Pawsitive Pup Training

Pawsitive Pup Training Pawsitive Pup Training is a Certified Dog Trainer in Wilmington, NC led by Lainie Johnston.

Pawsitive Pup Training is a Certified Force Free Dog Trainer in Wilmington, NC providing Puppy Socialization, Pawsitive Dog Behavior, General Obedience, Behavior Modification for Fear and Aggression and help for Expecting and Toddler families. We provide Personalized Puppy Socialization, Pawsitive Dog Behavior, General Obedience, and Parent Education for Expecting and Toddler families.

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04/22/2025

Good info

SOMETIMES MANAGEMENT IS ALL YOU NEED!

Occasionally you may read online that those who advise clients to use management are failing dogs because management alone does not fix a problem behaviour.

Accusations are made that many clients get stuck in management, and in some instances, this isn’t wrong.

By ‘management’ we refer to preventing a problem behaviour by making it difficult or impossible for a dog to do, by managing the environment or by managing our behaviour, such as by avoiding the situations or contexts our dogs find difficult.

Examples include;

➡️ Putting a stair gate across the bottom of the stairs to stop a dog going upstairs.

➡️ Keeping the kitchen sides clear when not in use to prevent counter surfing.

➡️ Using a long line to prevent your dog ignoring their recall.

Indeed, management alone may not reduce or resolve many problem behaviours, especially those largely motivated by a learned component.

As an example;

➡️ Avoiding other dogs with your dog who has been ‘reactive’ for years reduces how often your dog reacts, but your dog will likely still react when they next see a dog.

🤔 How and when is management helpful?

1️⃣ Management is helpful for behaviours influenced by development periods or phases.
It prevents a behaviour influenced by development phases being rewarded.

Some examples;

➡️ You tidy shoes away so your curious puppy doesn’t chew them. As your puppy passes this phase, their motivation to chew shoes will likely have passed.

➡️ Your adolescent dog has a sudden onset of fear that may be motivated by their development. Something that is referred to as 'fear periods'.

Management, such as by taking a couple of quiet weeks with your dog and avoiding busy environments, can prevent negative associations being made.

➡️ Similarly, a female dog in the phantom pregnancy stage of their oestrus cycle may benefit from some management until their hormones level out again and the risk of behaviours, such as resource guarding or increased aggression towards dogs decreases.

This latter example is why you'll see my senior dog Kanita have a short drag line attached to her on walks at present- as she randomly came into season for the first time and this is unchartered territory for us.


2️⃣ Management is helpful in reducing stress.
Sometimes, an undesired behaviour problem is motivated by high levels of stress.
Bring those stress levels down with management, and some behaviour problems can dissipate because the motivating factor has been addressed.

An example;

➡️ When Amigo (tan dog, ex stray from Malaga) arrived into my home we fed the dogs separately to reduce the risk of conflict caused by stress. Whilst we always feed with space between them, now he’s settled in no barriers are needed.

➡️ When I first gave him toys a few weeks after his arrival he would guard them from Mohawk and Kanita. He would position himself with a toy in a doorway, so to make the situation as predictable as possible (he can easily see the others approach) and guard.
We took all toys indoors away for months.

Now he’s fully settled in he has free access to toys and never guards them. Training wasn’t needed and wasn't the solution.
He just needed time to settle in and feel safe.
Management helped his stress levels lower and for his relationship with the other dogs to become established enough for him to not feel anxious around resources.

3️⃣ Management is useful when there is too much to train!

Sometimes we have to remind clients that they don’t have to train EVERYTHING! Some things in their lives with their dogs can be easily managed without it inconveniencing or limiting the dog or humans.

For example;

➡️ It’s ok to put your dog behind a stair gate when the doorbell goes providing you can do it easily and without your dog being excessively stressed.

Training a dog to go to and wait on their bed in response to the doorbell is a big undertaking for many, and there may be other more important things clients should spend their time training.

I think dog professionals can sometimes forget that many dog owners do not have the same amount of time available to train their dogs as we do, plus knowing how to train doesn’t come so easily to them as it does for us.


🤔 Is there any time management is needed for the rest of a dog’s life?

In some instances, where a key motivating factor for a problem behaviour simply cannot be addressed, some level of ongoing management may be required.

Examples;

➡️ A dog has chronic pain or a health issue that cannot be fully addressed with medical treatment. This behaviour may compromise their ability to cope and inhibit their ability to learn desired behaviours. Such as a dog exhibiting defensive behaviour approached and anticipate being touched by unfamiliar people (The dog may anticipate that touch elicits or heightens pain).

Some level of management may be the most ethical option for such dogs.

➡️ An environment is not optimum for an individual dog. Such as a home environment or location being simply too much for the dog. For example, a dog living in a busy city centre may struggle to learn how to cope despite best efforts.

Driving such dogs to quiet walk locations may be the most ethical option.

🤔 When is management NOT helpful?

Management prevents potential reinforcement for undesired behaviours. However, the motivation for that behaviour may not decrease, despite management being used for X amount of time.

The dog can return to the problem behaviour as soon as management is eased.

This is where management should serve to create a window where alternative behaviours are taught and rewarded. Management is then gradually eased as a reinforcement history for the desired behaviour is established.

This motivates the desired behaviours in the context where the undesired behaviour once occurred.

Management can set the training up for success.

So, it’s still helpful! But it wont allways resolve the problem on its own.


Management is not a dirty word and has its place in behaviour change.

But we should be mindful that clients are not getting stuck using management that results in a diminished quality of life for them and their dog!

However, if an owner/guardian and their dog appears perfectly content with management, then it is not our place to say they should push for more!

04/21/2025

People often ask me about hu***ng, aka as mounting behavior. While many people assume it’s related to dominance or copulation, it is often associated with other activities and situations.

I had an adopted dog who would hump my other dog whenever she got excited, for example, we were getting ready to go to the park.

I often see puppies engaging in hu***ng behavior when playing. While it isn’t a bad behavior, it can become habitual, and I always encourage dog parents to try to evaluate why their dog is hu***ng and to discourage this behavior. After I give you some reasons why dogs hump, I’ll tell you what to do about it.

1. Normal Social or Play Behavior

Mounting can occur during play, regardless of s*x or reproductive status.

Bradshaw, J. (2011). Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You a Better Friend to Your Pet. Basic Books.
Mounting often appears in play between dogs and is not necessarily s*xual—it's more about excitement or a way of engaging with others. (Dr. John Bradshaw is an anthrozoologist.)

Bekoff, M. (2001). Social Play Behavior: Cooperation, Fairness, Trust, and the Evolution of Morality. Journal of Consciousness Studies, 8(2).

Mounting is observed in non-s*xual play contexts and helps dogs practice social roles.

(Dr. Marc Bekoff, PhD is a professor emeritus of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at the University of Colorado, Boulder, a Fellow of the Animal Behavior Society.)

2. Excitement or Overstimulation

Dogs may hump when they are overly excited or stimulated. This can happen during play, when meeting new people or animals, or in response to other stimulating situations. The behavior serves as an outlet for their heightened arousal levels.

Horwitz, D.F. (2006). Common Behavior Issues in Companion Animals. In Blackwell's Five-Minute Veterinary Consult: Canine and Feline Behavior

Dogs may mount due to excitement or emotional arousal, especially in stimulating environments like parks.

(Debra F. Horwitz, DVM, DACVB, has been board certified in veterinary behavior by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists for over 25 years.)

3. Displacement Behavior (Stress or Anxiety)

Some dogs hump when they're nervous or conflicted and don’t know what else to do.

Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats. CattleDog Publishing.

Displacement behaviors, such as mounting, can emerge when a dog is overwhelmed or unsure how to respond to a situation.

(The late Dr. Sophia Yin was a widely respected veterinarian and dog trainer. I was fortunate to have met and known her while she was still on this earth. Before the fear-free movement, there was stress-free handling, developed by Dr. Yin.)

4. Sexual Behavior

Yes, sometimes it is just plain s*xual—especially in intact (non-neutered) males or females in heat.

Overall, K.L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.

Sexual mounting remains more common in intact animals and may increase in presence of certain scents, cycles, or stimuli.

(Dr. Karen Overall, VMD, PhD, DACVB is a well-respected board-certified veterinary behaviorist.)

5. Habit or Reinforced Behavior

If it gets attention (even negative), a dog might continue hu***ng simply because it "works."

Pryor, K. (2002). Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training. Bantam.

Behaviors that are inadvertently reinforced—even with laughter or yelling—can become habitual.

Dog hu***ng, or mounting behavior, is a multifaceted action that can stem from various underlying causes. Recent studies and expert analyses from the past five years have shed light on the complexity of this behavior.

(The late Karen Pryor was a well known and respected author, animal trainer, and pioneer of clicker training who got her start in marine animal training in Hawaii where she and her husband founded Sea Life Park. Karen is the founder of the world renowned Karen Pryor Academy for Animal Training & Behavior.)

Additional resources:

Problematic Behaviors in Companion Dogs: A Survey of Their Prevalence and Associated Factors

This 2020 study in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior analyzed 401 companion dogs and found that mounting and hu***ng behaviors were more prevalent in adult dogs, small-sized breeds, indoor dogs, and single-dog households. The research highlights how factors like age, size, and living environment can influence mounting behavior.

Many Faces of Dominance: The Manifestation of Cohabiting Companion Dogs’ Rank in Competitive and Non-Competitive Scenarios

This 2024 study in Animal Cognition examined dominance behaviors among cohabiting dogs, including mounting. It provided insights into how mounting can be a display of social hierarchy rather than solely a s*xual behavior.

Association Between Training Methods and Owner-Reported Problem Behaviors in Dogs, Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 2024

This 2024 study explored factors associated with owners reporting problem behaviors in dogs. It found that certain training methods were linked to increased reports of behaviors such as mounting.

Silk, M. J., Cant, M. A., Cafazzo, S., Natoli, E., & McDonald, R. A. (2019). Elevated aggression is associated with uncertainty in a network of dog dominance interactions. Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, 286(1907), 20190536.

This research examines how uncertainty in dominance hierarchies among dogs correlates with increased aggression, providing context for behaviors such as mounting within social structures.

So, what do you do about it?

I teach my students and clients to use a positive interrupter.
Using a positive interrupter in dog training is a humane and effective method to interrupt unwanted behavior without resorting to punishment.

A positive interrupter is a distinct sound, word, or cue that gets the dog's attention in a positive way, often followed by redirection to a more appropriate behavior.

Examples of when I teach my clients to use a positive interrupter include hu***ng behavior. I once had a client who ran a child daycare in her home and I taught her to use a positive interrupter to stop the behavior.

I arbitrarily suggested she use the phrase, “Let’s do something else!” to interrupt the hu***ng, and it worked so well to stop the unwanted hu***ng behavior, she decided to use the phrase with the children in her daycare when they were engaging in unwanted behavior.

Other words or phrases you could use as a positive interrupter include, "oops" or "hey-hey!" I occasionally use these words when working with dogs that pull on leash to get their attention and let them know the leash is about to get tight as they forge out ahead.

Here’s why positive interrupters are useful, including references:

1. Interrupt Without Fear or Punishment

Positive interrupters avoid the negative side effects of aversive methods, such as fear, anxiety, or aggression.

Cooper, J.O., Heron, T.E., & Heward, W.L. (2020). Applied Behavior Analysis (3rd ed.). Pearson.

This foundational text explains the value of reinforcing desired behavior rather than punishing undesired ones. Interruption paired with redirection and reinforcement is a key strategy.

(Timothy E. Heron, Ed.D., is Professor Emeritus in the College of Education and Human Ecology at The Ohio State University. Heward, Ed.D., BCBA-D is a board-certified behavior analyst at Ohio State University and has a doctoral degree in education.)

2. Maintain a Strong Relationship

Because it’s based on positive reinforcement, it supports trust and strengthens the bond between dog and handler.

McConnell, P. (2002). The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs. Ballantine Books.

Emphasizes the importance of positive communication and trust in training, which positive interrupters help preserve.

(Dr. Patricia McConnel, PhD is a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist – CAAB. She is an author, speaker, and founder of her own publishing company.)

3. Efficient Behavior Redirection

Positive interrupters can quickly shift a dog’s focus, making it easier to redirect their energy toward a more acceptable activity.

Pryor, K. (2002). Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training. Bantam.

Describes using non-punitive ways to shape behavior, including interrupting undesired actions with cues that signal a chance for reinforcement. (Karen Pryor – bio above)

4. Prevents Escalation of Behavior

Rather than letting a dog continue an undesirable behavior until it becomes ingrained or dangerous, a positive interrupter can break the cycle early.

Friedman, S. G. (2009). What’s Wrong with this Picture? Effectiveness is Not Enough. Journal of Applied Companion Animal Behavior, 3(1).

Highlights the importance of using ethical, minimally intrusive methods to manage and modify behavior.

(Dr. Susan G. Friedman, Ph.D. is a professor emeritus in the Department of Psychology at Utah State University. She has helped pioneer the application of cross-species applied behavior analysis to animals, including dogs.)

Conclusion:

Hu***ng can be observed in play behavior, excitement/arousal, stress/anxiety. It can become habitual, especially if reinforced with attention. That is why it’s a good idea to interrupt the behavior with what we call a positive reinforcer and redirect the dog to something else.

Cindy Ludwig, M.A., B.S., R.N., KPA-CTP, CPDT-KA
Owner, Canine Connection LLC
Voted Best Springfield, Missouri Dog Trainer

04/20/2025

TERRIERS, HOUNDS and HUSBANDS

by Sally Bradbury

Why did we choose the dog that we have? What was it about that particular breed or cross or mixed breed that attracted us to him?
Often our choice is governed by size, their looks that please us, type of coat, shaggy, smooth, colour.

How many of us choose a breed because we actually like the behaviour that they have been specifically bred for over the generations?

Not the behaviour that we can read about in the breed club description of them:
Border Collie - excellent at herding sheep.
German Shepherd - great guard dog.
Chihuahua - fabulous lap dog.
Beagle - great at following a scent.
Bull Terrier - particularly good with people.

No not those behaviours, these ones:
Border Collie - will herd and nip the children when they are running about, will be sound sensitive and not cope well with traffic and busy households.
German Shepherd - will bark ferociously at all of your visitors.
Chihuahua - will resource guard your lap.
Beagle - will follow a scent to timbuktu and not hear you calling.
Springer Spaniel - will resource guard anything he picks up if there is the slightest chance that you have previously taken items from him as a puppy and especially if that was accompanied by a stern telling off for taking it.
Cocker Spaniel - will resource guard anything he picks up if there is the slightest chance that you have previously taken items from him as a puppy and especially if that was accompanied by a stern telling off for taking it.
Cockapoo - will resource guard anything he picks up if there is the slightest chance that you have previously taken items from him as a puppy and especially if that was accompanied by a stern telling off for taking it.
Golden Retriever - will resource guard anything he picks up if there is the slightest chance that you have previously taken items from him as a puppy and especially if that was accompanied by a stern telling off for taking it.
(No prizes for guessing what we get posts about the most)
Labrador - Should be the same but they are a bit goofy so less likely to.
Sighthounds - Saluki, Borzoi, Greyhound, Lurcher et al - will chase small furries that they spot in the distance. When playing with other dogs will bring them down either by grabbing back legs or the back of the neck or the back.
Terriers - will dig, will go down rabbit holes, badger sets, drain pipes.

And then the breed temperament descriptions and what they really mean ..
"Aloof" won't like strangers
"Wary of strangers" won't like strangers
"Naturally independent" won't be eager to please
"Loyal to his master" won't like strangers
"very protective of owner" won’t like strangers
"particularly good with people" not good with dogs

We can also group dogs into those that work with man and those that work independently.

Gundogs, herding dogs, guard dogs mostly tend to take instructions from us and often hang on our every word.
In contrast the independent breeds, sighthounds that hunt by sight, scent hounds that hunt by following a scent, terriers that go down holes, stock guarding breeds that live with the flock. We just leave them to get on with it because their skills far outweigh ours. They don’t need us.

These are the breeds that are often labeled as stubborn but of course they are not stubborn, they are just not designed to follow instructions and take orders.

The secret to a successful partnership with all dogs but particularly the independant breeds is to always let them think that it was their idea, that they have trained you to give treats for checking in, for lying on their bed when you are busy. And that by pretending to be thinking of going hunting you will produce a toy and play a great game with them. This line of thinking works well with husbands too.

There are always exceptions and we know that with appropriate training and socialising these traits can be channelled effectively but please always do your research before buying a breed that you like the look of.

04/18/2025
04/17/2025

How to build your dog's confidence.

04/17/2025

A dog is more than a well-behaved pet; they are individuals with specific needs and emotions.

It’s essential to understand their limits, respect their natural behaviours, and provide an environment where they can thrive.

Training should always be about enhancing the relationship with your dog, not forcing them into situations they’re not ready for.

04/17/2025

04/16/2025

Terminology Tuesday ~ Ladder of Canine Aggression

Understanding your dog’s body language is key to preventing bites before behaviors escalate!

The Canine Ladder of Aggression (created by Kendal Shepherd) shows how dogs signal discomfort long before they ever growl or bite.

Recognizing the early signs—like turning their head, yawning, or walking away—can help keep everyone safe and stress-free!

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s post on how pain can impact our dog’s behavior!

04/14/2025

Dementia in dogs, often known as Canine Cognitive Dysfunction (CCD), presents unique challenges that tug at the heartstrings of caring companions. As our beloved canines age, it’s vital to underst…

04/14/2025

Positive dog training focuses on rewarding desired behaviours rather than punishing unwanted ones, fostering trust and a stronger bond between dog and guardian.

This method enhances learning by using treats, praise, or play as motivation, making training enjoyable for dogs. It reduces fear and anxiety, promoting better emotional well-being.

Positive reinforcement also encourages quicker, more reliable behaviour changes and strengthens communication, helping dogs feel confident in their actions. Suitable for all breeds and ages, this approach nurtures a cooperative relationship, ensuring a well-behaved and happy dog while creating a positive, respectful environment for both pet and owner.

04/14/2025

72% of Dog Training Companies in British Columbia Use Reward-Based Methods Only, Study Finds by Zazie Todd, PhD Click HERE for original post The result is great news for dogs and their guardians who can access modern, scientific dog training—but people still need to ask questions to avoid trainers...

If this sounds right to you give me a call for your pups training and behavioral needs.
04/12/2025

If this sounds right to you give me a call for your pups training and behavioral needs.

Sometimes people--especially so-called "balanced" dog trainers--try to muddy the waters on training methods, but actually there's a very clear definition of reward-based methods and plenty of research to show that reward-based methods are best for dogs. Here's how I defined humane or reward-based training methods in an article in JVB that looked at the barriers to people taking this approach: "Humane training refers to the use of positive reinforcement and negative punishment in training, along with management strategies that are not aversive. This is also known as reward-based training and is the same approach taken by a number of professional bodies... Humane management strategies include but are not limited to the use of nopull harnesses, putting lids on garbage cans, use of pet gates to keep dogs separate from children or other animals, and the use of a muzzle with appropriate prior conditioning using only non-punitive, non-scary techniques."

If you'd like to know more about how aversive methods can damage our dogs, and why reward-based approaches are so much better, check out my book Bark! The Science of Helping Your Anxious, Fearful, or Reactive Dog. It's available wherever books are sold.

Get Bark!:
From Bookshop (supports independent bookstores): https://bookshop.org/a/105832/9781778401367
From Amazon: https://amzn.to/43VuYkF
Find other links to buy, also for Wag and Purr: https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/p/books.html

04/10/2025

Become a dog trainer with a mentor by your side. Through self-study, mentor guidance, and hands-on work with dogs, CATCH gives you the training and certification you need to become a professional dog trainer.

04/10/2025

Herding behaviours, or the way our dogs move through the world, are widely misunderstood.

It’s common for people to see their herder barking, circling, or nipping at a delivery person or visitor and say, “He wasn’t being aggressive, he was trying to herd.” But that confuses how the dog is moving with the context of the situation. Just because the behaviour looks herdy doesn’t mean it’s not also driven by fear or aggression.

So, what is herding behaviour?

We’ve taken predator behaviour and altered it to suit a purpose. In herding breeds, we’ve kept some parts of the predatory sequence and removed others. The full predatory sequence is:

Orient → Eye → Stalk → Chase → Grab → Kill → Dissect → Consume

In herders, we’ve enhanced the early parts like eye, stalk, and chase, and bred out the parts we don’t want, like the grab bite and kill. What’s left is a kind of exaggerated predator behaviour that looks intense but doesn’t end in a bite, at least ideally (or unless it's warranted).

Sheep are prey animals, so even a sheep who has never met a dog before still knows to move away from one acting in a predatory way. Creeping, staring, and stalking are all clear signals. Sheep don’t need past experience to read that body language. It’s built into them to recognize predators, just like the behaviour to move like one is built into your dog.

Border collies and other herding breeds do this automatically. It requires no learning. Their brains are wired to move that way. It’s not something they think through, and it’s not a trick. It’s just how their body responds to certain triggers.

All breed behaviours have what are called “releasers.” These are triggers in the environment that flip a switch in the dog’s brain. That switch turns on what’s called a modal action pattern (also known as a fixed action pattern). These are hardwired behaviour sequences that tend to run their course once they’ve started. They don’t need to be taught. The dog doesn’t plan it or think it through. It just happens.

Modal action patterns aren't just a dog thing. A spider doesn’t learn how to spin a web. Once the right conditions are there, they just do it. And, what's really cool, is they build the web appropriate to their species. Birds are the same. A robin isn't taught how to build a robin's nest, and a cowbird isn't taught to lay her eggs in someone else's nest. A sea turtle hatches and crawls toward the brightest horizon, usually the moonlight over the ocean. It doesn’t think about it. It just goes. A hen will sit on and rotate anything egg-shaped, even if it’s a golf ball. The shape is the releaser, and the sitting behaviour follows.

Even p*eing can be part of a modal action pattern. A male dog sees a vertical object with scent on it, and boom, leg lift, even if he barely has any p*e left. And no, this doesn’t mean your dog is trying to take over the world. It’s not a dominance thing. It’s just how they p*e.

Think of a border collie seeing something move across a field. Without any training, they drop their body low, stare, stalk, and creep forward. The movement of the object was the releaser. The sequence that follows is the modal action pattern. It’s like pressing play on a pre-loaded track in the brain. The dog isn’t choosing it. It’s instinct, shaped by generations of selective breeding.

So now imagine herding behaviour as being neutral. It doesn’t carry any emotion on its own. It’s just movement. Just like the way I run is simply how I run. But emotion can happen at the same time.

I can run and be scared. I can run and be playing. Just like a border collie can be herdy and happy, or herdy and scared.

Herding behaviour doesn’t tell you what your dog feels. It only tells you how they’re moving.

To understand what’s really going on, you have to look at the full picture: body language, context, and emotion. Herding dogs often default to these behaviours when arousal is high. That might be during play, when anticipating something, or when feeling anxious or overwhelmed. So when your dog runs out to circle and nip the delivery person, don’t brush it off as “just herding.” Step back and look at the whole picture to see what you're dog is saying!

You can learn more about herding breed behaviour and how to support these dogs in Urban Sheepdog: https://amzn.to/4g0o6VT

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