Stopping unwanted behaviors and teaching obedience are two very different things.
Obedience commands are simply skills we teach our dogs, and these behaviors can be used to show our dogs how we want them to behave.
HoweverâŚ
Just because your dog is OBEDIENT doesnât mean they wonât do âbadâ behaviors when given the choice.
With puppies, I donât focus on obedience. I instead focus on building confidence and allow the pup to explore and make decisions.
If they decide to do behaviors I donât want (like tackle children) Iâll tell them no and correct that behavior. That way, they learn what I DONT want them to do and can make better decisions in the future.
How early do you start holding your pup accountable to obedience?
Everyone wants an 8-12 week old puppy walking at heel, but is that really our goal at this age?
For me, the walk is more of an opportunity for exposure training. Itâs a place to expose our pups to new sights, sounds, textures, and smells- all things theyâll encounter in adulthood that we want them to be neutral too.
At this age you can start shaping the heel by rewarding in position and hereâs a few tips for you-
1. Reward on the side you want the pup to walk on (left side, left hand)
2. Use their regular kibble- I love getting them working for their meals instead of eating from a bowl. Every piece of food is an opportunity to shape good behaviors
3. Keep your expectations low until they mature- donât rush training. Take your time and be consistent above all else.
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I promise, youâre not traumatizing your puppy if you crate them and they cry.
Dogs are social animals and want to be with us 24/7 but unfortunately, our human lives prevent us from taking our pups everywhere with us.
Because of that, the crate is a valuable tool in teaching your pup independence and providing a safe space for them to go while we arenât able to watch them.
ButâŚ
Crate training isnât always easy and youâll need to work through some fussing.
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The most common mistake I see?
Over-marking EVERYTHING.
âYes workâ or marker training is so valuable in training to allow us to tell our dogs âHey! I like what youâre doing, more of that!â But the biggest issue I see is people over-using their marker and just marking EVERYTHING with no clear goal or meaning.
For me I use 2 different reward markers.
Yes = that was perfect, youâre done with your command and you can come to me to get your reward.
&
Good= that was good, stay there and Iâll reward you in position.
The issue I see is people marking everything with âyesâ and sometimes theyâll allow the dog to leave the command, and sometimes they use it to reward in position. For me, this creates confusion and a very underwhelming marker.
Since I use âyesâ as terminal, I can use it to build speed and more motivation- a valuable state of mind to have in confidence building or counter-conditioning.
Then with âgoodâ I can create a calmer, less-anticipatory state of mind with the dog. Great for duration work around distractions and creating neutrality.
Having clear meaning for these two words allows me to choose the state of mind I want to reinforce in any given scenario.
Clarity and consistency in your words, in this case, our rewarding marker words, not only helps the dog in understanding what you expect but it builds their confidence in you as a leader.
Good leaders are good and intentional communicators.
This drill Iâm doing with lab puppy Bea is a great way to teach the difference between âyesâ and âgoodâ and gives you a place to practice your timing, your words, and your body language.
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The BIGGEST most common mistake I see when adding distance + duration to commands?
Going back and rewarding the dog for breaking the command.
A SUCCESSFUL rep is one where you walk away, come back and the dog stays.
If you walk away and the dog breaks the command, do not reward the dog because they broke the command in that rep.
We want our commands to be sticky.
We want the dog to WANT to stay there.
So- only reward the dog when they stay.
If they break, mark them getting up with a âAhh ahhâ and use your body to move into them and apply spacial pressure.
Clear communication is EVERYTHING in dog training and most folks donât have a clear + consistent way to communicate these expectations.
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Learn about leash pressure, body language, marker words and how we use them to talk to our dogs in a way they understand.
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Having a loose-lead walk is the foundation of everything in our training.
Teaching the dog to look to us for guidance is so important, especially when navigating behavioral issues (and just to enjoy walks with your dog).
If you want to learn how you can have a loose lead walk, join our online dog training community to get access to training sessions, video courses, live Q&Aâs and join a bunch of cool dog parents all looking to better their dogâs lives through training.
If you want help with walking, want to ecollar train, struggle with reactivity, or just got a puppy and need help potty training Iâve got you- this community is my BABY and Iâve put my heart and soul into it to help dog parents just like yourself.
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The crate is without a doubt one of the most helpful tools in your puppy training.
It prevents your puppy from getting into unsafe things, teaches them to settle, and prevents potty accidents BUT a lot of people struggle with it at first.
Hereâs how we can create a positive association with the crate and teach our pups to go in and stay there.
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The beginning of your walk sets the tone for how your walk will go.
Especially with reactive dogs, start with the focus on you. Once the dog is focused and walking nicely, then you can let them stop, sniff and be a dog. Then go back to structure.
Start and end your walk with structure, with a break in the middle.
When do you let your dog sniff on the walk?
Teaching our puppies to pause at check in with us at doors (instead of rushing out) is a great place to practice impulse control, teach the meaning of ânoâ, and create a state of calm around the crate.
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Our language with our dogs starts with the leash.
The leash is not just a tether- itâs an extension of our body and gives directional guidance to our dogs.
It can be used to disrupt behaviors or grab a dogs attention.
It can be used to guide a dog where we want them to go.
But first, we must teach what to do when the dog feels the leash pressure.
Most dogs understand the leash as feel the leash = I keep moving forward. We want the opposite of this.
Everything in dog training boils down to communication.
Our job, as dog trainers, is to create a language between dog and owner that allows for clear, consistent communication to teach our dogs exactly what we want them to do in any given situation.
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If youâre struggling with reactivity on the walk, look at the full picture of your dogâs day to day.
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No, socialization is not dog parks and doggy daycares. Itâs exposing your puppy to all the things they will encounter throughout their life.
What do you think? Was this fair play between dogs?