Stanford Dog School

02/09/2024

02/09/2024

🐾Understanding a puppy’s developmental stages is important to providing the right training, support, exposure, and socialisation at each phase. These stages have a profound effect on shaping a pup's long-term behaviour, especially when it comes to handling stress, fear, and new experiences. The key to having a ‘well-rounded’ adult dog is to recognise and understand the fear periods puppies go through, and how these can impact their overall development and emotional well-being.

Neonatal Period (0–2 Weeks)

During the neonatal stage, puppies are entirely dependent on their mother. Their eyes and ears are closed, and they spend most of their time sleeping and nursing. At this age, there’s very little environmental interaction or learning beyond the comfort and safety of their litter[1].

Transitional Period (+- 2–3 Weeks)

In this short but crucial phase, puppies start to develop their senses. Their eyes and ears open, and they begin to explore their immediate surroundings. This is when their motor skills develop, and they become more active. While fear isn’t yet a significant factor at this stage, early positive and gentle handling can set the groundwork for future interactions and socialisation[1].

Socialisation Period (+- 3 -16 Weeks)

The socialisation period is one of the most critical phases in a puppy’s life. During this time, they are highly receptive to forming social bonds and learning about their environment. Positive exposure to various people, animals, sounds, and experiences is extremely important to shaping a well-rounded adult dog. Socialisation during this period has a lasting impact on their behaviour, making it a key time for introducing puppies to the world in a controlled, and positive way[1].

Fear Periods in the Socialisation Stage:

Around the 8–12 week mark, puppies experience their first significant fear period. This is when they become particularly sensitive to new experiences and can easily form fear-based responses. During this window, it’s important to ensure that any exposure to new environments or stimuli is positive and non-threatening. Negative experiences at this stage can lead to long-term fear or aggression issues. This sensitivity is linked to the puppy’s rapidly developing nervous system, which makes them more reactive to stimuli[1].

Juvenile Period (+- 3–6 Months)

The juvenile period which is also known as the ‘terrible teens’ is influenced by increased independence. Puppies become more curious and eager to explore their surroundings. Their motor skills are more refined, and they start to solidify the behaviours and social cues they’ve been learning. However, they are still developing emotionally and mentally, so ongoing socialisation and positive reinforcement are incredibly important[2].

At this stage, some puppies may experience a second fear period, usually around the 4–6-month mark. This is typically a shorter phase but can still lead to heightened sensitivity and reactivity, particularly to unfamiliar people, animals, or environments. Like the earlier fear period, it’s important to carefully manage their experiences during this time to prevent the formation of long-term fear-based responses[2].

Adolescence (+- 6–18 Months)

Adolescence can be the most challenging stage for both puppies and their owners. As their bodies and minds continue to develop, many adolescent pup’s become more independent, test boundaries in the sense of figuring out what behaviours work or don’t and may even seem to “forget” cue’s you may have taught them. It’s so important to remember and understand that the environment plays a HUGE part in their behaviour.

During this period, various areas of the brain mature at different rates. This phase is associated with increased levels of stress hormones, such as cortisol, which can influence a dog's emotional responses and sensitivity to stimuli. The amygdala, a region in the brain linked to processing emotions, becomes more reactive, contributing to heightened fear responses. Additionally, changes in neurotransmitter levels, particularly serotonin, impact mood regulation and influence how the dog perceives and copes with stressors. These neurochemical fluctuations shape the dog's behaviour and emotional responses during this critical developmental period [4].

The two last fear stages are around 6–13 months, and around 14-18 months, where adolescent pups might suddenly become cautious or reactive towards things they were previously comfortable with. This stage can coincide with hormonal changes, and careful environmental management is needed to set the dog up for success, not put them in a position where they may ‘fail’, and to reinforce positive experiences as well as avoid letting fearful responses become habitual. It’s a good time to revisit training, focus on building confidence, and continue appropriate exposure and socialisation.

🧠The Role of Fear Periods in the Fight-or-Flight Response

This is the most important thing to understand when it comes to fear periods!!!! Instincts are involuntary and are a natural part of puppy development, designed to help them become more aware of potential threats to defend and protect themselves. These periods are characterised by the fight-or-flight response, which is triggered by specific chemicals, mainly adrenaline and cortisol [3].

Adrenaline is responsible for the immediate fight-or-flight response, making animals more reactive and alert to perceived threats. Whether they choose to flee or defend themselves depends on their temperament, past experiences, and how they are managed during these fear periods.

Cortisol, the stress hormone, plays a key role in managing longer-term stress. Repeated exposure to stressful situations without proper appropriate management can result in chronic anxiety and reactivity in the dog[4].

💪How to Support Your Puppy Through Fear Periods??

Fear periods can be daunting for both puppies and their owners, but with the right support with a force-free positive reinforcement trainer, puppies can navigate these stages and become more confident and resilient with emotional maturity and time.
To end off my very long post here are a few tips to help manage fear periods…

Reward behaviours you like when you see your puppy doing them. This includes calm behaviour and DO NOT punish fearful responses, which could make the situation worse. Puppies do not misbehave the way humans interpret it! Their behaviours are usually natural responses to their environment, and what we might label as “misbehaviour” is often just a result of unmet needs, confusion, or stress.

Introduce new experiences gradually, ensuring that your puppy doesn’t become overwhelmed. Make new interactions positive and manageable.

Remember that fear periods are temporary. Remain calm, and don’t force your puppy into situations they find intimidating.
I hope this helps you understand fear periods and your puppy or adult dog better. Please reach out to your nearest force-free, science-based trainer in your area if you need help.💜

[1] Scott, J.P. and Fuller, J.L. (1965) Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

[2] Serpell, J. (2017) ‘The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behavior, and Interactions with People’, in Serpell, J. (ed.) The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behavior and Interactions with People. 2nd edn. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 21-47.

[3] Overall, K.L. (2013) Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. St. Louis: Elsevier Health Sciences.

[4] Freedman, D.G., King, J.A. and Elliot, O. (1961) ‘Critical Period in the Social Development of Dogs’, Science, 133(3457), pp. 1016-1017.

02/09/2024

These are really good tips for introducing dogs✅
Number one tip.... TRUST YOUR INTUITION ✅
Especially if you know your dog struggles to meet others⚠️ and if they do struggle, that is ok.
Not every dog is a dog social dog.
One of the biggest mistakes people make is only concentrating on their own dogs emotional state and not watching the rising stress in the other dog involved....
These cause those "Out of the blue" reactions....
They weren't out of the blue, they were just missed.
Micro meetings are essential.
🔵Parallel walks are a must.
🔵Avoid face to face.
🔵Keep your voices light and happy.
🔵DON'T make a dog sit or lie down.
🔵Tension creates more tension so keep those leads loose.
🔵NEUTRAL territory....not your yard, your house or even your immediate area around your house....go somewhere else.
Biggest tip though (as mentioned) watch the body language of both dogs.....IGNORE the tail wags (a wagging tail does not always mean a happy dog) and watch the whole body and all the little tell tale signs given.
If it doesn't feel right...it likely isn't.
Trust your gut.
ALWAYS advocate for your own dog no matter how "friendly" you are told the other dog is.

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28/08/2024

The first time I saw someone do this I was shocked.
I thought it was a one off, clearly it isn't and social media "influencers" have started to spout this as a "solution".
When I first saw this a few years ago, I could see the skin under the belly twisting and stretching while a lead was tightly pulled up from above.
There was bruising and this dog was certainly in pain.
All because someone wanted a quick way to teach a dog to walk beside them.
Companies even sell carabiners that encourage using this method.
What people may not realise is this can kill a dog.
The belly is not well protected...at all.
The intestines are right there and there are no bones in that area to protect those precious and vital organs.
That constant pressure and squeezing can and DOES cause serious abdominal issues.
PLEASE don't be tempted to follow this trend if you have seen it on social media.

27/08/2024

Oh boy this can be tricky❗
Very subtle and easily misread. 💥
Yes, dogs can absolutely consent (or not) to play.
Many people think a sign that their dog doesn't want to meet or play with another dog is a growl (which of course there absolutely can be), however even before that growl there can be lots of other signals given that they do NOT want to meet.
These signs are often more subtle.
Scratching.
Sniffing.
Nibbling away at themselves or a stick on the ground, these can all be signs that they may not be comfortable with what is about to happen.
We need to pay close attention to this as these signals can be our dog saying.
"No thanks".
Unfortunately some of these signals can be subtle and easily misread by us, so we persist in letting dogs meet.
That is when our dogs need to use a much stronger signal such as growling, air snapping or worse.
It is important to note these signals as we need to respect just how our dogs are feeling.
They have every right to consent to meeting or playing, or not.
If these signals are shown, they may just need more time or careful exposure to this potential new friend.
They can certainly warm up to them.
Imagine how many incidents could be stopped if we just took the time to see exactly what they are trying to say to us and the other dog.

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23/08/2024

It is hard...no doubt about it.
Having a new puppy is challenging. Also rewarding 🥳🍾😀.
We have just uploaded a new video to YouTube that covers all the tips and tricks we KNOW work, details in comments.
There will be good days, there will be bad days.
Puppy toileting issues are just as common as feeling the puppy blues and often they go together. It can be incredibly frustrating for everyone, including your puppy.

Hang in there new puppy guardians ! 🙂

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19/08/2024

Reactivity 💥and fixation👀.
Often hand in hand.
While many may be familiar with the hard face, stiff body and possible closed mouth when fixating...there are plenty more signs your dog may be fixating.

Raised hackles/Piloerection.
This can cause a dog to "fluff" up or bristle their tail...it could be in just a few areas or the whole coat. This can certainly happen at many other times too and many of these are not connected to reactivity/fixation.
As with everything in reading your dog...context is everything.
As is the whole picture.

Another sign your dog may be fixating is the lengthening of the whole neck, straining forward while usually not moving the body any closer. Often this is paired with the chest puffing/sticking out and legs anchored well back.
The lengthening and stretching out can accompany a lower or higher neck/head position or just straight out in front.

Peeking is often displayed too.
This is a dogs head moving their head side to side without turning their head.
It can look like they have an invisible tree in front and need to p*ek around it to see the stimuli....but the body usually stays still.

These are only some of the signs of possible fixation.
There are many more and some dogs will certainly not display them all. Some breeds will never have their hackles raised due to their type of coat but may certainly have other signs.

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17/08/2024

Don't wait for the bark.💥
I cannot stress this enough when working with reactive dogs.
Unfortunately too many people only react to their own dogs reactivity when there is a bark.
A bark is just an audible sign of a reaction but there are many other signs given before that bark and when we don't recognise those signs, guess what happens ?
Barking, Lunges, Spins, Jumps and a dog unable to control their own emotions.
There is a LOT that is shown before the bark, even if it is very fast, it is still shown.
So why is it so important to know the unique signals and changes in posture and body language your dog shows ?
So you can STOP the escalation....and yes, even stop the barking from occurring in the first place.
Barking is often at the END of a longer chain of events.
First is usually (not always) a hard stare, a fixation.
THAT is a reaction.
It is not audible but it is often the first sign your dog has changed their emotional state, they ARE reacting.

A change in ear position IS a reaction.
Puling harder on the lead IS a reaction.
A lengthening of the neck/leaning in IS a reaction.
A wrinkled face IS a reaction.......use that information!

Remember a reaction is a change in their emotional state.....and those non verbal signs are a reaction.

A bark is just a reaction we recognise more.

Imagine how we can help our dogs with their reactivity if we started to recognise all those other changes and escalations in their emotional states as easily as we recognise a bark.....

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16/08/2024

DON’T TOUCH MY STUFF!
Resource guarding – also called possessive aggression

We all guard our resources, it’s a natural reaction to a threat of something we value being taken away.

It’s essential for survival and dogs or other animals would not survive in the wild if they didn’t guard their resources.

We also don’t get to decide what’s valuable and what’s not – different things have different value to different dogs and at different times.

Food is usually the most common, but toys, furniture, different items, places, or even a certain person are all things that may be seen as a valuable resource.

A dog turning their head away, freezing, a hard stare, whale eye, moving away, growling or snapping may quickly escalate into a serious bite in an attempt to protect that valuable possession.

Punishing or forcing a dog to give something up is probably one of the worst things to do.

Resource guarding is rooted in the emotion of fear – the fear of that resource being taken away.

Punishment and force further increase that fear, which only increases and reinforces the need to protect that resource.

When a dog is guarding food or an object, we can change the negative emotion of that fear into a positive one by swopping or trading something that has a similar or higher value than what the dog has.

This is one of the most effective ways to address resource guarding of objects as it works at the root cause of the behaviour by changing the emotional response.

A dog resource guarding a person is more complicated to address. A full history of the individual dog, family dynamics, attachment styles, situation and environment all have to be assessed before planning and working on a solution.

Resource guarding can usually be prevented, managed and addressed and by starting early, understanding why dogs feel the need to resort to this behaviour and doing what we can to prevent it from happening in the first place.

15/08/2024

Yes you can poison your recall☠️ and it is very common
Recall (having your dog come to you when called) is one of those cues in training that depends heavily on your relationship together. 🤝🙂
However, there are other things we can inadvertently do which damage a good recall and we often don't even realise we do this.
One of the advantages of having an In Home Trainer is we see all those little things that make SUCH a big difference.
Calling your dog to you when you are about to do something unpleasant to them (or they view as could be a negative experience)....even for the best of intentions, can poison recalls.
Calling them to their dreaded bath.
You know they dislike having their nails cut, but they are called to you.....usually ignoring your calls and then finally skulking slowly forward... with their head down low.
Calling them to you when you have the ear drops in your hand.
They will start to make associations with recall and what you actually want them for.
The opposite (calling away from fun and positive experiences) is also true.
Constantly calling your dog away from fun and positive experiences is a recall destroyer.
One of the biggest destroyers of a recall is calling them to you and clipping their lead straight on and leaving the fun area.....have a play with them first, clip on the lead and continue to have fun for a few minutes. This is a little thing that turns that negative association into a really positive one..
So DON"T call them when they may view what you are wanting (or importantly needing to do)....go and get them.
If you need to groom, please take the time and look into cooperative care, it makes SUCH a difference.
Recently I worked with a Pitbull that was in a desperate situation with their claws.
No-one would do them, not their veterinary clinic, no groomer...no-one...even with a muzzle. He is classified by our council as a menacing dog.
It took 2 half hour sessions with some very easy steps that the motivated guardians did a few times a day for a minute or two.......The result.
Nails done....with no muzzle......and NO stress.
A pleasant experience for everyone.
One of the other issues we picked up on was he was called to them for everything , including being called away from positive/fun experiences and for what he may view as negative.....and it certainly affected their recall too. The recall was about 30 %.
So if your recall is more miss than hit....look at when you actually call them too you and why.
If you change little habits you can make some very big differences.

Unmarked graphics are available for $ 1.20 USD or $ 2 NZD each (approx), these are then able to be used off Facebook for client handouts, posters etc. Please visit ABC Dogs Patreon Shop for our collection of graphics.
Everyone is free to share these posts on social media, however off social media use is protected.
Screen shots are a violation of copyright.
Please respect that these graphics take time and effort to make . All graphics belong to ABC Dogs NZ and are under copyright.

09/08/2024

Dogs that pull on a lead can be hard on everyone. Walking a dog with a loose leash is a process but these are some easy ways to help. These loose lead tips c...

30/07/2024

WHAT THE F?

Recognising stress responses in dogs.

Fight or flight are well known reactions to fear or stress, but these other “F” words are also important to understand and be aware of as they may not always be so obvious.

Freeze, Fawn, Fidget or Fool around are also responses to stress or fear and are also commonly seen in people.

Some dogs may have a genetic predisposition to one type of response while some react based on previous experience - what has worked for them before or what hasn’t. Some dogs have different reactions depending on the specific context.

Recognising and taking note of situations or circumstances where these responses are seen is important in understanding how our dogs are feeling.

When we recognise a fear or a stress response, we are able to intervene and advocate for our dogs.

25/07/2024

Displacement behavior in dogs is best recognized as out of place or odd behavior that doesn't seem to fit the context surrounding it.

19/07/2024

Learning how dogs communicate with their tails is an important part of reading a dogs body language. A dogs emotions and how a dog feels can be conveyed thro...

18/07/2024

It's sad to see people being told to invade all areas of their dogs life. Let's assume that like us, they want agency, undisturbed rest and that they have the right to manage their meal without strange human interruptions.

18/07/2024

Too much too soon WILL cause issues.
It is a really common occurrence with newly adopted dogs.

Congratulations on your new dog.
I know you want to take them to the beach, the pet store and your café....however can I ask for a few minutes so I can explain just what your dog has gone through.....and why you need to take the next few weeks SLOW.
Your new dog has had it's whole world turned upside down.
They don't know you.
They don't know if they can trust you.
They don't know if they are with you for an hour or forever.
They may have been in various scary places.
Other houses, rescues, the pound and likely ALL of these in the past few days or weeks.
Your dog has stress hormones surging through their brain, they are STRESSED....they need to decompress, they need STABILITY in their environment and from you.
They need time with you and their new environment.
They need to know that the tree outside may rustle against the house and that's OK.
They need to know that those normal creaky noises in your house are OK and that at 3.45 the neighbours bang their door shut.
They need to know when it rains that tapping sound is OK.
They need to know that when the door opens they won't be moved somewhere else again.
They need to trust that YOU are safe even when you have had a bad day, you will still give them food and that they can close their eyes around you.
You know what your good intentions are with your new dog, your dog however has NO idea what is happening.....only that everything has changed and it is scary.
They do NOT need other new environments yet. Take it SLOW.
Dogs that have just been adopted need TIME. There is no need to rush out the next day and take them to all the places you want to go with them.....They need the opposite.
Let them decompress, let them inspect a new area of your house or yard every day or two. Walk them up and down outside your house for a few days (and only there), let them sniff, and sniff some more. Let them p*e freely.....it may be boring for you, but not for your dog. They need to know what is happening around them and they learn that through their nose, eyes and ears.
They NEED this.
They need to learn to TRUST you.
The long walks can wait, the café will still be there in a few weeks and you can visit the pet shop alone until they are ready.
Your bond together is the MOST important thing to concentrate on right now.
You will never regret taking it slow and it can save your dog and yourself from making the very same mistakes that can lead to people rehoming in the first place.
All the very best with your new dog.

17/07/2024

It's essential that every puppy learns to enjoy being handled, especially on the parts of the body that turn into common bite triggers. Early puppyhood handling and socialization is easy to do and makes a huge difference in a dog's temperament and quality of life, for the rest of their life!

Learn more or download the PDF version: https://dunbar.info/puppy-handling

14/07/2024

Are there bullies in the dog world❓ Absolutely ✅
Is all play good play❓Absolutely not ✅
Running full sp*ed into play and not assessing or waiting for social cues is a big issue with dogs.
It can cause an immediate change in energy. Sometimes the high energy may be matched, sometimes it causes an immediate stillness and stiffening in the other dog.
THAT can become a very big issue.
While the focus is on the dog that has the highest energy, people can often forget about the other dog involved....BOTH dogs need read and not just the dog that has that extreme energy.
Don't forget who that energy is targeted at.
That quietness/stiffness and stillness from the other dog needs noticed...and intervene if necessary.

Play can turn in an instant...so it is important to advocate even when they are playing.
I am all for dogs communicating together and letting each other know what is appropriate and what is not, but unfortunately many dogs do have inappropriate play styles and are unable to read social cues. They have gone from 0 to 10 even before the lead is taken off to let play commence.
Dogs may react badly to pushy play styles or behaviour they may see as inappropriate.
Over excited/hyper dogs often have very little emotional self regulation.
They don't wait for those important social cues and some don't know how to read them when they are given.
They charge in with an immediate intensity that dogs can react very badly to.

Watch for sudden changes.
Read BOTH dogs and not just yours.
Advocate.

Unmarked graphics are available for $ 1.20 USD or $ 2 NZD each (approx), these are then able to be used off Facebook for client handouts, posters etc. Please visit ABC Dogs Patreon Shop for our collections of graphics.
Everyone is free to share these posts on social media, however off social media use is protected.
Screen shots are a violation of copyright.
Please respect that these graphics take time and effort to make . All graphics belong to ABC Dogs NZ and are under copyright.