Kodiak Bones & Bugs

Kodiak Bones & Bugs KBBT offers guarantied clean/healthy dermestid beetles for taxidermy work. We provide post-sale "tech-support", as questions "will" arise!
(35)

Much of our business is repeat professional clients! We have also been professionally cleaning skulls since 2012.

02/13/2024

“Ken: How many bugs do I need to do…?”

I receive permutations of this question multiple times weekly. This is a really important basic question for anybody considering investing in a dermestid colony.

Using too few dermestids to finish the cleaning job in a specific amount of time will result in frustration and harm to your new colony. Properly matching your colony to the task will prevent this.

Specifically, when you place your specimen into your colony, you have a limited amount of time before the meat that remains uncleaned by the colony not so much rots, but will instead simply dry out. Usually, this is a matter of 3-5 days, varying by temperature and humidity, etc. Whatever amount of “meat” that is left on (and inside) the skull or specimen, has now become too dry for the colony (and especially any newly hatching tiny larvae) to clean and obtain any nutrition from.

When this happens, the colony is starving and you are frustrated. You cannot “outwait” the colony to finish your desired cleaning project…

Your skull is now 2/3 cleaned, with bits of dried meat remaining both inside and outside. Because the dermestids were doing the job they so specialize in, there are MANY up in the dark recesses of the skull doing their cleaning job as best they can (smells good…I just can’t chew it…Help!).

At this point, you will beat on the skull over the colony, and many will fall back to the colony. Trust me… no matter how long or hard you beat on the skull, when you eventually plop it into a bucket of water overnight to re-soften the remaining meat, you will be horrified to find 5% (or lots more?) of your colony drowned. (You also now likely have soon-to-be-dried-out larvae carcasses lodged in the tight spots of your skull.)
Yes, following soaking, the remaining colony will gladly reengage with the kibbles and bits remaining on the skull/project. If there was lots of tissue remaining, I’d suggest considering allowing your colony to grow for a bit before finishing your project. (Any type of protein is appropriate; I feed my tiny larvae Dollar Store hot dogs.)

The 300+ colony is a minimum size to successfully begin to build a colony (of unlimited size…) of your own. The 300+ is appropriate for cleaning bird skulls, rodents, furbearers, etc. This colony WILL NOT successfully clean a deer sized skull without growth.

The 1000+ colony is sized to be the minimum colony size to clean a well-trimmed deer skull in the time-window discussed earlier. This also presumes proper container/conditions (I provide this guidance).

If wanting to clean multiple skulls, I’d recommend adjusting expectations and cleaning the first several skulls one at a time vice trying to push a colony. It will be important to keep a focus on the needs of the tiny larvae you are working so hard to produce, because their needs are a bit counter to those of the skull cleaner. Again, I can provide this guidance.

I hope this helps and I’d be glad to discuss any specifics to your situation, as well as provide quality dermestids when ready.
Regards

Ken

10/18/2023

DERMESTIDS AND HUMIDITY
A frequent concern among dermestid colony owners is maintaining the colony in chronically high humidity. Dermestids can flourish in a wide range of humidity. In very low humidity conditions, occasional “watering” of the colony may be necessary. This can easily be determined and accomplished by misting a paper towel and observing the response of the dermestids to the damp towel. If they flock to the towel, more frequent “watering” may be necessary. Generally, the colony should not need additional water more than weekly.

Chronic high humidity presents a potential problem. The “frass” created by the colony over time, has the property of slowly drawing moisture from the surrounding air. If the frass is not occasionally stirred up, this moisture will collect in the bottom of the container, while the surface appears dry. These damp conditions will quickly begin to favor the development of either mold or mites. Both have the potential to quickly end the colony!

Proper beetle colony hygiene dictates that the frass be frequently stirred up. Dermestids are not the ant-colony that many of us Boomers grew up with – the dermestids do not create subterranean tunnels and such. If the frass is properly kept light and fluffy (from frequent stirrings) the dermestids will easily crawl back to the surface. Placing a fan inside the container or blowing over the cover to move more air through the colony will also help in keeping the substrate drier.

I am now past my high-season and have an abundance of dermestids.  I am offering 10% off on colonies of 5K+ through Marc...
02/22/2023

I am now past my high-season and have an abundance of dermestids. I am offering 10% off on colonies of 5K+ through March 2023. Contact me directly to receive the offer.

06/29/2021

Keeping dermestids in extreme heat

My home and business are located in the rain shadow of the Cascade mountains. Summer temperatures approaching 100 degrees are common, but currently the Pacific Northwest is dealing with record temperatures some areas exceeding 115 degrees for several days in a row.
If you are maintaining a dermestid colony in heat extremes, it is critical you address the requirements of your bugs during these record heat periods.
Dermestids can certainly routinely handle high temperatures. However, my experience has shown that at temperatures of 100 degrees or greater, air movement becomes an important factor in keeping the bugs alive. If your colony is located in an area that cannot be cooled during extreme temperatures, I have found that a fan blowing air over the top of the dermestid enclosure will alleviate some of the heat-stress resulting from extreme temperatures.
If you have a chest-freezer type set-up, a small fan can be placed inside to circulate air, or if equipped with the vent system, this might be operated more frequently. While you don’t want to be whipping up tornados in the frass, don’t be afraid to have a decent flow of air; you won’t give the bugs a chill…
In addition to air movement, obviously, the colony will likely need additional water during periods of extreme heat. If you have been watering your dermestids, you may have to simply increase the frequency.
If you have NOT been watering your colony, they might greatly benefit from occasional watering.
I am an advocate of the “paper towel” method for watering dermestids. Lay a paper towel atop the frass. Spray the towel with several pumps of water from a spray bottle. If the dermestids are thirsty, they will quickly ring the towel, drinking. Repeat this as often as necessary, letting the dermestids demonstrate how frequently they need watering.
If you feel you have a good grip on water needs, you may also simply spray the surface of the frass. However, I caution you to NOT put too much water into a dermestid colony, as mold and mites can result from overly damp conditions.

Address

Lyle, WA
98635

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Kodiak Bones & Bugs posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact The Business

Send a message to Kodiak Bones & Bugs:

Share

Category


Other Lyle pet stores & pet services

Show All

You may also like