Sophie's School: A dog school for Rescue Dogs & their Humans

04/07/2025

🎓 Training Tip for Puppy Parents 🐾

Unwanted puppy behaviours, such as jumping up, mouthing, biting clothing, barking for connection, or chewing inappropriate items, are normal and expected in young puppies. They’re still learning how to navigate their environment and our human world.

These behaviours often happen due to frustration, fatigue, unmet needs, or overstimulation.

In most cases, the puppy isn’t being “naughty” — they’re using behaviour that’s worked before (from their perspective), to get a response, or they simply haven’t learned another way to cope or respond yet.

The more often you reward a behaviour you want, the more likely your puppy is to repeat it. That’s not luck — it’s how learning happens in the brain.

Each time you reward something like settling, waiting patiently, or keeping four paws on the floor, you help strengthen the neural pathways linked to that behaviour. With consistency and repetition, those pathways become stronger, making it more likely your puppy will do the same thing again in the future.

This also supports your puppy in learning how to succeed in daily life with you, as well as how to respond, connect, and feel safe!

✅ Be consistent
✅ Reward quickly
✅ Focus on what you do want

🐾 The behaviours you practise now with your puppy shapes how they respond later.

23/06/2025

Socialisation is a term that many struggle to define.
It's often confused with play, but play is a completely separate and important skill.
In a world that pushes constant interaction ….where dogs are expected to greet and play with every other dog they see, we can unintentionally create a dog who views every other dog as a source of excitement.
This isn’t socialisation… and it never was.

A better way to think about socialisation is acclimation, helping your dog adjust to everything the world offers, not just other dogs.

Weather
Surfaces
Animals
Crowds of people, all ethnicities, ages, and movement styles
Noises
Scents

That’s just a taste of what true socialisation really is.

Acceptance is another way to view it.
Accepting, not reacting.
Building positive associations.

That is true socialisation.

15/06/2025

14/06/2025

DOGS DO NOT NEED A 'PACK LEADER!'

This is me with a wolf in 2009. The photo was taken at Wolf Park in Indiana when I attended a dog behavior seminar presented by the late Dr. Ray Coppinger. I have also attended educational programs and volunteered at the International Wolf Center (IWC) in Ely, Minnesota.

The IWC was founded by wildlife biologist and wolf researcher, Dr. L. David Mech. I completed a graduate level course in wolf ethology at St. Thomas University in Minnesota with a practicum at the IWC, so have had experience with wolves as well as formal and information education about their behavior.

For the past 15 years, since being on Facebook, I have been trying to educate people about the difference between wolf and dog behavior. Finally, it seems the outdated idea that dogs are 'pack animals' that need an 'alpha' and a 'pack leader' is fading.

But, not entirely! Recently, I have heard several people refer to that old myth as if it were truth. So disappointing. We live in the Information Age, and yet there seems to be a problem with getting people updated.

I get weary of revisiting this, but here goes. Dogs are not 'pack animals.' They are scavengers, foragers, and opportunists. Although dogs and wolves share a common ancestor, dogs are ethologically different from their wolf cousins.

Only wolves can be described as true 'pack animals.' There is more that goes into the definition of 'pack' than simply hanging out in a group. For example, adult male wolves regurgitate for pups that are part of their pack, and the whole pack of wolves works as a team - in hunting and survival in general.

So, while it's true that wolves are pack animals, they do not have an 'alpha,' except in captive, unrelated groups of wolves. Non-captive wolves are comprised of a family unit with the parent wolves being what we call the breeding or mating pair. They are not 'alphas.'

In captive packs of wolves, which are usually comprised of unrelated wolves, a hierarchy needs to be worked out, so an alpha female and an alpha male will emerge.

The idea of dogs being pack animals originated with studies on captive wolves in a Swiss Zoo. Rudolph Schenkel studied wolves in a zoo in the 1930s and 1940s - almost 100 years ago, in an attempt to define the social behavior of wolves.

In 1947, he published a paper, “Expressions Studies on Wolves," in which he drew parallels between dogs and wolves, in discussions about how wolves vie for dominance within the pack.

The problem is, he was observing CAPTIVE wolves, an entirely different scenario than a non-captive pack.

I have seen this behavior firsthand, how captive wolves work out a pack structure, and how that structure can change any time there is a change in the pack membership or the health status of any one member.

The problem with parroting this old meme, that dogs are 'pack animals' who need a 'pack leader,' and to train a dog you need to be the 'alpha,' is that it is all based on bad science. The best we had at the time, but we know better now.

In the name of being the 'alpha' or 'pack leader,' horrendous methods and tools have been used to train and modify behavior in dogs. For example, the infamous, 'alpha roll.' People still do this! If I had a nickel for every dog with aggression someone has told me they alpha rolled to gain dominance, I could retire today!

When wolves and dogs roll on their back they are displaying deference to the animal in front of them or standing over them. The animal is not being actively rolled! We can get ourselves into a lot of trouble when we try to act like canines! Dogs are smarter than that, and all we do when trying to act like the 'alpha' is frighten and confuse the animal. Worse case scenario, the dog becomes more aggressive.

Let me be clear, I do not deny the existence of dominance in the animal world. Dominance exists. It can appropriately be used to describe the relationship between any two animals. The animal that maintains ownership of preferred resources is said to be dominant over the one who does not.

For example, my late dog Ginger, was definitely dominant over my larger dog, Opal.

It is improper to describe any dog as dominant because dominance is only correctly used to describe a relationship, not a personality. A dog who is dominant over another may not be dominant in another dog-dog relationship.

Dog training is based on science, and science is important because it requires that we continually re-evaluate our beliefs to see if what we think we know and understand, is still valid. Science asks questions, and as dog owners and trainers, we should do the same.

Please let go of the outdated idea that dogs are pack animals that need to be dominated. Training based in behavior science gets far better results without harming your dog or your relationship with your dog.

Cindy Ludwig, Canine Connection LLC
Voted Best Springfield Missouri Dog Trainer

10/06/2025

No thankyou.
Not yet.
Just not sure.....
Dogs can speak clearly with how they may feel in a situation and they use certain behaviours to communicate with others.

Yes, a sniff can just be because they are interested in that particular smell.
A scratch could be from an itch but sometimes these signals are given when they are just not interested.
It doesn’t mean they’ll feel that way forever, many dogs warm up given more time.
But right now, they may need space, time to observe or distance.

If your dog is attempting to interact with a dog displaying these....look closely at why.
Help your dog to recognise this can be a "not yet" and it needs to be respected.

05/06/2025

Small dogs can lose agency very quickly. Despite asking for space they are often ignored or even laughed at. It's no wonder they get defensive and worried by people. Does your small dog struggle in the world? We can help with that, drop us a line in the comments.

13/05/2025

This really is our "fault" as a society.❗
Socialisation is a very misconstrued and warped term.
"Socialisation" really isn't play.
Play is a very separate and important skill.
"Why can't they play"?
Never said they couldn't....
However, because of the societal pressure to meet/play with "all" other dogs and puppies (wherever we take them) we can VERY easily set our dogs up to view all dogs and puppies as a source of constant amusement and excitement.
Soon that can become reactivity.
At the mere glimpse of another dog or puppy, your dog may go to an extreme of emotions.
They may "dig in" and drag you closer.
You may have little control.
The barking, shrieking and spinning can start....for two reasons, the emotional extremes dogs now have attached to other dogs/puppies and the absolute frustration because they can't reach that other dog quick enough.
So maybe the term "socialisation" is the issue, because for us it means "socialising".
Acclimation is a far better term.

08/05/2025

🐾Understanding a puppy’s developmental stages is important so you can set them up with the right training, support, exposure, and socialisation at each phase.

These stages have a huge influence on shaping a pup's long-term behaviour, especially when it comes to handling stress, fear, and new experiences. The long term goal of having a ‘well-rounded’ adult dog is to recognise and understand the fear periods puppies go through, and how these can impact their overall development and emotional well-being.

Neonatal Period (0–2 Weeks)

During the neonatal stage, puppies are entirely dependent on their mother. Their eyes and ears are closed, and they spend most of their time sleeping and nursing. At this age, there’s very little environmental interaction or learning beyond the comfort and safety of their litter[1].

Transitional Period (+- 2–3 Weeks)

In this short but crucial phase, puppies start to develop their senses. Their eyes and ears open, and they begin to explore their immediate surroundings. This is when their motor skills develop, and they become more active. While fear isn’t yet a significant factor at this stage, early positive and gentle handling can set the groundwork for future interactions and socialisation[1].

Socialisation Period (+- 3 -16 Weeks)

The socialisation period is one of the most critical phases in a puppy’s life. During this time, they are highly receptive to forming social bonds and learning about their environment. Positive exposure to various people, animals, sounds, and experiences is extremely important to shaping a well-rounded adult dog. Socialisation during this period has a lasting impact on their behaviour, making it a key time for introducing puppies to the world in a controlled, and positive way[1].

Fear Periods in the Socialisation Stage:

Around the 8–12 week mark, puppies experience their first significant fear period. This is when they become particularly sensitive to new experiences and can easily form fear-based responses. During this window, it’s important to ensure that any exposure to new environments or stimuli is positive and non-threatening. Negative experiences at this stage can lead to long-term fear or aggression issues. This sensitivity is linked to the puppy’s rapidly developing nervous system, which makes them more reactive to stimuli[1].

Juvenile Period (+- 3–6 Months)

The juvenile period which is also known as the ‘terrible teens’ is influenced by increased independence. Puppies become more curious and eager to explore their surroundings. Their motor skills are more refined, and they start to solidify the behaviours and social cues they’ve been learning. However, they are still developing emotionally and mentally, so ongoing socialisation and positive reinforcement are incredibly important[2].

At this stage, some puppies may experience a second fear period, usually around the 4–6-month mark. This is typically a shorter phase but can still lead to heightened sensitivity and reactivity, particularly to unfamiliar people, animals, or environments. Like the earlier fear period, it’s important to carefully manage their experiences during this time to prevent the formation of long-term fear-based responses[2].

Adolescence (+- 6–18 Months)

Adolescence can be the most challenging stage for both puppies and their owners. As their bodies and minds continue to develop, many adolescent pup’s become more independent, test boundaries in the sense of figuring out what behaviours work or don’t and may even seem to “forget” cue’s you may have taught them. It’s so important to remember and understand that the environment plays a HUGE part in their behaviour.

During this period, various areas of the brain mature at different rates. This phase is associated with increased levels of stress hormones, such as cortisol, which can influence a dog's emotional responses and sensitivity to stimuli. The amygdala, a region in the brain linked to processing emotions, becomes more reactive, contributing to heightened fear responses. Additionally, changes in neurotransmitter levels, particularly serotonin, impact mood regulation and influence how the dog perceives and copes with stressors. These neurochemical fluctuations shape the dog's behaviour and emotional responses during this critical developmental period [4].

The two last fear stages are around 6–13 months, and around 14-18 months, where adolescent pups might suddenly become cautious or reactive towards things they were previously comfortable with. This stage can coincide with hormonal changes, and careful environmental management is needed to set the dog up for success, not put them in a position where they may ‘fail’, and to reinforce positive experiences as well as avoid letting fearful responses become habitual. It’s a good time to revisit training, focus on building confidence, and continue appropriate exposure and socialisation.

🧠The Role of Fear Periods in the Fight-or-Flight Response

This is the most important thing to understand when it comes to fear periods!!!! Instincts are involuntary, and are a natural part of puppy development! Think of it as natures design (primitive brain wiring) to help them become more aware of potential threats to defend and protect themselves. These periods are characterised by the fight-or-flight response, which is triggered by specific chemicals, mainly adrenaline l, cortisol, and fluctuations of serotonin [3].

Adrenaline is responsible for the immediate fight-or-flight response, making animals more reactive and alert to perceived threats. Whether they choose to flee or defend themselves depends on their temperament, past experiences, and how they are managed during these fear periods.

Cortisol, the stress hormone, plays a key role in managing longer-term stress. Repeated exposure to stressful situations without proper appropriate management can result in chronic anxiety and reactivity in the dog[4].

Serotonin fluctuations impact puppy fear periods (8-12 weeks and around 6-14 months).
Low serotonin increases anxiety, which can make puppies more reactive. Low dopamine reduces exploration, while low GABA heightens overreactions. [5]

💪How to Support Your Puppy Through Fear Periods??

Fear periods can be daunting for both puppies and their caregivers, but with the right support with a force-free positive reinforcement trainer, puppies can navigate these stages and become more confident and resilient with emotional maturity and time.

You can also support your pup with a high-quality diet, consistent environmental management, and gentle exposure, to help form positive associations and calmer responses.

To end off my very long post here are a few tips to help manage fear periods…

Reward behaviours you like when you see your puppy doing them. This includes calm behaviour and DO NOT punish fearful responses, which could make the situation worse. Puppies do not misbehave the way humans interpret it! Their behaviours are usually natural responses to their environment, and what we might label as “misbehaviour” is often just a result of unmet needs, confusion, or stress.

Introduce new experiences gradually, make sure that your puppy doesn’t become overwhelmed. Make new interactions positive and manageable.

Remember that fear periods are temporary. Remain calm, and don’t force your puppy into situations they find intimidating.

I hope this helps you understand fear periods and your puppy or adult dog better. Please reach out to your nearest force-free, science-based trainer in your area if you need help.💜

[1] Scott, J.P. and Fuller, J.L. (1965) Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

[2] Serpell, J. (2017) ‘The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behavior, and Interactions with People’, in Serpell, J. (ed.) The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behavior and Interactions with People. 2nd edn. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 21-47.

[3] Overall, K.L. (2013) Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. St. Louis: Elsevier Health Sciences.

[4] Freedman, D.G., King, J.A. and Elliot, O. (1961) ‘Critical Period in the Social Development of Dogs’, Science, 133(3457), pp. 1016-1017.

[5] Reisner, I. R., Mann, J. J., Stanley, M., Huang, Y. Y., and Houpt, K. A. 1996. Cerebrospinal fluid monoamine metabolites in aggressive and non-aggressive dogs. Brain Research, 714, pages 57-64.

07/04/2025

Can a dog consent❓
Can that dog change their mind? Absolutely, but do we recognise when that has happened?
Play is one of those areas that can be really misread by us (and badly misread).
➡️They can show they need a break
➡️They can show disinterest (and strongly)
➡️These signals can be subtle or "slap in the face" obvious
One thing for sure, we need to look harder at play and what constitutes good play.
It is full of nuances and subtilities as well as individual "quirks".

This dog training graphic (and over 130 more!) is available through
https://www.abcdogsnz.com/product-page/hang-on-i-need-a-break?srsltid=AfmBOorInXhZoYEyi40FC05D9ZEI_oU_eQYBMltsm7GNRwqcFE_BTgDZ

05/04/2025

This week there was a post from a well-known dog influencer claiming that "dogs don't need enrichment" and that we should focus on their "real needs" instead.

I'm not sure if this statement was made simply to create controversy and get a rise out of people, or if it reflects a genuine belief. Either way, it fundamentally misrepresents what enrichment is and why committed dog owners invest time and effort into it.

Let's get something clear: Enrichment IS meeting our dogs' real needs. It's not some frivolous extra - it's acknowledging the reality of who our dogs actually are.

At the end of the day, our dogs are animals living in captivity. Yes, they're domesticated, but we still ask them to live in ways that are profoundly unnatural to them.

Think about it:

❌ It's not normal for dogs to stay inside houses 22+ hours a day
❌ It's not normal for dogs to walk slowly on leash without pulling, sniffing, or interacting with their environment
❌ It's not normal for dogs to ignore other animals they see
❌ It's not normal for dogs to not forage, counter-surf, or dig up your garden

Our dogs actually make very big efforts to fit into our human world with all its arbitrary and weird rules. The least we can do in return is fulfill their natural needs as much as possible.

That's what enrichment really is: providing opportunities for species-specific behaviors like sniffing, chewing, licking, digging, shredding, and foraging.

In all my years working with clients, I've NEVER encountered a dog owner who spent "too much time" on enrichment. In fact, I've found the opposite - the more intentional enrichment a dog receives, the happier they are, the easier training becomes, and the better the relationship gets.

Why?
Because enrichment acknowledges dogs for who they are. We humans don't have innate needs to sniff, dig, shred things, or forage - but our dogs absolutely do.

When we don't provide appropriate outlets for normal canine needs, our dogs find their own solutions - which we often label as "bad" behavior.
The dog who shreds your couch cushions, digs up your flowerbeds, chews your baseboards, raids your garbage, destroys toys within minutes, or counter-surfs is actually just acting according to their natural needs. Enrichment helps bridge that gap by providing appropriate alternatives.

With my own dogs, I ensure they have several types of enrichment every day - chewing opportunities, licking activities, daily sniffing adventures, appropriate digging spots, and chances for shredding and de-stuffing.

To be clear, enrichment doesn't replace exercise, training, or social interaction. It's ONE important piece of a fulfilled dog's life.

The next time someone suggests that enrichment is unnecessary or superfluous, remember: It's not about mindlessly throwing toys at our dogs or creating Instagram-worthy snuffle mats.
It's about honoring their true nature within the constraints of our human world.

It's not a way to DISCOUNT what they need. It's a way to ACKNOWLEDGE who they truly are.

(BY the way: I am writing this as my own dogs are all eating their breakfast in the form of frozen slow feeders 😄)

Happy Enrichment!