Pawsitive Pup Training

01/08/2026

01/08/2026

Growling is communication. Always just communication. How else are our dogs going to ask for the space they need if we punish them for growling? Take away the growl and they have no choice but to go straight to a bite.

01/08/2026

Barking is a normal dog behavior. It's a way for your dog to communicate. We may think it's annoying or disruptive but your dog is barking to tell you something.

Real dog training isn’t about control or domination. It’s about teaching life skills, building trust, and helping our dogs navigate the world with confidence.

Yet, society still judges dogs for barking, lunging, or growling. These are all normal ways dogs communicate discomfort. Instead of demanding perfection, or punishing communication, let’s focus on helping dogs feel safe, supported, and understood.

Behavior suppression is not behavior modification.

Read more below.

01/08/2026

01/07/2026

12/29/2025

What Happens in a Dog's Brain During Play?

🔘Reward pathways activated: Dopamine release reinforces enjoyment and motivation.
🔘Oxytocin increase: Strengthens social bonds and feelings of safety.
🔘Reduced cortisol: Lowers stress, promoting calmness and resilience.
🔘Neuroplasticity: Play experiences help shape neural circuits for social and emotional regulation.

Play matters because it is far more than simple fun—it is a vital part of a dog’s emotional, social, and cognitive development.

Through play, dogs learn how to communicate, practice problem-solving, and build trust with both humans and other dogs. It stimulates the brain’s reward pathways, lowers stress hormones, and strengthens bonds, while also providing healthy outlets for energy and curiosity. Regular, positive play enriches their lives, helping them grow into confident, resilient companions who thrive in their environments.

12/29/2025

One of the biggest reasons we can struggle when working on a dog’s behaviour is because of where we are trying to make the change.

We often ask dogs to “do better” in the exact environments they already find overwhelming.

Think about it:

A dog that explodes on walks is expected to suddenly stay calm on the same busy street, at the same time of day, with the same triggers.

A dog that struggles with visitors is expected to make better choices while strangers enter the home, talk loudly, move unpredictably, and reach toward them.

A dog that can’t focus around other dogs is taken straight back to the park and asked to “listen” when they’re already over threshold.

From the dog’s point of view, nothing has changed, except the possible extra pressures of more expectations.

Learning doesn’t happen when a nervous system is flooded. When a dog is already stressed, excited, fearful, or overwhelmed, their brain isn’t in a state where it can absorb new skills.

Expecting change in those moments often leads to frustration on both sides and labels like “stubborn” or " stupid" are thrown in the ring.

But here’s the truth:
If we want our dogs to change, we have to be open to change too.

That could look like:

Changing our routines.

Choosing quieter routes, different times of day, or more distance from triggers.

Practising skills in easier, calmer environments before asking for them in harder ones.

Letting go of the idea that progress should look the same as other dogs’ progress.

Adjusting expectations so success is realistic, not idealistic.

Behaviour change isn’t about forcing a dog to cope, it’s about setting them up to succeed.

When we adapt, so do our dogs. Confidence grows. Trust builds. And the behaviours we want to see have a chance to emerge.

Change doesn’t start with the dog.
It starts with us being willing to do things differently.

12/29/2025

🐾Why Calm Observation Matters When Desensitizing a Dog and Building Confidence🐾

One of the most overlooked yet powerful tools in behavior modification is calm observation. 🚫 Not correction
🚫 Not reassurance
🚫 Not distraction
Simply the ability to observe a dog without emotion, urgency, or interference.

When we rush to “fix” a dog’s reaction, we often miss the most important information they are giving us: how they are processing the world in real time.

Desensitization is not about forcing exposure. It is about allowing a dog to experience a stimulus at a level they can emotionally tolerate. Calm observation is how we determine that threshold.

🐾Dogs Learn Through
Emotional Association, Not
Explanation🐾

Dogs do not rationalize experiences the way humans do. They associate sensations, environments, and stimuli with how their body feels in that moment.

If a dog encounters something new or triggering and feels:
• pressured
• restrained
• rushed
• soothed with anxious energy
• corrected for reacting

the nervous system does not register safety. It registers conflict.

Calm observation allows the dog to investigate without being pulled forward or pulled away.
It tells the dog, “You are allowed to notice. You are allowed to think.”

That freedom to process is the foundation of confidence.

🐾Observation Prevents
Flooding🐾

Flooding occurs when a dog is exposed to too much, too fast, without the ability to disengage. Many well-meaning owners accidentally flood their dogs by assuming “they’ll get used to it.”

When you are calmly observing, you notice:
• subtle weight shifts
• breathing changes
• ear position
• scanning or freezing
• hesitation before approach

These early signals tell you when the dog is nearing their threshold. If you miss them, the dog will escalate because subtle communication was ignored.

Confidence is built when the dog feels heard before they feel overwhelmed.

🐾Your Nervous System Sets
The Tone🐾

Dogs are highly attuned to human energy. When you hover, tense up, talk excessively, or anticipate a reaction, the dog’s nervous system mirrors that state.

Calm observation requires neutrality.

🚫 No cheerleading.
🚫 No bracing for impact.
🚫 No disappointment if they
hesitate.

When your body is relaxed and your presence is steady, the dog receives a clear message: there is no emergency here.

That message matters more than treats, commands, or praise.

🐾Stillness Gives the Dog
Agency🐾

Agency is the ability to choose. A dog that feels trapped cannot build confidence.

Calm observation allows the dog to:
• approach at their own pace
• retreat if needed
• re-engage when ready

Each self-directed choice strengthens the dog’s belief in their ability to cope. That belief is confidence.

We don’t build brave dogs by dragging them through fear. We build brave dogs by allowing them to discover they can handle discomfort without being pushed past it.

🐾Reactivity Often Comes From Not Being Allowed to Observe🐾

Many reactive dogs were never given time to simply look.

They were corrected for staring.
Pulled away too quickly.
Redirected before they could process.

As a result, the dog learns that triggers predict chaos, tension, or loss of control. Calm observation rewires that pattern.

Looking is not reacting.
Noticing is not danger.

When a dog is allowed to observe calmly, the brain has time to shift from survival to assessment.

🐾Confidence Is Built in Quiet
Moments🐾

Progress does not always look dramatic. Sometimes it looks like:
• a dog pausing instead of
panicking
• softer eyes
• a deeper breath
• choosing to disengage on
their own

These moments are easy to miss if you are focused on outcomes instead of awareness.

Calm observation teaches us to value what truly matters: a regulated nervous system.

Final Thought….

Behavior change does not happen because we control the dog. It happens because the dog learns they are safe enough to learn.

Calm observation is not passive. It is intentional restraint. It is leadership without pressure. It is trust without force.

When we slow down enough to truly observe, we stop training reactions and start building confidence.

And that changes everything.
🤗🐾❤️

12/28/2025

12/28/2025

Top Tips for RECALL
(part 1)

Use a long line. A long line can be used to give a dog freedom but ensures they can’t get into trouble, run away or get lost. Great for young puppies, dogs going through adolescence and essential for newly adopted rescue dogs. Always attach a line to a harness.

Teach an automatic check in. Teaching a check in and reinforcing desirable behaviours starts indoors. Set yourself a challenge. Put twenty treats in a pot on the kitchen side and every time your puppy looks at you (not when you ask her to) give her a treat. Count the treats left at the end of the day. Next day try and beat your record. Then take it to the garden. Lower your expectations for this. And of course then eventually out and about.

Be fun to be with. When you get to the field/park start tossing treats for your puppy to catch, get a tug toy from your pocket and have a game for ten – twenty seconds, then run about and have her chase you, More treats, more play, drop the lead, pick up the lead, unclip the lead, put the lead back on all whilst feeding and playing. Do this for a minute or two and finish with lead off, line on, putting toy and treats back in your pocket and tell her “off you go”.

Whichever way she goes, you go the other way. Give her some sniff time, then start cheering and whooping and running again, get the toy and treats out again and repeat ad infinitum.

Top Tips for Recall
(part 2)

In part 1 we talked about the benefits of using a long line, how to teach a check in and how to be fun to be with.

Following on from that here are some games that you can play at anytime that will have a positive impact on your dog's recall.

Collar Touch. Simply take hold of your dog's collar gently, palm towards the side of his neck, every single time before you give him a treat, open the door to let him out, throw his a toy, put his lead on, take his lead off, give him his dinner and everything else that is a pleasurable experience for him. Before you know it he will be pushing his neck into your palm in anticipation of the reward. Add a verbal cue and you have a great recall trick.

Retrieve. If a dog is bringing a toy back to you then you've got a recall. If your dog enjoys a game of tug then use a rope ball with a handle so he can chase, fetch and then enjoy a tug game with you. You can keep the game interesting by throwing the toy into long grass and sending him to find it with lots of whooping and cheering when he finds it and returns to you.

Chase the kibble. Send him away by tossing a treat for him to find and more cheering when he finds it and a really yummy treat for coming back to you ready to go again. Stage 2 of this is to change position each time he goes away so that part of the fun is turning around and looking for you.

All of these games can be done at home, indoors, in the garden and out and about. On a long line or off lead where it is safe to do so.

Top Tips for Recall
(part 3)

In parts 1 and 2 we talked about the benefits of using a long line, how to teach a check in, how to be fun to be with and games to play that will have a positive impact on your dog's recall.

This week we’ll talk about the do’s and don’t’s for teaching recall.

DON’T call your dog if they are busy and are not looking at you.

DO call your dog excitedly when they are heading your way.

DON’T call your dog back to you when you are walking towards them.

DO change direction and encourage your dog to follow you and catch you up.

DON’T chase your dog

DO run away and get him to chase you.

DON’T call your dog only at the end of the walk.

DO call him and put the lead on randomly during the walk.

DON’T ever tell your dog off for a slow recall. It will be slower next time.

DO praise and reward your dog for coming back even if it took a while but consider grading the rewards so that the quicker the recall the better the reward.

DON’T use the line to make him return to you. The training is far more effective if it’s his choice to return.

DO use all these tips to make your dog want to return to you.

Top Tips for Recall
(part 4) The clever stuff.

In parts 1 - 3 we talked about the benefits of using a long line, teaching a check in, being fun to be with, games to play that will have a positive impact on your recall and a list of do's and don't's to achieve a reliable recall.

So if you have a dog that can recall perfectly unless... something puts a spanner in the works ... such as another dog, a squirrel, sea gulls and countless other distractions then you may need some of our advanced recall tips.

Auto Check in When Seeing Another Dog. One reason for teaching a dog to check in with you is when you encounter other dogs. He checks in before being given the okay to greet. This ensures that all four parties, both dogs and both humans are mutually agreeable to the interaction before you release your dog. If it's not appropriate then you can reward him with something else and walk politely past. If it is, then what better reward than being able to say 'hi' to a canine friend. If your dog enthusiastically greets every dog he sees without checking if it's okay first then this will inevitably get him into trouble at some point and also lead to reactivity when on lead because of the frustration of not being free to meet and greet.

Teaching a Predictive Cue. This is done using a thrown toy (or food) for the dog to chase and adding a verbal cue. For this example we'll use 'TOY!' Over several sessions every single time you throw the toy for him to chase you give the cue. Now for the clever bit, throw a different toy (boringly to start with) and say nothing and then immediately throw his favourite toy as you shout 'TOY!' in the other direction. He should immediately be distracted from chasing the first thing he saw moving and go after the second one simply because of the power of the word ‘toy’.

Teach an instant down at a distance. There are various ways to teach this once your dog understands the verbal cue to lie down and it can often halt a dog in his tracks where recall has failed.

Food and Toys. If your dog is not motivated by food or toys outside then you can increase the value of both quite easily. Put his food bowl away and put all of his meal in a food pouch and hand feed him outside. In the garden to start with before taking it out and about. He doesn't have to do anything for it other than step toward you and eat from your hand as you step back and say his name excitedly. This is very effective if you can do it for all or most meals over a period of time. Obviously no running about if he is eating just stroll to the park or the woods, eat dinner and walk home. Then on walks food treats can now be used as a reward.

Pick up and put away all of the interactive toys indoors and at every opportunity take a toy from the cupboard and run out to the garden and play for two minutes. No playing indoors if you want him to want to play outside.

And finally... If You Can't Beat Them. Join Them. If your dog enjoys chasing birds or squirrels or rabbits, have him on his long line attached to a harness and join in the chase with him. Chase the squirrel up the tree, the rabbit down the hole and the birds..well.. just chase them, whooping and cheering as you go. Be part of the fun and your dog will stay engaged with you and probably join in a game of tug with you at the end.

by Sally Bradbury

12/17/2025

12/17/2025