. of approaching thunderstorms unfortunately cannot be duplicated with a recording. By playing the recording on a very low volume to where the pet does not really notice it much is desensitization, of which you need to give treats when he is calm. (Flooding is when you keep playing it over and over). One can record on many cell phones and computers/i-pads noise that will repeat itself (search for repeating music directions for the equipment that you have).
Animals do not learn by reason. They learn by association. If they had an unpleasant experience with a stimulus, then they'll associate that stimulus with fear or pain. People can have the same association problem with dentists, doctors and/or eating out at a new restaurant if they get sick afterwards on the first visit.
2. Play these noises on the very lowest volume level, preferably with the tape player outside the house. Interact with your pet by playing with him, feeding him or anything else that he ENJOYS. Now is not the time to start brushing the matted dog if he does not like grooming, yet if he likes brushing this is a good activity to distract him. If he hates the activity any additional negative stimulus will reinforce the noise problem and further worsen the behavioral condition. After a few minutes performing the grooming, etc then IGNORE the dog as if the training session had never started. You do not want him to associate that with every noise problem he will get groomed, etc.
3. Do not proceed any further with the noise level until your pet feels and acts comfortable. You may have to back up and regress to a lower volume level when the tape player is moved to a new location. Vary the location of the player, even hiding it inside the house in a closed room. The dog should not be exposed to the same location of the sound because then future noises they hate will vary in location and intensity. Expect to take weeks to months to help overcome this condition. Work with the problem at least 3-6x a week, varying the time and location you are with your dog while the noises are being played.
4. Eventually you will want to play the noises while you are out of the room or house. You can start to do this during the early stages of playing the recorder on the lowest volume level. We ask that you do not leave the pet alone with the tape for the first 20-30 sessions. To comfort and pay attention to your dog ONLY while the noise is playing may also cause problems. The dog will associate the need to be with you and be comforted while the noise is playing. ACT AS IF YOU DO NOT HEAR THE NOISE AT ALL; if the noise starts to bother your pet do not push his threshold limit initially and instead lower the tape's volume. If at all possible try to not let the dog know that you control the noise; place him in another room when adjusting the noise or turning on/off the machine. You need to act happy and more relaxed when the offending noises are being played; dogs can sense when you are tense. Vary the schedule, play other music instead of the noise tape during some of these training sessions when you are desensitizing your pet. Feed your pet and reward him for doing tricks during some sessions, but not during every desensitization meeting. At times you will need to redirect your pet's attention when the thunder is playing; us a Buster Cube, a Kong Toy with food inside and/or some other safe chew type item he can play with and redirect his attention towards. Vary the intensity of the noises. It is important to not be consistent and provide the same routine each day when undergoing this process. Vary the sounds that disturb them; you may need to make another recording or two. The patient should not be exposed to the same sounds or the tape(s) in the same order every time. One can also obtain an aluminum pie pan and hit it to reproduce a type of loud noise, similar to thunder noise; again try to do this when he is in a different room and/or have someone else do the banging where he cannot see the source of the sound. Also record this and other similar noises if the dog is afraid of it.
How many times have we conditioned our pets to fight to get inside with the approaching, distant thunderstorms? We run out and acted as if he needs to be inside immediately, as if a tornado is approaching instead of a thunderstorm. Each individual patient will have different time requirements for this counter-conditioning process. If the dog is outside and you know thunder is approaching how about playing fetch outside (briefly at first) before coming inside? If the dog is only brought inside during storms, then you will need to start allowing him in when the weather is nice. Gradually and consistently increase the time or level of training. Eventually you will need a large tape playing system to loudly play the thunder, but not loud enough to hurt your own ears either. The volume should be as loud as you normally would play your own music. Most of us have an existing music system at home that will be adequate to play the cassette tapes or CD's. It would be best to sometimes play your own music before and/or after the thunderstorms are played; the 1812 Overture and Beethoven's Symphony #5 are good examples. If you are not home consider playing classical music to help keep dogs calm.
5. If you are at a standstill and not getting anywhere please call us for advice. Some patients will need tranquilizer-like drugs to be able to go through the desensitization process. We recommend you have on hand anti-anxiety type of drugs (MAOIs) to be started a couple weeks before the thunderstorm season and/or a tranquilizer for the fearful dog so you can give this when you notice he is first showing signs of anxiety and/or the weather indicates thunderstorms that day. We have many other types of behavioral and natural type of drug therapies to try; "thunder shirts" and similar items do help with this problem. Besides the toys to redirect his attention there are also calming caps, calming wraps and shirts/vests. The DAP pheromones can be tried as well as magnolia + phellodendren combination herbal products which may help up to 1/3 of these patients. A few patients may need gabapentin twice a day and trazadone 2+ hours before a possible storm or twice a day during the storm season. We highly recommend with all patients with such a seasonal fear to start giving them gabapentin twice a day starting a few days before the noises may start, and then add on trazadone or another behavioral drug if/when needed. Gabapentin is a very safe, inexpensive drug that can be given long term if need be.
Some individual patients may need to be desensitized to a small BB gun before a rifle shot, or to thunder before the gun desensitization process starts. A lot of dogs may be fine when they know where the nearby noise comes from, such as when they are hunting, yet cannot tolerate a gun being fired 1/4 mile away. Behavioral problems cannot be solved with a cookbook approach. We and your pet need feedback and observation to help correct the situation.
A few dogs cannot be desensitized. Does the dog have better hearing than other dogs? Does the sound hurt his ears, or is the dog uncomfortable with not knowing where the sound is coming from? It may not be the sound but also the ozone that is produced with lightening, the barometric pressure change, wind, and/or lightening. We sometimes don't know the underlying source and/or cannot repeat the exact causes of the inciting stimulus. Thunder is a prime example of a phobia where we may need to dispense drugs to be given 1-2x a day during the thunderstorm season to lessen their fear of thunder. If your dog is barking and/or scared of the wall, there are other problems inside the wall which can be causing him to be concerned (i.e. mice).
If you are in a position where your dog is scarred of the noises, it is best to play calming music at a fairly loud level. Some feel that dogs cannot hear the thunder, firecrackers, etc, but in reality they still can. If you have fast acting calming drugs, such as a Valium-type drug or a TCA drug, hopefully you can give it 1+ hour before needed). We do have treat dispensing machines which may help some dogs to be medicated for those afternoon storms; there are also longer acting Prozac type medicines which need to be started a few weeks before the thunderstorm season. Holding a dog will comfort them, and the calming caps/shirts, etc may help some; if your dog likes to chew and swallow on such clothing items we recommend not using the calming caps, etc. Many dogs have a resting place in the house which they prefer to be when there are loud noises outside; encourage them to be in this room and this action alone with a chew toy may be all that is needed. Each patient is different.
Besides the pheromones and other products that help some dogs, there are also “calm type” diets and supplements that can be tried; yet for a quick response the Valium-type drugs or the norepinephrine blocking type of tranquilizer drugs that can be given 1/2 hour before an event should be kept around for these dogs that are very fearful. The va**um type products (i.e. diazepam) can be given orally in a food ball, but the norepinephrine blocking drugs (i.e. dexdomitor) needs to be given in the buccal pocket (gums) in order to be effective; dexdomitor should be squired to the outside of the teeth with the jaws shut. The Prozac)/TCA/SSRI and MAOI type of drugs also work very well and can be the preferred drug treatment but these take longer to take full effect.

Veterinarian Longmont, Colorado | Small and large animals | Dogs, cats, livestock, exotics | Preventative care, dentistry, surgery, acupuncture, ultrasound, in-house laboratory, pharmacy, farm calls, pet boarding.

Address

8875 Nelson Road
Longmont, CO
80503

Opening Hours

Monday 8am - 5:30pm
Tuesday 8am - 5:30pm
Wednesday 8am - 5:30pm
Thursday 8am - 5:30pm
Friday 8am - 5:30pm
Saturday 8am - 12pm

Telephone

+13036788387

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