25/06/2025
Since I have been receiving numerous messages about this topic, I have decided to create a post explaining my practices and ethics.
Information About My Rattery
I have been breeding rats for nearly 24 years. Rats have actually been part of my life for even longer than that. During these 24 years, I have only been without rats for less than 6 months. Those few months were difficult for me, and I have no intention of experiencing that again.
My breeding approach focuses on working with specific lines. This means my rats are bred within particular genetic lines that carry certain traits. For example, all of my Chocolate rats typically belong to one line. This method allows me to maintain consistency without having to sacrifice temperament for the sake of preserving a variety.
Currently, I specialize in preserving rare genes within the rat fancy. I do this because over the past 23 years, I have witnessed multiple genes completely disappear from the community. In response, I gathered these varieties and now focus on improving their health, temperament, type, and longevity. Progress with some lines is slow because I sometimes need to prioritize one aspect over another. However, temperament and health always come first in my breeding decisions.
I am a longevity breeder, which means I often delay pairings to get a more detailed understanding of each rat's health and temperament before using them in my program. I never breed rats that have displayed health concerns or temperament issues such as aggression or hormonal aggression. While some of my lines still carry certain health and temperament challenges, I do not breed rats with serious problems. For instance, if I have a line where rats tend to be wiggly when handled, I select the calmest individuals to continue the line.
This does not guarantee that every rat adopted from me will be flawless. Issues can still emerge, but I work extremely hard to minimize them. I will always inform you about any known issues within a line if you ask.
Regarding breeders who wish to adopt from me, I welcome them. Many of my lines are works in progress, and I will be transparent about both the strengths and weaknesses of each line. I do require other breeders to sign a strict contract when adopting rare varieties. This allows me to track these rats and ensure they do not end up in situations where my years of work could be undone.
The varieties and lines I currently work with include Chocolate, Shadow, Chinchilla, Golden, Tonkinese, Marten, Dalmatian/Downunder, Pink Eyed Dilute, and Australian Mink.
I house my rats in Critter Nations until they are ready for breeding pairs, at which point they move to 110 quart bins. My babies stay in 110 quart bins until they reach 6 weeks old, then they join other young rats in a Critter Nation. Their primary diet consists of Mazuri 6F. I supplement this with fresh protein sources twice weekly and fruits, vegetables, and grains three times per week. I also provide a treat mix that follows many principles of the Shunamite Diet.
Concerning My Adoption Practices
I require all adoptions be made in pairs or more. Rats need constant companions and they will be going through a quarantine process.
I adopt out at 8 weeks old.
I require an application be filled out before I approve you.
I only adopt out in same s*x groups.
I do place all pet adopters on a non-breeding contract.
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