08/23/2024
Answering a few other frequently asked questions:
To start with, while facebook does not allow animal businesses to talk about prices, there are some questons I can answer on here.
I get a lot of questions about discounts on rabbits. There are a few different ways people can get discounts.
First, any time littermates are purchased together, there is a 20% discount.
Second, we offer a discount on rabbits that are showable colors to kids in 4-H and FFA. This does not include any color not reccognized by the ARBA. So brokens, harlequins, vienna marked, otters, maratins, or tans. In order to recive the discount, your kids must come with you to pick up the rabbit, or show proof the kids are in either 4-H or FFA. This discount is 40% off.
Every once in a while, we will do discounts on rabbits if they have been here a while or if we have a lot of bunnies we need to move. This can range from a discount on individual rabbits, to a discount any time multiple are purchased.
The seccond thing I get a lot of questions about is why I charge what I do for each of my rabbits. The short answer is that prices are based on color, gender, pedigree, quality, and age. The long answer is a bit more complicated.
In most cases, across all breeds and varieties, does cost more than bucks. That is also the case here. If we have a doe and a buck that are the same color, same quality, same type, same genetics, the doe will cost more than buck.
We have angoras from many different bloodlines. Some come from long established, well known breeders. Some come from very unknown breeders. I have been replacing my lower quality rabbits with higher quality rabbits over the last few years, but I do still have some really good rabbits from lesser known bloodliens. rabbits that come from bloodlines that perfrom well on the show table also cost more than rabbits from unproven lines.
Age also plays an important factor in the price. Most of my jrs start off mid range for what they could end up being priced at. If we have them around a while, and we need to get them moved, they can end up getting discounted. However, if we start showing them, the price will go up. If we end up breeding them, and they are then proven breeders, the price will go up. However, as they near retirement, the price will start to decrease agian.
Quality also factors into the cost. While most of our rabbits are within breed standards, there are some things that make individuals different from each other. We determine quality based on how well they adhear to the ARBA's Standard of Perfection. This means looking at overall type, body shape, head shape, furnishings, and any structural flaws. But it also means taking into condisdertaion the density, texture, color saturation, length, and consistency.
Color also plays a role in the cost of the rabbit. Colors like REW, chestnut, and black are going to be some of our less expensive colors. Magpies, well marked harlequins, and heavy vienna marked rabbits will be our most expensive. A lot of this price variation comes down to the genetics behind the colors and the demand for them. A good way to look at it, for those who understand the basics of color genetics, is the more recessive genes needed for a color, the more expensive that color will be. This is the norm in not only rabbits, but many other types of animals as well.
Overall, I charge a little less than most of the breeders that raise english angoras at the same level as I do, but much more than people just breeding pets without pedigrees. I know I charge less for the rabbits I have born here than I pay for the rabbits I buy. I understand if my rabbits are not withing your price range. I just wanted to take the time to answer all the qustions I get asked often, and kind of educate people getting into the rabbit world on why rabbits cost what they do.
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