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We need to look after their emotional needs as well.  Teach them how to navigate the human world.  Be their rock in this...
20/01/2025

We need to look after their emotional needs as well. Teach them how to navigate the human world. Be their rock in this big new world they just arrived in

Accidental attachment ‘parenting’

Taking on a tiny 6 day old puppy unintentionally taught me a great deal about attachment and how crucial secure attachments are for our dogs’ emotional health.

It’s pretty easy to meet our dogs physical needs and that was even quite easy with a tiny puppy- she needed feeding, she needed help toileting and she needed to be kept warm.

It was apparently straight away that meeting these physical needs and leaving her on a heat pad in a pen was in no way going to meet her emotional needs. It’s not just warmth that puppies need, it’s physical contact with a living being. Heat pads, fake heart beats in toys etc for a solo puppy, just doesn’t do it. She was more settled and content in close physical contact- she preferred with me but any other human or dog would do. She wanted to be next to skin and near a heartbeat, at all times and so that’s where she stayed, for as long as she needed it.

The option of close physical contact with someone they are attached to is such a basic need. I’m sure most of us remember hearing about the awful Harlow experiments where monkey babies had the choice of a wire ‘mother’ (with milk) or a soft, cloth ‘mother’ and would choose the soft mother even at the expense of milk, such is that basic need.

I have children and it felt so similar to when my kids were tiny babies too. I certainly didn’t deny them a need to be near me and I didn’t with this tiny puppy either. When they are developmentally ready (human babies and tiny puppies), they choose to be more independent from you and they spread their wings.

Of course it’s not just about the need for physical contact anyway when they are tiny- it’s about the need to feel safe too and that’s a fundamental need that must be met.

When puppies go into new homes at 8 weeks old they don’t suddenly stop having this need for physical contact and to feel safe near a living being. They go from feeling safe near to mum and siblings to being totally dependent on their new human family. It breaks my heart to think of them relegated to a crate in a kitchen. Of course they stop crying after a couple of nights as they give up any hope that anyone will help them. It certainly doesn’t help them to feel safe and secure in the world.

The same goes for an adult rescue dog who has often suffered so much upheaval and broken attachments along the way and who needs more than anything to just feel safe and secure and to have a bond with someone. This need for connection is a basic need that must be met, the same as being fed and watered.

I know people worry that if you ‘pander’ to them and give them lots of company they will become clingy or overly dependant but it couldn’t be further from the truth. Letting them develop a secure attachment results in resilient and confident individuals who feel safe in the world.

I see so many clients who’ve had awful advice and who have been told that their dog has behavioural issues as they are too nice to them, love them too much etc. it’s all absolute rubbish and they won’t turn into a monster if you meet their needs for safety, it’s quite the opposite and you help them to develop to their full potential ❤️

Laura McAuliffe, Dog Communication 2024

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10/01/2025

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LABBY NEW YEAR!!!

18 weeks old tomorrow and you know what that means?

Regression and development at the same time.

It’s so common at this stage of puppyhood to notice the following things -

- increase in independence and decrease in nap times. Energy starts to kick up a bit as the puppy body starts to become more developed and muscles need to be worked. This is also around the time that squirrel p**p, actually ANY p**p, stick, blade of grass, becomes more interesting than you because omg the world is a big place and so much fun. Totally normal. Increase the value of rewards for recall, manage as needed and ensure lots of free time off leash exercise, especially where puppy is able to do fully body extension running and play. This is huge for physical development. Not forced, just provided if needed.

- decrease in hard mouthing but increase in chewing. The puppy teeth are there still, and yes they still need to go on everything, but it’s much less intense and chompy and now more about experience and if possible - shredding. It’s also less intense in the evening/mornings and more just constant through the day. Frozen toys come out a lot now, and interactive toys are huge. Wooden chews and split antlers are favorites. Rotation of toys always.

- Purpose behaviors can start to show. Genetics are genetics, and around this age you’ll see typical puppy behavior continue but also start to mix with selective breeding behaviors that are part of who they are. Retrieving in this case, obsession with water, and thinking everyone is a new best friend who would just LOVE to be shown around the house with their arm in his mouth is the case here.

- FOMO begins. Rest periods that were easy before can back track now. This is often due to the increase in energy combined with the new found love of the world and independence. Screaming and acting like there’s a branding happening can occur now when rest periods are there. Stay the course and continue with rest periods and plenty of downtime. Do not get discouraged or think you need to exercise more and more. This will actually make it worse in the long run. Learning how to be “off” is a critical skill.

- potty training can waiver. A super reliable 16 week old puppy suddenly p*es in the house again. A combination often of us assuming that vigilance isn’t needed as much and a distracted growing brain who doesn’t have time to go p*e outside because he just discovered a crumb under the stove from 2 years ago and it must be explored. This is normal and simply means going back a few steps into management and vigilance. If the p*eing still increases, check with your vet asap.

- adult dog teaching. The puppy license that happens for all puppies is now expiring. Adult dogs will no longer tolerate or forgive the way they did before when puppy was an “infant” in their eyes. Puppy is now larger, bouncier, and has more stamina. It’s imperative now to have puppy be around well socialized and fair adult dogs to continue teaching about manners and boundaries without encouraging negative behaviors or worse over correcting or bullying. This is the age where playing with other puppies is less important than playing with well rounded adult dogs of all sizes, breeds and play styles.

- basic skills only. Focus more on the quality of the skills versus the quantity of skills performed. There’s years ahead for teaching more together, but this period is fragile and often confusing and frustrating for you both. Don’t make it harder by trying to add more learning in when you’re both already learning so much, about the world, about the process and about eachother. Sessions should be short sweet and end with puppy wanting more, not exhausted. Relationship over results. Always.

Hope this helps. Back to mopping my floors.
- Helen St. Pierre

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17/12/2024

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Remember no one is arguing the need for sterilization, it's the surgical technique that should be reevaluated. Hysterectomy and vasectomy achieve the same goal but leave important hormones intact according to science.

"The association between gonadectomy and timing of gonadectomy, and the risk of canine cranial cruciate ligament disease: A systematic review and meta-analysis

Abstract
Objective - To determine if gonadectomy in dogs is associated with the risk of cranial cruciate ligament disease (CrCLD) and to quantify the magnitude of the association.

Study design - Systematic review and meta-analysis.

Sample population - Comparative studies with gonadectomized and entire dogs, with CrCLD as an outcome measure.

Methods - A systematic search of the primary and gray literature was performed. The effect size of the outcome measure was defined as the OR and 95% CI. Subgroup analysis was performed with s*x, breed, and age at gonadectomy. A pooled OR (95% CI) was generated from meta-analysis of relevant studies. Certainty in the body of evidence was rated with the Grading of Recommendations Assessment, Development and Evaluation (GRADE) framework.

Results - The literature search yielded 1398 results and 24 relevant studies were included for synthesis. Gonadectomized female (pooled OR = 2.293, 95% CI = 1.768–2.945) and male (pooled OR = 2.117, 95% CI = 1.665–2.691) dogs were both at increased odds of developing CrCLD in comparison with entire female and male dogs, respectively. Subgroup analysis showed that gonadectomy at 1 year or less was consistently associated with an increase in odds of developing CrCLD in both s*xes. Overall certainty in the evidence was rated as moderate. All included studies were observational and no controlled trials were available.

Conclusion - In data with moderate certainty, gonadectomy is associated with increased odds of developing CrCLD in both s*xes, particularly in dogs gonadectomized at 1 year of age or less.

Clinical significance - This study provides an estimate of the true effect size of gonadectomy on the odds of developing CrCLD, which may be useful for clinical decision making surrounding gonadectomy and the timing of gonadectomy."

Santa arrived at The Dog Lounge.Happy Holidays
09/12/2024

Santa arrived at The Dog Lounge.

Happy Holidays

19/11/2024

Yes!!!
Ask for permission plz

19/11/2024

The “Neutral” Dog

On just about every post concerning puppy socialisation these days, you will find comments or advice such as, “remember that socialisation means teaching your dog to be neutral about people and dogs – it doesn’t mean encouraging them to interact.”

These comments have started to really bother me, as I don’t think they reflect the reality of how living creatures respond to the world around them and set impossible requirements for dogs, especially for young puppies. I sometimes wonder if people making these comments understand anything about the mammalian brain or what the word neutral even means.

Just like us, dogs are emotionally driven creatures. They respond to the environment around them according to how they feel and how things in the environment make them feel. Feeling is the essence of what it means to be alive and conscious. It is the difference between an animal and a robot.

The term “neutral” means feeling neither positive nor negative about something. It implies feeling nothing. I would ask you to try and think of things in your life that you feel absolutely nothing about. Can you think of any? How many situations in our lives evoke zero emotional response, where we feel absolutely nothing about the environment we are in or about the people we are around? Maybe routine things like eating breakfast or cleaning our teeth in the morning don’t make us feel much on the surface, but if you scratch a little deeper, for most of us eating always involves some small level of pleasurable anticipation and hygiene chores can feel like drudgery or even an annoyance when we may be in a hurry. Driving to work we may feel pleasure listening to a radio station or music, but we may also feel frustration anticipating traffic or anxiety about being late for work. Arriving at work there may be people that we enjoy seeing and who make us feel cheerful and motivated and there may others who make us feel uncomfortable or slightly stressed. Our emotions are likely to fluctuate with every situation – not always extremely – but just little ebbs and flows of feelings throughout the day.

We are seldom, if ever, completely neutral and I believe that it is the same for our dogs. The idea of expecting dogs to ignore people, dogs and situations because they should not have any feelings about them, seems quite ridiculous to me. Dogs are sentient, complex emotional beings – they are not robots. They are going to feel something in all situations and that something is going to tend towards consisting of either positive emotions or negative ones, depending on their predisposition and life experiences.

So, what about habituation? Does that not mean learning that something has no meaning and so ignoring it? Yes, it does – however, this usually refers to learning to ignore simple stimuli in the environment as inconsequential rather than having no feelings about social situations and other living beings. For example, while I am writing this, there are insects creating a constant high-pitched hum in the garden outside on this hot summer day. However, I only become conscious of them, when I stop typing for a second and take a moment to reconnect to my surroundings. I can also hear the distant hum of the sea, but all these sounds are so familiar and constant that my brain habituates to them and almost blocks them out. This is a vastly different situation in comparison to me deciding to go for a walk down to the beach and passing various neighbours or their dogs – while I may be quite used to encountering other people or dogs on walks, having my brain tune them out completely would be completely bizarre and rather inappropriate.

Yet that seems to be exactly what people advocate for and expect from dogs these days. Dogs must be “neutral” and dogs that actually have feelings about other living beings and any desire to engage or interact are “rude” and poorly trained. Of course, dogs cannot always go up and engage with other people and dogs and we do absolutely need to be able to teach them how to cope when it is best to disengage or stay away – but never allowing them to engage at all in the first place as puppies or to have any positive interactions is not going to create a “neutral” dog. It is in fact more likely to create a frustrated or anxious dog that has no idea how to respond if they are approached and engaged with - something that will happen at some point if you live in the real world.

The socialisation period is a time of high social attraction in dogs – they are drawn to interact with others, because by interacting they learn social skills and communication. They also learn associations and whether other people and dogs are safe or unsafe. Puppies may be drawn to want to go up to everyone and everything, but contrary to popular opinion, this does not mean that they will have the same desire to do so as adults, if you allow them to engage and enjoy interactions with other dogs and people as puppies. Again, of course every dog is different and some dogs may remain more social throughout their lives as adults and require a bit more management and training in how to cope when they cannot interact, but for most, the high level of social attraction that makes them want to run to everyone wanes as they mature and they naturally become more reserved.

It really concerns me that people are being encouraged to expect puppies to keep to themselves and never interact with people or dogs when out and about. The idea of a puppy enjoying themselves playing with friends or learning that other people can be friendly, fun and pleasant to be around has become a terrible thing to be avoided at all costs. Heaven forbid that a dog actually develops a liking for other people or dogs and enjoys their company – don’t you know that this leads to all manner of “bad” behaviour and that a “neutral” dog with no feelings towards other dogs and people is a good dog?

Of course, there is a balance to strike. Of course, we can’t allow our dogs to run up to everyone and everything all the time. Of course, we need to protect them from bad experiences by choosing who is appropriate and isn’t appropriate to meet and greet and of course we need to teach them to handle not being able to engage or approach with minimum frustration or disappointment – but these are training issues which we can work on throughout our dogs’ lives and not an excuse to skip socialisation altogether.

At the end of the day, I would rather have a dog that was a little too friendly, than a dog that was uncomfortable in social situations due to lack of positive experiences. A dog that is uncertain is far more likely to become defensive than a dog who has positive feelings. Regardless of what we aim for though, our dogs will have all sorts of emotions, some positive and some negative – just like us. That is what it means to be alive. It is our job to understand and help them, not to try and isolate them into becoming robots.

*got from another group* ‼️WARNING - BE AWARE‼️Just reposting this again as it’s super important for those that walk the...
19/11/2024

*got from another group*

‼️WARNING - BE AWARE‼️

Just reposting this again as it’s super important for those that walk their dogs on grass that hasn’t been cut that have grass seeds / foxtails.
“Be vigilant around foxtails / grass seed, and avoid them all together if you can.

Foxtails are the barbed seed heads of wild grasses (the foxtail- shaped tip of the grass blade containing the seeds). Foxtails have razor-sharp needles that are extremely dangerous to our fur kids. Nature designed them to move in one direction—burrowing relentlessly forward.

Foxtails easily attach themselves to adventurous and curious dogs, digging deeper and deeper inside with each movement. Foxtails love paws and can easily become embedded (and hidden) between toes. They can work their way into ANY part of the body, from the nose to the ears, eyes, and mouth.

Foxtails that go up the nose can migrate to the brain. Inhaled foxtails can puncture a lung. Foxtails that go unnoticed can require surgery to be removed. Embedded foxtails can cause discharge, abscesses, swelling, pain, and death.

SAFETY TIPS: Stay away from areas with foxtails and make sure you remove them from your garden. If your pet has mingled with foxtails, make sure to do a thorough inspection afterward: Brush coat, feel every part of the body with your hands, and look closely at ears, nose, eyes, underbelly, between toe pads, underneath collars and don't forget those private areas! Also check inside mouth and around lips. Any pet can get assaulted by foxtails, but animals with long fur, long ears, and curly fur can be especially prone to foxtail problems.

BE AWARE OF THESE FOXTAIL SYMPTOMS: Continuous sneezing, pawing at and licking an infected area, violent shaking of head, frequently tilting head to the side, scratching at an ear incessantly, sores or abscesses, swelling, discharge, coughing, and limping.
Foxtail Facts you should know:
Foxtails tends to grow in grassland areas & are common along roadsides and trails.

They break off easily into tiny segments. Each segment is loaded with infinite tiny barbs that dig into hair/skin and float their way into openings.

Once attached to your pet foxtails can disappear into the body QUICKLY, so checking them over immediately is key.

If foxtails get deep into the nasal passages, they can continue to travel into the brain and cause seizures or death.

Once a foxtails is inside your pet, they continue to burrow inward. If not found and removed quickly, they can literally disappear, because they won’t show up on an x-ray. Foxtails cannot be absorbed by the body, nor can they be broken down or digested"

Hi Last Course for the year.Running out of Saturdays 😉Contact us Today to book DATE: 16 NOV 2024TIME: 9-10AM5 WEEKS @ R7...
11/11/2024

Hi
Last Course for the year.
Running out of Saturdays 😉
Contact us Today to book
DATE: 16 NOV 2024
TIME: 9-10AM
5 WEEKS @ R780
083 396 3321

14/10/2024

Jack & Nova celebrated their with cakes.
Happy Birthday you 2

08/10/2024
More Muddy pic's Sorry Parents 🤭
07/10/2024

More Muddy pic's
Sorry Parents 🤭

More fun picsEnjoy ###
07/10/2024

More fun pics
Enjoy ###

Summer funSun is out
07/10/2024

Summer fun
Sun is out

This winter was cold and very muddy 🤭
07/10/2024

This winter was cold and very muddy 🤭

Photo roll on my phone is huge! 📸📱
07/10/2024

Photo roll on my phone is huge! 📸📱

More pics Fun in the sun
07/10/2024

More pics
Fun in the sun

Photo Dump😍
07/10/2024

Photo Dump😍

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