W Spur Horsemanship

08/31/2024

3 year old QH gelding 14.3 HH. Franks is available through Embrace Equine Ministry - Wild Hope. He’ll be finished with his training here soon and ready for his new forever home. Frankie has the “born broke” temperament and has just the right amount of whoa and go. He’s very willing and eager to please. He’s got a ton of potential to go in many directions. He would excel at ranch horse riding, trial horse, pleasure horse, even a kids 4 H horse with some more miles under saddle. Correction to the video this is ride 6 not 5 regardless he’s amazing boy. I do not own the rights to this music.

08/31/2024

08/15/2024

“They’re just a trail horse”

It always pets my peeves just a little when you try to encourage someone to work with their horse more and gain more control and you get the “he’s just a trail horse. He doesn’t need all of that fancy stuff”. First off having full control of your horses body isn’t “fancy stuff” it’s the basics. Second off, trail horses need to be some of the most well equipped horses mentally and physically for the job. There are countless scenarios, environments and obstacles your horse needs to overcome. So being able to control where you put your horses feet is CRUCIAL for your safety and THEIRS. Even my well trained, been there done that ranch horses have encountered obstacles on the trail they are unsure of. I can rope a bull and drag it into a trailer, halter break 1,200 colts, ride down a highway on Reba, but the first time we encountered a bridge over water she was having second thoughts.

There’s a lot of rough country that I’ve ridden on my horses and there’s only been two times in my life while riding my finished horses that I felt the need to step off and lead my horse through an obstacle because I felt it was unsafe to do so. I don’t ever really ever have many scenarios or obstacles (even new ones) that I’ve encountered where I don’t trust my finished horses to carry me through safely. The reason why is because I have control of where my horses feet go. If I come across a big slick rock in the trail I can tell my horse to take their left front foot and step over the rock and not on it. If I come across a bridge with a giant hole in it I can tell my horses to step over not in it. If I come to a sketchy part of the trail I don’t have to question my horses footing because I can evaluate and tell my horse where their feet go to ensure our safety. I can move my horses ribs so my legs don’t get caught on tree limbs and so much more.

So you see all these “fancy things” aren’t fancy. It’s basic control so you can ensure safety. I’ve had so many people refuse to go to clinics, take lessons or just work and expand their horse’s knowledge and control because, well “it’s just a trail horse. All you need to do is point and shoot down the trail”. But when you have countless scenarios that can happen, unknown obstacles and more having true control of a horse is the only way to ensure your safety. It doesn’t matter how gentle a horse is, without control of their body and feet you can’t promise safety for your horse. Your horse may step on that slippery rock and fall (which is how I broke my leg on day 3 of a 10 pack trip in the back country). All the times I’ve been injured riding a horse (or a horse has been injured) is because of the lack of control I had and the horse has made a bad step, fall or decision.

Buck is 100% correct with saying “These folks who say, Nah, I don't need all that fancy riding stuff. I just want to trail ride.
That's like saying, I'm going to die out in the trees instead of in the arena.”

Most injuries happen from lack of control.
Control = safety

08/15/2024

“They’re just a trail horse”

It always pets my peeves just a little when you try to encourage someone to work with their horse more and gain more control and you get the “he’s just a trail horse. He doesn’t need all of that fancy stuff”. First off having full control of your horses body isn’t “fancy stuff” it’s the basics. Second off, trail horses need to be some of the most well equipped horses mentally and physically for the job. There are countless scenarios, environments and obstacles your horse needs to overcome. So being able to control where you put your horses feet is CRUCIAL for your safety and THEIRS. Even my well trained, been there done that ranch horses have encountered obstacles on the trail they are unsure of. I can rope a bull and drag it into a trailer, halter break 1,200 colts, ride down a highway on Reba, but the first time we encountered a bridge over water she was having second thoughts.

There’s a lot of rough country that I’ve ridden on my horses and there’s only been two times in my life while riding my finished horses that I felt the need to step off and lead my horse through an obstacle because I felt it was unsafe to do so. I don’t ever really ever have many scenarios or obstacles (even new ones) that I’ve encountered where I don’t trust my finished horses to carry me through safely. The reason why is because I have control of where my horses feet go. If I come across a big slick rock in the trail I can tell my horse to take their left front foot and step over the rock and not on it. If I come across a bridge with a giant hole in it I can tell my horses to step over not in it. If I come to a sketchy part of the trail I don’t have to question my horses footing because I can evaluate and tell my horse where their feet go to ensure our safety. I can move my horses ribs so my legs don’t get caught on tree limbs and so much more.

So you see all these “fancy things” aren’t fancy. It’s basic control so you can ensure safety. I’ve had so many people refuse to go to clinics, take lessons or just work and expand their horse’s knowledge and control because, well “it’s just a trail horse. All you need to do is point and shoot down the trail”. But when you have countless scenarios that can happen, unknown obstacles and more having true control of a horse is the only way to ensure your safety. It doesn’t matter how gentle a horse is, without control of their body and feet you can’t promise safety for your horse. Your horse may step on that slippery rock and fall (which is how I broke my leg on day 3 of a 10 pack trip in the back country). All the times I’ve been injured riding a horse (or a horse has been injured) is because of the lack of control I had and the horse has made a bad step, fall or decision.

Buck is 100% correct with saying “These folks who say, Nah, I don't need all that fancy riding stuff. I just want to trail ride.
That's like saying, I'm going to die out in the trees instead of in the arena.”

Most Injuries happen from lack of control.
Control = Safety

08/15/2024

08/15/2024

𝐀 𝐋𝐢𝐭𝐭𝐥𝐞 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐓𝐨𝐩𝐢𝐜 𝐨𝐟 𝐒𝐩𝐚𝐝𝐞𝐬
𝑶𝒑𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑻𝒉𝒐𝒖𝒈𝒉𝒕𝒔
The Spade bit is not a harsh tool nor a cruel one. It is a grossly misunderstood bit that works by conferring subtle signals to the horse rather than working off force and leverage. The Spade bit is actually lighter than most bits on the horse. Though it may look like a pretty leverage bit, even having the same shank design more often than not…it is VASTLY different. It should be established that when I refer to spade bits within this article I refer to Spades of either a 3.5 inch height or higher. These bits do not work off leverage….they actually take leverage away from the rider! Furthermore, these bits work off the hardy thick upper palate in the horse’s mouth. Half breeds and many other “cow horse” bits of a shorter height (generally 2-3 inches) hit sensitive soft palate and can even break the paper thin nasal bone and bleed through the nose. These bits work way different than y’all think!

Spade bits work on a whole plethora of signals…that's why they look so big and daunting. The first signal to address is the loose jaw. Most good spade bits are attached to the cheeks of the bit with a J box which is a loose connection. Over time this connection gets a bit looser and jiggles. This makes it so that the rider can pick up the reins and jiggle the bit before any real contact is made. Having a loosely done slobber bar or chains also helps to facilitate the movement better. The mouthpiece has a lot as far as signals. The straight bar of the bit means the iron rests lower on the horse’s more dextrous section of the tongue. This entices the horse to pick up the bit with their tongue and better receive all the signals of the mouthpiece. The cricket or roller in the bit also plays a huge part in making the horse pick up on signals, it helps calm them when not working, but also strengthen their tongue to help them hold the bit. Holding the bit does not merely mean holding the bit with their tongue…the horse is sucking the bit in and really holding it tightly. A good bridle horse will hold his bit without a bridle over the ears, 𝐓𝐇𝐈𝐒 is what makes a horse pick up on signals.

𝐌𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐜𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐌𝐨𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐩𝐢𝐞𝐜𝐞
The tip top of the spade bit is called the spade. It comes in a few different shapes with and without rollers. The more surface area, the lighter it is on the horse….although making it too big risks hitting the back teeth. The Spade (top of the mouthpiece) is held by the horse’s tongue and is the first signal, with spade heights that exceed purchase height, the spade may move a hair before the bit itself, further lending to the signals. Below the spade are copper wrapped braces. These are independent to the spade and should not be welded anywhere, they are meant to move and be loose. After the spade moves, the braces move at the same time if not shortly after as another signal. They work on the tongue by the spade as well as by the lips as they touch the corners of the mouth. After this, the bit actually moves and the rest of the halfbreed and cricket move. Right after this, the curb strap should start to be enacted so as to limit the movement of the spade, so it stays where it belongs. Generally the curb strap should start to make contact on the chin if the Spade is touching the hard palate. If a further pull is enacted, palate pressure increases, poll pressure from the headstall is enacted, and pressure on the tongue and bars backwards towards the rider is enacted. These bits have so many signals to them to prevent the final pull.

𝐂𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐫 𝐅𝐫𝐨𝐧𝐭 𝐒𝐞𝐭
Center set mouthpieces like Las Cruces or Crescent Moon put pressure on the tongue and constantly ask for a spanish headset. They are also rather quick in their signals. Bits like this should be reserved for very touchy collected horses..the everyday downward built ranchy quarter horse is not made to get along with them. Santa Barbara bits (or bits with a similar shape such as a kissing bird or Santa Paula) have a forward set mouthpiece and will likely be the best for the everyday ranch horse. They accommodate the fatter tongue, they do not ask for a headset nearly as much, they have a slightly slower signal for the horse to follow, and they do not excessively move with the action of the horse, at least not nearly as much as the other bits mentioned.

𝐋𝐢𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐁𝐢𝐭
As far as “liking” the Salinas (or any other short mouthpiece) vs the Spade...horses will like the bit they can most easily disregard. This is not to say the bike chain wire bit from hell is what your horse likes…it is merely to point out that the owner's interpretation is often made in tunnel vision. Evaluate the horse’s body language, their eyes, their slobber, if they play with the bit, etc. Horses are also lazy, so it only makes sense that bits that require the horse to hold may not be liked from the get go. Holding the bit is difficult for the horse, it takes time and muscle development. This is one of the many purposes for the cricket, to help strengthen the tongue to make it easier for the horse to pick up their bit. Some horses may just need to get used to a bit at first and that alone can be interpreted as the horse “disliking” the bit. It is important to try and work with the bit you have for more than one ride before buying another because your horse “doesn't like” it.

𝐑𝐞𝐢𝐧 𝐂𝐡𝐚𝐢𝐧𝐬
Regarding reins, I have read that some sort of shorter (6-11 inch) rein chains are used to help the bit move more in rhythm with the horse. I say shorter because the chains of the Old Time Californios were around 16 inches…but their horses were longer necked and just built differently from today's compact horses. The chains are meant for signals (as we all know) but they are also meant to swing in rhythm with the horse and help the horse calm down with the bit. They help the horse relax with the bit and learn to move their head naturally and find the release. They also help to let the bit hang more naturally since rawhide reins will likely be pushing down trying to be straight. With chains, the push of the rawhide can be downward, the chain will allow this and swing in harmony with the horse.

Getting the horse used to rein chains can be a chore. Some horses can't or won't find their rhythm in the chains. With horses like this, take a little piece of leather and tie the chains together under their neck with 6 inches in between the chains. The point where the leather ties the rein chains together should be the middle of the length of the chain. Doing this will force the rein chains to swing in better harmony and essentially dumb it down for the horse. I have heard this called “Portegeeing” although I don’t know of a legitimate name.

𝐏𝐚𝐜𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠
I think introducing the spade should be simple. Put it in WITHOUT chains or rein....JUST the bit and curb. And ride the horse out on a long trail trotting and loping with a bosalita. Ideally the bit becomes secondary to the trail and other stimuli. Doing this helps the horse not overthink and allocate their focus elsewhere while also helping break the horse to the idea of holding the bit. After a few long trails like this, the horse will likely learn to hold the bit, or at the very least keep their mouth shut. Sometimes horses overthink and freak out in a two rein… they may just be too focused on the bit and need the proper time to learn how to hold the thing before adding reins and other things to it. Some vaqueros packed the bit around for a few months…take your time.

𝐂𝐮𝐫𝐛 𝐒𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐩 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐂𝐨𝐦𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐭
Adjusting the curb strap snug is a very nice way to help limit the spade's movement and make it simpler for the horse. In addition, putting the spade low enough to graze the canine teeth entices the horse to pick the bit up with the lower, dextrous part of their tongue. Do not put it low enough to straight up hit the teeth, just low enough that a slight tug on the slobber bar can tap the teeth. We don’t want to hit teeth because it hurts, but we want the horse to find picking up the bit to be a much nicer action than letting it hang.

𝐂𝐡𝐞𝐜𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠
Checking your horse with the Spade is an AMAZING way to help them learn where release is. While holding the horse, drap the rein over the horn…there should hardly be any contact. Position yourself by the side of the saddle and lift the reins, only giving to the horse when he gives to you. After doing this a couple times, it should be safe to check the horse with real contact onto the saddle horn. DO NOT make the contact so much that a vertical head is the release point. Very often the horse may over-collect and put strain on their neck to try and avoid the bit. When riding, this is particularly troublesome given that overcollection limits the action of the pelvis in the horse. This means that they can’t fold their legs under themselves and properly slide or pivot. Never check your horse and leave. Do not tie the horse tightly to a tie rail (unless you have a lunging cavesson, but even then don't). Whenever I do it, my horse’s lead is draped over the tie post and I sit nearby playing guitar.

𝐄𝐯𝐚𝐥𝐮𝐚𝐭𝐞
Look at your spade. If it is 3.5 + inches then it will not hit the soft palate, if it is a 2-3 inch spade...it likely grazes paper thin bone and nerves. This hurts the horse. Also, the spade’s size determines the severity. If it is an Alligator Spade (much narrower Spade) it is more severe than a Spoon Spade (much wider spade). The angle of the braces also has an effect on hitting teeth and irritating the horse, consider trying lower, closer set braces that follow the cannon bar more. Many old time Vaqueros stand by the idea of a triangular spade bit, that is a bit that has steep braces and forms a triangle in the horse’s mouth. This tends to be an outdated preference with the modern conformation of the horse’s mouth. Some horses may have canines too far up in their mouth that the lower set Spade bit will never fit them properly, in that case…consider purchasing a simpler bit or a spade bit without braces.
Consider that the horse may just prefer his hackamore and needs time (and molasses) to learn to like the bit.

𝐌𝐲 𝐎𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐢𝐨𝐧
I think riding just packing it for a while without reins or anything would be the best option for future Spade bit horses. Then after the horse doesn't seem to care, I check him to his horn a handful of times. After that I introduce the two rein after a long sweaty workout keeping in mind the idea that I don’t want the bit to be so important that the horse can't focus on anything else. A few times I may manually check the horse from a standstill while mounted and make sure the horse knows how to give to the bit. After some long trails, the horse would be ready to begin actually training in the two rein. I figure that once the horse finds the rhythm of the chains, they are no longer afraid of the bit or ignorant to it…they should be able to start learning. Depending on the horse I may Portegee my reins while on trail although it depends on how crazy I intend on going, usually long flat trails do better without. The timeline should be no sooner than 6 months of packing before actually using the two rein. General rule of thumb is a year, I agree in many cases but horse training is not a one-size-fits-all process and some horses may need more or less time.

𝐒𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐤 𝐏𝐫𝐞𝐟𝐞𝐫𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐞𝐬
I think the best Spades Shanks are Santa Barbara shanks (or something close in shape) instead of a Crescent moon or Nevada. I find the center strung bits like Crescent Moon and Las Cruces to really work poorly for a large majority of horses. These bits tend to move a lot like a pendulum, and to me they diminish the signal...it's almost a static in the lines sort of situation. Nevada bits are a hit or miss but sometimes they move around a lot...and when they do, they do a lot. Nevada bits aren't bad, my champion horse uses one...but in my experience they are a roll of the dice depending on the horse and reins.

𝐒𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐖𝐚𝐲 𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐲 𝐀𝐫𝐞
Your horse may never be a spade bit horse…my world champion horse isn’t. Your horse may never hold the bit, one of my best horses never holds his bit. I've tried everything and time but to no avail. Perhaps that is what is meant when the old cowboys say not every horse is a spade bit horse. Ironically though, he rides in a spade! Don't worry too much about holding the bit or making it to the spade; some horses are just not meant for it. It is not a factor of lesser or greater talent, it is a matter of the horse’s individuality and uniqueness. If the horse is reining, sliding, and turning cows....I suppose it doesn't matter if they are in a Spade or holding the bit anyhow!
Good luck with your horse!

Written by: Johnny Flores Johnny Flores Horses

The Old Spanish Trading Co.

08/12/2024

One of my favorite things to do when halter breaking colts (especially more reactive ones) is to work them from the back of a good, broke (not gentle) saddle horse. They can gain confidence through the saddle horse and realize that things aren’t as scary as they think they are. Special shoutout to Reba being the best horse to help halter break colts on.

08/05/2024

Frankie is coming right along in his training! Working on relaxed and controlled movement as well at maintaining focus. He’s going to make someone an awesome horse! Frankie will be available after he’s done with training with me through Embrace Equine Ministry - Wild Hope

08/03/2024

Tools of the trade.

There are many tools available for training horses. Some tools have been deemed abusive like spurs, certain bits, whips, crops, flags etc. Many people have labeled these tools as abusive because they have only seen them used in an abusive manner. The thing is that these tools used to train horses are an extension of the trainer. If you use a whip to beat on a horse it’s not the whip that caused abuse it was the handler. That person could have done the same thing with a lead rope. The manner of which the tool is used lies in the hands of the trainer not the tool itself. Can you blame the pen or paper for a hurtful letter from another person? No you can’t. Your tools you use are an extension of you and how you use them. If you have a horse that is afraid of whips you cannot blame the whip you can only blame yourself. If you have good feel, timing and softness you can create some amazing horses using these tools as an extension from you to aid in communication to the horse.

08/03/2024

Reba and I representing the Priest River Valley Back Country Horseman!

08/02/2024

Frankie is coming along well in his training. Been testing his temperament a lot lately seeing what he can handle. Nothing really phases him and he will have some pretty amazing potential to be someone’s all around horse or even a kids horse SOMEDAY (that does not mean while still green). He’s a thinker and laid back soul and whoever ends up with this guy will have a great horse.

Frankie will be available when he is done training with me through Embrace Equine Ministry - Wild Hope

07/27/2024

07/19/2024

Hay needed!

The gift of hay is more than just sustenance for these life-changing animals; it allows us to continue our work, touching lives and sharing the unconditional love of Jesus.

We humbly ask for your support through donations of hay. Your generosity will directly support our mission by fulfilling an everyday need of the ministry. Together, with your help, we can continue to make a meaningful impact in the lives of those who need it most in our community.

Thank you for considering a donation to our ministry!

To reach out regarding hay:
[email protected]
-or-
www.embraceequineministry.org
-or-
208-352-0607

07/18/2024

We’re all moved into our new facility and hitting the ground running with clients!

Everyone meet Frankie. He is here to get started under saddle with me and will be available when his training is complete. Frankie is a 3 year old, 14.2 HH gelding who has papers but they are not transferred so will be “grade”.

Frankie was donated to Embrace equine ministry to be trained and find a home as a fundraiser. Embrace is an amazing ministry that works with Union Gospel Mission and other troubled family and youth programs to use horses as a form of healing and therapy. I have been apart of Embrace ministry since November and volunteered to be apart of this fundraiser for them. Follow Frankie’s progress as we get him going and give him a solid foundation so that he’s ready to go in whatever direction when he’s finished with his initial training here with me.

07/03/2024

It’s not your neighbors problem that you have horses.

Independence Day is tomorrow and you can’t stop an entire nation from celebrating its freedom. Independence Day is a pretty big holiday in the USA and it’s a pretty big deal! But as a horse owner it is 100% your responsibility ALONE to insure your horses safety and well being. It’s not like the 4th of July is some surprise holiday that randomly people start setting off fireworks and making loud noises. You KNEW it was coming and if you did nothing to plan and prep your horses for that it’s nobody’s fault but your own.

You cannot control other peoples actions or behaviors, You can however control how you utilize your time and prep your horses for a stressful event. There’s no reason to try and p**p on everyone else’s party due to your lack of planning and preparation for an event like this.

Celebrating our nations freedom is something everyone should be able to partake in RESPONSIBLY. This post is not referring to people who irresponsibly light fires, set off illegal fireworks, drink and drive or other irresponsible activities. This is about your neighbors just trying to enjoy our nations independence with their friends and family setting off fireworks and enjoying their day. If your horse can’t handle mortars being set off or a 5 year old with a sparkler that’s a reflection on you and how you care for them. If your horses safety should be your priority, and if you aren’t prepping your horse accordingly for this and blaming others, their safety is not your priority.

Everyone have a happy Independence Day! Have fun, be safe and be RESPONSIBLE. 🇺🇸🎆🎇🧨

05/19/2024

Our Beginners Ranch Roping clinic was a success. We had a great day teaching about the fundamentals of ranch roping plus a little fun with flag work at the end. Thank you Sarah McDaniel Horsemanship for hosting this clinic and a special shouldout to Stache Ranch for coming out and being an extra set of hands for helping out! Had a great time and looking forward to our future clinics together. Oh and thank you Abigail Knudtson for taking pictures of our event!

04/25/2024

Hobble breaking.

Hobble breaking and roping a horses feet are controversial in the horse industry to say the least. Hobble breaking is an essential tool for your horses and is something I require all horses that come through my program to go through.

Many people see roping and hobble breaking a horse as abuse. In my experience those are the people that cannot comprehend their horses being in a situation where it would be beneficial for the horse. They keep their horses at boarding facilities with well monitored and maintained pastures, arenas and trails so it never crossed their mind of a horses legs getting caught. But when it comes to ranching and cowboying it’s not a matter of if your horses feet get tangled in wire, it’s WHEN.

Below are some photos I’ve gathered showing exactly why roping a horses feet and hobble breaking is not just beneficial to a horse, but it’s life saving. (First two photos of my personal horses. The rest are photos used from other horse owners with permission) You can see in this photos of the horses tangled how minimal cuts and scrapes where attained while stuck. One of the photos shows the aftermath of one of our horses getting caught in barbed wire while gathering cattle. My husband was 3 1/2 hours from the nearest vet out on the desert trotting out to get cattle when he went through rusty downed barbed wire he couldn’t see. Cricket stopped as soon as she realized that she was stuck she stopped and waited for my husband to untangle her. She had sliced her artery in half and it’s a miracle cricket is still alive to this day. If I hadn’t taken the time to rope her feet and hobble break her the outcome of this situation would have been devastatingly different. More likely than not she would have panicked due to her feet being stuck and would have gotten more tangled in the wire.

This is a prime example why all of the horses I work with WILL be hobble broke. Taking the time to put your horses in a controlled environment at home to simulate this scenario to teach them to stop, process and think through this situation has saved countless horses lives. To me teaching a horse to give their legs to pressure is no different than teaching a horse to stand with their head tied in a halter. If you don’t teach your horse to stand tied properly and give to pressure you run the risk of them setting back and breaking their neck. My opinion on things like this is if you are training a horse in such a way that is in the horses best interest for their safety you can’t be wrong.

Video on how I hobble break my horses on my YouTube here ⬇️

https://youtu.be/5UgcfD0xUqI?feature=shared

04/21/2024

There’s no excuse for your horses not to stand still for the farrier.

All my horses were all once feral or semi feral horses. Every one I can ground tie, trim and shoe all their feet without them ripping a foot away, leaning on me, stumbling, pawing, whinnying at other horses or dancing around. They stand respectively and quiet until the job is done.

How do you get your horses to stand for the farrier? Handle their feet. “I handle their feet every time I ride! I pick every foot out!” Picking your horses feet isn’t handling their feet. Most the time horses have issues with standing for the farrier is not because they can’t pick a foot up, but because they can’t stand for a period of time with a foot up, or they don’t like the feeling of the tools of the farrier.

Handle your horses feet in such a way that actually prepared them for their feet to be worked on, not just picked up. Hold their feet up for extended periods of time. When the horse tries to rip the foot away don’t let them. If a horse moves around keep the leg up until they stand. Basically hold the foot up until they are quiet then put it down.

Your farrier is NOT your trainer. They are there to do a specific job and training your horses for them to do their job isn’t apart of it. It’s your job as an owner to make sure the professional you hired is able to do their job. You don’t hire an electrician to come and do some wiring and when they show up say “oh hey by the way you have to build the house too”.

04/21/2024

A few spots opened up for our clinic may 18!

Update, 2 spots available
Get in the wait list, or come audit.
Limited space, accepting $50 deposits (to the Sara with no "h" 😉) now.
Newport, WA location.
$150.