The Alberta Bulldog Advocacy Project

06/16/2022

08/30/2021

An interesting older article on food ingredients, dissecting common labels and definitions.

https://www.thethinkingdog.com/housto-dog-training-blog/2016/8/18/dog-food-ingredients-a-must-know-for-owners #

NEL ON RECALLED, RECYCLED, COUNTERFEIT DOG FOOD Nel Liquorman , Health & Nutrition Editor April 10, 2011 | TheDogPress Check the net’s most carefully researched and detailed list (below) of added ingredients by using QUICK-FIND (Depress your Ctrl key and the letter F, in the box, type

08/22/2021

"Cherry eye" is the nickname for a medical condition known as a pr*****ed nictitating membrane, pr*****ed third eyelid, or third eyelid gland prolapse. All dog breeds have a third eyelid or “nictitating membrane”, stationed in the lower eyelid, its purpose is to offer additional protection for a dog’s eyes. The accompanying tear gland supplies a significant amount of moisture to the eye. The third eyelid, or nictitating membrane, is this fleshy, pink part next to the eye in the eye socket. This membrane is actually a flap of tissue that contains a gland that secretes tears and is usually not easily seen. It should be flat and against the corner of the eye socket but in a dog with cherry eye, it gets enlarged, flips over, and protrudes or prolapses making it abnormally visible. If it becomes pr*****ed, it protrudes out of the bottom or corner of the dog’s eye. The swollen area appears red and inflamed. It occurs after a tear gland in a dog’s third eyelid becomes inflamed. While it is usually not extremely painful, sometimes a dog will rub at it as if it were itchy. Cherry eye in dogs is easy to spot and can be treated quickly.

Causes of cherry eye are primarily genetic, based on breed predisposition and anatomy, but it can happen in any breed due to injury or stress on the membrane of the eye. It is generally seen in young bulldogs occurring roughly 10-12 weeks and is uncommon after the age of two unless there is an injury to the eye or irritation in which the dog rubs its eye and agitates the membrane.

It’s important to note that dogs who suffered from cherry eye once, are more susceptible to another occurrence. This includes a propensity to experience the condition in the other eye. A major concern is that extended or recurring cases of cherry eye can lead to long-term eye problems, such as tear film problems and conjunctivitis. Left untreated, and the longer the gland is pr*****ed, the greater the risk of associated problems such as conjunctivitis, ulcers and entropia. A dog pawing, scratching, or rubbing the affected eye may irritate it further.

In most cases, the gland returns to normal function within a few weeks of surgery. Approximately five to twenty percent of cases may experience a re-prolapse of the third eyelid gland and require additional surgery. Many pets that have a prolapse in one eye will eventually experience a prolapse in the opposite eye, but this is not always the case. In general a dog with only one pr*****ed eye is a result of injury or traume, whereas two pr*****ed eyes have a stronger genetic disposition. Surgical stitching of the third eyelid gland back in place is always the first choice of treatment due to the risk of developing "dry eye" if the gland is surgically removed.It is extremely important to note that there are many methods of this stitching or tacking, and some vets may not be experienced with this particular procedure which can result in additional and extended eye issues and complications. Removal of the gland should always be the last resort, but in severe or chronic cases, there may be no option other than removal of the gland, especially if the function is severely diminished or absent.

At the end of the day, cherry eye is ugly t look at, but minimally effects the dogs quality of life and is a generally easy fix.

07/23/2021

Breed Highlight: Bantam Bulldogge

The origin of the Bantam bulldogge goes back to the 1800’s, and there is evidence of miniature bulldogs in 1899. Bantam bulldogges resulted from breeding smaller English bulldogs together to create a miniature version; subsequently the French breed and Boston terriers came from the bantam bulldogge breed. By 1902, the smaller bulldog breed was practically extinct, and so French Bulldogs were imported back to England to help restore the Bantam bulldogge breed. Although bantam bulldogge origins trace back to the 1800s, the dog is not widely recognized as an official breed. It was only as recently as 2002 that the United Canine Association recognized the English bantam bulldog, now officially the bantam bulldogge, and began recording registrations.

The bantam bulldogge is essentially an English Bulldog, yet as the name implies “Bantam” defines the bred as being miniature in comparison. They are related to English and French bulldogs, so the standards for the breed are similar to both types. The perfect description of a Bantam bulldogge is short, stout, and compact. The physical standards for the bantam bulldogge are similar to the English bulldog other than their size. The weights of the two breeds are very different but their heights can overlap.

General Description : The Bantam Bulldogge is what many “Toy Bulldogs” phenotypically looked like in the early 1800’s when the Bulldog that had been used in previous centuries for bull and bear baiting had been bred down in size to a small bulldog weighing between 20lbs – 40lbs.

The perfect Bantam Bulldogge should be of short to medium height with a square-looking head and a strong, muscular body. The disposition of the Bantam Bulldogge should be friendly, brave, and loyal. The Bantam Bulldogge’s temperament is to be steady and dependable.

As a rule male Bantam Bulldogges should be free breeders and female Bantam Bulldogges should free whelp. The Bantam Bulldogge should not have the same breathing or activity limitations of some modern bull breeds.
Their lifespan is between 10 and 14 years.

Head : Large and square compared to the body with a nice, furrow (rope) over the nose. Fault: Head too small in proportion to the body.

Ears : Short set high, natural or cropped. If natural, semi-prick or rose are preferred. Prick or flat, wide ears are non preferred. Upright ears are allowed if natural but are non preferred.

Muzzle : Broad, deep and short with moderate wrinkling. The bite is undershot with the bottom jaw turning up noticeably. Lower canines should not protrude. Muzzle too long (more than 3 inches), scissor bite or even bite are disqualifying faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 1 ½”. Fault: Muzzle too long, scissor or even bite. Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.

Eyes : Wide apart and of moderate size. Any color is acceptable, however, odd eyes (one dark, one blue or light) should be considered non preferred. Lacking pigment around the eyes is undesirable. Fault: Misshapen or bugged eyes are a serious fault. Crossed eyes or non-symmetrically shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.

Nose : Wide and broad. The nose should have nice open nostrils. Nose all colors acceptable. The nose should be a solid color. Lacking pigment should be considered non preferred. Fault: Completely pink nose (a small amount is acceptable).

Neck : Short in length and very muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not be set on the dog so it appears to stop at the shoulders. Fault: Long or weedy appearing neck.

Chest : Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and the chest wide and deep. Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows. Fault: A hollow or narrow chest (slab sided) should be considered a serious fault.

Back : Males should appear square and balanced. Females should appear similar with consideration given for body length. Short with a very slight rise from the shoulders to the rump is preferred. A level back is acceptable as long as the tail does not come straight off the top of the back. Fault: Excessive sway-back.

Shoulders : Shoulders should be well laid back with significant angulations to allow for good movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.

Legs : Forelegs should be straight and wide apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There should be significant bone substance. Elbows should be relatively close to the body. Lacking bone and substance is very undesirable. Fault: Bowed or turned out resulting in poor movement. Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle so to allow for good movement. They should be well muscled. Fault: Straight or “posty” rear legs are a serious fault. Cow hocks are a disqualifying fault.

Feet : Round, tight both front and rear coming from strong pasterns. Fault: Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet.

Height : Males: 10 – 16 inches at the shoulder. Females: 9 -15 inches at the shoulder.

Weight : Between 18 – 39 pounds. Weight over 40 lbs up to 45 lbs allowed in breeding stock or pets, but will be penalized in the show ring.

Color : Any color is acceptable with no preference for one over another.

Coat : The coat should be short, glossy and stiff to the touch.

Tail : Should be natural, with a short screw or straight tail being preferred.

Temperament : Disposition should be outgoing and happy. While a watchful nature may be expected at home, human aggression without provocation is a disqualifying fault.

Bantam bulldogges are described as healthy, outgoing, and active. They are still susceptible to BOAS like their English counterparts, and like all bully breeds, allergies are always a possibility. This being said with the right education, awareness and care they will live a healthy and long life. This has made their popularity increase over the last few years. A typical bantam bulldogge will enjoy his family and clowning around, and he will love to be the centre of attention (like all bulldogs)! They are happy little dogs, usually jovial in nature and easy going. Some can be protective of their families but they are very rarely aggressive. They are to be brave, loyal, and dependable.

The Bantam Bulldogge is still uncommon in the dog world, yet with their health benefits, lovely personalities, and size-they are becoming more and more accepted, especially for those confined to smaller living quarters and physical capabilities.

06/28/2021

Why are prenatal vitamins important for pregnant dogs?

Pregnant dogs, just like humans, need minerals and nutrients during pregnancy and lactation. Prenatal vitamins for dogs provide gestating puppies with the essentials needed for healthy growth and development.

Developing puppies need vitamins and minerals for brain organ and eye development, red blood cell, muscle and bone growth. And all of those vitamins must come from mom's body! During pregnancy, mom's metabolism and red blood cells increase 25 percent to help the babies grow. A pregnant dog will deplete the vitamins and minerals in her body in order to maintain the litter. This means pulling nutrients out of her own tissues, bones, and teeth. Prenatal vitamins, keep that deficiency in mom to a minimum. And if mom doesn't have enough nutrients to give, the babies are born anemic and weak and may struggle with nursing. Prenatal vitamins are the ideal way for moms and their developing babies to get that extra boost.

Bulldogs are at a higher risk to have cleft palate, spina bifida and Water puppy syndrome (walrus puppies / Anasarca). One of the easiest and most efficient way to prevent or correct this is through providing adequate folic acid and prenatal support. Folic acid is KEY to reducing you chances of cleft palate pups in a litter as well as spinal deformities and Anasarca.

So let’s jump right in. What is a cleft palate?

Cleft palate is a relatively common condition that results from the failure of the roof of the mouth (hard and soft palates) to close during normal embryological development, thereby leaving a “cleft” in the roof of the mouth.

The result is a puppy or kitten whose oral cavity communicates with their nasal passages. This leads to problems eating, swallowing, and receiving enough nutrition, but has respiratory implications as well.

A cleft palate typically looks like what it sounds like: a hole in the roof of the mouth. That hole may be larger or smaller and it may vary in location (closer to the front or back of the mouth), but most are readily identifiable at birth. Some cleft palate defects may extend so far forward as to affect the lip as well (hair lip cleft).

If the presence of a cleft palate isn’t identified by visual inspection of the pups’ individual oral cavities immediately after birth, the most typical sign that one or more pups in the litter may have a cleft palate involves difficulty suckling and swallowing.

Coughing, gagging, and milk bubbling from pups’ noses is typical of cleft palate defects, as is sneezing and snorting. Other signs (usually in less obvious defects) may include failure of a pup to grow normally, a sudden onset of pneumonia (typically from aspiration), or sudden death.

In one study, bulldog breeds appeared to be thirty percent more likely to suffer from cleft lips and cleft palates than other breeds. Another found that bulldog breeds were at “exceptional risk” for cleft palates while German shepherds and mixed breeds were at lowest risk.

Sadly, many cleft palate pups are euthanized immediately after their defects are detected. If handled with sufficient care and diligence, however, many of these puppies will survive.

If elected, treatment of cleft palate depends largely on the size and location of the defect, and the degree to which the affected puppy is currently affected (some pups may already suffer from pneumonia or malnutrition).

Bottle or tube feeding small quantities of milk every two hours is a typical recommendation for neonates. Older pups may be transitioned to solid foods as early as four weeks of age.

Assuming no serious complications ensue and pups are healthy enough, surgical correction may be advisable after four weeks of age. Each patient’s individual health concerns and palatal defect details will inform the ideal timing of surgery and the technique elected. Several surgical procedures may be necessary as these pups grow and their palates expand.

For this reason, as well as for reasons related to anesthetic risk, surgery is considered a last resort best undertaken later in puppyhood, when the palate is closer to its adult size.

Note: Cleft palate surgeries have historically suffered a low success rate. When performed by a board-certified surgeon or board-certified veterinary dentist, however, puppies tend to enjoy a far higher rate of success.

It’s important to note, however, that even after successful surgical correction, long-term complications as a result of the cleft palate defect are possible, even likely. These dogs are at higher risk of upper respiratory infections. Some will suffer a chronic nasal discharge that may or may not be definitively treatable.

What is Spina bifida?

The vertebrae of the spinal column typically surround and protect the spinal cord. In spina bifida, something goes wrong with the fusion of vertebral arches when embryonic development is occurring, causing the vertebrae to be incomplete. While spina bifida is most often seen in the lower back, it can take place anywhere in your dog’s spinal column. The breeds most commonly impacted by spina bifida are English Bulldogs and French Bulldogs; however’ the disease can occur in a variety of dog breeds.
Spina bifida is a rare congenital abnormality in the vertebrae of the spinal column. The defect may be minor or significant depending on how many of the dog’s vertebrae are impacted.

Symptoms in dogs with spina bifida range from no visible signs to significant issues. Should the defect be minor, the anomaly may never be noticed unless there is an x-ray done on your dog. In more severe cases where the spinal cord is affected, you may see the following signs:
Weakness
Lack of coordination
Paralysis
Inability to control f***l and urine elimination
Skin may be dimpled at the location where the defect is present

When there is a significant defect, the spinal cord may be exposed and the defect noticed at birth. If the spinal cord is not exposed, in severe cases the fact that there is a problem is typically clear as your puppy begins to walk.

There are a range of possible abnormalities that can occur with spina bifida. In a case where there is only nonfusion of a small part of one or several vertebrae, your dog will have no medical problems. On the opposite end of the continuum, a majority of the vertebral arch could be missing on several vertebrae along with the spinal cord and/or its lining protruding. In the more severe cases, issues will occur as a result of the part of the spinal cord that is impacted.

There are three sub classifications of spina bifida: spina bifida manifesta, cystica and aperta. These point to there being a protrusion of the spinal cord membranes (meningocele cyst), a protrusion of the spinal cord itself (myelocele), or a protrusion of the spinal cord and its membranes (meningomyelocele).

Spina bifida is a congenital condition. If during fetal development the vertebrae don’t completely grow around the spinal cord, a part of the spinal cord is exposed, known as spina bifida. While it was thought that spina bifida was an inherited condition, environmental factors play a role in the occurrence of spina bifida, for example, there being nutritional deficiencies during the pregnancy, maternal stress, as well as exposure to toxins.

Lets talk about Walrus Puppies:

Water Puppies or Walrus Puppies are suffering from Water Puppy Syndrome, medically known as” Anasarca”. This is a potentially fatal condition that is commonly found in short-nosed dog breeds such as Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Boston Terrier, Pugs, and more but it has also been seen in other dog breeds such a Labrador Retrievers and Yorkshire Terriers.
Water Puppy Syndrome can affect only one or two puppies, or even the entire litter.
These puppies are born suffering from Edema –an abnormal accumulation of serous fluid in different organs, cavities or body tissues. Water puppies can be 2 to 4 times larger than normal pups in the litter. Water puppies can become so big they can block their mother’s canal – prohibiting her from giving birth naturally.

Most of the time, Water Puppies are born through C-section. Sadly, most of them immediately pass away or are stillborn. Water Puppies who are born alive may be categorized as mild, medium or severely affected.

Puppies born with Water Puppy Syndrome are also found to be suffering from a combination of vertebral column defects and other abnormalities like cleft palates all syndromes directly related to folic acid deficiencies in pregnant dogs.

So what is Folic Acid and what does it do?

Folate (Folic Acid) is the natural form of vitamin B9, water-soluble and naturally found in many foods. It is also added to foods and sold as a supplement in the form of folic acid; this form is actually better absorbed than that from food sources—85% vs. 50%, respectively. Folate helps to form DNA and RNA and is involved in protein metabolism. It plays a key role in breaking down homocysteine, an amino acid that can exert harmful effects in the body if it is present in high amounts. Folate is also needed to produce healthy red blood cells and is critical during periods of rapid growth, such as during pregnancy and fetal development.

When babies are developing early during pregnancy, folic acid helps form the neural tube. Folic acid is very important because it can help prevent some major birth defects of the baby's brain (anencephaly), spina (spina bifida) and cleft palate. Folic acid is necessary for normal metabolic functions such as DNA synthesis and red blood cell production.

Research on cleft palates in brachycephalic breeds of dogs supports the use of folic acid supplementation in the pregnant bitch as a means of decreasing the incidence of cleft palate by as much as 48 - 76%.

Folic Acid is available at any human pharmacy or grocery store for roughly $6. Because it is water soluble it can be paired with a prenatal vitamin without any complications. Water soluble vitamins and minerals mean your dog will simply absorb what it needs and urinate out the rest.

There really is no reason NOT to give your pregnant dog folic acid. There are many canine branded prenatal vitamins and folic acids, but in reality any brand will do. Look at your local pharmacy or grocery store for available and affordable options in your area.

For best results when breeding, start your female dog on prenatal and folic acid at the beginning of her cycle before she is bred and continue daily until 10 - 14 days post

06/16/2021

Bulldog puppies, and any breed of puppy for that matter, require dedication to training just as much as making sure they are eating appropriate and healthy food. During these times of COVID, with so many new pet owners, knowing the basics to training your pup will help you in the long run. Not only will you have a well-behaved puppy but you are also teaching them to be a kind and proper member of society. Here are our list of tips and training musts for your new bulldog.

1. Socialization: This can be the single most important exercise you MUST do with your puppy. And you have a limited amount of time to work on it, so it’s extremely important to get on it. Once your pup has received their vaccinations, introducing them to different and new environments, people, and other animals is key. By doing this, you are showing your puppy the world he will be living in, and you are creating positive associations with the objects, animals, people and places that he will be around. Take your puppy for car rides, introduce him to nail clippers, take him to a friend’s house or a safe on-leash park, go for a walk, introduce him to a friendly cat, you can even take him for a visit to the local vet or pet store. All these things will teach him there is nothing to fear, and will allow him to develop appropriate skills to cope in these different environments. Every single positive interaction with any of these things can be followed with a treat, or simply positive reinforcement. Sometimes the best way to develop keys to successful behaviours is as simple as excitedly rewarding every good thing your dog does and giving a stern, quick correction for unwanted behaviours. Positive reinforcement can look like pets, hugs, kisses, vocal praise or joyful, excited energy.

*NOTE: FINDING A SMALL, DELICIOUS, LOW-CALORIE TRAINING TREAT FOR YOUR PUPPY WILL BE A BENEFICIAL ASSET TO THEIR SUCCESS, BUT DUE TO THE NATURE OF THE BREED SHOULD BE BALANCED WITH POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT TACTICS. POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT AND GIVING A TREAT AFTER YOUR PUPPY COMPLETES A TASK WILL ENCOURAGE THEM TO DO IT AGAIN AND AGAIN!

2. Potty Training: Hold on to your pants-because one thing that you will learn about your bulldog is they can be stubborn! Stubbornness can be a sign of high intelligence, so when you’re ready to scream just remember how smart your little guy really is. Puppies can pick up simple tasks easily, but potty training requires patience and perseverance. In my experience, a timely schedule is the best way to keep your puppy on the right path with going outside and, plus one hour not having accidents. A puppy can hold their bladder for around 1 hour for every month of life. So your new puppy could technically hold their bladder around an hour or two, but don’t push it. The routine is key. Whenever a puppy wakes up from a nap or in the morning the very first thing they should do is go outside to the bathroom. When they p*e or p**p outside, meet the achievement with a lot of praise. After a puppy eats or drinks, take them outside again, and always encourage them to learn the work “go p*e,” “do your business,” etc. Again, high praise and reward when they complete the task where they are supposed to. You may feel that you are the one being trained, but believe me, the more you take them out, the less chance they have accidents and learn that bad habit. If a puppy is playing and has a moment of rest or a lull, that’s right, p*e time!

If your puppy has an accident, clean it up and move on. Puppies don’t understand punishment like rubbing their nose in it, and they will only end up fearing you, rather than learning the lesson. Have a great cleaner on hand, and move forward, and try to keep note of why it happened. You will often see your puppy give cues that they need the bathroom, the main one being sniffing around or stopping what they were just doing and wandering off. That’s your cue to get outside!

A great cheat for puppy training is a dog door. It is not uncommon for bulldogs to accidents in the house for up to 8 months of age. If this is your puppy, don’t be too stressed about it, it will resolve with the appropriate encouragement and correction. Dog doors are a fabulous shortcut because your puppy can let themselves out when they have to go to the bathroom and not depend on you to always be on the watch.
Peeing in their beds can also be a troublesome reality for some bulldog companions. The trick to this is to keep a clean bed always, meaning keep changing their bedding regularly and consider a hammock style bed with a baby blanket, rather than a soft pillow bed until they can control their bladders.

Frequent small, dark, coin sized p*e’s are a sign of a UTI (bladder infection) common in young female dogs. A trip to the vet is essential to help care for this.

3. Biting/Chewing/Taking Away Toys: Puppies are very curious, and just like human children they explore their world with their mouth! This means that they will 100% nibble and bite your hands, chew the couch, chew shoes, table legs, plants, shrubs, the deck! There is no limit to what they can find to mess with. This can be frustrating, but how you handle these moments can shape your puppy’s future.

You want to train your puppy that mouthing and gentle play is acceptable, and to only chew his own toys. Teething is another cause for chewing, and finding hard chew toys, large carrots, bones that are safe for your puppy will save you in the long run. Contrary to popular belief, raw bones and other chews are acceptable for your puppy, as long as they are constantly monitored and the bone is big enough. Not only does this provide fantastic nutrients and vitamins for your puppy, but it cleans their teeth and keeps them mentally stimulated. Chewing a bone can be like taking your puppy for a walk, so as long as you are keeping an eye on them, letting them chew is great for them mentally and physically.

Always remember a bored bulldog is a bad bulldog. Keep them stimulated mentally and exercise them within the appropriate perimeters of the breed to keep them tired. A tired bulldog will sleep more peacefully and get into less trouble.

When your puppy is chewing something that isn’t allowed, it’s important to give them a firm No! so they know this is unacceptable and redirect them to one of their toys. Discipline doesn’t mean physically correcting (hitting, slapping,, kicking etc.) and losing your mind, but being firm and direct with your puppy about what is expected is ESSENTIAL to who they will become as adult dogs, just like our own human children. A great training technique is to give your puppy a bone or treat and then take it away. Pause your dog while they’re eating their food, and remove their bowl for a time before giving it back. Pet your puppy and put your hands along their bowl while they eat. This shows them that they will always get their food, and that you handling their face and bowls and toys is allowed and expected. If a puppy growls when you attempt to take any of these items away, it’s important to give him direction in a firm, direct tone. It cannot be tolerated, and you will have to work extra hard to ensure that he learns you are always allowed to take anything from him. Not doing so could lead to serious injuries in the future and put your bulldog at risk as well.

We encourage all bulldog companions who have multiple dogs to consider feeding each dog in their own kennel. Kennels are a safe place for dogs and it allows them to each in peace without the concern of a more dominant dog in the house stealing their food. Food aggression can be prevented by allowing your dog its space and time to eat their meals. A hungry dog can be a “hangry” dog and many dog fights or accidental nips can occur around food.

*Please note: you should always be able to take away your dogs food without being nipped or growled at. Kennel feeding encourages separation from other dogs or animals that may threaten your dogs personal space.*

4.Crate Training: Crate training is a very important part of your puppy’s training, and not only teaches them to be by themselves but also keeps them safe. Most puppies adapt quite easily to crate training, and it usually becomes one of their favourite places because it’s a safe, quiet spot just for them. All of my bulldogs nap in their crates daily, on their own terms. They love it there, and find comfort in it. I have multiple crates around the house, some with bedding for naps and others with yoga matts or folded towels in them for feeding. Crate training is essential because your puppy is too young to be trusted free in your home. Not only can they do a lot of damage, but they can get into things that can hurt them as well. Chewing cords or certain plants, falling, digging through a wall-all these things can be avoided with an appropriate crate to keep your puppy safe while you’re out or at work. It also can assist in the event of a fire or emergency, as firefighters and emergency responders will always check crates first in the event of an emergency.

Crates should never be misused or used as a form of discipline, although they can be an excellent place for a quiet “time out”. Aggressive discipline followed by crating will only make your puppy fear or hate their crate., but similar to a toddler, and over excited or badly behaved dog an absolutely benefit from an appointed “time out” or nap time. Crates can also be very beneficial for a bulldog that is too hot or too worked up and is having trouble breathing. Putting a cooling matt in a kennel with a fan in front of it forces your bulldog to calm down and avoid a preventable situation that may become life threatening.

You should only leave your puppy crated a few hours at a time, and it shouldn’t be a housing place for constant use. If you have an exercise routine with several dogs, crates can be used to rotate your pups without having too much chaos or too many dogs to monitor outside. When our puppies were young we crated them during our family meal times to teach them respect while we ate at the table. All these options are responsible and appropriate, but it’s important not to use the crate ever in a negative way.

*PLEASE TAKE COLLARS OFF YOUR DOGS WHEN CRATING THEM UNSUPERVISED. Puppies and adult dogs can get their collars caught easily in the bars and choke.*

The best option is to start slowly with your pup. Introduce them to the crate and have a safe crate mat that is comfortable for them. Crate them for a small amount of time, in a common area where they can see you. They may cry, but reassure them and leave them in their crate. After 10 minutes let them out, take them to p*e, and give lots of praise and a treat. Don’t take them out because they cry. If the 10 minutes are up, try to wait untill the puppy is quiet before taking them out. It’s important they are calm when you take them out, and they don’t learn that crying gets them out of there. This process can sometimes take a few days, but it is another one that requires patience and will be well worth it in the long run. A great trick is to play your puppy out, and when they’re nice and tired retire them to their crate for a nap. This makes it a happy experience, one that they will likely sleep through, and they will wake up feeling happy and positive about being on their comfy bed in a safe space. If listening to them cry is hard for you, crate them while you go to the store for groceries or go for a quick outing, when they hear you leave they often stop crying as they become comfortable with the silence of the house.

Puppy training your bulldog can be daunting at times, but it’s so important and what teaches them to be a well rounded, behaved member of your family and society. Next time we will cover some of the commands your puppy will benefit in knowing, but these are the simple basics to begin with, when bringing your little guy home. Good luck! And happy training!