Hoof trimming for function. Introduction

07/21/2024

I have designed a new composite horseshoe that I am very excited about. I am confident that this design will catch the attention of the equine world. I have already secured a provisional patent.
The Living Shoe
Introducing the living shoe. I am developing this shoe in hope of solving some of the problems with today’s/present issues with hoof protection devices.
Hoof protection has been around probably as long as humans have domesticated horses.
In the past hoof protection was dominated by iron and nails, which was great for the technology at the time.
As Science, medical, technical, and mechanical has improved so has hoof protection.
Iron shoes have made great strides in the attempt and success of the horses' ability to perform. Iron shoes were developed and still are being develops to address lameness issues and conformational issues.
The drawback about nails and iron is the restriction of the horses' foot/hoof to function properly.
There has been a huge movement (rightfully so) to give the horse its ability to let the foot function naturally.
One of the movements has been coined “barefoot.” I myself have a horse who very seldom needs hoof protection, but the reality of it is 99% of horses will need or should hoof protection at sone point in their lives.
Another movement for hoof protection has been hoof boots. In 1969, Dr Neil Glass developed the “Easyboot.” On the current market there are literally hundreds of different boots, composites, and poly composites available. Glue-On’s or nailed on. You might be surprised to know that the first possible composite shoe was patented in 1861.
Boots and composites have come along way protecting the foot and not restricting foot function as much as iron and nails.
As with iron and nails boots and composites come with draw backs. In many ways more so than just nailing on an iron shoe. Boots need to be put on and taken off every time you ride, If the fit isn’t precise, they will cause injury, come off and be lost, they can be difficult to put on and take off, even if you have a good fit, they are not the best for performance horses and the initial cost is high.
Glue Ons have their own set of problems. They are expensive, many have glue bonding issues, preparation is important and takes extra time compared to shaping an iron shoe. Depending on the make and model of the composite, fitting may be an issue.
Nailing on composite shoes can be discouraging also. The fit has to be correct for nailing. If you can’t find the correct size, nailing on a composite will not be possible. Using nails is a problem in itself. No matter how you look at it, nailing into something compromises that structure.
What it comes down to is what the horse owner, vet and hoof care professional think is best for the horse.
But there is a huge problem to overcome, domestication. Horses in the wild (comparatively speaking) have none of the hoof problems are domesticated equines do. We could debate all the reasons why, but we need a solution, not an argument.

The living horseshoe design is unique. A composite/glue on shoe that it mimics the way the horse’s foot functions naturally better than and different than anything on the current market.




In fig1. Solar surface; highlights concavity on the bottom of the shoe. The concavity doesn’t start at the perimeter of the shoe. The concavity starts it downward slope at 20mm in from the perimeter to the open sole. Depth of the concavity from where it starts is 6mm. The treads are 3mm in from where the concavity starts. It is 5mm wide on the surface and angles down to 2.5mm wide at the bottom. The concavity allows the shoe to flex and particles that might otherwise be packed in the tread will come out readily. The treads at the heel are placed at a 90% angle from the perimeter trads for traction moving forward. The oversized frog support is 2mm below the superior surface of the shoe and at the same elevation where the deepest part of where concavity ends. The small gap allows for the decent of the frog to make contact with the frog support more naturally. Another feature of the frog support is the tread in the location of the center sulcus. It is 20mm long, 12mm wide sloping down to a flat surface of 12mm long and 6mm wide. This will stimulate the natural function of the frog. A tab will be attached at the apex of the frog support to the inner part of the front of the shoe for support of the shoe structure. Heel groves allow for the shoe to expand upon loading/weight bearing of the foot.
In fig.2 Lateral view; highlights the camber arch of the foot that occurs naturally enhancing foot function. Camber at the toe starts at the 10 and 2 position and ends 32 mm before the back of the shoe.
The anterior of the of the shoe is rolled from the 10 to 2 for break over as occurs naturally. There will be an 45% angle at the heel. 6mm in towards the toe and 6mm up towards the superior surface of the shoe allowing for smoother landings. The polyurethane material of the shoe will allow for different cuffs or tabs of choice to be heat welded on either at the time of manufacture or DIY applications.

In fig.3 Posterior view; highlights the concavity of the shoe and the heel expansion groves.
The living horseshoe is designed to enhance, stimulate, and protect equines feet. Applied with glue-on cuff or tabs. As highlighted in Figures 1-3 concavity of the solar surface, camber from 10-2 position to 32mm before the back of the shoe. The self-cleaning tread design, the heel expansion groves, the frog support, and the center sulcus frog stimulation design. The living shoe can be used for all disciplines of equestrian activities. The living shoe can also be used for equines that have movement problems and lameness issues. Rehabilitation for navicular, laminitis, and other problems where stimulation/enhancement of foot function is needed. Application of the living horseshoe is not complicated. The following instructions are important. Knowledge of foot function, anatomy, and natural hoof trimming is important.
The hoof wall must be trimmed for natural foot function as allowed by any hoof pathologies current. The hoof wall surface must be prepared to accept gluing. Different sizes will be available and that is important for a successful application. Because of the polyurethane material, modification for fit and function can be done in the field.
Traditional iron and nailed-on horseshoes fall short of allowing foot function almost on every level. Hoof boots allow foot function but do not function with the foot. The only product that comes close is the current polyurethane horseshoes but fall short of the shoe functioning with their feet. The current designs do not function with the natural function of the feet. This impedes optimal foot function. The current polyurethane shoe designs lack the ability to function with the foot and can also lead to shoes coming off. The living horseshoe design is an upgraded design designed to enhance and complement natural foot function.

For those of you that are interested and don't want to wait for a manufacture to pick this up and go with it PM me and I will show you how I modified a versa shoe to make it. I have already tested the modification on a few horses, and it holds up just fine.
If you like it, please share.

07/18/2024

I added the findings of the bench test below.
Glue on Field testing
I was able to test gluing on three different horses. I was able to test the stealth cuffs, Octo tabs, 3D.s and a set of versa glues.
I put a set of stealth’s on the front feet of one horse and the Octo’s on that horse's hind feet. The tabs were heat welded on the Octo’s and the stealth’s. As with the bench testing, a very precise trim was done. As we all know prep-work is very important but, you can’t always use power tools on every subject. For this horse I am able to use power tools. I used the buffy and torch. The torch was only used to burn off excess, unseen debris. Not for removing moisture. The fit was precise.
I have developed a method for modifying the shoe. This picture says it all. I will go into more detail in another post.

The step by step for the stealth cuffs and Octo tabs were a such. Rasping the hoof wall surface. Removing any flares and growth rings. Wire brush of debris. Buffy smooth hoof wall surface. Quickly torch over surface three times and wire brush in between each pass with fine bristle wire brush. I didn’t use any alcohol for this application.

I used the Maxi-cure glue and the electric tape to secure cuffs/tabs.
Personally, Using the electric tape and wrapping the hoof this way is the secret to success for super gluing. After removing the tape (about 30 minutes) I sealed the hoof with a coat of super glue.
We checked the status of the shoes daily. The Octo’s failed within the first week and the stealth’s failed in about three weeks. The cause of the failure was not the bond of the super glue (maybe) but at the weld of both the Stealth and the Octo. Looks like I need more practice at welding.
The horse I used the 3D’s on doesn’t tolerate power tools or using the torch. Instead of using the buffy and torch I used a sanding block and the fine bristled wire brush. On the front and left hind, I very lightly sprayed with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
After 3 weeks the right (no alcohol) failed. The left side (almost 6 weeks is staying bonded with absolutely no signs of failure.
The third horse we applied the versa glue-on with easybond (equilux.) The perp work was done the same way we did the first horse. With the buffy and the torch. I have used the adhere in the past and found that although it works fine it can be hard and messy to work with (sets up too fast.) I am impressed with easybond. Easy to work with, a lot less messy and much more flexible.

The bond is staying strong with no signs of failure. This horse does have some flaring that can’t be easily rasped away.
Things to take into consideration. The glues flexibility. Super glues are brittle and with higher torques failure is more likely.
The horse's trim. I am a natural hoof care professional. I trim for foot function foremost, not how well a shoe is going to stay on. The three horses in this study are my horses and have excellent foot function and will contribute to torque between the hoof wall and cuff/tabs.
The landscape/ terrain and environment. It’s hot and very dry (I really don’t think this is a significant factor.)
Most people would consider a rocky terrain the most unforgiving and I would agree that a rocky terrain is unforgiving and will test the bond. My (undocumented) experience on rocky trails in the mountains have been a great test for super glue and adhere glues. Both glues worked well with minimal bond failures.
The failures I witnessed in this test had nothing to do with rocky terrain. This landscape was unique that much of the pasture was muddy and boggy (about half of it) before we applied shoes. They roamed all it (dry and wet) about 60 acers. This led to deep impressions in the dirt from anywhere to 4 inches to 12 inches. I suspect that when they stepped in these impressions it would put a lot of torque on the shoe causing failure. The shoes with easybond stayed strong and the tabs that were sprayed lightly with alcohol also stayed strong.
I am more impressed with easybond for assurance against bond failure for now but will continue to experiment with super glues. The company that makes Maxi-cure has two types of super glue with rubber infused and that is where I’ll be going next.

Super glue bench test

The first test I did I used a sanding block and wire brushed thoroughly. On one tab I applied the easy care maxicure extra thick. On another tab I used rubber Super Glue. Made by the same company that supplies easycare. I used black electric tape to secure the tabs to the hoof wall then wrapped in plastic wrap and let cure for 4 hours both seemed very secure, but I was able to peel them off with my fingers.

The second test I use the same process as the first test with the exception of cleaning the hoof with rubbing alcohol the tab with The maxicure adhered securely and had to be removed with Nippers the tab with the rubber Super Glue was easy to remove by hand.

The third test I used the fine side of a farriers rasp to clean the hoof and thoroughly wire brush I cleaned up the tabs with a Dremel and use one new tab the tabs that I cleaned with the Dremel both Max secure and the rubber Super Glue was securely adhered the new tab peeled off easily. There were slight growth rings in the hoof wall which I smoothed out with the rasp.
The fourth test I did the same procedure with the farriers rasp and cleaned with alcohol with the same results as test 3.
Note I cleaned tabs that I dremeled with alcohol before gluing.

The fifth test. I used the buffy to clean off the glue from the previous tests. I used a torch to burn off excess and loose particles. I dremeled the tabs and cleaned them with alcohol. I did not use alcohol to clean the hoof wall. I used Maxicure on three tabs and rubber Super Glue on three tabs. Secured the tabs with electric tape first on the lower end of the tab and the upper end of the tab then secured all the tabs tightly with electrical tape covering most of the hoof wall let it set up for five full minutes. I removed the electric tape. The electric tape came off easily without pulling any tabs loose then used super glue maxicure to seal edges on the Maxicure tabs then used rubber Super Glue to seal edges of the tabs with the rubber super glue.

The fifth test was successful. This test brings with it more questions. Was it the buffy that made the difference, the torch, or the way I secured the tabs?

I feel that smoothing out the growth rings is significant.
Getting the hoof wall clean loose particles. I feel the way I secured the tabs played a big role in the success.

Clearly test four works, but in the field one cannot always use the buffy or torch on some horses.
What I think will work in these cases would be this:
Using the fine side of the rasp smooth out the hoof wall and clean with a fine bristled wire brush. Then use a 100-grit sanding block and repeat the process of the rasp. Wire brushing will be very important to remove loose particles. I’m not sold on using alcohol yet but will include that in my field testing. I think the way I secured the tabs is the biggie here.

The maxicure glue seemed, at first to outperform the rubber glue until I did the fifth test which showed they both work well. The rubber glue takes longer to set up.

01/01/2024

For those of you that having problems with the hoof sliding forward while trying to apply a versa glue shoe here's a idea for you. I presented it to Easycare's Garret Ford for review.

05/01/2021

05/01/2021

We are now offering Hoof Care Trimming for Function clinics in Riverton WY, Driggs ID, and in Summerset SD. If you would like have a clinic in your area and for information about the up coming clinics contact me at 307 855 5979 text messages are welcome.

05/01/2021

05/01/2021