Dolly’s go home Lesson was punctuated by peals of laughter at how damn cute she was. Little dog owners, don’t think just because you set boundaries with your dog that it will make them lose their personality. Dolly has gained a whole new confidence, has acquired skills that make her safer in this world, and happier in general.
This nice woman asked to pet Maya and maya definitely wanted to say hi too! But I didn’t want her greeting with too much excitement so I declined and told her how we were working on calmly eating food when people walk up. I told her that Maya is working on self regulation/calmness. About how I don’t want her to be too excited when greeting, because excitement can turn into frustration real quick. Then we had a nice little convo about her GSD instead. People are usually willing to help you out in your training if you explain what you are trying to do. This was a nice visit for little Maya! She got to get some snackies and see some people! You’ll notice she was able to self control and listen to the lady talk without disengaging from me. Had this not been the case, I would have been doing movement instead of stillness while feeding her.
Gus is sooooo fun. He’s athletic, mentally tough, extremely smart, and biddable. So even though he’s a pet; he can do a lot more than what a pet would typically do - especially when it involves nose work or retrieving.
He enjoys the process of working and learning, so we having been doing a bit of customizing with his Board & Train. He has great ball drive so here we are seeing if we can create a formal retrieve and get him to fetch other objects. We got two successes with a stick, wow! That’s not nothing! Notice that I am holding him back from getting the object at first. This builds drive/frustration for him to get the thing. It also allows me to name the behavior. The click at the end signifies the end of the behavior. Fetch not only means “get the thing” it means “get the thing and bring it.”
Conditioning calm in public with Dolly. Just free shaping with her kibble.
Another 3 minute hand feeding session. Five handfuls of kibble.
You have to remember- these are fully trained dogs. They know the behaviors! If you are training the behaviors yes it might take longer than 3 minutes!
One of the most common objections I get with our hand feeding requirement is: “I don’t have time!” This comes from a fundamental misunderstanding of what hand feeding is. It can take...literally 3 and a half minutes twice a day. You could very easily steal 3.5 minutes from your Netflix or scrolling social media time!
Or, another one is: “my dog doesn’t want to work he’s distracted!” Not a problem, put him back in his kennel and try again later. At some point, it will be clear to your dog that you have food and his hunger will override everything that is “not you.”
“My dog doesn’t listen to me as well as you.” Also not a problem. Your dog doesn’t have to “listen” if you don’t command him to do anything. So don’t command him - just stand there with the food and see what he naturally does. If your dog has been through a Board & Train program, your dog will start offering sit, down, come, eye contact, and place. So just reinforce all those behaviors that we taught! The work is done for you! 🤪
This is what a typical breakfast for Sokka looks like. This 3.5 minutes represents a value time for us to connect, to reinforce a healthy relationship dynamic, and to establish healthy patterns inside the house. The breakfast is eaten quickly in several handfuls. In the first half of the video I use Free shaping to see what the dog wants to offer. Once the dog is easily offering on his own I begin to cue the dog to do it. I think I cued it maybe three times, the rest of the time was just capturing (meaning the dog chose to do it on his own and I marked and reinforced).
When Sokka goes him his owner will hand feed him for 3-6 months so that they can create a healthier relationship dynamic. Sokka enjoys this lifestyle and seems very happy with the arrangement. He’s a proud, confident guy when he’s consistently asked to show us the best version of himself.
Chief likes to pick things up and investigate them. This can be a hat on the ground, a sock, a paper towel, a contractor bag. Really anything at all. When you pursue him to retrieve the item out of his mouth, it becomes a game for him and he wants to play keep away. We noticed this on day 1 and have been working on it. Chief has shown no propensity to resource guard and we’d like to keep it that way. Avoiding resource guarding is way easier, safer, and 1000x less expensive than fixing it once it has become a habit. There can be a slightly different “recipe” for each dog, but Chief’s looks like this:
1. Always having him drag a house line. That way, if he snags a makeup brush, baseball glove, or whatever the heck else on his way out the door to potty (just as an example), you can step on his house line and immobilize him. This prevents the game of keep away from starting. I will step on the end of his line and calmly walk up his line and retrieve the thing out of his mouth. I do not tug on the thing, I open his jaws and get it out. going after it. Once I get we move on.
2. We work on an out command. I say out and if he drops the thing, I make a big deal out of it. If he fails to drop the thing, I move him away from the thing with the leash. We practice with everything that might be an issue - brushes, socks, shoes, gloves, hats, clothes, sticks, pine cones, clickers, chewing items, toys, boxes, water bottles, etc. the key is to not get flustered when your puppy picks something up. Create a clean out cue, practice it frequently, and when your puppy finds something it should have, simply have them drop the thing.
3. Keeping the house picked up. This can be difficult to do especially with kids in the house, but while you work on having a really clean “out,” you’re going to have to try to keep socks etc out of the puppy’s mental space.
How to Let Puppy Out
1. Walk up calmly (without speaking or overexciting the puppy)
2. Attempt to open the door. If puppy barks or paws the door, remove your hand for 5-10 seconds to negatively (remove something) reinforce (increase the likelihood of) the behavior of QUIET. John Paul has a tendency to get over excited anytime he thinks he’s going to go be worked, and he also has a tendency to protest bark when left in the kennel. We want to instead condition calmness.
3. Open the door, if puppy rushes out, close the door to stop him or use your body to block him in.
4. Say “okay!” or “let’s go!” when you are ready to invite him out.
5. When you put him back in, walk up to the crate and say “kennel.” If he is avoidant of the kennel, put a leash on the dog and try again. When he goes in, say “down,” and lure him down.
6. Periodically reinforce quietness as you walk away. Anytime you catch him being calm and quiet drop a kibble in his crate. If the dog really struggles to settle, give a frozen Kong or toppl every time you have to leave for long periods.
Had JP out in a busy environment last night - the grocery store. The environment dictated a short leash. He is rarely ever on a short leash. How did he do? Amazingly well. Like almost perfect. When I say perfect I mean at my left side, keeping track of me, and rarely or never putting pressure on the leash.
I have probably spent hours upon hours training the dog not to pull, right? Nope. JP’s foundation has been primarily OFF leash. He has probably been on a short leash maybe 4 times in his life. What you are seeing is the result of tons of reinforcement for the heel position. Every time the dog ends up at my left on my property he is reinforced. As a result the dog sort of just prefers my left side. Adding a short leash (at least at this developmental stage and in this environment) isn’t a challenge for him. He’s very used to migrating with me. He’s very accustomed to being on my left. The dog has never practiced leash pulling, so it’s never been reinforced. He’s sensitive to hitting the end of the leash. He’s interested in his environment but not overly interested. If wants to investigate stuff I let him, to the extent that is safe.
I have to say I really enjoy this extended time with JP. There’s so much patterning going on in the little brain of his.
We are starting to do behavioral Downs AKA long Downs AKA sit on the dog with Chief. This to create a dog who has the skill of settling. Settling isn’t something that comes naturally to most dogs. Most of the problems I see in 9 month - 2 yo dogs come from not enough work on relaxation in the first six months.
Relaxation - true relaxation - involves the puppy submitting to the reality that he can’t be active right now. He can’t say hi to Jonathan. He can’t say hi to my dog sleeping on the couch. He can’t chew the couch. He can’t jump in my lap. Etc. Yes exercise is important and every new puppy owners first impulse is to run them until they are tired. There is a time and place for that. Of course puppies need to run. But exercise doesn’t replace the internal skill of repeatedly (daily for 6 months straight) being asked to settle down. There’s multiple exercises out there that look similar to each other but basically they all involve sitting or standing on your dogs leash until they calm the f down. If you have a 3-6 month old puppy who struggles with frustration, reactivity, jumping, nuisance barking, general disrespect... you probably don’t need to spend a lot of time worrying about a solid place command or sit or shake. You probably need to spend time (try 180 days in a row) standing on your dog’s leash, making total relaxation (chin to floor or sleeping) the ticket into the next activity. Right now chief has very little impulse control - which is normal for puppies his age - and he is in the beginning stages of learning it. He wants to launch himself towards everything and anything he finds interesting - other dogs, people, etc. This is cute right now but it will very quickly become dangerous and unwelcome. People can be pulled over, knocked over by jumping, and scared by big dogs lunging towards them. Right now is the only time that we have to instill a sense of calmness in the dog. We can either make use of it now or deal with problems la
What behavior is John Paul displaying? Tell us in the comments!
John Paul will need to go to a groomer for coat maintenance for the rest of his life, so we are conditioning him to enjoy collar grabs and beard grabs. It’s much safer for the dog that way if they don’t flail and flip out when restrained. Process is simple: grab the face or the collar, mark and reward. Over time we’ll add comb, a trimmer sound, scissors, etc and condition him to enjoy and cooperate with those activities as well. #puppytraining #puppyraising #doggrooming
Everybody welcome Gus! He’s here for...well I’ll just let the video explain it 😬
Gus gets to join me for coffee this morning! He is doing a Behavioral Down while I caffeinate. This exercise involves sitting with your dog on a short leash and waiting until they find a calm body and mind posture. This morning it took Gus about 20 minutes! Believe it or not, this number will get smaller and smaller the more we practice. We do this once a day!
Having so much fun in the leaves today!
She is looking happier and more confident every day!
This is a pretty big deal! You have to be so neutral with dogs like this, you can’t even be too excited when they do good. The social pressure is too much for her. She is only eating from my hand right now, and her appetite has been extremely low. For the first few days I had to bring other dogs out and work them so that she would eat. See what I mean about “needing” other dogs to regulate emotionally? That’s littermate syndrome!
Everyone meet Pepper! Her owner has already worked with her a ton, actually she did several levels of Pet Smart classes (!) and they want to learn e-collar to solidify their recall. Because the owner already has good communication with the dog, they can skip straight to e-collar work!
She tried to condition e-collar before on her own, got kinda overwhelmed, and put it back in the box. Is this you? Give me a call! 😃
Finley can be a little unsure about new things but we are seeing her return to curiosity after a flight response more often. It was really funny - there’s a very gradual ramp leading up to these bleachers and for about 3/4 of the ramp she was walking y’all, but as she neared the top she started crouching. Everybody gangsta until the depth perception kicks in! 😂
A good rule of thumb with puppies is to go in search of interesting things (other dogs, other people) and work to make looking away from those things at least as worthwhile or more worthwhile.
The way all leash reactivity starts is with a prolonged stare and a buildup of arousal, so it’s best to start EARLY making those things a cue for engagement with handler rather than a cue for arousal.