Empty parking lot walks because sometimes less is more
Dogs are not impressed by scenery but they can be distracted by too many distractions.
If you are having this issue, I highly recommend finding an empty parking lot and letting your dog explore.
Let him concentrate on his sniffing and not be distracted by a bunch of people or other dogs.
Monthly health pets
Touching your dog all over, and I mean all over, is a great way to identify medical issues way before he lets you know anything is going on.
For adult dogs, I recommend doing it at least once a month. For younger puppies I recommend doing it weekly so they get used to handling.
If your dog is uncomfortable with the handling, feel free to use plenty of treats.
The this way cue is very handy on walks. It’s a great way to keep your dog going on the correct side of obstacles. And if you do this enough, your dog will eventually start picking the correct side of obstacles to walk around. I call it leash physics. #DogTraining #Dog #Dogs #DogWalking
Raised hackles are NOT a sign of aggression. They are actually a result of piloerection, a nervous reflex that causes hair to stand on end.
Raised hackles ARE an indication that your dog is uncomfortable/anxious in the situation.
Allowing or forcing your dog to approach people or other dogs while his hackles are raised can be a recipe for disaster. Anxious dogs can be quick to panic and quick to make a bad choice.
Instead, for everyone’s safety, including your dog’s, take note of the situation and move on. Then add that scenario to your desensitization list for future training sessions.
Teaching your dog to LEAVE thrown toys is a great way to strengthen your Leave It cue. Here is how to do it.
Have a low value toy and high value treats
Right before you throw the toy, I mean right before, let your dog smell the high value treat. Let him know what he is working for.
Only throw the toy 2-3 foot away. The further the toy travels and the further your dog runs to it, the harder it will be to get him to leave it. So just toss the toy about 2-3 foot away.
As you toss the toy, cue Leave It. Before your dog has even had time to run after it. The moment he stops going toward the toy (even if he doesn’t look at you), the moment he stops, click or say Good boy and then give him the high value treat.
Only do this 2-3 times in a row. Even though you have high value treats, calling him away from the fun will very quickly become frustrating for him.
Slowly increase the distance that you throw the toy and the value of the toy over the coming weeks/months.
If your dog doesn’t leave the toy – don’t reprimand him. We want the game to remain fun for him. Just look at the scenario and try to figure out a way to be successful next time. Maybe the toy is too high value. Maybe the treat is too low value. Maybe the toy was tossed too far too fast.
Be patient and keep the training fun. Make it a personal challenge – Can I get my dog to do this? How can I get my dog to do this. Versus will my dog do this. It is your responsibility to be more exciting than the toy. Don’t blame your dog if you are not.
Just because a store calls it a dog toy - that doesn't mean your dog thinks it is a toy. Not every human enjoys the same activities and it is the same for dogs.
If you are struggling to find a toy that your dog will engage with don't just go buy another toy. Pay attention to things he does enjoy engaging with.
Maybe he likes big toys, heavy toys, fluffy toys, stationary toys, toys that make noise.
Figure out exactly what your dog does enjoy and then go find a toy that replicates that.
Take the dog bed. It might make you both feel more at home.
Leave It first and ask questions later. This is a great strategy to interrupt problems before they start.
The tale of two 1 minute walks.
Slowing down to let your dog sniff and explore may actually mean stopping or moving at a snails pace - but it IS worth it.
Allowing your dog to sniff and explore will actually help them use up more energy than that brisk walk around the block.
Don't believe me? Give it a try!
Goodbye Kansas!! Follow along as I look for a new home & training studio and as my dog, Scooter, acclimates (hopefully) to a more urban environment.
Younger puppies have very little control over their digestive system. They usually don’t know they need to go outside until the moment they need to go outside.
That means if you wait for them to alert you, you’re probably a day late and a dollar short. Instead, getting into the habit of interrupting sessions, taking them outside for a potty break and letting them come back in and continue the play.
As they get older, they’ll have more control over their digestive system, but while they’re young, don’t wait for them to tell you.
If you’re struggling with house training, check out our online house training rehab course. It’s appropriate for dogs of all ages.
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If you’re trying to house train your puppy or dog, be sure to pay attention to activity level. The more active your puppy is the more potty breaks he needs.
It’s important to have a potty schedule, like taking your puppy out every hour or two hours. But they are more active than usual during those times you might have to add in a few extra potty breaks.
Level always trumps schedule. And this may mean interrupting play sessions to take your puppy outside.
And activity level means anything other than laying dormant. Even just following you around the house. When they’re active that bladder starts filling up and if you wait till your scheduled time or until your puppy alert you, you may be a day late and a dollar short.
Remember, watch your puppies activity level and never hesitate to throw in an unscheduled potty break.
Are you struggling with house training? Check out our online, self-paced course Housetraining Rehab. It’s appropriate for dogs of all ages.
https://courses.personablepets.com/courses/HousetrainingRehab
